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Manual says NOT to glue tires on Monster Beetle?

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I'm just about to start a Monster Beetle build and whilst thumbing through the manual this evening, i noticed that it specifically says not to glue the tires onto the rims. Is there a reason for this on this particular kit? I've always glued tires. Thanks.

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Its perhaps due to the size of them and the gearing or because they tested it and decided that the wheels didn't slip in the tyres. I don't know they seem to be good reasons and the sounded good when I thought of them.

regards Doc

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The Blackfoot is the same, I have a 17.5 brushless in that and hasn’t caused any problems. I’ve never had them come off.


It’s thought it helps prevent the old Diff issues. Just think of not gluing them as a ghetto slip diff at the wheels 😂
 

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Yeah it's been there from back in the day. AFAIK it's to help absorb the stress on the drivetrain. Wheels slip inside the tires instead of the weak differential ripping itself to bits. I just ran mine as a basher so it didn't matter much... though I guess all MBs are bashers right? If you upgrade to the Thorp or MP diff you could probably get away with gluing.

 

aye, what Re-Bugged said, works as a slip diff

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Great. Thanks for the replies. I thought as much. I will be using an mip diff and a 24t UGT motor so we'll see how it goes unglued. Build thread coming soon👍

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Not glueing adds a “clutch” should you try and put too much power through the drive train 

 

JJ

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I thought it was to avoid any possible chance of infinite improbability drive occuring. :D

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Is glueing the tires recommended for other kits, like buggies and such?

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50 minutes ago, A-Baum said:

Is glueing the tires recommended for other kits, like buggies and such?

Wheels like the hornet/ brat  are , bead locks ,anyway , so never bothered with those.

Depends on the power and use. All my race cars are glued, my brushless bashers are glued, not bothered with the bullhead or lunchbox's.

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very intresting, i learn something new.

never had wheels that didn't need gluing or they have been the beadlocks.

now to find an easier better way to balance the darn things, there's only 15 different ways to do it and they all take       F     O     R     E     V     E    R......................

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3 hours ago, Re-Bugged said:

a ghetto slip diff at the wheels

lol... very well put.  

54 minutes ago, ACCEL said:

now to find an easier better way to balance the darn things

A fellow balancer!  

I don't do it for every car, but I can't stand wobbly or unbalanced tires.  

I think one wheel on my Midnight Pumpkin has like 2 nuts to balance.  

 

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2 hours ago, ACCEL said:

now to find an easier better way to balance the darn things,

Never given balancing a thought tbh, 

Does it make a difference to off road cars, or is it just on road?

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6 hours ago, Juggular said:

lol... very well put.  

A fellow balancer!  

I don't do it for every car, but I can't stand wobbly or unbalanced tires.  

I think one wheel on my Midnight Pumpkin has like 2 nuts to balance.  

 

Juggualar said two nuts:lol: and something about a midnight pumpin:ph34r:..................................................................:blink:

i've used sticking putty, lead tape, RTV silicone, melted wax, cut penny's in small bits and glue, drill holes, tape inside the wheel, there's a couple other ways.

but i dig all the different wheels and tires and fitting them and assembling them, but dread the balancing act, i ain't no trappese artist.

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5 hours ago, Wooders28 said:

Never given balancing a thought tbh, 

Does it make a difference to off road cars, or is it just on road?

I found that balancing the wheels on my race buggies made the car feel a lot smoother. I dunno if it was all in my head or not but it made me happy to do it so I kept on doing it. 

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Injection molding isn't really even for wheels and tires.  How they cooled after could change the shape.  I rotate the wheel and seat the tire differently, or even swap the tire with another wheel.  Sometimes that helps, sometimes not. Then I add weights to balance.  

Same for on or off-road.  At least it's easier to use balance on-road wheels.  On-road tires are light enough for my prop balancer.  These things have fairly strong magnets on both sides. So it can rotate without friction.  This M-06 wheel rotates smoothly without wobbling.  But it still has a clear weight bias.  If it's un-powered wheel, you can simply rotate it to see if it always stops at the same spot.  Putting a dot with a market would help. You can erase it with rubbing alcohol.  For powered wheel, you can do it after taking the dog bone off.  

You mark the top, and tape a nut or a washer on the inside to see if that fixed it.  And then hot-glue or something. (Don't forget the weight of the glue)  

It's a small difference to us humans.  But for a car that weighs 800 grams?  It's a big deal.  Which is why it runs smoother after balancing tires.  

l64XlQB.jpg

 

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Probably to give a rudimentary clutch effect as others have said, especially with this notoriously...notorious transmission. It shouldn't cause any issues unless one tire happens to end up gripping the rim better than the other one and then you might end up going in circles. 

I learnt that the hard way after stressing over a particular rc for weeks because it was so "tail happy" and kept spinning out. Then I realised one wheel span loosely in the tire but the other one was very hard to move. Doh!

Usually they are very equal though so you just get a kind of slipper clutch effect.

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1 hour ago, Juggular said:

Injection molding isn't really even for wheels and tires.  How they cooled after could change the shape.  I rotate the wheel and seat the tire differently, or even swap the tire with another wheel.  Sometimes that helps, sometimes not. Then I add weights to balance.  

Same for on or off-road.  At least it's easier to use balance on-road wheels.  On-road tires are light enough for my prop balancer.  These things have fairly strong magnets on both sides. So it can rotate without friction.  This M-06 wheel rotates smoothly without wobbling.  But it still has a clear weight bias.  If it's un-powered wheel, you can simply rotate it to see if it always stops at the same spot.  Putting a dot with a market would help. You can erase it with rubbing alcohol.  For powered wheel, you can do it after taking the dog bone off.  

You mark the top, and tape a nut or a washer on the inside to see if that fixed it.  And then hot-glue or something. (Don't forget the weight of the glue)  

It's a small difference to us humans.  But for a car that weighs 800 grams?  It's a big deal.  Which is why it runs smoother after balancing tires.  

l64XlQB.jpg

 

That's pretty much the way I used to do it although I used lead balancing tape intended for use on golf clubs and tennis racquets because it's easy to cut into small pieces and it's self adhesive so no messing around with hot glue etc. 

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