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Hi Guys! 

 

HISTORY: So the Tamiya DT01 or more specifically Fighter Buggy RX was my first and only ever Tamiya back in the day (so it holds a lot of sentimental value). My goal is to create the ultimate version of the chassis to make it a little more capable, modern and just generally improve it. 

 

THE PLAN: At its current state, my Fighter Buggy RC is bone stock and I plan to improve it with general bolt on parts, some 3D printed ones and also some hand made parts too using a 2.5mm carbon sheet. 

Here is my plan for the build down to the detail;

ELECTRONICS: 

  • Servo: Yeah Racing Hackgear Low Profile (YE-0033BU) 
  • ESC: Tamiya TBLE02 (45057) or Quicrun 1060 
  • Motor: Tamiya Torque Tuned 25T / Dirt Tuned 27T (what would be better?) 
  • Pinion: 17T or 19T ? (What do we think would be best for the selected motor and ESC to not over heat?)

HARDWARE:

  • Carbon Fibre 2.5mm plate: For front shock tower support brace & upper chassis with permanent servo mount 
  •  Set of blue Anodised screws (where possible) 
  •  Set of blue ball connectors (for shock mounting) 
  •  Set of blue turnbuckles (for steering linkages & servo link) 
  •  Alloy threaded link pipe (for rear shock tower support brace) 

WHEELS:
Front Tires: Tamiya Rib-Spike 2WD (54896)
Rear Tires: Tamiya Square Spike (53084) 

UPGRADES:

  •  Full set of ball bearings: Metal Sealed 
  •  Front alloy shocks 75mm blue (using kit springs) 300cst oil
  •  Rear alloy shocks 95mm blue (using kit springs) 200cst oil 
  •  3D printed double wishbone A arms (Multijet Plastic PA12) 
  •  3D printed double wishbone shock tower (Multijet Plastic PA12) 
  •  3D printed double wishbone C hubs (Multijet Plastic PA12) 
  •  Front A Arms: Heatshrink mod 
  •  Jazzrider alloy uprights / steering arms blue 
  •  T4 Works Alloy blue motor cover 

 

My biggest concerns are the 3D printed parts and the material selected, will it be durable enough? I plan on using the DT01 as a light runner on and off track, anyone with 3D printed experience can verify its durablility? Or add anything to the build that I may have missed? 

Many Thanks,

 

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I love all things DT-01 so I will definitely be following your progress. 

I do prefer rubber sealed bearings but that is just me, I got it into my head that the seals were superior to metal shielded but again, that could be wrong.

The carbon top plate will be lovely to see, I believe there has been an example of this being done in the past and it looked great. Carbon is quite difficult to work with as you need to get the cuts really precise to avoid fraying the fibres.

Interesting to see that you have added a rear shock mount brace. I have always thought this was a robust part of the design. Have you had problems on your chassis?

Looks like you have really given this some thought so maybe start a build thread, can’t wait to see some pictures.

 

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5 minutes ago, Scouser said:

I do prefer rubber sealed bearings but that is just me, I got it into my head that the seals were superior to metal shielded but again, that could be wrong.

 

Most of the so called rubber shielded bearings on eBay and online stores available cheaply are actually plastic covers, not rubber. Typically these fall off if subjected to a small amount of abuse. Not sure they are any better than the steel cover bearings. If nothing else they look fancier. 
 

 

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Hi Syrekz,

Your plan sounds intriguing. Things I'd address first:

- Double wishbone front suspension: I got 3D printed arms from a TC member back then, they still hold up well. While you're at it, design them with metal pins and bushings in mind for mounting them to the chassis. Instead of the heat shrink mod.

- New steering linkage: The stock steering is sloppy and would benefit from a newly designed linkage and ball raced steering boss that clears the stock front shock tower. If you're doing 3D printing anyway, you can go crazy like try and improve the servo location.

- Front shock tower and front body mount.

 

For hot motors, use the 17 T pinion.

If using Mad Bull wheels, create a motor mount adaptor that allows using a 15 T pinion.

 

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9 hours ago, Scouser said:

I love all things DT-01 so I will definitely be following your progress. 

I do prefer rubber sealed bearings but that is just me, I got it into my head that the seals were superior to metal shielded but again, that could be wrong.

The carbon top plate will be lovely to see, I believe there has been an example of this being done in the past and it looked great. Carbon is quite difficult to work with as you need to get the cuts really precise to avoid fraying the fibres.

Interesting to see that you have added a rear shock mount brace. I have always thought this was a robust part of the design. Have you had problems on your chassis?

Looks like you have really given this some thought so maybe start a build thread, can’t wait to see some pictures.

 

Are there any noticeable differences between the rubber sealed vs metal sealed? 

When I was doing some research into the planning of the build, I did see some upper chassis created or half upper chassis for a more rigid servo mounting location (I love seeing custom builds) 

I haven't had problems with mine, but I have seen a few around with some damages to the plastic (discolour in plastic stress marks) so just to be safe with the build 

Yes, I think Ive spent a few days planning everything so I can buy all the parts needed and start the build (I will be doing a thread build on this project and also on YouTube too) 

 

Also, minor update because of the 3D printed parts and not being sure about the (MJF PA12) material durability I decided to go with the Dirt Tuned motor as its about the same speed as a standard silver can but with better off road performance (which I plan to run this on mixed surfaces) 

Now I have uncertainty about selecting the right pinion for the motor / esc to not overheat? 17T or 19T? What do we think? 

Also anyone have any experience with selecting the right shock oil weight for the DT01? At current I am just guessing what might be good? 

 

S

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To be honest, I have always had rubber sealed bearings so I couldn’t give a comparison. I think the benefit is to do with the protection of the bearing innards. I will have a google and see if there are any decent threads anywhere on the matter.

I stuck with a 17t steel pinion in the Mad Bull as I thought it would be better for the big tyres. For the Fighter Buggy RX I would get both options and see which works best on the surfaces you run. 

Shock oil is probably going to be quite light as it isn’t a heavy buggy. Again, surface will be the deciding factor but I would maybe start at 20wt and go from there. That’s just me though, I like my buggy’s to be quite soft on the shocks.

Look forward to the videos.

 

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Is the double wishbone design your own of the one that's on thingiverse?

I had a set of the thingiverse ones printed in PETG for my Mad Bull/RC hybrid and it took quite a beating before I broke it after a suspected rock strike. For light running with the buggy version of the chassis and in that material (which is superior to PETG) it should be just fine. There are a few areas of the design that could do with improving IMO and mine broke exactly where I expected it to but I have no knowledge of 3D software so I couldn't do much to correct it.


wAgAnYH.jpg

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18 hours ago, nowinaminute said:

Is the double wishbone design your own of the one that's on thingiverse?

I had a set of the thingiverse ones printed in PETG for my Mad Bull/RC hybrid and it took quite a beating before I broke it after a suspected rock strike. For light running with the buggy version of the chassis and in that material (which is superior to PETG) it should be just fine. There are a few areas of the design that could do with improving IMO and mine broke exactly where I expected it to but I have no knowledge of 3D software so I couldn't do much to correct it.


wAgAnYH.jpg

 

Yes, the design is from thingsverse although If I can modify the front shock tower I would be super happy as it looks like its the weakest from all the pieces. I would love to print it from shapeways in aluminium but that alone would set me back a bit over what I am willing to spend on a single part :rolleyes:.

Thank you for letting me know, wasn't too sure on 3D printed material and their durability but you adventure with it puts my mind at easy a little bit, especially since the material I have chosen as you say is superior and with standard buggy wheels there should be far less strain on the parts. 

How did you find installing of the parts? Any problems or extra hardware needed? 

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11 hours ago, xSyReKzZ said:

 

Yes, the design is from thingsverse although If I can modify the front shock tower I would be super happy as it looks like its the weakest from all the pieces. I would love to print it from shapeways in aluminium but that alone would set me back a bit over what I am willing to spend on a single part :rolleyes:.

Thank you for letting me know, wasn't too sure on 3D printed material and their durability but you adventure with it puts my mind at easy a little bit, especially since the material I have chosen as you say is superior and with standard buggy wheels there should be far less strain on the parts. 

How did you find installing of the parts? Any problems or extra hardware needed? 

They were quite easy to fit, integrated with the stock chassis nicely. I just used some washer head screws to fix the shock tower then for links I used m3 threaded rod and some ball connectors.

It broke where the the plastic is needlessly thin, the upper part of the shock tower only attaches with a small sliver of plastic for much of it's width:

ZyJ2PIc.jpg

The area could easily be re-enforced, there's room to add extra material for sure. The flat part that sits on the chassis could be made to get wider as it you get closer to the tower. I'm literally useless at 3d software though sadly.

AAVNYLp.jpg

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Nowinaminute, thanks for posting your pics and your opinion about these arms.

 

I found the link to the earlier DT-01 double wishbone front suspension Thread, along with Manny's design. His arms are BEEFY and sturdy enough for regular use, I can vouch for that.

 

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