Jump to content
Jonathon Gillham

HW1060 shutting down

Recommended Posts

I'm not actually sure what the problem is, but the ESC seems like the logical place to start.

I have a HW1060 (pretty sure its real since it was packaged as HW but who knows), JX 4409 servo, Super Stock TZ and Sanwa rx, running on 2S lipo in a Top Force. 

It ran about 15-20mins yesterday then the steering would work but no throttle.  The motor was as hot as I'd want but not cooking.  Turning off then on it may run for a second or 2 then just stop again.  No warning lights, beeps etc.  Battery still at 7.8v so had plenty of juice.  The jumpers are on lipo and F/B/R.  The ESC wasn't hot, and it shouldn't be a problem running 23T on 2S when the specs say it can handle down to 12T

Today I dropped the pinion a tooth (motor came off at 55deg, so its fine).  Car ran for about 10 - 15min this time before doing the same thing.  The battery still has 8.1v

I've played around with the jumpers, turning it off and on made no difference.  The rx light is still blue which suggests thats ok (and the steering still works).  Turning it off and leaving it and the ESC didn't do the usual calibration beeps when I turned it back on.

So nothings hot, there is plenty of charge in the battery, steering works but just no throttle.

Any ideas?

  • Confused 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

I'm not actually sure what the problem is, but the ESC seems like the logical place to start.

I have a HW1060 (pretty sure its real since it was packaged as HW but who knows), JX 4409 servo, Super Stock TZ and Sanwa rx, running on 2S lipo in a Top Force. 

It ran about 15-20mins yesterday then the steering would work but no throttle.  The motor was as hot as I'd want but not cooking.  Turning off then on it may run for a second or 2 then just stop again.  No warning lights, beeps etc.  Battery still at 7.8v so had plenty of juice.  The jumpers are on lipo and F/B/R.  The ESC wasn't hot, and it shouldn't be a problem running 23T on 2S when the specs say it can handle down to 12T

Today I dropped the pinion a tooth (motor came off at 55deg, so its fine).  Car ran for about 10 - 15min this time before doing the same thing.  The battery still has 8.1v

I've played around with the jumpers, turning it off and on made no difference.  The rx light is still blue which suggests thats ok (and the steering still works).  Turning it off and leaving it and the ESC didn't do the usual calibration beeps when I turned it back on.

So nothings hot, there is plenty of charge in the battery, steering works but just no throttle.

Any ideas?

That sounds like a low voltage cutoff perhaps

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
18 hours ago, rwordenjr said:

That sounds like a low voltage cutoff perhaps

Thats unlikely unless its faulty I think, or a faulty battery. The battery has good voltage (measured 7.8v and 8.1v) and is a new lipo with maybe 8 runs, gens ace too so should be good. The motor shouldn't be drawing massive current to cause a voltage drop either like a mod motor could.

To me its behaving like its overheating but the temps aren't that high

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

What are the brushes like in the motor, they tend not to work too well if they've worn down.

I'm guessing you've tried the tx on another car to rule that out? 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
34 minutes ago, Wooders28 said:

What are the brushes like in the motor, they tend not to work too well if they've worn down.

I'm guessing you've tried the tx on another car to rule that out? 

 

I haven't checked the brushes but the motor was brand new and I think its done about 5 packs through.  It runs fine for a while then just stops - would the brushes be bent out of shape and then return or something?  Also, I don't know how to check brushes, I like brushless for a reason!

Funnily enough I haven't tried the tx on another car since its just worked for the last 3 years.  I really hope its not that, its my Sanwa MT4S so a replacement will be spendy.  Also, the steering works still, but I guess it could be one of the channels with an intermittent fault on the rx?

How do those little jumpers work?  If they are unplugged entirely I assume that it'll just default to a setting and the ESC will still work?  Could they be damaged somehow?  I find them fiddly and probably mess it up when I change them around.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

I haven't checked the brushes but the motor was brand new and I think its done about 5 packs through.  It runs fine for a while then just stops - would the brushes be bent out of shape and then return or something?  Also, I don't know how to check brushes, I like brushless for a reason!

Funnily enough I haven't tried the tx on another car since its just worked for the last 3 years.  I really hope its not that, its my Sanwa MT4S so a replacement will be spendy.  Also, the steering works still, but I guess it could be one of the channels with an intermittent fault on the rx?

How do those little jumpers work?  If they are unplugged entirely I assume that it'll just default to a setting and the ESC will still work?  Could they be damaged somehow?  I find them fiddly and probably mess it up when I change them around.

do you have another car you can try the tx on ?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
9 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

I think its done about 5 packs through.  It runs fine for a while then just stops - would the brushes be bent out of shape and then return or something?

If it's new, I'll guess the brushes are fine, but I'd still be tempted to slide the brushes out, and check they're free sliding, as if they stick, it'll give the symptoms of a worn brush.

Unclip the red arrow first and then the whole spring should pivot, and allow to come out of the groove, blue arrow. (Take photos if you're not sure, as you'll need to put it back together!)

The brush should slide out nicely, check the running face, for burns or arcing. If it needs dressed, a bit of fine sandpaper (2400 grit, and even then, rub it over some scrap metal first, to take the harshness out of it) down the side so it slides smooth, and for the running face, I've wrapped the sandpaper around a pencil before now, to get a ,close enough, profile (there's motor dressers out there, but im guessing you're not overly concerned about a couple of wasted rpm?)

2020-04-03_08-58-06

 

There's 2 jumpers on the 1060, the ,'Mode' has 3 positions , where no jumper is F/R , the battery only has 2 positions, so needs a jumper, left 2 is for Lipo,  right 2 is nimh.

Its probably not the TX ,as it's running for a bit, but I'd still check that first, before faffing with motors etc, just to cross it off the list, and give you an excuse to run something else! 😁

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, Wooders28 said:

Its probably not the TX ,as it's running for a bit, but I'd still check that first, before faffing with motors etc, just to cross it off the list, and give you an excuse to run something else! 😁

Just in the name of science I took the RC10B6D out for a run around and no issues at all with the tx (I didn't expect any, but have to check.  That TX is worth about what I've put into the Top Force so I was really hoping there wasn't nothing wrong with it!).  It was horrible, having such a well sorted car running laps for 20mins in our backyard track, its amazing what we do in the name of science.

Thanks for the detailed explanation of the brushes, haven't tried yet.  My son watched tv all day yesterday (its week 2 of lockdown, he literally went from his bed to a blow-up bed in the lounge and lay on that all day watching tv, only got up for lunch and dinner) and so today is no tv day, which means its hard to find 5mins to do anything.  I should also swap a silvercan in to rule out motors, and also that removes any kind of stress on the ESC.

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have 3 of the re-branded 1060 ESC by GoolRC (exactly the same as HW except for the brand name. HPI, Tritronic, Surpass also uses this). One is installed in my CC-01, one for my 4wd rally car and the third on my FF rally car. So far none of them have glitched, stopped working nor malfunctioned. I'm suspecting that the capacitor of your may be damaged. I've had a similar problem with my old ESC in the past (Futaba MC230) that I used on my TA-04R for on-road back in 2005. After 3 to 4 mins of usage, it shuts off. Same thing happens. Servos working but no motor movement. Then after a few minutes of rest, it would run again but halt again after sometime. It became a cycle.

Until a friend of mine suggested and explained that I install a schottke diode. It stops the voltage current from going back to the ESC from the motor during freewheel spins. Although the schottke is used for ESC without reverse or reverse function disabled. Because the schottke is a one-way flow only.

Another option is to add another power capacitor and will prevent over-current or under-voltage drops to the ESC. Maintains a smooth, steady flow of current and keeps the temperature on the ESC low which keeps it safe. Though the 1060 is already equipped with a capacitor, adding another one of the same value as installed won't hurt. It'll help even more.

When I installed both the schottke and capacitor to the Futaba ESC, it solved the problem.

 

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Nicadraus said:

I have 3 of the re-branded 1060 ESC by GoolRC (exactly the same as HW except for the brand name. HPI, Tritronic, Surpass also uses this). One is installed in my CC-01, one for my 4wd rally car and the third on my FF rally car. So far none of them have glitched, stopped working nor malfunctioned. I'm suspecting that the capacitor of your may be damaged. I've had a similar problem with my old ESC in the past (Futaba MC230) that I used on my TA-04R for on-road back in 2005. After 3 to 4 mins of usage, it shuts off. Same thing happens. Servos working but no motor movement. Then after a few minutes of rest, it would run again but halt again after sometime. It became a cycle.

Until a friend of mine suggested and explained that I install a schottke diode. It stops the voltage current from going back to the ESC from the motor during freewheel spins. Although the schottke is used for ESC without reverse or reverse function disabled. Because the schottke is a one-way flow only.

Another option is to add another power capacitor and will prevent over-current or under-voltage drops to the ESC. Maintains a smooth, steady flow of current and keeps the temperature on the ESC low which keeps it safe. Though the 1060 is already equipped with a capacitor, adding another one of the same value as installed won't hurt. It'll help even more.

When I installed both the schottke and capacitor to the Futaba ESC, it solved the problem.

 

 

 

Thanks, this is sounding promising. Except the part where I have to order capacitors and diodes and solder them on.

I like having reverse in the backyard - will the capicitor fix it do you think or will it need the diode? 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

Thanks, this is sounding promising. Except the part where I have to order capacitors and diodes and solder them on.

I like having reverse in the backyard - will the capicitor fix it do you think or will it need the diode? 

The capacitor will definitely help. It's very easy to install if you have soldering knowledge/skill which can be learned especially at this time (since we are all on a quarantine).

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 4/4/2020 at 8:16 PM, Nicadraus said:

The capacitor will definitely help. It's very easy to install if you have soldering knowledge/skill which can be learned especially at this time (since we are all on a quarantine).

I haven't done anything about this since we have been in a lockdown since this problem started.

The HW 1060 doesn't have external capacitors - how do I add more?

Will just setting it to F / B and removing reverse be a short term fix? Or does it need the diode as well?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, Jonathon Gillham said:

I haven't done anything about this since we have been in a lockdown since this problem started.

The HW 1060 doesn't have external capacitors - how do I add more?

Will just setting it to F / B and removing reverse be a short term fix? Or does it need the diode as well?

Should be easy to do that actually. Just solder the poles to the respective polarities. The side of the capacitor with the black line is the negative or sometimes, there's a marking of polarity. Longer pole is positive. But you will need to cut them shorter of course and use some shrink tubing to avoid shortening the circuit.

main-qimg-6fbe88b8f24a11fa70cb2dfcd8754839.webp

By the way, you will need to pen up the casing of the ESC which is very easy to do as well. Just use a precision screw driver to pry open the sides and the casing should come off easily.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a few 1060s and one of them also does this. Its a genuine one too.

I added extra caps and it made no difference so i just switched it to nimh mode instead and use a lipo alarm. Problem solved.

If yours has the same issue mine did, it seems to be a problem with the voltage cut off. Mine was going into low speed linp mode though rather than shutting off completely.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just had a thought - would the motor be the problem here?  Its a secondhand TZ, if the comm needs cutting etc, would that cause it to draw more current and affect the ESC?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Just swapped the RZ which had the comm cut the other day and it works fine. So the secondhand motor was worn out, its cheap enough to get sorted though so no major drama. Other than the place I take them to is over the other side of the harbour bridge that is broken, so maybe have to wait a few weeks

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 5/3/2020 at 1:09 PM, graemevw said:

I have a few 1060s and one of them also does this. Its a genuine one too.

I added extra caps and it made no difference so i just switched it to nimh mode instead and use a lipo alarm. Problem solved.

If yours has the same issue mine did, it seems to be a problem with the voltage cut off. Mine was going into low speed linp mode though rather than shutting off completely.

Was just about to throw an almost new 1060 in the bin when i stumbled upon this thread. Switched to nimh mode and it seems sorted. Thanks! 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Actually getting into it further, because the nimh thing ended up not working. Seems that the replacement motor screws i was using were 1mm too long and were doing something weird to the motor. Tested the esc on another motor, worked fine. Then tested on the original motor when i pulled it out of the car, worked fine. Put it back in, didn't work. Added some washers to the motor bolts, works fine. @Jonathon Gillham try some washers or slightly shorter motor bolts. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

Actually getting into it further, because the nimh thing ended up not working. Seems that the replacement motor screws i was using were 1mm too long and were doing something weird to the motor. Tested the esc on another motor, worked fine. Then tested on the original motor when i pulled it out of the car, worked fine. Put it back in, didn't work. Added some washers to the motor bolts, works fine. @Jonathon Gillham try some washers or slightly shorter motor bolts. 

I think that it was the motor in my case.  I pulled the TZ apart and its knackered, it may be too worn to cut the comm again, I won't know til I take it in to get looked at. The fresh RZ is working well so far but I have to give it a proper test.  I'll hopefully do that this afternoon as part of the Postal challenge

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have an HW1060 with the same issue. It goes into limp mode after a short amount of running time... and by short, I mean less than a minute. Turning it off then on again resets the ESC and it works at full speed, for another minute or so. It's definitely the  ESC, I've tried it in two different cars with different motors of varying turn speeds and it has the same result. I'm considering buying the capacitor module (or maybe two, just in case) as I've just bought another HW1060, not opened yet... so hopefully I won't have a second dodgy one.

One of the motors was a new 15t (HPI Firebolt) and the other was an old 21t (unknown) and the HW1060 is capable of up to (or down to?) 12t... so I'm pretty convinced here that the ESC is definitely at fault.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Now one of my 1060 had begun to shut down. Like most cases, steering works fine but throttle does only run at full speed then cuts off. No throttle and the ESC gets very hot. After a long rest. Maybe 30 minutes when it cools off. The throttle works again and shuts down like a cycle. I ordered 16v 470uF capacitors and will do my own. Will let you guys know. :)

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've also recently had 2 x 1060's do exactly the same, run for a minute or so then shut down , turn on and off and the the process is repeated. I managed to exchange both from the seller and touch wood, the replacements have been fine. I was using 17 turn motors at the time of the problem.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I was about to jump in.... But you HAVE the solution!! My 1060 did that too. I soldered a 2500uf Capacitor between the positive and negative leads - SORTED!! Just like that. 😊

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/28/2020 at 7:05 PM, Carmine A said:

I was about to jump in.... But you HAVE the solution!! My 1060 did that too. I soldered a 2500uf Capacitor between the positive and negative leads - SORTED!! Just like that. 😊

Do you need a capacitor that high capacity? I am very new to all this, but there's a shop in the UK that does the spare cap bank for the 10BL60 Hobbywing brushless 60amp ESC for £4. It's this one, but looks like it's only 660uf total.

https://www.rccarshop.co.uk/electrics/power-caps/hw86030030-hobbywing-power-capacitor-p

What do you think?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...