Wiring for ESC/Motor - AWG rating question

[dc-arena 81]

I am going to try out soldering for a motor/ESC combo, and I was wondering what AWG (I assume can also be referred to as 'gauge'?) rating wire I should go for? Looking at Modelsport in the UK, this is rated at 12AWG, and has some positive reviews.

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/core-rc-12awg-silicone-wire-1-metre-black-/rc-car-products/32063

 

Initially it will be for a brushless motor wire, with bullets on the other end to hook up to a Tamiya ESC. Later, I'll be doing my XV01 which requires lenthy wiring which will probably require me doing a custom setup - this will probably be a Hobbywing brushless combo setup or something, but I've not fully decided yet.

 

So.. would 12AWG be suitable?

Thanks!!

[CoolHands 816]

14 would be good in my opinion. Even 16. 12 is harder to solder etc and if you’re not racing, unlikely to need it.

[KEV THE REV 2307]

I bought 16 AWG silicone wire from component shop on eBay £2.50 inc post for 1metre each of red & black wire

[Juggular 4961]

For our purposes, 14 gauge should be plenty.  

Even at 2 feet, 14 gauge can deliver 30 amp.  (13.5t motor would use 2 amp steady, 5 amp burst)  Since you'd need less than 2 feet, 14 gauge can deliver more than 30 amp. (because there is less material for electrons to go through). Maybe like 40 amp at 9 inches.  This is why wire is less of a problem than 1Amp Tamiya battery connector.  (It can handle 2 amp, though it's not designed for it)  

However, if you are using 3S, 4.5 turn motor(9000kv) on XV01, you might want 12 gauge wire.   Most of us mere mortals won't run motors at 100,000 RPM, so 14 gauge should be more than enough.  

 

Below is a photo of 12 gauge not really fitting into a XT60 connector.  I had to trim about 30% of strands to make the other 70% go into the hole.  (I had no choice because the battery came with 12 gauge)  

 

 

[TurnipJF 9190]

Agreed - 12 gauge is overkill for almost all 1/10 scale applications. I usually use 14 or 16. The lighter gauge is useful on cars with motor pods such as the majority of F1s where an overly-stiff wire can affect suspension behaviour. On cars where the motor doesn't need to move freely relative to the ESC, I use 14 gauge.

[dc-arena 81]

Ah, thanks everyone, that is incredibly helpful information!

Ignorant me assumed 12 gauge was the 'smaller' of the of range, hence why I chose it! Now I now it's like camera apertures and backwards

I think I'll go with 14 guage then.

Is a 100W soldering iron recommended for this type of wiring? Or would less do it? And, I am new to all this. The only I soldered was modifying a Gameboy Advance with a front-light years ago, which obviously has tiny wiring components!

 

Thanks!

[Juggular 4961]

60W would do it. 

Anything less will make you believe that you are terrible at soldering. (I thought that. But now that I have a 60w soldering iron, I think I'm rather good at it, thank you very much!)   I've got something cheap like this. There are dozens from different brands, but they are all similar.  I don't want anything more.   

https://www.amazon.co.uk/VicTsing-【Soldering-Soldering-Adjustable-Temperature-8-1/dp/B07QWLNHBD/ref=pd_sbs_60_7?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07QWLNHBD&pd_rd_r=569090bf-110f-4072-9d3c-4c98825a0aa5&pd_rd_w=bHm0U&pd_rd_wg=KSHyn&pf_rd_p=2773aa8e-42c5-4dbe-bda8-5cdf226aa078&pf_rd_r=JXA2NSNM0E4S19N2561F&psc=1&refRID=JXA2NSNM0E4S19N2561F

 

If you are going to keep the iron for a while, I'd recommend a tip tinner too. 

https://www.amazon.co.uk/Thermaltronics-TMT-TC-2-Tinner-0-8oz-Container/dp/B00NS4J6BY/ref=sr_1_1_sspa?dchild=1&keywords=tip+tinner&qid=1588321839&s=diy&sr=1-1-spons&psc=1&spLa=ZW5jcnlwdGVkUXVhbGlmaWVyPUEyMllJV09aVDdJVFVDJmVuY3J5cHRlZElkPUEwOTQyNDI3MkQ1S1BaRk5SRzFFTSZlbmNyeXB0ZWRBZElkPUEwNzExMTkxMVBBV1FEVjBCTU1GNyZ3aWRnZXROYW1lPXNwX2F0ZiZhY3Rpb249Y2xpY2tSZWRpcmVjdCZkb05vdExvZ0NsaWNrPXRydWU=

 

When you are done using the iron, stick the hot iron into a tinner like this.  It will melt and coat the tip with tin.  I thought tips would not go cruddy after several uses, but if you have a tip tinner, the tip would stay useful for several years.  

Below is what my soldering iron looks like after attaching XT60 connectors to about 20 ESCs, 7-8 batteries and a few motors in about 2 years.  I don't know where the extra tips are and I don't care, because I don't need to replace this one tip.  

 

[dc-arena 81]

Perfect, thanks very much!

I think I'll order one of those helping hand things too, they look... helpful!

[dc-arena 81]

@Juggular What about solder wire? Something like this?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TABIGER-Solder-Rosin-97Sn-2Rosin-0-7Cu-0-3Ag-0-8mm/dp/B07G9T17TQ/ref=pd_bxgy_img_3/258-6059105-8743454?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07G9T17TQ&pd_rd_r=62d96f52-b19f-40e1-84e3-fa59aba0a6c4&pd_rd_w=DSu5s&pd_rd_wg=nCGi7&pf_rd_p=106f838b-b7d1-46e9-83e0-f70facc857bf&pf_rd_r=YCWRECE4CJPG7XVB6Y52&psc=1&refRID=YCWRECE4CJPG7XVB6Y52

 

Could probably do with some nice wire cutters too, that can strip nicely etc!

Thanks!

[Nicadraus 6196]

For a lengthy wiring, I would recommend using 12-14awg especially when racing. Wires heat up and beefier wire gauge is  important. Don't use 16 or higher. 12 doesn't have an issue when soldering with deans plug and bullet connectors. Use a 60w soldering iron when working with 12 and 14awg.

[Juggular 4961]

14 hours ago, dc-arena said:

@Juggular What about solder wire? Something like this?

https://www.amazon.co.uk/TABIGER-Solder-Rosin-97Sn-2Rosin-0-7Cu-0-3Ag-0-8mm/dp/B07G9T17TQ/ref=pd_bxgy_img_3/258-6059105-8743454?_encoding=UTF8&pd_rd_i=B07G9T17TQ&pd_rd_r=62d96f52-b19f-40e1-84e3-fa59aba0a6c4&pd_rd_w=DSu5s&pd_rd_wg=nCGi7&pf_rd_p=106f838b-b7d1-46e9-83e0-f70facc857bf&pf_rd_r=YCWRECE4CJPG7XVB6Y52&psc=1&refRID=YCWRECE4CJPG7XVB6Y52

 

Could probably do with some nice wire cutters too, that can strip nicely etc!

Thanks!

Mine looks remarkably similar to that; 100 grams, 0.8mm lead-free with 2% flux, 0.3% silver.  

I use a side cutter that's designed for plastic models, just because I have several of them.  I have a wire stripper too, but it tends to cut a couple strands.  Few strands cut won't make a difference, but I've been using a hobby knife.  

 

[dc-arena 81]

Thanks. Would you recommend a flux pen? Sounds like it might be handy for beginners!

[martinjpayne 273]

For flux, just get a bottle of this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/MG-Chemicals-Corrosive-Conductive-residue/dp/B005DNR01Q/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=MG+Chemicals+Liquid+Rosin+Flux%2C+Non+Corrosive+and+Non+Conductive+residue%2C+125+ml+Bottle&qid=1588424029&sr=8-1

[martinjpayne 273]

Oh, and better to get 60/40 tin/lead solder than lead free... it's easier to work with. Buy a recognised brand from a reputable seller like Farnell, not some cheap rubbish from China.

[dc-arena 81]

2 hours ago, martinjpayne said:

For flux, just get a bottle of this:

https://www.amazon.co.uk/MG-Chemicals-Corrosive-Conductive-residue/dp/B005DNR01Q/ref=sr_1_1?dchild=1&keywords=MG+Chemicals+Liquid+Rosin+Flux%2C+Non+Corrosive+and+Non+Conductive+residue%2C+125+ml+Bottle&qid=1588424029&sr=8-1

How do you apply that? Dip the wire in it?

[martinjpayne 273]

Decant some into a dropper bottle with a needle tip. You’ll only need a single drop onto the bare wire before you tin it, and another drop when you make the joint to help the solder flow.

[dc-arena 81]

15 minutes ago, martinjpayne said:

Decant some into a dropper bottle with a needle tip. You’ll only need a single drop onto the bare wire before you tin it, and another drop when you make the joint to help the solder flow.

Ah like one of these..

Besttse 50ml Dispenser Bottle for Rosin Solder Soldering Liquid Flux with 1 Needle https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07M8BDG53/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_api_i_SGzREbDSM1ZDX

[dablk 7]

Sorry To Hijack Dc-Arena.

Would anyone be able to point me towards the bullet connectors themselves (male and female with covers) to make an extension lead.  I'm also in the XV-01 cable not long enough camp and am still swapping esc about so don't want to chop up my Tamiya one just yet. 

 

Many Thanks

Chris