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Posted

If I'm not mistaken, it is in the amount of hop ups included in the kits. Someone please correct me if I've gotten it wrong.

Posted

The RRR came with a whole bunch of black anodized parts,a new lipo-ready chassis, gear diffs, and big shocks. It's a really trick piece.

I'm looking for an RRR chassis for my DB-01 build.

  • Like 1
Posted

Ah, there are quite a few differences...

Durga

  • Based on TRF501x wheelbase and belt size
  • Standard plastics (mostly PA and PA-GF)
  • NiMH battery tray, usable with LiPo if you get a TA05 carbon battery strap
  • No heat sink on the motor mount
  • No slipper
  • Non-reinforced drive belts
  • Ball diffs
  • Dog bones
  • CVA dampers
  • Ball bearings
  • Basic turnbuckles and adjusters
  • Body set, wheels, and tires

RR

  • Based on TRF501x wheelbase and belt size
  • Carbon reinforced plastics (PA-based)
  • LiPo battery tray
  • Heat sink on the motor mount; exposed on the bottom of the chassis
  • Slipper clutch standard
  • Reinforced drive belts
  • Gear diffs
  • CVDs
  • Big bore threaded dampers
  • Ball bearings
  • Better turnbuckles and adjusters
  • No body, no tires (can't remember if they give you wheels or not)

RRR

  • Based on the TRF503 wheelbase and belt size
  • Carbon reinforced plastics (PA-based)
  • LiPo battery tray
  • Heat sink on the motor mount, exposed on the bottom of the chassis
  • Slipper clutch standard
  • Reinforced (and longer) drive belts
  • Gear diffs (with larger tooth count)
  • CVDs
  • Big bore threaded dampers
  • Ball bearings
  • Better turnbuckles and adjusters
  • No body, no tires (can't remember if they give you wheels or not)

I started with a Durga, built a pair of Rs, and have a RR in the box.  When the RRR came out I skipped it due to the unique belts and gear diffs; I have too many parts accumulated for the TRF501x-based models and don't want to keep stock of TRF503-style parts.

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Posted

With the ball diffs, two things:

1) Pay close attention to the instructions and be sure to flip it over before installing the diff screw, spring, and lock nut.  It's a very tiny arrow in the illustration.  Some people have missed it and wonder why their ball diffs keep loosening up.

2) The diff rings are secured to the outdrives with "synthetic rubber cement."  I tried to use some Elmer's rubber cement, but it would slip the first time.  After rebuilding the diffs and using the rubber cement a second time, it would stick ok.  If I was building one for the first time again, I'd try some black RTV instead of rubber cement.  Some people have used CA glue, but you'll never get the diff ring off if you want to replace it.  Anyhow, something a little more sticky than rubber cement seems like a good idea.

Posted
On 4/18/2020 at 9:14 AM, Problemchild said:

Thanks for the tips all

any links to good glue for the diffs would be much appreciated 

JJ

You can skip the whole question by getting the 501x metal diff parts - probably worth doing. As is getting the double slipper. 

If it's going to be a shelfer then I'd just use whatever CA glue you have kicking around. There are rubberised variants which might do a better job than standard when it comes to deconstruction. 

Posted
9 minutes ago, Problemchild said:

@Howards  Fair amount of extra £ though - like 1/3 the price of the car 

:(

JJ

Yeah. On paper the Durga / DB01 looks good but you have spend a few £ on it if you want to rag it around hard without the ball diffs melting.

 

Part of the fun. I guess :)

 

I just built one, would have had an RR or RRR if I could have found one. Ended up getting the double slipper for it, will bin the plastic diff parts when they wear out etc. 

Posted

It won’t be running ;) haha

but defo ready to run

i only have 2 runners

modified neoscorcher running 3s LiPo

modified Monster beetle Running brushless 
 

I don’t need anything else haha

JJ

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