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Will Tamiya RC Series FineSpec kit have everything I need....

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To use in the MidNight Pumpkin?

or the mini lunchbox?

I was trying to find all the parts separately online (transmitter, servo, receiver...), it LOOKS like this has everything?


thank you

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This depends on what car you will choose. In case of the Pumpkin you will not need a esc which is included in the FineSpec kit, for the Mini Lunchbox you will need it. The 7.2 V batterie which is included in the set will not fit the Lunchbox Mini but is suitable for the Pumpkin. I would say buy a transmitter / receiver set, a charger which is suitable for Nimh and LiFe and LiPo batteries and decide for a car kit. Then you can choose a suitable servo and a esc if needed. 

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Just a bit of general information: 

IMHO, in order to get an RC car up and running out of the box you need:
- Radio + matching (!) receiver. Wether that's a 27 Mhz AM set, or you decide that it's no longer 1983 and go for a 2.4Ghz set is up to you. For a beginner basically any radio will do within reason.
- Steering servo. 99% of all Tamiya RC cars need just a bog-standard servo. Buy a decent one and it buy it once, buy a crappy one and you keep buying them.
- Electric motor. Pretty much every Tamiya kit comes with a silver can motor. This is fine. You do not need more power than the silver can can give you. Now repeat after me; you DO NOT need more power than a silver can if you're just starting out.
- ESC. Again 99% of Tamiya cars come with a bog-standard silver can. Most Tamiya cars have a perfectly fine ESC included. Some do not. For the ones that don't, buy a brushed ESC. I swear by the Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 or 1080. 
- Battery. Pretty much every Tamiya car will fit a six-cell NiMH pack. They're the same kind of battery you'd find in a cordless drill. Same weight too. Most modern cars will fit a 2S Lipo. Half the weight, double the runtime, and just a bit more hassle than a NiMH pack. Some 'weird' cars are exceptions to this and require their own shape of battery, but I'm talking just two or three from the top of my head. NiCads also exist. Don't do that. Just...don't. 
- Charger. Well, you're gonna want to charge that battery, right? If you're planning on buying a Lipo at some point, buy a Lipo-capable charger. If you're just going to run with a NiMH pack you can use pretty much any charger. If you're buying a Lipo buy a Lipo-capable charger and READ THE MANUAL. Simple as that.
- Proper charging leads. Will probably be included with the charger. Most people here run Tamiya-plugs (not the official name), but the faster stuff uses Deans or even directly connect the battery with banana plugs. For a beginner; Tamiya plugs are the way.
- Batteries for your radio. Most take 4 AAs, some take 8 AAs. A select few have their own battery pack. How fancy is that? Said pack can usually be charged with above charger. Do the environment a favor and buy rechargeable AAs. 

Not strictly required but **** convenient to have:
- JIS 1 and JIS 2 (or M and L, I've seen them labeled both ways) screwdrivers. No, I don't mean Philips-head screwdrivers. Yes, I'm positive, trust me. Tamiya is a Japanese brand and therefor they use JIS screws instead of Philips heads. Yes, that matters. If you own a Japanese(-built) car or bike you know what I'm talking about. My Tamiya-set comes in handy when working on the wife's Honda CBF or my old Mazda MX5. Also, my PlayStation 1 had them.
- Needle-nose pliers. For pinching stuff, some of it is your fingers. Duh.
- Box-wrench with a 3.5, 4, 5, and 6mm end. A brand-new Tamiya kit will have that thing included. If you buy something second-hand it might not.
- 1.5mm and (depending on kit) a 2mm hex-head wrench/screwdriver. See above. New kits will have the correct one included.
- Paints! If you buy something with a lexan shell, buy paint suitable for lexan shells. Sounds obvious, isn't obvious in my experience. At my old track I've had to vacuum up flakes of 'wrong' paint from shedding shells far too many times. If your kit of choice has an ABS shell (we call those hard bodies. Don't laugh.) you need a wholly different process. I've been told in order to get a good finish it involves a lot of sanding, possibly sacrificing a goat somewhere in-between. Read; I suck at painting hard bodies. (Seriously, stop laughing in the back!)
- A bit of plastic-friendly grease. A new Tamiya-kit will have that included. If not, any white grease will do. 
- A bit of loctite or similar. Some kits don't require it. (most newer 'plastic' kits), others will absolutely fall apart within yards if you don't stick it shut. (I'm looking at you here, Tiger tank)
- A bit of super glue. Again, not always required. Keep away from fingers. I'm talking from experience here. On the upside, I probably cannot be identified through finger printing anymore.

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