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Hi Guys! 

My Mrs has bought me the bruiser and high lift for my Birthday. 

While I am currently waiting for the clock to tick and days to pass nearer to my birthday, I have made a list for both chassis for relevant upgrades.

The only thing I am unsure about is selecting the right motor? I am trying to stick to Tamiya Motors (Brushed) but open for suggestions

Which Tamiya motor would you guys suggest would give me adequate power and torque suitable for the chassis? I will be running 2S Lipos 

The plan for the Bruiser and High Lift is to turn them into "OK" trail trucks (I know they're aren't the best and that there are better trucks) 

Here are the motors I have in mind:

  • Tamiya Torque Tuned 25T Motor: 54358
  • Tamiya TR Torque Tuned 33T Motor: 56526
  • Tamiya CR Tuned 35T Motor: 54114

 

Many Thanks! 

 

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this is what i run in my bruiser the cr tuned

the tr tuned one is more for the 1/14 trucks with i do run n both my trucks

i would think about doing a upfront servo instead of the awful  kit location

watch this guys videos he is the reason for me buying a bruiser 

IMG_20160214_131914.thumb.jpg.408fdcb756f1f0f129182e4f1b5b7c19.jpg

 

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I use the kit silver can in my hi lift. I've also got a custom made 6x6 log truck with a silver can and a 1/14 3 speed gearbox in it, and that pulls fine with a load of wood on the back and a fully loaded trailer.....

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Hi. What run times are you getting in your high lifts? My Hilux with the stock motor and Hobbywing 1060 only gets 10 minutes max. And it can't even climb a mound of gravel, in any gear. I'm trying to figure out if High Lifts have inherently short run times because of their weight and/or complicated transmission and/or the twin servos, or if suggested in another thread, a defective motor or esc is causing it.

BTW, same batteries seem fine on my CC02. 20-25 minutes. 

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On 11/4/2023 at 12:48 PM, makinao said:

defective motor or esc

Go hunting for excessive heat. 

If the battery (assume good & fully charged) is indeed fully discharging in 10mins, that’s a fair bit of energy to dissipate... something will be getting real hot. 

Might not even be electrical, is every moving part rolling smoothly without obstruction? 

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I second Willy here.  Disconnect the driveshafts and spin the axles independently to see if one feels like it has more resistance than the other.  Maybe also disconnect the shift servo and see if the runtime improves.  

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Sad news. I was playing with my nieces when it lost drive. It turns out the BC14 bevel gear shaft in both differentials broke. I'm not sure if it started breaking before or exactly when it lost drive. I'm hoping my local Tamiya store has parts, or at least a substitute. If not, the only place I could find in the net is in Germany, and one set with a ring gear costs 30 euros without shipping yet. :(

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