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Hobgoblin

CC01 - what does it cost?

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I will be that guy who everyone hates, trying to nail down that illusive concept, value. 

I think I want a CC01 (well I would like a bronco and I can't afford traxxas prices and am a sucker for twin star charm) and I know they're new for about 140-170. What is the going rate on used ones? I see a few good condition ones on eBay for 20/30 less than new price. Are junkers a thing with this chassis or am I just being a bit blind. I'd love to pick up a thrashed chassis for sub 50% and coax it back to life, potentially (almost certainly) costing more than just buying a new kit or build but in small monthly increments. 

Part two of my 'value' question is how much aside from the car itself is it going to cost me to have it be as good as it can be. I understand new steering is a must, see lots of aluminium upgrades like arms and knuckles. How much do you think is an acceptable estimate for essential hop ups that make the car more fun and reliable? 

Appreciate any comments.

Cheers!

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The steering kit is mandatory, the yeah racing unit is probably the best on the market right now.

The rear rubbery lower links need to be replaced, the upper links work fine, I found most of the replacement kits the supplied upper links limit movement compared to stock, but the low links and shock mounts a big help.

After that the biggest thing is really a Crawler motor so it doesn't go so fast (I like 45T on 7.4V, some people like to go as far as 80T,) and after that.. Tires Tires Tires, the best tires and wheels will set you back what the kit cost, but my experience is that if you get the right ones its well worth it, it'll allow you not to be left completely behind by the bigger more expensive vehicles.

some of the cheap china crawler tires on ebay are getting better, just keep in mind with CC01, your limited to about 85-90mm tires without mods, or 95-100mm with some cutting. 1.55" wheels offer up more tires of the right size, as most 1.9" wheeled tires are 120mm to suit traxxas/vaterra etc etc. 

What tires you look at will depend entirely on what it is you intend to do, if it's crawling then the softest foams and softest stickyest tires you can find (rc4wd X2SS or X2SSS) , if you want to do some faster stuff, you'll need something with firm sidewalls and stiffer internal foam. 

My suggestion for tires and wheels on a crawler is however much you think you should spend, times that by 4.

 

 

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I have a new built CC01 VW Touareg finished in boxart, tested on carpet only.

Comes with box & build manual. 

Yours for £150 if interested & you can collect as I'm not far from Brighton. 

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Steering is junk out of the box, tires are junk out of the box,  doesn't come with bearings, the rear links are bulky flexible plastic that get hung up on everything and flex like a diving board.  Aside from that...haha.  Seriously by the time your replace and upgrade everything it's still going to be a pretty mediocre crawler/trail truck and you'll have spent the same amount a TRX-4 sport kit costs. You could also get a Axial raw builders kit and put whatever body you want on it for the same price as a CC-01.

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I got a used one for $109 (£85).  (I wasn't looking for CC01, I just cast a wide net, and sometimes unexpected one get caught)

CC01 has a flaw in that the bevel gears in the back are not mating properly.  It's easily remedied by putting 2 copper bushings and a washer to keep them tight.  Some people don't know about this, so you might get one with the bevel gear damaged. 

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Mine was only slightly damaged. It works file just by keeping a tight mesh.  If yours happens to be a goner, there are steel ones for about $7.  

I think of CC01 as a light trail chassis 90% with mild crawling 10%.  With the front diff open (or both open), on-road capable too.  If you want to crawl more, MST CMX or CFX might be a better choice.  I think it uses the same Bronco shell as Tamiya.  MST chassis don't have diffs.  

Black CC01 vs orange CMX.  All diffs seem locked, but no rear suspension extension kit installed on CC01.  

 

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Thank you for the responses! 

I own a SCX10 clone, so that scratches the crawler itch, I'd be after something for light trailing/beach running. Maybe still I'm barking up the wrong tree, lots seem to have them but no-one seems to have that much love. 

Great information @Juggular much appreciated. Good to know about the bevel gears, how the badword did that get into production?!

@Tamiyabigstuff thank you very much for the offer, I will keep that in mind and will definitely be considering that! 

Cheers, H

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I bought a used one from Ebay last year in never ran condition with upgraded steering, battery mount, shocks, etc for around $130 USD.  I was going to put some more work into it and make it a fairly capable trail truck, but to be honest I didnt like it at all.  Not going to get into that as I know a lot of people really like them, just wasn't my thing.  Went ahead and re-sold it on Ebay for around $150 USD.  I'd say you should be able to get a decent used stock CC01 for around $100 USD, maybe a bit less if you find a deal.

I agree with the sentiment of getting something else as Triumph suggested, even the CC02 would be a better choice in my opinion.  Why not try the Redcat Gen8 PACK?  It's cheap at $170 and has portal axles.  

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You folks are missing the design purpose of CC01... it's the SUV of the RC world :P just drive it where you'd drive a Honda CRV or Pajero MTW - 90% highway, 10% up a gravel driveway :) 

It ain't a crawler, it ain't a mud bog truck, it ain't a stadium racer. 

Stock kit works fine, all you need are full bearings (+ extras to stuff into axle as above & at centre driveshaft) 

Alloy steering is nice & worth having if you want tighter steering, like for indoors. Otherwise turning circle is fine for large outside areas; stock kit tyres are well-suited... on Tarmac they slide instead of traction roll. When you change to softer compounds and taller profiles, the traction roll at every corner soon gets stale.

Alloy everything else is more for looks. 

Changing the rear axle trailing link to anything stiffer doesn't really improve much IMHO. The soft floppy links probably help the handling more than hinder. 

Droplink extenders for the rear shocks... meh I hate them. 

 

Pricewise they're fair value. They don't normally resell for cheap afaik as I doubt anyone can tell difference between a well-used vs recently built CC01. They're hard wearing, pretty basic design and drivetrain is overengineered for softroading. Built/used examples usually priced similar to a new kit but they usually come with electronics etc. 

Mine do duty as noobie trainers, they get taken to onroad track & trashed by 3-13yos with zero RC experience. Perfect SUV purpose... cruising around on pavement by clueless drivers, punctuated by running into (& over) kerbs & corner dots - where a proper touring car would be beached & need frequent rescuing. 

 

They're good fun but it's a generalist - if you want a serious specialised RC you'll be better off starting elsewhere. 

Hmm... saw somewhere somebody trying to use CC01 for drift car :) I gotta try it one day, haven't gone that route yet. 

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I'm here to offer some CC01 love and agree with @WillyChang that you have to understand what the CC01 is for.  If you want something to accompany you on your walks through the woods, they're great.  They don't really climb or crawl without a lot of mods but they soak up the trails very well.  WillyChang also makes a great point about using them where regular touring cars wouldn't do so well.  I never really thought about that but I guess lots of people don't have access to smooth tarmac.  The CC01 could give that road-biased experience without getting stuck on lumps of gravel.

Anyways, I've had a few used CC01s as well as a number of new builds.  If a CC01 has been run in anger with stock steering then there may be play in the tube through the chassis tub.  If you fit the steering hop-up it relies on the tube being of the right size, so you might have to replace the entire tub to fix the steering.  But it depends, I've retrofitted the hop-up to well-used chassis with no problems.

Rear links will be bent if the truck has been used.  Making your own isn't hard, if you buy the axle mounts separately on ebay then you just need some threaded rod and some rod-ends.  For light duties the stock links are fine.

The front brick (do a search if you're not familiar) is a hang-up point off-road.  Resolving that issue requires some manual labour with a hacksaw and a closing plate made from sheet metal.  There's lots of how-tos online but no aftermarket part AFAIK.  There are sump guards that smooth out the angle but they don't add clearance.

My opinion is that no Tamiya collection is complete without at least one CC01.  My advice is to buy one in stock trim and drive it around, see how well it goes in the place you intend to run it, try it in a few other spots, see where it feels sweetest and then modify it to better suit that area.  If you want aftermarket parts there are plenty and it's also a great chassis to do home-brew mods on.  I was doing a series comparing hop-ups with home-brews but had to stop due to lack of time (and also a part being on order for over a year...), I may pick it up again this year if other things settle down.

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I love my cc-01, bought a toyota fj cruiser black special from hobbyking for 100 euro, changed the steering for yeah racing and did some more upgrades.

I use the car for running on the beach but not at slow speed like a crawler, like  most people run them, I run it with a hobbywing 3800kv motor  and with the 20 tooth pinion so it had some speed to it, I widened the the track 18mm per side to make it more stable.

It is a blast to drive with more speed on the beach, when you put the trottle it had some torque twist but I like it.

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Oh yeah that's the other thing... CC01s are geared pretty high, a stock CC01 with usual kit tyres probably keeps up with a stock TT01 :) Lower profile CRV tyres (reused on Freelander) slow it down a tad (change to 20 pinion to equalise) but it handles better on Tarmac too. You can use anything from Touringcar wheels to 2.2" buggy 4WD front wheels too - super versatile!

Dont forget the Low Rider kit available too :P 

 

59 minutes ago, Mad Ax said:

Anyways, I've had a few used CC01s as well as a number of new builds.  If a CC01 has been run in anger with stock steering then there may be play in the tube through the chassis tub.  If you fit the steering hop-up it relies on the tube being of the right size, so you might have to replace the entire tub to fix the steering.  But it depends, I've retrofitted the hop-up to well-used chassis with no problems.

The tube thru the tub is slightly tapered, top is different diameter to bottom. Some of my trucks have been well used with high mileage, but still yet to find a tub that's too wornout to fix. 

The commonest steering hopup is GPM/YeahRacing, they change to 850 ballbearings in nylon flanged bungs. They work well after you've discovered the knack to install them correctly - eg the 5mm tube needs to be properly filed or shimmed to perfect length; the 2 levers that bolt to it need to be glued to the tube so they won't loosen; it's better to change to longer screws than supplied. 

 

CC01 definitely has its own niche... not yet quite sure what/when/why for CC02. 

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Unimog 406 CC01 with 65T motor, 1040 hobbywing, 20kg servo and 110 mm wheels with only the rear differential
 locked and 3.1 Kg. With 5200 mAh 2S lipo battery and more modifications, a small beast.

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