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Collin

Mid-Storm, just another Dyna.

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41 minutes ago, Ann3x said:

How much wider than stock is the rear tower? Might be just perspective but looks huge and will give very linear damping if so .... May have some big bottoming out. 

Its exactly the same geometry. only gearbox and arms turned around. Even the parts are original, the tower is just SLS printed but sames dimensions.

But yes I agree, probabley movint the upper mounts for one hole to the center.

For any case, I made this bumper to prtect the carbon chassis.
mid_ds_033.jpg

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9 hours ago, Collin said:

Its exactly the same geometry. only gearbox and arms turned around. Even the parts are original, the tower is just SLS printed but sames dimensions.

But yes I agree, probabley movint the upper mounts for one hole to the center.

For any case, I made this bumper to prtect the carbon chassis.
mid_ds_033.jpg

Must just be a perspective thing then, the shocks look really straight. Nice bumper! 

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I had the same thought when I took the photo and looked on the display. Its a 27mm lense which stretchs things a bit.

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On 6/29/2020 at 8:02 PM, Collin said:

About the Gear Cover, the part which made me most confused. I cutted a bit from the  lower ear, othervice its pretty hard to mount without disassembeling. This ear was only in use for the Motor Guard from the original Dyna. Anyway I would recommend unmounting the right suspension arm, its only one e-clip and pulling a shaft, to mount/unmount the Gear Cover. All tight but all moves free. :)

mid_ds_055.jpg

That´s a really small mod and worth it. Nobody will notice, the camouflage of using the original gear cover totally :D works for me!

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On 6/21/2020 at 12:51 AM, Collin said:

:wub:

Loving it! Great to see someone else did it too. Can you please post some detail pics? I am so curious how you did it. I use the TR-15T main shaft as Tamiya designed it.
TC fella @bjorklo sent me a screenshot of a facebook member doing the DB mid conversion, I guess its you then.

Have you seen my DB mod?

 

So great how this topic is accellerating. Thanks community!

For the top shaft, I just drill out the spline in the internal ally hex and drill and then machine the outer part of the shaft to take a HPI RS4 spur adapter or slipper, it's a very easy and effective mod. 
 

here's a couple of pics of the Dyna Blaster mid and the storm.

CDC3B846-F52E-4ECB-9A05-0DC23B62C3F9.jpeg

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This is another project I just finished. Jamie Booth Egress replica with my own twist. :) 

C91A0B64-60AC-4B73-A88B-258FEBF5EA73.jpeg

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On 6/21/2020 at 6:52 PM, ruebiracer said:

Another question Muvro:

Seems like you´re using Hicaps instead of the sleeved dampers? Any special reasons on this swap, as you are using the car for Vintage racing?

Interested in your thoughts/findings.

My original DS runs with converted sleeved dampers with volume adjustment. (Back in the days I found it a strange system to run without bladder):D

Kind regards,

Matthias

Yes, I choose the Hicaps mainly for the look any childhood love for them lol. 

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@Muvro

Very interesting detais, thanks for sharing pics. No need for competition here, its TC, not facebook :)

The organic aluminum parts look really eyecatching. Also the fan is really clever, I already thought it might be a bit hot in the cockpit.

About the carbon-fiber motor-plate. I am not shure, never seen that. Does it take the heat off well? Or is this the reaseon for the fan?

I had the Dyna Blaster arms on my Dyna Storm once but I did not like how it handeled. It lost a lot of the agility I like so much on the DS. But this is just a personal question of taste I guess.  Oh, I just realized its the Dyna Blaster with a Dyna Storm - like chassis. All very weired!

It would be so great if you would post more of your conversions here. Really a great drive you have in your mods.

 

 

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Okay, lets keep on. The moto-plate will be watercuttet next week. Boy that was some tinkering. Its so tight with the suspension mount and the gearcover.

The last days I printed some parts with carbon-reinforced PETG filament. It looks really promissing, lets see how it works in real.

mid_ds_056.jpg

mid_ds_057.jpg

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9 hours ago, Collin said:

Okay, lets keep on. The moto-plate will be watercuttet next week. Boy that was some tinkering. Its so tight with the suspension mount and the gearcover.

The last days I printed some parts with carbon-reinforced PETG filament. It looks really promissing, lets see how it works in real.

mid_ds_056.jpg

mid_ds_057.jpg

Nice Tom! Really curious about your material choice and how they perform! I had an hour today, and took out your package to me! Oh yeah:

spacer.png

Seems I need to start the promised build thread. I actually began to seal the edges with superglue already. Weather was fine outdoors, so no problem with cyano fumes...:lol:

The carbon parts look excellent with the flat finish. Reminds me of my Top force Evo.

Thank you so much,

Matthias

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I am glad you are glad. ;)

Today 30°C, perfect day to hide in my cave, doing 3D prints and starting the final build. Its just so much plesure when parts fit together with no play and no unnecessary force.

 

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Final build now, enought of prototyping.

mid_ds_058.jpg

 

So far all fits fine, need to swap the columns for the 23mm ones. Dont know, maybe I wanted to make the battery braces out of 3mm carbonfiber and got them done in 2mm, uff... cant remember.

mid_ds_059.jpg

 

Front with CF-reinforced bulkhead, Bumper is missing because I want it SLS printed out of PA12, its simply more tough. Screws can be shorter also.

mid_ds_060.jpg

 

The rear bumper is a part I really like. Its simple, looks good and is usefull to protect the carbon fiber chassis. And once its broken just reprint it in 30 minutes and back on again : ) 3D printer, best investment in 2020 (so far) ...

mid_ds_061.jpg

 

About the 6mm ballends, I can only get black ones and the DS and TR ones where gray and felt much stiffer then the black ones. Anyone a Idear? I dont want to use third party ones, just liked to get some new grey ones...

 

 

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Hey Tom, looking ace already! In your second pic in the side view:

Did you install the steering spacer SB5 above the post, or is this a second spacer to get the upper deck higher according to your new higher bulkhead? Hard to see for me in the pic.;)

But thinking of your mails, it has to be this way and the decks are spaced to 27mm between each other!?

By the way, I know the black ones from my Vajra kit, but haven´t compared them to the old grey ones. Terra Scorcher 2020 has also black ones, so I think there is really no grey ones from Tamiya around at the moment...<_<

Haven´t made a material comparison, but the old grey ones are really tough, low friction and slop free. I guess I have still all original on my Dyna from 1992...

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Matthias, its all about 25mm. I was a bit sunburned I think : )

For the steering-coulums. I use two original ones at the bottom and two other ones (same dimenstions) for the top + one small black spacer. But I think you dont need them with the original kick-up. Again, all three columns + bulkhead should be 25mm above the lower deck/chassis.

Well, I am really a bit confused about what was the original and what the conversion. Sooooory :D

Btw. the higher bulkhead is only because you get lower in the front with the kydex kickup. Thats the only reason. But I just realized  little time ago, that also means the suspension geometry is 2mm lower at the front compared to the original DS. Well, didnt felt any negativ handeling so far... :unsure:
 

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Superb Tom,

now it´s clear to me, and gives absolutely sense with the original front parts. Seems I need to get started, and built this beast up from the front to the rear!;)

Kind regards,

Matthias

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Jep, simple sayed, start in the front and go th the rear, if you dont get up to 25mm on any of the other three mounts put some shims under it, until you get the 23mm columns with the other parts.

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4 hours ago, Muvro said:

Looking fantastic so far :)

Thanks, I am really pleased with how it fits together. 

But the major point will be the motorplate and gearcover alignement. Tomorrow it ir ready for pickup. 

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What's the budget and what are you looking for? Do you want it to be fully adjustable (by PC or programcard)?

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Hi Tom,

don´t know, if that helps you:

I will stay in the mid price range, low profile for sure, and something like the Savöx 1251MG probably. ;)

I have some of them in my Touring cars as well as in 2 Monster beetles, they are really trustable servos.

Fast and strong enough for me. And you can get spare parts quite easily for them. Not that I ever had a problem, but good to know...

Kind regards,

Matthias

 

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On 8/12/2020 at 9:44 AM, Tizer said:

What's the budget and what are you looking for? Do you want it to be fully adjustable (by PC or programcard)?

No, not at all. Good quality standard ones but quick and strong and precise ones... I have bought a second hand Ko Propo FET one years ago and it is really nice. But they are hard to get somehow.

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