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Rustoleum spray paints

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So I thought I would cheap out and buy a can of white gloss rustoleum. Actually it was more an issue of distance more than anything. Hobby shop is a half hour away, Home Depot is 10. I know I have seen people using Rustoleum paints in the past, and with success. Well, I found this paint to be extra runny and after almost 36 hours, still tacky. I'm in the process of wet sanding off as much of that coat as possible and going the extra distance for the Tamiya paints.

 

Does anyone have any idea why this might have happened? Do Rustoleum paints just take an extra long time to cure?

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I've sprayed a runner Buggy Champ body in a self priming enamel paint that is very similar to Rustoleum.

The main difference to these DIY types of spray cans to Tamiya ones is the paint flows out a LOT faster and heavier. So trying to achieve a dust coat can be a challenge. 
I had to leave one colour to dry for a week before even thinking about masking it up for the second colour. 
You could try blowing a hair dryer gently over the body to help it bit? Which is what I’ve done in the past when spraying in less than ideal weather conditions. 

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i HATE Rustoleum.  If you have to use a non-hobby spray paint I would recommend Krylon.  I think Rustoleum has gone down hill over the years.  I really like the Krylon paint and primer in one, it drives way faster than than Rustoleum and the spray nozzle atomizes the paint better.   just my experience.

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As your not in England I'm not sure of any brand names in the US but in the UK Halords an Auto parts store has its own range of colours. For hard bodies they are great along with huge range of colours.

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11 hours ago, 78Triumph said:

i HATE Rustoleum.  If you have to use a non-hobby spray paint I would recommend Krylon.  I think Rustoleum has gone down hill over the years.  I really like the Krylon paint and primer in one, it drives way faster than than Rustoleum and the spray nozzle atomizes the paint better.   just my experience.

I agree with this. Average Rustoleum is oil based enamel and enamels without hardeners take forever to dry. Its main purpose was the stop rust which it does with so-so results (nothing like POR-15 etc.) When the whole crap rod thing took off years back here in the States I shot a lot of cars for poor folks with Rustoleum satin black, thinned to spray out of an HVLP gun. I always had to add Japan Dryer or the paint would still be soft after a week. It actually looked descent and held up better than primer but now that its a "thing" paint companies offer specific products for the "suede" look. Out of a can,  Krylon works much better although if sprayed in too high a humidity, it will "blush". 

Oh, yeah, once you shoot something in Rusto. you'll have to strip every last bit of it off if you ever want to go with another product. Rustoleum can usually only be covered over with more Rustoleum.

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Spraying some automotive paint on a recent body shell the paint also comes out faster and heavier than Tamiya cans. 
So I found that swapping the nozzle of the can for a tamiya one helped a lot. Just remember to invert the can and give a squirt to clear the nozzle to clear it as to not clog up with thicker paint.

998F5C0F-2D87-499D-8B5D-40A87A2890A4.jpg
 

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16 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

Spraying some automotive paint on a recent body shell the paint also comes out faster and heavier than Tamiya cans. 
So I found that swapping the nozzle of the can for a tamiya one helped a lot. Just remember to invert the can and give a squirt to clear the nozzle to clear it as to not clog up with thicker paint.

998F5C0F-2D87-499D-8B5D-40A87A2890A4.jpg
 

Switching the nozzles is a brilliant idea!  I never thought to do that!

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Have you tried spraying it with plastidip? When I sponsored a hobby club 5 years ago in the school I work at, we used plastidip to paint the shells we have. It held ok, but will have the tendency to peel off when the wheels rub against the the body... 

Dried quickly after spray and can easily be peeled off if we wanted to change the color... as for rustoleum, you have to spray it lightly so you need multiple coats. 

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This is how my GF01 came out... I used plastidip all around..

 Never really got to finish it as I still have to paint the driver and put some decals... but I might peel it off and redo the paint

20200326_173600.jpg

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This is how my GF01 came out... I used plastidip all around..

 Never really got to finish it as I still have to paint the driver and put some decals... but I might peel it off and redo the paint...

 

Well here it is...peeled it all off... now thinking of a new color scheme... will be using plastidip again 

20200326_181132.jpg

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If you're going to use hardware store paint, the stuff to look for is either Krylon Fusion or Rustoleum Plastic. I have used both with general success. You have to use a lighter touch than with hobby paint cans, spray further away from the work, and be prepared to do some fine sanding/buffing to get the finish right. 

I have even used Fusion on a Lexan body, and it sticks pretty well, as long as you scuff up the inner surface first (after you mask the windows!) and avoid the metallic colors. Dark green worked, white worked, metallic silver did not.

For reference, the Blackfoot was done with Krylon Fusion, 2 coats of white primer and 3 coats of French blue. The Willy is 2 coats of Rusoleum Plastic light tan, 2 coats directly over the olive green plastic. It came out fairly matte, but that's what I was going for. A gloss clearcoat or even some buffing would shine it up. Willy's helmet is the same blue as the 'Foot.

bluefoot.jpg

tanwilly.jpg

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