NDF 01 Nitro Force engine set up

[Muddipete79 6]

Hi,

Recently re-built NDF01 Nitro Force I have had for a while.

Unfortunately I have lost the manual with the base engine tuning settings. I have looked online for hours and cannot find any.

I did find the Nitro thunder manual, but this does not contain the engine tuning.

 

Thanks

[Problemchild 2164]

That’s v v nice 

does if have updated clutch etc?

i watched a YouTube vid about setting up nitro engines 

 

JJ

[acprc 1602]

The cars come with two manuals and for some reason Tamiya only have one on the website. I will scan the pages you need today and post here. Also, just an observation, make sure that steering servo cable is well out of the way of the centre gear when you run it!

[Muddipete79 6]

You are a legend, thanks so much.

[Muddipete79 6]

Added off-road springs and oil, foam filled buggy tyres and wheels, change gearing for wheels.

Going to run it for a while, then fully strip, clean and upgrade. Will be project for my son 10 also.

[acprc 1602]

There you go....

Nitro Force Manual.pdf

[Problemchild 2164]

6 minutes ago, Muddipete79 said:

Added off-road springs and oil, foam filled buggy tyres and wheels, change gearing for wheels.

Going to run it for a while, then fully strip, clean and upgrade. Will be project for my son 10 also.

Yeah I have the tyres badly fitted to non truck rims - when I thought about buying the truck rims it said I had to buy new pinion, new slipper clutch, new gearing for wheels 

 

JJ

[Problemchild 2164]

1 minute ago, acprc said:

There you go....

Nitro Force Manual.pdf 926.55 kB · 2 downloads

Legend!!!!

JJ

[Muddipete79 6]

Cheers mate, that was quick.

Amazing.

[acprc 1602]

3 minutes ago, Muddipete79 said:

Cheers mate, that was quick.

Amazing.

I'm sat here and my scanner's default setting is Tamiya Manual!

[Problemchild 2164]

Does it have cover pages? Or just attach to the other?

 

JJ

[Problemchild 2164]

P.s. how many of the air filter discs go in?

JJ

[acprc 1602]

30 minutes ago, Problemchild said:

Does it have cover pages? Or just attach to the other?

 

JJ

The manuals are slightly different between the NDF models. The NItro Force was issued twice. Once as a RTR and once as a kit to build and so has a different manual with everything pretty much in it. The other two, the Nitro Thunder and Nitro Blaster have two manuals for the kit. One is a Maintenance Manual and one is an Operations manual. They are like normal Tamiya manuals but slightly thinner.

[acprc 1602]

2 minutes ago, Problemchild said:

P.s. how many of the air filter discs go in?

JJ

Two, oiled with air filter oil

[Muddipete79 6]

3 minutes ago, Problemchild said:

P.s. how many of the air filter discs go in?

JJ

Try that, should be full manual without tuning

ndf01.pdf

[Problemchild 2164]

1 minute ago, Muddipete79 said:

Try that, should be full manual without tuning

ndf01.pdf 4.64 MB · 2 downloads

Yeah thanks got that one

will add the extra filter now haha

 

JJ

[Problemchild 2164]

4 minutes ago, acprc said:

The manuals are slightly different between the NDF models. The NItro Force was issued twice. Once as a RTR and once as a kit to build and so has a different manual with everything pretty much in it. The other two, the Nitro Thunder and Nitro Blaster have two manuals for the kit. One is a Maintenance Manual and one is an Operations manual. They are like normal Tamiya manuals but slightly thinner.

Do you have the front page for the operations manual (sorry I know I’m being cheeky)

thanks 

 

JJ

[acprc 1602]

Just now, Problemchild said:

Do you have the front page for the operations manual (sorry I know I’m being cheeky)

thanks 

 

JJ

For which kit?

[Problemchild 2164]

2 hours ago, acprc said:

There you go....

Nitro Force Manual.pdf 926.55 kB · 6 downloads

This one - didn’t know if that was the only 3 pages or if there was a cover sheet 

JJ

[Problemchild 2164]

God I wish I could get this things started 

I’ve had it running for a few seconds then it stops (like fuel starvation) and then won’t run again 

yet it seems to be flooded 

JJ

[Problemchild 2164]

Anyone got any tips?
 

it’s run (for about 20seconds) twice 

 

went back to stock settings 

2.5 turns on low speed valve

2.75 turns on high speed valve

idle screw gives 1mm gap on throttle 

 

I have no idea when this was last run 

seems dirty inside 

Tissue shows what came out when it got flooded - ive also given it a bit of carb cleaner.

ive also tried with 4 glow plugs 

 

this one is brand new but the element is quite far down 

this is the old one...

 

which was in the car when I got it 

when I pull the starter and cover the throttle, fuel is drawn up the fuel line.
 

I’ve watched lots of YouTube vids and they always start on like pull #2 Or 3

JJ

[guggles 367]

Its kinda hard to tell from your pictures of the glow plugs if they are in good shape or not. A glow plug should have a nice bright glow to it, sometimes a glow starter can be low on power and not the plug. 

 

Really with nitro it can be any number or things or any one thing out of many that can cause the problem. I would suggest putting some extra trim on the throttle servo to get the engine to stay running for a while. Make sure it doesnt get away from you but keeping the throttle open just enough to keep the engine running will let you get some heat into the engine. 

My guess is with that dirty oil coming out of the engine there is a lot of oil still inside the motor which was put in for storage. (which is a good thing to store an engine with oil inside it just makes them hard to start up the first time)  Getting the engine just to run for a few minutes should start clearing out all that old oil and it should start to run a lot better although rich because of the baseline setting. 

If you really cant get it to stay running giving it a bit of throttle it can be a bunch of other things too, bad plug or igniter, gummed carb, stuck clutch, bad fuel... ect. 

[mtbkym01 4870]

something you could try is pulling the engine out, and strip it down and clean all the parts with carby cleaner to clean up the internals, the old gunk in there may be hindering your progress.

It can be very hard to diagnose engine issues when you don’t know the history of the engine

[Problemchild 2164]

Thanks guys 

ill order some other glow plugs anyway 

like I said it’s fired up a few times so something is defo working

what I’d hypothesise is that the gunk in the engine is maybe fouling the glow plug?

can they be cleaned up?
 

the starter is brand new 

how do I know if the clutch is sticking?

JJ

[guggles 367]

Make sure your starter is fully charged. I cant tell you the number of times Ive tried to start a motor for more than a few minutes before I had realized the glow starter is flat. 

 

Like mtbkym01 said going through the engine and cleaning and inspecting all the parts could give you a much better fighting chance of getting the engine running good. 

But if you dont know what you are doing it can be easy to force things too much and cause damage. Also the rear backplate has a gasket that usually needs to be replaced after it is taken off. 

 

I suppose you could just take the engine out and clean it up real good on the outside, and then blast the exhaust and intake with carby cleaner to get a lot of the gunk out and then add a few drops of oil in the intake and on the piston to lube things up before trying to start it again. Thats kinda what I would start with if you dont feel comfortable taking it apart. 

How tough is it to spin the engine over right now? When the piston gets to the top of the sleeve you should have trouble turning it over with your fingers on the flywheel. If you can get the engine to rotate with little to no force on the flywheel with your fingers then the engine needs a rebuild and wont stay running no matter what. 

 

A sticking clutch is hard to describe but the engine will usually fire up for a second and then die right after, you keep trying to start it and it might light up for a second and then never be able to stay running, this is because the clutch is immediately engaging and killing the engine by trying to turn the wheels. The engine cant idle with the clutch engaged because it doesnt have enough torque at low rpms. If you increase the rpms to the point where the engine would engage the clutch anyways then the engine can keep the wheels spinning. This is part of the reason why I originally told you to keep increasing the throttle to see if you could keep the engine running. Once the engine gets going a bit then you can tell if the clutch keeps sticking and the engine wont idle. Its something that just takes time to figure out what to look for. Its kinda hard to describe over a forum.