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toyolien

Monster Beetle Questions / Help please.

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Does the old Monster Beetle have the same Problem?

 

I habe a Blackfoot and a Monster Beetle and neither of them shows any Problems....

But i was always afraid to get the Hex Bones round during driving.

I use Silvercans or Sport Tuned Motors in them. 

 

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It would take a lot wear to get them 'round' .You will get wear on the very outer edges if they are dropped too low .  I only ever run hex's in my vintages , and if set up right they should have a long life , which usually involves stopping the rear arms dropping too low by fitting a spacer of around 3mm inside the rear damper .

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It happens on all of them - it’s the this metal sideS of the gearbox that pushes out and thus reduces the contact of the 3 small cogs on the big cog 

JJ

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3 minutes ago, slimleeroy said:

They work perfectly  No need for expensive ball diff

@slimleeroy Why do so many people have issues? Is it down to how they are assembled?

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9 hours ago, toyolien said:

@slimleeroy Why do so many people have issues? Is it down to how they are assembled?

You have to separate the problems! 

Driveshafts is one thing, the differential the second. 

I still have my Subaru Brat converted to a beetle shell since 1983. I put a Frog diff in it. The first times were flawless, but at some point and wear you got the "clicking" noise from the diff, when the crown gears started to jump over the 3 bevel gears. (hope the term is correct). Then you had to shim the side to side play to get rid of it. But shimming and reinforcing with plates outside is not the best solution. You put a lot of stress on the ball bearings during every acceleration, creating friction and wear. Nevertheless my Subaru is o.k. with that and not too hot motors. 

The driveshafts were rounded someday too, especially on my friends Frog, which got a Dynatech01R back in the day and was fu… fast on a mechanical Speed Control. Crazy times. But he rounded some sets of hex shafts. I was lucky to get some replacements from Parma back in the day, which are made from plastics and don´t have the metal to metal contact. They are still fine after all these years, but also not available anymore.

But I have to admit, with a Sport tuned or something in that range, the hexes are o.k., if maintained regularly and greased with AW grease or something heavy. My nephew runs his Monsterbeetle this way since 2 years, and I didn´t have to repair the shafts yet. (Original release MB).

My Rere is still to be build, but a friend has one for his son, too: I had to shim it after 2 batteries with a Cup Machine, the material of the metal gears is so much weaker than back in the old days, like cheese, and the Side plates ar somewhat not as stiff as the old ones. A shame for Tamiya, to bring These kits back with that flaws. Nothing an experienced modeller can´t fix, but what about all the starters in the hobby?

Best and chaepest fix for the diff still is "old frogshot method" and screwing the outdrives together,

best fix for the driveshafts is using the Rere Frog or MB ones and adjusting your shock to the correct Extended length, and use weaker springs in rear. The original springs are way to stiff and bouncing all the time, the Rere´s are too long and putting a constant stress on the trailing arms in combination with the too long damper.

And think of that: with a weak spring the trailing arm will move before it flexes, so the drive shaft is diving in the outdrive and cannot pop out anymore...

The ORV´s are so cool fun runners with Retro Charme, when they are fixed and working. Too sad, that Tamiya didn´t bring us some updates / Hopups on the known Problems. Cardans were meant nicely, but didn´t cover all problems...

 

Kind regards,

Matthias

 

 

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18 hours ago, slimleeroy said:

They work perfectly  No need for expensive ball diff

What works perfectly?

its a known and well documented issue with that gearbox 

there is flex in the sidewalls and this allows the diff to separate a little 

the clicking is the diff cogs skipping 

they are metal so it’s not a massive issue - just doesnt sound good 

JJ

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1 hour ago, Problemchild said:

What works perfectly?

its a known and well documented issue with that gearbox 

there is flex in the sidewalls and this allows the diff to separate a little 

the clicking is the diff cogs skipping 

they are metal so it’s not a massive issue - just doesnt sound good 

JJ

I second that. It's been a wellknown problem for 36+ years, so claiming it works perfectly doesn't at all reflect facts and common experience of the vast majority.

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On 5/20/2020 at 7:39 AM, slimleeroy said:

They work perfectly  No need for expensive ball diff

 

16 hours ago, Problemchild said:

What works perfectly?

its a known and well documented issue with that gearbox 

there is flex in the sidewalls and this allows the diff to separate a little 

the clicking is the diff cogs skipping 

they are metal so it’s not a massive issue - just doesnt sound good 

JJ

Pretty sure @slimleeroy is referring to @mheald‘s bracing system that works perfectly, not the actual gearbox

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19 minutes ago, mtbkym01 said:

 

Pretty sure @slimleeroy is referring to @mheald‘s bracing system that works perfectly, not the actual gearbox

I am yes. The bracing system works superb. The gearbox without it, sadly does not. I can post a picture if people want to see it installed

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17 hours ago, Problemchild said:

What works perfectly?

its a known and well documented issue with that gearbox 

there is flex in the sidewalls and this allows the diff to separate a little 

the clicking is the diff cogs skipping 

they are metal so it’s not a massive issue - just doesnt sound good 

JJ

The bracing works perfectly. The stock gearbox is rubbish

 

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8 hours ago, slimleeroy said:

The bracing works perfectly. The stock gearbox is rubbish

 

 

On 5/20/2020 at 5:24 PM, Problemchild said:

What works perfectly?

its a known and well documented issue with that gearbox 

there is flex in the sidewalls and this allows the diff to separate a little 

the clicking is the diff cogs skipping 

they are metal so it’s not a massive issue - just doesnt sound good 

JJ

There was no need to get so defensive mate. I am fully aware of tamiya's terrible design and it's follies

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On 5/19/2020 at 6:55 PM, Problemchild said:

It happens on all of them - it’s the this metal sideS of the gearbox that pushes out and thus reduces the contact of the 3 small cogs on the big cog 

JJ

 

On 5/19/2020 at 11:09 PM, slimleeroy said:

They work perfectly  No need for expensive ball diff

 Not defensive at all - just explaining 

your message followed on from my message so unless quoting, forum protocol means you are referring to the post above 

otherwise no one knows what your message is in response to 

hence why this message was asking if it was because people were assembling the gearboxes incorrectly

On 5/19/2020 at 11:13 PM, toyolien said:

@slimleeroy Why do so many people have issues? Is it down to how they are assembled?

 

Sorry if I offended - defo not defensive though 

JJ

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6 minutes ago, Problemchild said:

 

 Not defensive at all - just explaining 

your message followed on from my message so unless quoting, forum protocol means you are referring to the post above 

otherwise no one knows what your message is in response to 

hence why this message was asking if it was because people were assembling the gearboxes incorrectly

 

Sorry if I offended - defo not defensive though 

JJ

Sorry mate, thanks for explaining. ☺️. I'm a bit of a newbie to this. At least we both agree that tamiya's orv gearbox is sh!te lol

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