Lunchbox Mini Help

[Potato749 2]

Been lurking here and you guys got me back in with rc again. Decided to build a lunchbox mini during this pick-up to play around the house. Mechanical part went fine. Bought a Quicrun 1625 esc and a Flysky FS-GT3B transmitter. I got everything plugged up and the esc does nothing but blink. I've plugged the servo into the throttle channel to check it and the trigger moves the wheel left and right. This is the second esc with the same issue. Anybody have any suggestions or ideas?

[Snowman1977 0]

Hi all,

I also have a lunchbox mini problem, not related to the above but thought i would post here.... sorry Potato...

When i 1st built my mini it was pulling a wheelie everytime i accelerated fully however after a couple of days it stopped doing it and looks like the front wheels are wheel spinning a lot on full acceleration. I got a tip to glue the wheels which i have done but this has not resolevd the issue. 

When look at the car under full acceleration it seems like the front wheels are getting a lot more drive than the rear, does anyone have any tips on how i might resolve this?

Cheers!

[Potato749 2]

No problem. Just trying to get this thing moving. Looks really good, but no go. Hobbywing's only offer of advice was to check the throttle channel on the receiver. That's why I plugged the servo in to it. It's not the receiver, but esc number two tells me it's probably not the each either. Could it be a problem with the motor or the leads from the motor swapped up?

[wolfdogstinkus 1893]

On 4/15/2020 at 11:23 PM, Snowman1977 said:

Hi all,

I also have a lunchbox mini problem, not related to the above but thought i would post here.... sorry Potato...

When i 1st built my mini it was pulling a wheelie everytime i accelerated fully however after a couple of days it stopped doing it and looks like the front wheels are wheel spinning a lot on full acceleration. I got a tip to glue the wheels which i have done but this has not resolevd the issue. 

When look at the car under full acceleration it seems like the front wheels are getting a lot more drive than the rear, does anyone have any tips on how i might resolve this?

Cheers!

The driveshafts are slipping. 

Take rear wheels off and spin hexes by hand. You will see the problem.

Had this problem on my boys cars. 

[wolfdogstinkus 1893]

6 hours ago, Potato749 said:

No problem. Just trying to get this thing moving. Looks really good, but no go. Hobbywing's only offer of advice was to check the throttle channel on the receiver. That's why I plugged the servo in to it. It's not the receiver, but esc number two tells me it's probably not the each either. Could it be a problem with the motor or the leads from the motor swapped up?

Plug your motor straight into a battery. It could even just be a single AA just to check.

What battery are you using?. If it's 4x AA's, it may not be enough voltage for the ESC. I don't have that ESC but it's worth trying a 7.2v battery or 2s lipo.

It may even be set on lipo mode which will have a voltage cut off. Check settings and remove safety cut off.

[Snowman1977 0]

2 hours ago, wolfdogstinkus said:

The driveshafts are slipping. 

Take rear wheels off and spin hexes by hand. You will see the problem.

Had this problem on my boys cars. 

Ok cheers for the reply. How did you resolve it?

[wolfdogstinkus 1893]

1 hour ago, Snowman1977 said:

Ok cheers for the reply. How did you resolve it?

Little drop of superglue. Where it joins the metal piece, where the grub screw should hold it but doesn't.

If you get the metal cross pin hop up part, it tells you to glue this bit anyway.

[Potato749 2]

I'm using the 4aa battery case for the dancing trike, but maybe this specific esc  requires a little more juice. I'll have to find something. I'm just getting back in so i don't have any batteries to try in it. Anybody know a decently priced battery and charger combo that would fit in this thing?

[Snowman1977 0]

On 4/17/2020 at 11:21 AM, wolfdogstinkus said:

Little drop of superglue. Where it joins the metal piece, where the grub screw should hold it but doesn't.

If you get the metal cross pin hop up part, it tells you to glue this bit anyway.

Cheers for the tip! All working perfectly again

[Potato749 2]

Success on my end...sort of. Tried the motor by just connecting a battery straight to it and it ran. Put your new batteries in the pack and the each synced right up and away it went. Ran it for about 4-5 minutes to check everything else out and then turned it off to tidy up the wiring. Plugged it all back up and the blinking light is back. Guess these cheap Sam's club batteries just don't have the juice. Have to get some better batteries I guess. Any ni-mh or Lipo recommendations out there so I don't spend the bank on batteries for this thing? Thanks for the advice on the battery wolf!

[wolfdogstinkus 1893]

Hobbyking do some AA turnigy 2500mah which my boys use in theirs which last ages. 

Or I also got them a small 2s lipo.

[Potato749 2]

Thanks. I'll check those out.

[Potato749 2]

Well, got some rechargeable batteries to try out. They all say 1.2v on them. Charged them up. No luck. Measured voltage on the cell to be around 5.4v. Put four new 1.5v batteries in and it works. Around 6.54v on the meter. Checked the ones i used the other day for about 7-8 minutes and they were about 6.42v. They don't work with the esc anymore. The esc just blinks. Is this thing that voltage sensitive?? The jumper is set for NI-MH batteries so according to the manual it shouldn't start cutting off the voltage until it hits 4 volts or so.

[Wooster 30]

Bit late to this party but I think your problem is that the Quicrun 1625 really is that sensitive and needs more volts than the 4 x AA rechargeable batteries can provide. I run both my Lunchbox Mini and Dual Rider on 4 x AA rechargeable batteries and Modelsport UK Trident XT-20 which can run on 4.8v. As a side note - having discovered this esc whilst looking for something that could run on low volts - I realised that it and it’s big brother the XT-12 are a great choice of esc for my standard sized Tamiyas - and have the added bonus of a switch that is the same size as the Tamiya esc ones - so fits the cars perfectly 🙂

[alvinlwh 5894]

On 4/15/2020 at 11:23 PM, Snowman1977 said:

Hi all,

I also have a lunchbox mini problem, not related to the above but thought i would post here.... sorry Potato...

When i 1st built my mini it was pulling a wheelie everytime i accelerated fully however after a couple of days it stopped doing it and looks like the front wheels are wheel spinning a lot on full acceleration. I got a tip to glue the wheels which i have done but this has not resolevd the issue. 

When look at the car under full acceleration it seems like the front wheels are getting a lot more drive than the rear, does anyone have any tips on how i might resolve this?

Cheers!

Your problem is not an electrical one but a mechanical one. The metal dogbones had came out of the plastic drive. Happens a lot. 

Follow the instructions from the hop up set and you should be fine. 

https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/89657-tamiya-57409-lunch-box-mini-sw-01/&do=findComment&comment=803283

 

[alvinlwh 5894]

On 4/14/2020 at 5:03 PM, Potato749 said:

Bought a Quicrun 1625 esc and a Flysky FS-GT3B transmitter. I got everything plugged up and the esc does nothing but blink. 

The 1625 will not work on 4.8v, needs at lest 6v according to a fellow member or 7.2v according to the specs. 

 

https://www.hobbywing.com/goods.php?id=359&filter_attr=.

You can use Mtroniks if you insist on using 4  AA (not that it is a bad thing as lipo made the thing uncontrollable). Alternative is to go lipo and turn down the DR. 

I have this in one of mine and it is tested to work with 4.8v although I now uses lipo. 

https://www.mtroniks.net/prod/car-speed-controls/Viper-Autosport-20.htm

 

 

[alvinlwh 5894]

Just realised I was answering a thread from last year! 😔