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Saito2

Paint runs

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Anybody have any success sanding down paint runs and polishing the affected area without re-painting? I botched the paint job on my Grassshopper.  In the 1:1 world, its possible to carefully sand runs flat and then polish/buff the area back to a shine as long as you don't sand through. Does Tamiya's synthetic lacquer TS paint sand and polish ok or should I just give up? Thanks. 

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i have done it a few times with no worries (yet) but i have gone through the colour coat a few times ...then all i did was flash back over.

as you have said about the 1.1 cars treat the shell in the same manner do it bits at a time stop and check and when you cant see the raised section(the run) no more you good to go the further you get dont apply as much pressure plus bare in mind before you start on how many coats you have apply'd. plus dont forget polishing does remove the clear coat over time as well

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Very true re 1:1 @Saito2 

Never had similar luck 1:12 or 1:10 - largely because the ‘run’ size doesn’t scale + it’s ended up too large to flat out evenly w/o looking rubbish 

That said, I’m not great with paint + will watch this thread to see how pro’s might do better 👍

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You need to give runs time to harden. Often people try and sand them when they are still soft. Take it every easy and slow and you might be ok.

I normally cut through the surrounding paint before I get the run flat.

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Its one big drip on the lower right side I have to contend with (the "Grasshopper Racing Team " decal goes over it). There's also some dirt nibs I'd like to knock down a bit and polish out. Fingers crossed.

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i have also in the past nipped the bulk of the run with a sharp blade then that way you cut down on the work.

as for the "dirt  nibs" i use what is called a de-dibbing block and pads to get bits of dirt or fish eyes in the paint

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3m-finesse-it-Daisy-discs-De-Nibbing-Pads-Great-For-Detailing-Or-Nibbing-Laqcuer/352874874599?hash=item5228fb46e7:g:bbIAAOSwTbFd5EHa

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Flexipads-30mm-HARD-DE-NIBBING-BLOCK-BLACK-GRIP-PSA/112730923061?epid=1162323839&hash=item1a3f496035:g:1xUAAOSwDPhdWpd1

i used these a lot when i was detailing esp as the painters that was used was useless and came back in a worse state that went

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I have find that if the run or drip is quite a lump, getting a very sharp i.e new stanley or craft knife blade, and almost laying it flat can be used to slice the top off, makes it a lot easier than trying to sand it flat. You will always have to sand it anyway, but trying to sand down a lump is a nightmare.

Just make sure the paint has been left to dry first.

J

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try wrapping or taping a piece of wet/dry to a lollypop/popsicle stick and lightly go at just that area. The key I've found to sanding flats is to minimise the are the wet/dry comes into contact with paint that is ok. By keeping the area small and flat you really minimise this risk.

hope that helps

 

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Well, the drip is still soft. When it dries, I will try to slice off the bulk of it as suggested and then try @jonboy1 suggestion to level it.

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2 hours ago, Saito2 said:

Well, the drip is still soft. When it dries, I will try to slice off the bulk of it as suggested and then try @jonboy1 suggestion to level it.

I’m intrigued to how big this paint run is now.  Post a pic please ☺️

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16 hours ago, Toolmaker72 said:

I’m intrigued to how big this paint run is now.  Post a pic please ☺️

20200401_101533

 

Here it is. It was fine when I was finished spraying. Came back a bit later to check on it and there it was. Its still soft too ("nail prints").

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Looks a good finish otherwise 😕.

For that once you try slicing it off, use t-cut as the lubricant with the wet n dry. 
or use the sharp style line to mask to then re-paint that area once flat. When you remove the masking use  t-cut on a paper kitchen towel to carefully smooth the masked edge and blend in. 🙂

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