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Boomerang_didnt_come_back

Dust free base coat done now transfers

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Thanks for all your help on my "Dust and Static" post.  In the end, I found that by washing in detergent, THOROUGHLY drying with an (oil free) air gun at work and spraying paint 2 foot in front of the dust extractor chamber (as opposed to in it with all the other undried pain dust), the dust problems mostly went away.  The rest of my techniques were copied from an excellent blog on another site.

Next step is detailing black window rubber, chrome details (door handles etc.) with a cheap (Spraycraft SP10) airbrush and Tamiya XF paints.

BUT... Once that's done, my next dilemma arrives ---> Adhesive backed Tamiya decals will go accurately in place using soapy water method, so how do I ensure all decals are totally dry topside and underside such that no residual detergent (or water) can react with my clear coat, which is going over all pint and decals?  If it helps, I am using Future Floor (Pledge floor gloss) as a clear coat through the same spray gun outlined above.

Thank you fellow numpties!

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43 minutes ago, Boomerang_didnt_come_back said:

Future Floor (Pledge floor gloss)

Where did you get that. Gold Dust!!!!!!

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Have you used this before. Johnsons Klear used to be the go to clear coat for static modellers but I'm not sure that Future is the same. I presume your models will be shelf queens?

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4 hours ago, Busdriver said:

Have you used this before. Johnsons Klear used to be the go to clear coat for static modellers but I'm not sure that Future is the same. I presume your models will be shelf queens?

Johnson’s own the Pledge brand... I found a YouTube vLog which extols its virtues. Will probably buy a spare “runner” body, which I intend to spray gloss white, then Hydrodip with an obscure stars n’ stripes flag / skin.

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Let us know how you get on with it.? I do static models as well and if it works I’ll get some

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9 hours ago, Busdriver said:

Let us know how you get on with it.? I do static models as well and if it works I’ll get some

Have I missed something here?  Surely static versus RC is an irrelevant comparison, unless you're suggesting all this extra effort with clear coat is irrelevant when the kids crash it into the wall?

The reality is that as a professional engineer, anything which looks less than perfect amongst friends, family and colleagues will receive the obligatory "call yourself an engineer... look at that painted thumbprint!" type comment.

Secret confession - I now own 3000, 5000 and 7000 grit wet and dry, but refuse to buy three ply toilet roll.

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No I was more referring to the fact that it may wash off hence would be more suitable for static modelling. I am all in favour of techniques that improve the look/finish of any type of model. I have spent many hours making an RC model look just so only to scratch it to bits the next day. That’s part of the hobby

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15 minutes ago, Busdriver said:

No I was more referring to the fact that it may wash off hence would be more suitable for static modelling. I am all in favour of techniques that improve the look/finish of any type of model. I have spent many hours making an RC model look just so only to scratch it to bits the next day. That’s part of the hobby

OK Thanks.... yeah will probably get a second body.

Back to the question however.  If I use soapy water method to adjust decals BEFORE clear coat, how do I ensure everything is totally dry and free from residual detergent before applying clear coat?

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Oven at about 45•c is the best I can suggest or a hair drier. Or if you have an airing cupboard for a few days.Certainly needs to be left for a good while to ensure it’s “dry”

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21 hours ago, Busdriver said:

Oven at about 45•c is the best I can suggest or a hair drier. Or if you have an airing cupboard for a few days.Certainly needs to be left for a good while to ensure it’s “dry”

Thank you again.  Currently marvelling at Tamiya 2mm "bendable" masking tape for window surrounds / rear light trim + number plate. Great product!

Wondered about oven~worried about residual grease and fumes.... hairdryer~worried about dust (again!)

Airing cupboard, on lint free (air permeable) cloth, under a plastic container over the weekend sounds like a good compromise.  Quick blow with (oil free) air gun before clear coat to remove dust.

Another concern is the reviews I've now read on using SprayCraft SP10 airbrush with propellant cans.  Apparently, they clog (cold air freeze) if spraying anything more than detailing, i.e. spraying large surfaces with clear coat might cause problems.

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