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First Tamiya Truck: Grand Hauler - Advice welcomed!

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Hi team, well, I've come to the "dark side" and FINALLY pulled the pin on a Truck! Given the COVID world we live in I thought what the badword, a new project. I wanted to buy the Scania r620 but you LITERALLY can not get them anywhere in Australia right now. Stock is gone of nearly all trucks (desirable ones that is) so today got lucky and found a Grand Hauler (it was my second choice anyway to the Scania) - The downside? It's the Black edition.... :( 

 

I say that "sadly" because I love painting and I want to make a "dripping wet" gloss black truck like Yamato does. His trucks are absolutely stunning.

 

So, questions for the wise.

1. Has anyone ever had a pre-painted Tamiya truck or 4WD that they sanded and RE-PAINTED???? I want to lightly sand it back and spray gloss black.

2. Yamato state that they use "two-pack urethane paint" basically automotive paint. I've done a little research, seems like it's VERY hard to pull this off unless you're a car body painter to start with. Has anyone had any luck doing it?

3. Assuming most have not used automotive paint, what's the best way to get a dripping wet look? Tons of clear coat? I've painted a bit and had some pretty good results, I have an airbrush as well, but to date most have been Tamiya rattle cans. Has anyone been over the moon with their results with Tamiya rattle cans? I would love to be able to have a very high end paint job and be able to polish it. Seems like @topforcein has a pretty amazing result with his truck as just saw it in a recent post here. 

 

To get the results that Yamato did, what's the best resources you can offer/recommend for parts like chequer plate, bling, interiors, lighting?

 

I will get the MFU-01, just wondering what else people reccomend. 

Thanks guys, looking forward to my first big-rig!

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S w e e e e t!

this is the truck, bold and chisled.

i'm just a rattle can man no input there, (dripping black paint can cause electronic failure):lol:

don't sand, Scotch Brite pad and Dawn soap.

The infamous MF'er don't get me started, there are other sound controllers and as far as the counter wieght shaker i never delved into an after market piece, as for lighting when i do another i'll use a electronic switch and light it up all at once, for sound i purchased a transducer to elimante that Big Ugly Black Speaker Box Housing and will be able to use the seats(I purchased the MFC-01 because some how you read and that's a Tamiya thing to do) read up Mad AX Arduino thread.

Diamond plate, "well now, that's special", mounted ounces of it maybe pounds, (make a great a wall paper or back splash) i personally can not live with out it.

RC4WD:

Hot Racing is ok and  it comes in black also:

Yeah Racing has two patterns: 

some patterns (1/10) are not to scale for 1/14, Yeah racing i beleive is what i used on mine.

there is even plastic, i've never used it, Plastruct 

well have a truckfull "O" fun

 

 

 

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thanks very much for the compliment  and well done on going for your second choice .for me every where you look its a scania truck and they are 2 a penny tbh.

the post you saw is the second shell on that as the first one the paint i used (tamiya kit recomended) cracked all over after a month.

and i only every use rattle cans and since that shell was ruined by tamiya paint i only buy my paint from automotive paint suppliers know

that particular paint is house of kolor paint and the clear coat is 2k clear (that is how you get that finish you want)

you could always just tac cloth the shell and then shoot it with a can of 2k clear but if you want a deep black the go for either a gloss or met black base first then shoot the clear

i would not think the shell would need sanding but if you want to then use a 1000 or 1200 and wet sand it then tac cloth it but remember when painting black the prep is the key as that colour shows any inperfection the roof spoiler shows how the 2k clear looks out the can and thats how it stays and i have not need to sand only polished it when dryed.

the truck and trailer is also painted with automotive paint and finished in 2k clear and again that is how it came out the can so i would say find a supplier by you and go and see what they can do for you but use 2k clear and it is available in rattle cans but you only have around  couple of hours before it drys in the can but tbh that is more that enough to clear coat the shell i think i clear coated the trailer in that time easy.

one thing is when spraying the grand hauler shell is make sure the roof pod is in place when you spray the colour then that will colour match better

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Firstly wow, thank you so much for the responses. Exactly what I was after. I'm ecstatic that you can get 2-pack in a rattle can, what a time to be alive (lol).

So @topforcein given that I have a pre-painted body do you think I need to prime it ready for 2k? Is there a risk that laying a black base colour onto the body *as is* could cause issues?

I've found somewhere in Australia that seems to sell House of Kolor. Is this the Klear you use and do you think this black is the right one? I'm sooooo tempted to use a pearl or spec black but don't seem to have any online.

Found this pretty interesting on machine polishing afterwards (I have a bit of experience in DA polishing real cars), but unsure if I would bother.

People seem to use the Zero Paints Diamond Finish a bit for models, but I'm unsure I want to use my airbrush, I don't think I have the right nozzle and volume for this job, probably more trouble than it's worth.

Do you have any more images of your trucks? They look soooo good.

I just want to get it to look similar to the Yamato one. Imitation is the highest form of flattery?

 

 

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i would'nt have thought you you need to prime the shell but if you want you can 

as long as you prep is good you should be ok but hey as every one knows paint can and does sometimes react i have had that happen few times to me the last time was on my nose cone for my sand schorcher so i just got new and went from there.

know i personally would not use a airbrush on a shell that size you wont get the coveridge you want useing a small airbrushand small paint holder.

this is where i got the paint from for the merc truck and trailer. https://www.specialistpaints.com/collections/kustom-canz-kits-custom-aerosol-can-kits/products/kustom-canz-sparkle-pearl-kit and it came in kits but they do shell individual cans aswell. these are  a long way from where i live so i had delivery i have also used them for a few other shells aswell like this one and that if flip purple to green with a black backing  know this company is my first go to know if you have ever watched a tv progamme called wheeler dealers in one of the episodes they used paint from this company

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this is where i got the paint from for the grand hauler https://www.jawel.co.uk/index.php?main_page=index&cPath=9 these are only 15 mins from me so i went to the place. this was the 2k clear i used on the grand hauler shell https://www.jawel.co.uk/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=155_159&products_id=3430 i had them them all in rattle cans even the colour coat from house of kolor know i know it aint cheep but the results you get speaks for itself and in my eyes the cost is well worth it plus when you compare the price to the tamiya cans it works out cheaper as the made up rattle cans come in a 400 ml size so 9 times out of 10 you only need 1 can i did only use 1 can of the 2k clear to do the trailer.

that video is a good guideline for machine polishing but as i said i did not need to do this using 2k clear but as you say you have experiance so good to go if you feel the need to do it.

if that place you have put up is near to you i would say go there in person that way you will see what colour you will get as they should have the "h.o.k" paint display boards on show plus they should be able to offer advice if req i dont blame you in replicating that shell it does look nice i was thinking of doing mine in black with a blue or green tint to it but when i saw the blue i was sold on that instead

this one is one of my fav pics i have to hand of my grand hauler that is before i put alloys wheels on and i have also done a right hand drive conversion and added optic fibre light to the dash recently

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this is the first shell that the tamiya paint cracked all over

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Simply amazing stuff. Thanks for the images and more info. However the can of worms just gets deeper as you can't mention RHD and fibre optics, two things that I would be very interested in doing. Where did you get the fibre optics and dash from and can you control it from the transmitter? It's something I really want to do with mine as it adds so much to the realism. I really want a good interior (is the stock one ok?) and I want to control it all from the transmitter.

Also, did you get the wheel decals made up or found them online? I have a good friend with a sticker printing business who could help me easily but I would have to make the stickers first (which I could do, but sometimes it can be easier to just buy them).

Seems due to COVID that so many places are out of stock of so many things... I could only get my hands on a very well priced MFU-03 (Euro) but not he MFC-01.... Would it be offensive to use the 03 in a USA truck or whatever/who cares? (Either way, it was such a good price that later on in life I can put it in a Scania and get the 01 for this if I ever really want). From what I've read on this forum, the 03 is marginally technologically better...

What are your go-to hop up options? I've seen the following and am not sure where any of them sit on the quality/price scale or use to be honest. Do people tend to do things like Aluminium gearbox/axle/wheel upgrades or it's a bit whatever you like?

I saw that there are real air suspension and I'm all hot and fussy about it. Do you know anyone who's used it before? Would be stunning to have it remote controlled to raise/lower the truck. Link here.

Finally.... Electronics!

The other thing that I've been wondering is if there's any requirements from a servo torque perspective? I'm assuming that given the speed these run probably not. Just assume that they need reasonable torque and metal gears. If there's a preference to the quality or type I'm all ears.

I still have my Turnigy 9x from 2015 that I originally used on my Bruiser which from a cost and ease perspective makes the most sense to use. What do most use? Assume it's a mixed bag, but I was flirting with a new stick control system. Do you use a gate control on the let stick for low/med/high or just freestyle it? I ended up (when I switched to my 4PV Futaba wheel transmitter) using a manual switch for low/med/high and actually was very happy with that result.

 

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right the right hand drive i just did it my self using the kit dash and a bit of plastic sheet what you normally get from a lhs now its not the best but tbh it cant really be seen once installed. i have seen a few right hand drive dash's on ebay recently but non for the yank trucks but the european ones are really dear to me

the fibre optic i got from of ebay ...https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/1-14-Scale-Tamiya-Truck-Dash-Optic-Kit/254364334513?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 and this chap is really healpful i think he even does the conversion for you aswell you will need a certain glue to hold them in place also witch he informed me on what to buy plus the drill bit size aswell. as yet i dont have a update pic of the dash with the lights installed. i have not yet tryed to connect the light to the mfu as i only have the 4 ch receiver and really need to get the 6 ch one so i would say they could be controlled via the mfu but i am only running a futaba 4yf on the grand hauler and a spektrum dx6 on the merc but i do plan on swoping the grandhauler to spectrum aswell so i should work with that via 1 of the switch's

the tyre decals i got of a member but i have recently got more from ebay since i changed to alloys as i had to but a set of new tyres. i found a pic with the alloys on

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/MICHELIN-tyre-sticker-set-colour-black-4x-or-6x-for-Tamiya-1-14-truck-trailer/282322540902?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&var=581422331065&_trksid=p2057872.m2749.l2649 now atm both the sellers have pulled the item due to corona virus so all i can show you is what i brought.

as for the mfu you could wait until you get a good price on what your happy on paying but as you said if you still are planning on a scania in the future them get the o3 and do as you said  dont worrie on what other people think its your truck and you will have it the way you want.

the hop-up options i go for is what i like and find plus i wont pay silly money for stuff and in my eyes i dont see the point in swoping something that is not gonna be seen but if its come cheap i will consider it their is still a few things i want for the grand hauler but most are on sale in the usa and the postage just dont make it worth it  i do watch a lot of the european truck meet videos on u-tube and they do have some nice done up trucks.

as for the air suspension i have never really given it a thought tbh so i can't comment on it

the servo you can run what you have i only run the cheap ones on my truck tbh and they are good enough the steering on the truck is not the best anyway as the turning circle is rubbish but their is ways to make it a bit better one thing is you cant put a analogue servo on the newer mfu as they are digital and tend to interfere with them.

the mfu's can somtimes be a head scratcher when it come to setting them up esp if its ya first time but as you have experience with the bruiser set up you should be ok

i do have the gates for the futaba but as i really have never run the truck its waiting to be put on i have made my own gates for the dx6 as i use that for both my merc truck and bruiser

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Belated response, apologies!

Firstly @topforcein thank you so much for the response again, brilliant also with links. Sadly as you mentioned he's not answering as I emailed and he is definitely away!

Had a long, long list of things to purchase and do prior to Easter and to make sure that things started to ship so I could not lose momentum (hate waiting weeks for parts to complete builds, it's a killer).

So, what's happened? Bought an MFU-03 for a VERY good price as the MFU-01 that were in Australia were all over $500AUD, so got the Euro one for about $369, while not technically correct, whatever. Great price and better tech.

Next was I called all the stores who claimed to stock House of Kolor and none had any spray cans. Called the website where I was going to originally buy them from and he also had nothing left in stock. I asked him what he would recommend and we settled on Harley Davidson Vivid Black Deebers Basecoat aerosol and then the SprayMax 2K Uni Clear High Gloss. MAN IT'S EXPENSIVE to buy automotive paints. That cost me $114AUD with shipping. My God it better look amazing!

When I asked him how to paint his recommendation was:

  • Shadow Coat base black, wait 10min
  • Heavy "wet" coat black base, wait 15min
  • Light coat 2K clear, wait 30min
  • 2nd clear coat, wait 20 min
  • 3rd clear coat, wait 24~48hrs then cut and polish if needed

I also decided to stick with my original Turnigy 9x Transmitter, but want to "upgrade it" so purchased a 5V Micro USB Programmer Arduino Bootloader and will follow this Youtube to upgrade the firmware and customise the control.

I've also bought a graphite stick shift for it.

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I'm also very far down the tyre decal rabbit hole and am working out how to either do waterslide decals myself or get a mate who does decals to do them for me. Have created the graphics in Illustrator and am ready to go!

Outside of that, started the build but had to stop as the MFU hasn't turned up :( 

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I still need to find the fiber optics for the interior, work out what interior I need, get a smoke kit, chequer plate or the like and a servo plate for the 5th wheel (surprised it doesn't come with one...). I also want to do the double fuel tanks like Yamato, need to find a reasonable place to buy them as eBay's only option was like $78USD which is MADNESS.

Then, finally, need to work out a trailer and what would look best.

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i searched for the fuel tanks also and came up with the same kind of prices so i used the spare fuel tanks that come in the mfu kit but they needed to be modified to fit plus they don't cost any extra.

the kit does come with a 5th wheel servo plate but it is plastic and there is a hop-up for it i don't know if this is the one your after the num is 56535

dont go for a european 3 wheeler trailers as the scale dont look right only really the flatbed the fuel tanker or the semi trailer( but this trailer come with corrigated side panels)  but you may need the roof spolier  as you can see the size diff between my 3 trucks in the first post i put up and you can see my merc with the reefer trailer.

the seller for the fibre optics may have the virus if he ain't answering your questions as he answered my questions fast plus he has taken all his items of sale so you will have to keep checking as i think he is the only one that does them and tbh that can be dont at any time you will need to paint and decal first so you know where to drill the holes.

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Some updates! Have received many packages this week:

Very excited to finally buy and install an MFU:

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Got the 2k Base and Clear coat, to say I'm stressed about messing it up would be an understatement... I guess I'll just have to do my best and see how it goes.

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Wanted to do the Turnigy 9x Firmware mod so got a USBtinyISP and tried to follow this awesome video. Sadly, it's been a total nightmare and has taken me 2+days and I still can't do it. It's a very technical thing to do and unless you have experience in Arduino and programming I probably wouldn't reccomend it. I'm currently trying to fix it with the help of the Arduino community. Anyhow, if successful I'll post back here on that one!

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Some more updates!

 

Well, I waited for the best weather I could and took the painting plunge. I was admittedly way more paranoid about this than when I spray with Tamiya rattle cans and there's good reason why, it was much harder and the can control and spray out of these automotive ones is far less controlable than with our little Tamiya cans. All in all, I'm pretty unhappy with the result. Considering it cost me $100 in paint for this very expensive experiment.

The Black went on OK, but I feel like there was a bit of ornage peel (not tons but some) then started the clear 2k. Did three coats and again, wasn't happy with the result. To the average punter it looks good, but to people who know it's orange peel city.

I tired to polish it and looked at a lot of tutorials (I have a fair bit of experience on 1:1 cars with polishing and have a full DA polisher and kit) but this was a different beat all-together. Tried to wet sand, then use a Dremel with pad and polish. Nightmare.

Tested it on the back cab panel, not worth the hassle. Ended up trying a bit on the side panel and went through to the base layer, nearly cried.

Decided to leave it and not make it worse. Normally I would keep going and just re-spray if it didn't work out, but the challenge here is that with automotive paint, the cost and also the body with rivets on these models is that you only really get one shot at it. I'll just use something like Scratch X 2.0 and then a final polish and wax on the body to "put lipstick on a pig" if you will. I'm confident it'll look **** hot on a shelf to the average eye still, but to get it to the level I want I think the next skill I need to learn will be PROPER air-brush 2k painting with a booth. I've said it before and I'll say it again bodywork and painting are now (to me at least) the final frontier of this hobby. Nothing challenges me from a build perspective, it's all about body work and electronics...

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Speaking of electronics and challenges, by far the hardest thing I have done so far is trying to firstly flash my Turnigy 9x with er9x open source software. After trying for over two weeks on my brand new 16" Macbook Pro, posting on multiple Arduino and Open RC forums to no avail and trying everything under the sun, I installed Windows 10 for Mac and it worked perfectly. Never been so frustrated in my life.

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Splash screen with my Instagram handle on it as a logo I made.

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For prosperities sake here are the splash screens for anyone who wants a Tamiya screen. I love being able to do this (background in graphic design) and might do some others for trucks etc. The ones available are total crap and pretty lame IMO.(Just re-save them as .bmp files - FLICKR converted them to jog.

49864120953_cfb006a8d8_t.jpgTamiya Splash Screen for er9x

49864964767_3bb68043be_t.jpgTamiya Splash Screen for er9x

49864657436_0557e2980e_t.jpgTamiya Splash Screen for er9x

The Tamiya MFU-03 is arguable the second most frustrating thing I have ever done in this hobby, I was prepared for it to be a nightmare (even the TLU-01/02 is a pain) but this one something else... Trying to understand how these work with a Turnigy 9x 2.4GHZ transmitter was like learning an Alien language. There are a lot of tutorials on Youtube for things like the Spektrum DX6i but not many good ones for my control.

There are so many things to fundamentally understand that this is one of those things that I would not recommend any beginner to try. I'm still actually deep in it and haven't got it even close to where I want it.

Question for the hive mind:

#1 - I want to control the headlights from a switch. I have tried googling every combination and can not find it anywhere. I've messed with mixes and just can't seem to get it to work. I basically need the gear switch when activated to send the signal to the elevator channel (channel 2) that it is at 35% while not de-activating the stick elevator functions. I know people have worked out how to make switches control lights, seen it a lot. Just no simple instructions. To be honest if I find the motivation when I have this all worked out I'll write a clear list for other who come up against the pain and suffering of what I have just been through.

I'll post more images and get some VERY good images of the truck when closer to finished. Love an image heavy thread, it's what makes these forums the best still.  

 

 

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I share your frustrations with orange peel - I was literally just painting and my can of automotive clear lacquer ran out prematurely (still felt a liquid inside when shaking) so it just blasted my parts with a fine mixture of accelerant and a fine mist, making it go from nice gloss to orange peel and almost matt effect in one fowl swoop :(

I think your truck looks great though, especially for your first try.

As for Mac OS, me and some friends have been trying to play online games during lockdown and one of us has a Mac. There are some cross-play games but in a nutshell he bought a pre-built gaming pc from Costco yesterday and our problems are solved! :lol:  

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in my experience orange peel comes from holding the can to far from what is being sprayed  i am sorry you did not get on with the method i suggested to you :(.

as every one knows black is one of the hardest colours to get a perfect finish on as it will show any imperfections .

but from what pics you put up it looks pretty dahm fine to me. get us some pics of it out in the sun

i will admit when painting something like a truck shell and in my case the merc one it was a daunting job and i am always glad when its over as i tend to always rush paint jobs seeing to i have no patience :P

i cant help you on the tx as i share you frustration with the mfu and as you say i also have the same frustration with the tlu-01/02 also as i have this in my bruiser but i cant manage to get the tlu-02 to work with my dx6 so it as been sitting in its box for 3 years :huh:

 

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Well I'm Truckin' along with the build. Trying to find "reasonably" priced mods, if anyone has any sources for the following below please share!

- Spring Antenna for side mirrors (Will cost me $50AUD to my door)

- Hood eagle ornament (Will cost me $55AUD to my door)

- Spare plastic chrome fuel tanks (We've talked about this before, but my God what a rip off for plastic parts... $73AUD to my door)

- 1/14~1/10 scale chequer/checker/anti-slip plate for the rear frame (would prefer to actually find the stuff that Yamato uses in the pic below which has small holes in it but can't find it anywhere. 

It seems that these items all cost a small fortune. While I get that I'm in Australia and the dollar is shot and shipping, it's just killing me as I want these mods so bad but christ it'll cost me the equivalent of a new truck to get them. (This is before I get a trailer!).

I guess if I had to choose I think that the antennas and hood ornament make the biggest difference to the look. But they all make the truck's appearance change dramatically... 

 

Also have started to look at repositioning the MFU in the truck so that I can get the interior into it. Seems that I think I can remove the stand that the unit is supposed to sit on and put the speaker there with the vibration unit next to it and the MFU taped to the back of it in a vertical position. Just placed them there for now. Anyone got better suggestions? The speaker feels like a gigantic waste of space. Surely there's a smaller way to have that...

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i know how you feel on them item's your after as i wanted them as well but like you with the delivery costing more than the its itself i wont buy them why not do what i did and make yourself a bug/stone guard  you may get the checker plate from your lhs 

this is how i shoe horned mu mfu into the rear of my truck 

the speaker is double sided tape to the side of the cab as it was catching the screws from the roof spoiler

the vibration unit is installed as per kit instructions but disconected as i don't like it and have not installed in my merc

ive finally managed to get some pics of the dash with the fibre optics 

hope this helps you

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The Borg! Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!  You have been assimulated.

i've taken on many wiring jobs, and yet to do this to my G.H. it's the first time i've ever been scared by wires:lol:

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Love a Borg reference.

Slowly fixing the wires, didn't get much done this weekend but did the control box wires and will do the rest in the coming days so that they're all tidy and professional. Have found over the years that wrapping the wires in expandable braid makes a huge difference to the build. I use 3mm expandable braid sleeve for most stuff. Pretty cheap and well worth the work. Pro-tip: if you use a lighter and melt the end before you insert the wires it doesn't fray as bad.

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Also bought 2x5mm Cree LED's as I want to test their brightness compared to the stock Tamiya ones. I do assume the Tamiya ones are pretty good quality, like all their other stuff, but I do think that we would be able to get much brighter and higher quality ones for headlights. I found this interesting: https://www.candlepowerforums.com/vb/showthread.php?450491-Brightest-5mm-LEDs-and-where-to-find-them But from what I gather it may have more to do with the drivers than the actual LED's. I plan on buying 2x Nichia LED's as well to compare as that forum states they're 28 lumens!!!!!!!! http://www.nichia.co.jp/en/product/led_product_data.html?type='NSDW57

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i do enjoy wire looms and heat shrink tubing, it's fun

Here's a company that makes quality truck parts LESU.

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This is the video that saved me and allowed me to get the standard functions working on my Turnigy 9x with the MFU-03. I'm yet to get answers on using a switch to control headlights but I will not give up.

 

 

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On 5/11/2020 at 1:34 AM, ACCEL said:

IMG_20200509_170233.jpg

The Borg! Ahhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhhh!  You have been assimulated.

i've taken on many wiring jobs, and yet to do this to my G.H. it's the first time i've ever been scared by wires:lol:

yeah when it was my first i felt the same ....."how the smeg am i gonna fit that lot in their" but i managed to get mateo (we all know his great videos from u-tube) to send me some pics of how he managed to hide his in his grand hauler as tbh it was a lot messy'er than mine has ended up butttttttttttttt they way i look at it whats behind closed doors dont matter all the wires running down the chassis is bradded as you can see in the pics bu tin their i cant be bothered tbh as it was the first time round then when i had to swop the shells i could not be bothered to re- do it again.

and trying to fathem out the instructions for the first time is enough to give you a heart attack.

tbh i have not turned my trucks on in nearly 2 years and i know i cant remember hot to work the dahm settings esp the merc truck witch is matched to my spektrum dx6 and if i remember the last 2 time i have turn that on it lost the setting for it so i have had to go and find the u-tube video on how to set it up again:lol:

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On 5/11/2020 at 4:44 AM, JNSD1 said:

This is the video that saved me and allowed me to get the standard functions working on my Turnigy 9x with the MFU-03. I'm yet to get answers on using a switch to control headlights but I will not give up.

 

 

this chap is the same one i used to set my dx6 up to my merc truck mfu-03 he is a life saver

oh and you prob already know this seeing you used the tlu one but the same applys to the mfu ......only use the tamiya mfu leds 

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8 hours ago, topforcein said:

oh and you prob already know this seeing you used the tlu one but the same applys to the mfu ......only use the tamiya mfu leds

No! What do you mean? You saying that there is an issue if you use any other brand of LED’s? Can’t be, surely? The only way that would be right would be if they had a different voltage and amp draw....

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10 hours ago, topforcein said:

this chap is the same one i used to set my dx6 up to my merc truck mfu-03 he is a life saver

Also, it's a female! Teri - took me a while to work that out, but the name and the painted nails was the giveaway!

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48 minutes ago, JNSD1 said:

Also, it's a female! Teri - took me a while to work that out, but the name and the painted nails was the giveaway!

HAha i saw the Nails , but the next vid was BOB from Hobbyconceps-LLC on Youtube . 

Great step by step vids on how to programe DX6e and more Transmitter setup's .  

There is a Turnigy-i6 setup , that LOOK's  like  your flysky radio ? , Bob gets that going with everthing . So that may

help ?.  He also does light dash setups , look great . You may spend sometime watching the vid's :lol:

Like i have ...  If you have not all ready :D. . 

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