Collin 1952 Posted June 18, 2020 7 hours ago, GTodd said: Me, I think the best idea is to modify the slipper shaft to use the DF03 slipper which opens the door to all kinds of different size spur gears and pitches. Does someone have a Super Astute Rere slipper shaft and DS slipper shaft to compare? I guess I could look at a manual online !!!!š Nothing against this with DS shaft, you can get them easily and I have about 6 of them laying around. But for the Mid Motor, which needs the TR-15T shaft, they are so rare. I would "never" modifie them. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ruebiracer 1024 Posted June 18, 2020 8 hours ago, GTodd said: Me, I think the best idea is to modify the slipper shaft to use the DF03 slipper which opens the door to all kinds of different size spur gears and pitches. Does someone have a Super Astute Rere slipper shaft and DS slipper shaft to compare? I guess I could look at a manual online !!!!š Too difficult. And not making you happy plug and Play. Internal Ratio of SA is 2,59, whereas DS is 2,0! So the SA uses the DF03 spur with 82T, and comes from 23T to 27T from a Ratio of 9,33:1 to 7,86:1. This gives distances main shaft/pinion of 26,25 to 27,25mm and would mean, that in the DS you couldnĀ“t bring the gears to touch each other.. But I see your point. If I would convert to a DF03 slipper, modifiying the original DS shaft is the easiest way, as it can be seen in TomĀ“s link. ItĀ“s all Japanese, but you see the pictures of the assembly and theĀ modified main shaft. On the SA Tamiya did a design different to DF03 and TRF201, and uses one pressure plate with a big hex profile, the other one with 2 flat edges as on the DF03. TRF201 has even tinier dimensions than DF03. But the 120Z Ta04 spur gear used on the Japanese link is well chosen regarding gear options. Be aware, they even had to glue the 2 slipper pads onto the spur, as it does not have the "pad housing profile" of a real slipper spur gear. (By the way, SA Rere manual recommends gluing the pads with superglue onto the spur gear, too) But for me, the very well working slipper unit of the DS never let me down and is somehow a part of the identity of this car to me, so I would prefer the way adapting a smaller spur like 110-120Z onto the original clutch housing. It just has to be centered correctly, and then you can drill the 3 mounting holes and make the cutout for the Clutch housing. I checked yesterday on mine, and the centering is done by a Tiny edge in the original spurs, that fits exactly to the diametre of the outer housing Diameter. So ist not centered by the 3 screws, they have "Play" in the holes. Actually an Avante spur is pop on, it has exactly the diameter to be self centering. You could drill through 3 holes, make the cutout and get started. But itĀ“s simply to small. You wouldnĀ“t find big enough pinions, and if you would, you would end up in a far too long ratio for a buggy... So my backup plan would be: Take the TA04 spur gear and fit it on a lathe. turn in a Little edge of the same diameter as the original spur in the middle. If done, mountĀ it on the DS Clutch housing from behind and "pop" it on the centering. Mark or already drill out the 3 mounting holes. Then take off, screw the original and the new spur together with 3 longer screws, draw the cutout from the original spur onto the new one to cut it out afterwards. Done. Then you would have a DS spur with 120Z 0,4 module to mount on the original clutch. O.k., that would be just my way. Open to other techniques, but this would be functional without the need of a CNC cutting. Kind regards, Matthias Ā 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1952 Posted June 19, 2020 This is LOSI XXX Spur gear and pressure-disc. Pretty easy to fit simular to the Japan DF03 mod. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ruebiracer 1024 Posted June 19, 2020 Nice Tom, guess itĀ“s your TR15? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1952 Posted June 20, 2020 Dyna Blaster. So its the same as DS. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ruebiracer 1024 Posted June 20, 2020 Ommphh, should switching my brain on before commenting. Of course I meant your Dyna Blaster. Should normally know the difference between Nitro / Electric and Mid /rear engine. I placed my parts order at Seidel yesterday, and picked up some stuff for the upcoming build. I got the last Dyna Storm main shaft from Seidel. Wanted to order 2 as spares, but Shopping cart said only one available... At least I got the set of sleeved damper bodiesā¦Ā 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Muvro 22 Posted June 20, 2020 You're build is coming along nicely. I built a Dyna Storm mid last year, it's fantastic to drive. I am almost finished building a Dyna Blaster mid with carbon chassis instead of the tub.Ā Ā What did you do to the top layĀ shaft when yo flipped the box around?Ā 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1952 Posted June 20, 2020 Loving it! Great to see someone else did it too. Can you please post some detail pics? I am so curious how you did it. I use the TR-15T main shaft as Tamiya designed it. TC fella @bjorklo sent me a screenshot of a facebook member doing the DB mid conversion, I guess its you then. Have you seen my DB mod? Ā So great how this topic is accellerating. Thanks community! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ruebiracer 1024 Posted June 20, 2020 3 hours ago, Muvro said: You're build is coming along nicely. I built a Dyna Storm mid last year, it's fantastic to drive. I am almost finished building a Dyna Blaster mid with carbon chassis instead of the tub.Ā Ā What did you do to the top layĀ shaft when yo flipped the box around?Ā So cool, and even more satisfying to hear that it actually also drives good! Seems you already have sorted some springs for it? And nice tire choice. As Tom IĀ“d like to know everything about this beauty! 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1952 Posted June 20, 2020 Yey yey yey, shell down, shell down... 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1952 Posted June 20, 2020 Btw. i got a lot of LOSI springs with my XX-CR project today and they fit from the the diameter and lenght, but not the spring rate. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ruebiracer 1024 Posted June 20, 2020 And if we are already at the shell, where the badword you all get the Vintage Tamiya Racing Stickers from the time, when TRF was still just a spark. Guess I have still lying the yellow one on the wing from the good old days, but I think there were 2 or 3 Tamiya custom sheets around, that I remember. There was even a sticker set with a Dyna Storm from behind, that I still have on my aftermarket racing wing. Guess I have to post a pic here. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1952 Posted June 20, 2020 Haha, looks like a Comical DS. We could do a new one : ) A re-made for our own taste. Lot of neon colours i would suggest. 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ruebiracer 1024 Posted June 21, 2020 12 hours ago, Collin said: Haha, looks like a Comical DS. We could do a new one : ) A re-made for our own taste. Lot of neon colours i would suggest. Haha, and without the motor in the back. Obviously then it has to be: "Play it harder". Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ruebiracer 1024 Posted June 21, 2020 18 hours ago, Muvro said: You're build is coming along nicely. I built a Dyna Storm mid last year, it's fantastic to drive. I am almost finished building a Dyna Blaster mid with carbon chassis instead of the tub.Ā Ā What did you do to the top layĀ shaft when yo flipped the box around?Ā Another question Muvro: Seems like youĀ“re using Hicaps instead of the sleeved dampers? Any special reasons on this swap, as you are using the car for Vintage racing? Interested in your thoughts/findings. My original DS runs with converted sleeved dampers with volume adjustment. (Back in the days I found it a strange system to run without bladder) Kind regards, Matthias Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1952 Posted June 24, 2020 Uff... thread nearly moved on page 2 Ā For the agende: Getting more space between motor and gearbox-upperdeck-linkage... the brush-connector cable is pretty close to the fiber plate and I am not shure but carbon and electricity is not the big hit. Also I want to make the 3D printed part a bit slimmer. It's a bit clumsy in the design. And the gearbox cover, this will be the big notch I have to open, the motorplate needs minor changes for the mounts. Ā Ā Ā 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1952 Posted June 25, 2020 I fiddeled around with geard and the cover. Its so tight everything. So far I can say this one fits without grinding away material inside the gearcover. Original Spur up to 31T pinion. 94T Spur 21-27T (8,95-6,96) 89T Spur 21-29T (8,48-6,14) I think I will only concentrate on one spur gear (manufacturing) and this will be the 89T one. It simply fits better under the cover. Now its also very tight from the cover to the suspension mounts but I have a 3mm motorplate now and the final one will be 2.5mm. 0.5mm means a lot in this case. Every step now is so much with details and takes its time... not to complain with the first steps which made huge progress. Ā Ā 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ruebiracer 1024 Posted June 25, 2020 6 hours ago, Collin said: I fiddeled around with geard and the cover. Its so tight everything. So far I can say this one fits without grinding away material inside the gearcover. Original Spur up to 31T pinion. 94T Spur 21-27T (8,95-6,96) 89T Spur 21-29T (8,48-6,14) I think I will only concentrate on one spur gear (manufacturing) and this will be the 89T one. It simply fits better under the cover. Now its also very tight from the cover to the suspension mounts but I have a 3mm motorplate now and the final one will be 2.5mm. 0.5mm means a lot in this case. Every step now is so much with details and takes its time... not to complain with the first steps which made huge progress. Ā Ā Loving the effort and attention to details you put into this project Tom! I hope I can notice everything in the end, when all comes together!Ā Tomorrow IĀ“ll send the decals to you as promised, MCI did a great job. Kind regards, Matthias Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1952 Posted June 26, 2020 22 hours ago, ruebiracer said: Loving the effort and attention to details you put into this project Tom! I hope I can notice everything in the end, when all comes together!Ā Tomorrow IĀ“ll send the decals to you as promised, MCI did a great job. Kind regards, Matthias Can you post somepics of the decals please? I am so excited to see them 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ruebiracer 1024 Posted June 26, 2020 2 hours ago, Collin said: Can you post somepics of the decals please? I am so excited to see them Actually no Tom, yours are already on the way to you, but asĀ IĀ“m awake now 22h a day for my new born daughter, here you go with a shot of mine. I already started cutting some out. You can see the inverse printed sheet, and the second pic is my std. Dyna sheet with the darker blue. Yours has the lighter one as the wrenchdog logo. So, Maybe I should have gone slightly brighter, too. Wanted to match the Tamiya logo blue. WeĀ“ll see. Very cool Stickers you have designed, and finally I have som Tamiya Club logos for my cars! That was overdue, thanks for that, too! Think you will be pleased with the result by MCI, it makes me wanting to prepare the body already. (Although IĀ“ve no time and want to test the body on the chassis before starting to paint...) Anyway, this will be a fun project and IĀ“m fully convinced that it will be total fun to build and drive! Have a nice weekend, Matthias Ā 2 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1952 Posted June 27, 2020 Hmmm, have a close look at my design and at the MCI decals. I am sad to say but I cant and want use them like they are printed.Ā Have just sent a mail to MCI... Ā 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1952 Posted June 29, 2020 Today I had some time to do the first dry-build. Seems like it works! In fact it would be ready to run but I have to finishe and seal the carbon parts first. 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Collin 1952 Posted June 29, 2020 About the Gear Cover, the part which made me most confused. I cutted a bit from theĀ lower ear, othervice its pretty hard to mount without disassembeling. This ear was only in use for the Motor Guard from the original Dyna. Anyway I would recommend unmounting the right suspension arm, its only one e-clip and pulling a shaft, to mount/unmount the Gear Cover. All tight but all moves free. 1 1 Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ann3x 220 Posted June 29, 2020 How much wider than stock is the rear tower? Might be just perspective but looks huge and will give very linear damping if so .... May have some big bottoming out.Ā Share this post Link to post Share on other sites