new to the world of 1/10 scale rc

[goth brooks 108]

for my 35th birthday i balled out and got a nib tamiya honda crv kit to build up and paint just like the one i own in real life.

i plan on it being a runner, not a shelf queen, and a few other places ive poked around for info on the innernet say to replace the stock bearings immediately. ive done that, but what else should i replace before i start building the chassis and airbrushing the body. 

im an embroiderer by trade so i already have plans to sew a custom spare tire cover and ditch the hard plastic one. 

i cant wait to dive head first into this. 

[TurnipJF 9192]

Welcome!

In addition to the obligatory bearings, a ballraced steering rack is a very good idea, as is a steel pinion to replace the soft alloy one. A metal motor mount also helps with cooling. And then there are the rear links - JunFac's 4-link kit is probably one of the best out there. 

[goth brooks 108]

oh wow that junfac website looks like it has everything. good looking out. thanks for that tip!

[Otis311 196]

The CC-01 chassis is a classic. There is a ton of info on the web to check out. One thing off the top of my head is to shim the gears in the rear axle. The gears mesh too loosely when built according to the instruction manual.

And I second the recommendation to replace the stock steering setup.

[WillyChang 1814]

CRV is nice, rarest CC01 these days  

Bearings is the only essential hopup. Everything else is just nice2have. 

Think my CRV kit might've come with an MSC, don't use that run an ESC instead.

 

[goth brooks 108]

dot. 

[goth brooks 108]

so im assembling this kit and having a blast but im not quite finished with it yet. how sparingly should one use the little tube of ceramic grease that comes with the kit? use a lot? use a little? maybe this should be moved to another part of the forum, but its my thread and ill do what i like. 

[ThunderDragonCy 7878]

Use a little. A bit inside the diffs, but run the gears dry or very lightly lubed on the outside. You don2need the whole tube. 

[TurnipJF 9192]

I quite like how mine handles the rough stuff with the rear diff locked and the front slowed with AW grease. The ceramic stuff I use sparingly on the gears in the gearbox and rear axle where they are protected from dirt, but the exposed bits such as dogbones and suspension pivots I leave dry.

[goth brooks 108]

just finished. this was an expensive endeavor but it was so much fun. im already eyeing other tamiyas for my next one.

[Juggular 4964]

On 2/11/2020 at 6:45 PM, Otis311 said:

One thing off the top of my head is to shim the gears in the rear axle. The gears mesh too loosely when built according to the instruction manual.

To elaborate on what @Otis311 said, the gear mesh is not supported securely.  So the gears spread apart under load. 

The teeth will meet at the tips only.  You'd end up hearing clicking noises.  When you open it up, you'll find that the teeth are destroyed.  

(below is from a different axle. Unfortunately, this isn't the first time this problem appeared in Tamiya axles.)  

To prevent that, a lot of people just add bushings.  That pushes the diff gear toward the smaller bevel gear.  

Gears don't spread apart, and the problem is averted.