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futureworks

Repairing a FS12-LT Engine (MRE TA01 Nitro Conversion Build Thread)

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Wow, assuming that's the missing piece, what's the chance eh? Did it come with the longer bolts that would be needed, and most importantly will you sell it to me????

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3 minutes ago, futureworks said:

Wow, assuming that's the missing piece, what's the chance eh? Did it come with the longer bolts that would be needed, and most importantly will you sell it to me????

Its the piece from the MCE kit, I never used it. I think it did have longer bolts but M3 replacements should be easy enough to size up. Yes I will sell it. Yours posted for the same amount you sent me previously for the screws etc. 

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Result! Held in place with match sticks at the moment and the muffler works best inverted as shown to create space underneath for the brake/throttle servo to be positioned with it's horn. Sizing it up, looks like I need to find some M3 x 55mm black hex head bolts to secure the muffler, though I'm only finding them in large quantities at the moment - more research needed. Anyway, at least having solved this issue (thanks again @acprc) I can now get on with stripping  down the chassis, checking parts and cleaning everything up. 

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On 3/14/2020 at 3:39 PM, acprc said:

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I made one of these for a Mardave Zakspeed Capri / Thunder Tiger engine project some years back ;)

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So after an absolute age (I think about 8 weeks), I finally received the one-way clutch part (from a seller in HK, v. cheap so worth the wait), so have been able to complete the pull-start assembly on the FS-12LT.

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...and I have all the parts for the other end (bell crank, pilot shaft, bearings etc) but still need to find an original flywheel for this motor (not fussed about the lightweight 53208 one in blue). However I can't find the part number as manuals for the old TG10 cars seem hard to come by, but I know it looks like this... if anyone can help with number and/or the part itself, let me know.  

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8 minutes ago, futureworks said:

...and I have all the parts for the other end (bell crank, pilot shaft, bearings etc) but still need to find an original flywheel for this motor (not fussed about the lightweight 53208 one in blue). However I can't find the part number as manuals for the old TG10 cars seem hard to come by, but I know it looks like this... if anyone can help with number and/or the part itself, let me know.  

 

 

In all the TG-10 manuals the flywheel part number is listed as 53208 (the lightweight one). The part is 3454011 I believe.

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So having now received a few parts I knew I’d be needing (and with other things in life also getting in the way) I’m now starting to dismantle the MRE chassis and TA01 F/F assemblies. The gearboxes etc will be fully dismantled, checked, and ball bearings installed.

One thing I know I’m going to need to deal with in the MRE conversion parts is the tarnishing on the metal such as chassis plate (presume alu given weight), prop shaft, and the threaded screws. Any suggested methods for sorting this using the typical stuff around the house?

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So, things have moved on with this project now that I've gathered everything needed (I think), and with the FS12-LT engine sorted and associated parts found. I've dismantled the TA01 parts from the original new built rolling chassis I purchased (1st pic). I've cleaned everything and rebuilt the front and rear gearbox and related parts, but replacing all the original Tamiya plastic 1150 and brass 850 bearings with ball bearings (one of the reasons for the delay - they took about 10 weeks to get here from China). I then decided to build up the complete  58113 BMW M3 rolling TA01 chassis - looks nice.. 

Next step is to continue the cleaning and dismantling of the MRE (Model Racing Engineering) TA01 Gas Conversion Chassis kit parts - I've managed to get the tarnishing off the prop joint/drive shaft parts so now need to sort out (i.e. dismantle and clean) the chassis plate and everything still attached to it, as well as the various screws and small parts (pics in next post). That's for another time.

 

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MRE Nitro conversion chassis now dismantled and cleaned. Three hours careful work, and it's  all come up a treat! Finally, now everything is ready to actually build this.

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So, over 7 months on, and I've finally managed to get back to this project and make a little progress. The initial challenge has been fitting the steering servo in such a way that it a) allowed for a full enough range for the steering itself, b) ensured the servo allowed enough space for fitting the fuel tank, and c) that it had a servo horn assembly that isn't too 'fat', which would cause it to snag on the red TA01/2 front gearbox housing.

Initially, I tried to make the servo work with it fitted behind the servo stays (which are circular section, one flat face), as that allowed enough room for the standard skit supplied servo assembly from the donor TA01 chassis to fit. However, that was no good as the servo body prevented the fuel tank from being capable of being fitted. 

I then had to make a few guesses as to what would work, and luckily they've all worked out, allied to some improvisation (which is after all what makes this sort of project enjoyable) with some parts from the spares box. I found a 31mm threaded shaft from the original Supershot for the steering linkage, used a High Torque Servo Saver set, and swivelled the servo stays around, fitting the servo from the front instead. To get the steering linkage looking and working right involved using the taller of the two servo horns in the High Torque set, a threaded screw, and a 3mm washer, 3mm nut, and one of the screw-on type ball connectors to get everything aligned nicely. Hey presto, and it works, all fits nicely, and as you can see, just enough room for the servo to operate without snagging the front gearbox housing.

Progress at last! Very pleasing too!

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Update 1 of 2: Managed to do some more on this project today. The front and rear gearbox etc. assemblies from the donor TA01 chassis have been added, as has the refurbed FS12LT engine (the refurb work that started this thread off originally), together with the muffler and the flat section extender needed to create space for the throttle/brake servo, which is positioned underneath this area. That servo has to be fitted orientated as shown, as there's no room under the muffler extender for a servo horn assembly. The steering setup had to be slightly different to the TA01, and you can see I had to use the second hole on the knuckle arms for the ball connectors, plus the tie rod assemblies had to be shortened, so that the correct toe in could be achieved. You can also see that it's necessary to remove the arm-with-chassis-connection-point which sticks out from the TA01 front gearbox part, as otherwise this snags on the steering assembly. Overall though, a very satisfying position to have reached.

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Update 2 of 2: So the next step (for another time) will be to work out how to get the throttle/brake servo operating correctly. It all looks very tight if you look at the positioning of where the servo horn will be, the brake arm, and the throttle lever on the engine. I've got the TGX/TG10 servo horn and brake arm bits from which i might be able to cobble something together, but no guarantee that these will fit the bill even with modification. You'll also note the the engine throttle is positioned on the fuel tank side of the engine, not the throttle/brake servo side. I guess the carb assembly can be rotated 180 degrees, as long as the servo operation enables a push on the TX stick to open the throttle, and pull moves the brake in the appropriate direction. So some working out to do. 

I'll also add a few hop up parts, but not too many as for this build, the MRE Gas Conversion Kit is, and should be, the star here. I will though I think add some alloy wheels from the period, as these will I think look good with the metallic/engineered look of the beast, and the front and rear damper stay/stabilizer sets I found recently, if they fit (made by Cross - info here inc a pic of what these look like fitted: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom_model.asp?cid=136805&id=16836)

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I would rotate the carb . By using the push - pull method with slide thru fittings and springs it should work ok . Some head scratching . I made / fitted a bell crank onto a Mardave Marauder to include a brake , that worked fine . I also set up a push - pull method on my Mardave Capri .

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I have a few carbs that will work with this engine, 1 is a slider the other rotates and another for small part not sure if working. But could all 3 be working. They are off a Carso CH04 and kyosho model.

can post pictures tomorrow

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Sorry I kust have sold the slider carb with my Carson CH04.

I have one in parts some missing, one complete and a old carb for show purpose.

 

any help?

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On 2/2/2021 at 8:33 AM, Fabia130vRS said:

Sorry I kust have sold the slider carb with my Carson CH04.

I have one in parts some missing, one complete and a old carb for show purpose.

 

any help?

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At this stage, not sure, but thanks! What I'm going to experiment with first is swivelling the carb I have 180 degrees, and seeing if I can make that work. If that doesn't work, it'll help me understand what I'll need to do as a plan b. 

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I think that is the way to go . The only thing I can't work out is which way is on / off the throttle and which way is on / off the brake . I'm sure it can be made to work :)

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I had a few mins today, so I've spun the carb 180 degrees, and then taken another pic, which I've annotated to try and show what I think needs working out. Basically, I think the servo horn arrangement will seen to be as shown, so that the brake (B) pulls on in the direction shown, and when the servo is operated in the opposite way, it will open the throttle in the direction shown.(marked P for power). But look at where the servo horn and throttle lever (which is fully closed/off, in the position shown) would be relative to each other - how to connect (yellow line) those two up (side view also, se you can see relative heights), that's the challenge! Any immediate thoughts?

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You can rotate the position of the throttle lever on the carb to find neutral servo push and pull   the brake rod can be made cranked up from the servo horn to the brake horn level , or use a ball fitting underneath the brake horn to attach the brake rod,  and you will need a slide through fiiting and spring to let the brake rod have freeplay / slidethrough when operating throttle with brake off 

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