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Concodroid

Absolute beginner. Need help choosing/verifying parts (Open RC F1)

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Wow! A 3-D-printed F1! This should be interesting...

I haven't ever printed a 1/10 F1, but I have built several different types of conventional ones, so hopefully I can be of some help.

Your motor and speed controller will work, but the motor you have chosen is a bit on the slow side even for a beginner. Brushed F1s typically run 27t motors, brushless ones run 21.5t.

I don't know the dimensions of the battery bay you are working with, but I suspect that a hardcase "shorty" LiPo will be a better fit, as well as being more crash-resistant. 2S is fine, you don't need 3S.

As for the connector, it is best to cut the Tamiya/molex connector off the speed controller and solder a Deans connector straight onto the cables, rather than using an adapter. The adapter acts as a bottleneck, reducing performance and increasing the chances of melting/shorting the battery leads.

Good choice on the radio gear. My wife has the same set and is very happy with it.

Those are very small servos, and not terribly strong. A single standard size servo would probably be a better bet, assuming that it would fit the model. An Alturn AAS700STD is a good example, ballraced and reliable but also quite cheap.

Your pinion and spur need to be the same pitch to mesh properly. The one you linked to is 48dp. Will this work with your 20 pitch spur?

Your tyre choice will be fine for initial testing, but you may want to refine it once you have had a few runs on your chosen surface. Personally I like Enneti foams.

The lack of a diff will make your car rather difficult to control. It is likely to push into corners until it reaches its limit, then experience snap oversteer. If the diff can't be printed, can you mount an off-the-shelf item instead?

Bearings should not be clicking or binding, even when new. Did you need to push them firmly into the recesses or onto the shafts? If you did, and if said recesses and shafts aren't perfectly round, they may be distorting the bearing races, leading to the issues you describe.

And do you have a driver figure planned? RC F1 is a bit like VTA in that the idea is for the cars to look somewhat realistic as well as perform well. To that end, many clubs insist on a driver being present.

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5 minutes ago, Hobgoblin said:

You have reminded me to finish mine!

If you've "only" printed that much, you might want to look into the Linden Aero Edition. I only found out about that... too late.

https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:2912703

 

Something I found out while doing this, however, is the front snaps - a lot. What perimeter did you print the front at (Not the nose)?

 

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22 minutes ago, Concodroid said:

That's interesting. I'm not quite going for speed, nor am I going to race it on a track - really, it's just a sort of project. Due to how low it is, I can't go that fast anyway - literally everything save for screws, electrics and bearings is printed - the front wing will snap if it hits anything at speed.

I'm not sure how much it weighs with batteries and etc, but the page says 170 grams, and adding that to the weight of the car, esc, and motor(around 432 grams) gives us around 602 grams, or 1.3 pounds. Adding the rest of the components would probably yield 1.5 pounds.

How fast would you say a 35 turn motor would go with a 1.5 pound car?

If it's faster than 13 mph or so, then I'm fine, I just don't want it to be New Bright slow.

I'll upgrade to a faster motor in a couple months, I really don't want to break the car. (I don't have access to the 3d printer and won't until quarantine ends).

As for the diff, that can be printed as well. It's complicated, and I... well, can't print.

During the installation of the bearings, I think I bent the inside cover of the bearing very slightly. But due to the fact the clicking noise is quite soft, I hope the bearing gets worn into place..

 

As for the figure, I's just a helmet. I printed the helmet... and it's with my printer, out of my reach.

 

The pinion gear I'm not entirely sure about. The actual pinion gear (or a slight modification) can be found here - https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1478712

I just based the pinion gear I was looking for on that, as I forgot to print the pinion gear. Oops.

As for the actual project, https://www.thingiverse.com/thing:1193309

There's modifications to it, with an actual racing body and stuff, elsewhere on Thingiverse.

Hard to answer your speed question - it depends on the gearing you plan on running. However 35t motors are typically used in crawlers and scale trucks - not speedy at all - so I doubt very much that you'll be going at any significant speed.

If it is just a bearing shield that is bent, this shouldn't cause any significant issues. However if it is the inner race that is deformed, it is unlikely to self-rectify, so you're probably looking at a new bearing at some point down the line.

A driver's head/helmet is enough to satisfy all but the most stringent scrutineers, as well as the spirit of the thing, so you're good on that front. And if it isn't going to be raced it doesn't matter really.

Thingiverse recommends a 01 module pinion. These ones here will fit your motor shaft:

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/pinion-gears/rc-car-categories/9920/992050&MSAttributeID[41]=645&MSAttributeID[110]=1246

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On 3/25/2020 at 4:55 PM, TurnipJF said:

Hard to answer your speed question - it depends on the gearing you plan on running. However 35t motors are typically used in crawlers and scale trucks - not speedy at all - so I doubt very much that you'll be going at any significant speed.

[annihilated]

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6 minutes ago, Concodroid said:

It should work, yes. The shaft on your motor is 3.17mm, so the bore might need a little gentle reaming to fit, but it may be that the bore is actually 3.17mm and it has been mis-listed.

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18 minutes ago, Concodroid said:

Thank you.

 

Also, here's a video of the car. I'm not sure if Daniel is running 35t, but it is rather quick.

 

Having looked at a few of Daniel Norée's other videos in which you can see the electronics fitted to the car, it appears that he uses a 21.5t Turnigy Trackstar brushless motor, which would be a fair bit faster than your 35t brushed one.

Also in the course of said investigations, I see why you chose such a tiny servo. The OpenRC steering servo mount appears to small to accommodate a standard one, so please ignore my suggestion of an Alturn AAS700STD as it won't fit.

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5 minutes ago, Concodroid said:

Probably an upgrade, but hopefully it's reasonably fast. Either way, I'll upgrade it after a little.

For the upgrade, what number of turns would you recommend?

Daniel's one seems to happily handle the 21.5t brushless, so I'd go for one of those, or a 27t brushed motor which would give similar performance and utilise your existing speed controller.

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1 minute ago, Concodroid said:

Alright.

Thanks a ton for your help, but I have one last question...

Do you think the motor (https://www.amazon.com/Waterproof-Brushed-Electronic-Controller-WP-1060-RTR/dp/B076YFK73S/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_pl_foot_top?ie=UTF8) would be able to handle 3s batteries? The ESC is fine, but I'm not sure about the motor...

Aye, the motor should be fine. Its lifespan will be reduced obviously, but you should still get plenty of runs out of it before it dies.

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