Mid-Storm, just another Dyna.

[Collin 2151]

Since a while I was thinking about turning around the transmission for mid motor Dyna Storm. Its cool because Dyna and TR-15T are so modular. Also fella @Ann3x already did great work with his TR-15T e-conversion and the design of a tested motor/gearbox-plate.

So lets see where this will lead too. Definitly a question is about the space for the motor and the battery. Doing the whole chassis longer and using Dyna Blaster rear suspension arms? Need for a different shell or cutting a repro DS shell? Anyway I will just start and see where it ends. Hopefully not in the bin : )

 

[Collin 2151]

About LiPo units. Are they the one called "Shorty" which you simply plug together to place it on different spots on the chassis?

Anyone can recommend some? Dunnot know about them...

Do anyone know which are the one used on this TRF211?
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/tamiya/setuptrf201x/TRF201XM_LeeMartin_Chico2013092225/

Protec 100c Thanks god I can read setting sheets LOL

 

Thanks mates!

[ThunderDragonCy 9197]

1 hour ago, Collin said:

About LiPo units. Are they the one called "Shorty" which you simply plug together to place it on different spots on the chassis?

Anyone can recommend some? Dunnot know about them...

Do anyone know which are the one used on this TRF211?
http://site.petitrc.com/setup/tamiya/setuptrf201x/TRF201XM_LeeMartin_Chico2013092225/

Protec 100c Thanks god I can read setting sheets LOL

 

Thanks mates!

They aren't shorty packs, the ones you want are saddle pack. They consist i think, of 2 small 1S wired in series. Shorty packs are a single pack. 

This is saddle

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/index.php?CategoryID=9920&SubCategoryID=992025&MSAttributeID[32]=840&MSAttributeID[30]=598&MSAttributeID[33]=607

This is shorty

https://www.modelsport.co.uk/centro-2s-5000mah-7-4v-100c-hard-case-shorty-lipo-battery/rc-car-products/422729

[Collin 2151]

Ah jep, got the difference now. Mostly they have the size of 69.5x47x25mm. Good,... so lets go on.

[ruebiracer 1430]

Ah Tom, next project, cool!

Just use a shorty Lipo, still plenty of power today, and you can use the same chassis length probably! Interesting, how much you have to cut off the body to hide the motor under it. Will follow your thread for sure!

By the way: Did aircooled state you the price for the bulkhead?

Have a nice evening,

Matthias

[Collin 2151]

1 hour ago, ruebiracer said:

Ah Tom, next project, cool!

Just use a shorty Lipo, still plenty of power today, and you can use the same chassis length probably! Interesting, how much you have to cut off the body to hide the motor under it. Will follow your thread for sure!

By the way: Did aircooled state you the price for the bulkhead?

Have a nice evening,

Matthias

Jep, there are still so many possibilities just within the Dyna-sty.

Please send me a link of any of those shory LiPo. Have a look on hobbyking website, they have propper measurments listed. https://hobbyking.com/de_de/batteries-chargers/batteries/lipo.html

The shortys I have looked at where all to long with around 95mm or something. Two single packs togehter, as linked to the racing TRF211 is the way to go (at least I think : ).

Right now I want to find a way how to lock the gearbox/motor unit to the upper deck. As the gearbox is turned around, I dont have the luxory metal inserts with the m3 thread inside. But I have already an idear.

No, he didnt mentioned anything and I have a certain feeling he wouldnt tell us : D

[Collin 2151]

Basicly my current idear is to modifie the gearbox-plate and the motor-plate. I need to 3d model some kind of connector between upper deck and those plates.
Maybe I can do some all-in-one piece which replaces the red columns as well. Or just two simle and small connectors, all screwed together. Should be as much as needet but not more than necessary.

[ThunderDragonCy 9197]

Good mockup! I am a big fan of Cardboard Aided Engineering 😉 With all those holes nearby in the top deck it looks like a nicely anchored small bulkhead on top of the deck, with lateral screws into it through the plate would be neat and solid. In my opinion i would leave the aluminium standoffs. Figure out a way to run you new bulkhead over the top of them and tie them into the whole rear end structure. Nice and stiff. 

[bjorklo 1620]

Very cool project, I like it allot 👍🏼. 

Looking forward to seeing how this turns out...  

But will not the car be reversing all the time now 🤪🤪🤪?

[Collin 2151]

56 minutes ago, bjorklo said:

But will not the car be reversing all the time now 🤪🤪🤪?

Gosh. You are right.

 

@ThunderDragonCy You are right too. The old mounts of the upper deck simply cry for be used with a bulkhead. I will go this way.

[ruebiracer 1430]

Hi Tom,

my shorty Comes in also 95/45/25mm. I guess this is quite common, for the normal height ones. Nowadays there are some low center of gravity ones (LCG),

that are flatter. My initial thought was running the shorty lengthwise as original Dyna Storm with a low profile servo. But I was not in the near of my Dyna to check if it would work lengthwise. From your first pics, you want to run the battery parallel to the motor, Right? Could be tricky with the body height on the side pods.

My shorties are some LRP Antix HV ones, 4200mAh, which I use for my Sand Scorcher.

https://www.google.de/search?sxsrf=ALeKk018-UI2zwQVkjBBh2hK2khe4jpirw%3A1588496884433&source=hp&ei=9ImuXtmbGMzeavOsj_AL&q=lrp+antix+4200&oq=lrp+antix+4200&gs_lcp=CgZwc3ktYWIQAzIFCAAQzQI6BwgjEOoCECc6AggAOgUIABCDAToFCAAQywE6BggAEBYQHjoICAAQFhAKEB46BQghEKABUOQOWJ4sYPowaAJwAHgAgAGnAYgBmguSAQM4LjaYAQCgAQGqAQdnd3Mtd2l6sAEK&sclient=psy-ab&ved=0ahUKEwjZ5ZWErJfpAhVMrxoKHXPWA74Q4dUDCAg&uact=5

It Looks already so professional again with your cardboard models, I´m sure it will be a cool project! For running the motor in reverse, at least a sensorless motor with no static timing should be usable without any drawbacks. I never really tested a sensored motor in reverse direction…

[ruebiracer 1430]

Just had a weird idea: Using a belt instead of spur gear and pinion would bring the motor in the right direction again.

[Snappy1 1013]

I have converted a Losi JRX2 to mid motor in a similar way, I was able to drill the gearbox housing and flip the spur shaft so the motor wasn't reversing all the time, you could just run brushless with zero timing....

[Collin 2151]

Ah right, Motor Timing. Did not thought about it at all...

[Collin 2151]

44 minutes ago, ruebiracer said:

Just had a weird idea: Using a belt instead of spur gear and pinion would bring the motor in the right direction again.

Not a bad idear!

[ruebiracer 1430]

10 minutes ago, Collin said:

Not a bad idear!

as you do 3d Printing, this could be an Option. There are many belts around for touring cars, that might be usable... And a different gear cover wouldn´t be a problem for you!

[Collin 2151]

1 minute ago, ruebiracer said:

as you do 3d Printing, this could be an Option. There are many belts around for touring cars, that might be usable... And a different gear cover wouldn´t be a problem for you!

You are absolutely right. The idear is brilliant. Thanks for this hint!

[ThunderDragonCy 9197]

5 minutes ago, Collin said:

You are absolutely right. The idear is brilliant. Thanks for this hint!

The short belt from a TA06 is 54144. Or try and flip the motor around

[Collin 2151]

59 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

The short belt from a TA06 is 54144. Or try and flip the motor around

Honestly I thought about norm parts for stepper motors. They are very cheap because not Tamiya labeled. 6mm/200mm belt is about 4,50€ and pinion around 5€. The Spur gear needs to be manufactured because of the MDC clutch.

Which way around you mean to flip it? I think it would work to leave the gerbox as DS has it and placing the motor in "mid" position.
 

 

[ThunderDragonCy 9197]

Actually, you are right, if the gearbox is 3 gear then having the motor in the orientation you have it (pinion ob the right) is fine. Same as any other midmotor 3 gear. It won't run backwarss at all! 

[Collin 2151]

I am confused now. Left/Right was never my strongest ability

Anyway... just checked my TR-15T and rotation of the Brushless, all fine, just bolt it on and beeing happy.

[Collin 2151]

3 hours ago, Snappy1 said:

I have converted a Losi JRX2 to mid motor in a similar way, I was able to drill the gearbox housing and flip the spur shaft so the motor wasn't reversing all the time, you could just run brushless with zero timing....

In fact this is exactly what the Dyna Gearbox is designed for. The TR-15T nitro is a mid-motor. Same gearbox and internals, just a spacer inside and a different driveshaft.

This is why I like the Dynas. Lot of possibilities with not many parts you need. And still able to keep it like a original Tamiya could have been made.

[Collin 2151]

Progress for today:

Both (gearbox and motor-) plates drawen in cad. Very little changes need to be done. This is 27t pinion mounted. 

Well, the cardboard can be smaller and nice aligned with the correct gearcover-mount.

@ruebiracer I have to carefully study your posting about the Lipo later again. This is how it looks with 2 saddle packs along drive direction. Doesnt work with servo mount.

As you mentioned, I have to check the high clearande first.

Also this gives a bit of an idear about the shell, but honestly I dont care too much now. I am not afraid of buying a repro and cutting it. Somehow I love the cuttet buggy shells of nitros.



But something else popped in my mind. I compared the Nimrod Dyna Lightning chassis with the original one and its a bit longer and a bit broader. This is why it makes sense to use Dyna Blaster suspension arms on them.
I think I will do the same here. Stretching the cassis, so that LiPos will fit along drive direction and using long suspension arms. 


 

 

 

[ruebiracer 1430]

Ah, didn´t think that you flipped the motor, clever! And it seems like a plan you have! although I would put my vote on a understatement Dyna, which has same wheelbase/width and hides it´s secret as good as possible! It even seems, that there will be not so much to cut on the body!

But you´re the boss, anyway it will be cool!

If you run out of space, put one LCG shorty Lipo instead of your saddle Arrangement, this should work for sure. But maybe you even have the height for it. My shorties have some notches for the connectors, so with sidewise soldered cables they do not add to the battery height. (that´s why I chose them for the radio box in my Sand Scorcher...

 

[Collin 2151]

I dont know if I have a plan? Maybe more an idear which I follow step by step.

Its so hard, somehow I want every modified Dyna in every evolution. Short, long, rear, mid,... narf.

 

 

My so called DS211x does already have all measures of the original DS, so maybe time do go the Nimrod style way, just with mid-motor. I give a lot about your idears guys.