Jump to content
Collin

Mid-Storm, just another Dyna.

Recommended Posts

Just now, ruebiracer said:

Hey sounds great Tom, real track testing!;)

Don´t be afraid too much of the club thing, just take your time to get a taste of it. For sure some guys will initially tell you to buy the latest buggy of XY and that this old Tamiya is rubbish, but maybe there are some oldschoolguys too, who understand what you are doing and why. Vintage rules!:lol:

Yeah, MDC needs to sit properly. In a rush this can happen. Was the flipover the reason you search a wingmount?:lol:

Video is still uploading but in a minute its online : )

No, I just thought to have one printed and the original wing and to not fiddle around it would be cool to have the whole mount installed. But I dont think I really need it.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, Collin said:

First track experience today and I have to say it was superfun! I will signe in imediatly, no more garden run, no more destructed flowers and no mad sister : )

First of all, the 13x2 brushed motor is far enough for my dirving skills now and I start very sensitiv, no jums, just rolling over the course. I dont want to destroy everything on the first day. But I immediatly mentioned there is a huge potential with thes mid Dyna once I got some track-driving skills.

This is some material I captured with my phone, so tell me what you can read out of it please. For me, I dont have too much experience at all, just my TR-15T in the parking lot and my Dynas at the garden. But for a vehicle it moves pretty nice arount the corners and also feels stable when going straight forward. On thoes little jumps I mentioned that the weight ballance is really cool because the car wanted to go down with the nose on its own.

https://a-tom.org/tc/midDS_firstTestrun.mp4

:wub:

13x2 is a very good motor choice and was the same I ran 1993. Not slow, and for sure not easy to handle on a track for the first time, even with a quite subtle lying DS.

Your sister will be happy!:lol:

Seems I can´t start the video? my fault?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 minutes ago, ruebiracer said:

Seems I can´t start the video? my fault?

Just replaced it with a smaller version. Should work now as a stream.

 

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Its working now.

And this is how it finally got with decals and stuff.  I am more than happy with this runner! :wub:

I will do some nice pics once I have a bit more time and light in my flat. This ones are not sharp but wanted to post how it looks now.

mid_ds_102.jpg

mid_ds_103.jpg

mid_ds_104.jpg

  • Like 6

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 minutes ago, Collin said:

Its working now.

And this is how it finally got with decals and stuff.  I am more than happy with this runner! :wub:

I will do some nice pics once I have a bit more time and light in my flat. This ones are not sharp but wanted to post how it looks now.

mid_ds_102.jpg

mid_ds_103.jpg

mid_ds_104.jpg

Ah, great track Tom! That one is impressively big, and really suited for 1:10 racing. And as in the good old times, before Astro took over. Never understood that thing with buggy racing without dirt.:lol:

And respect for your driving already! It´s a totally different thing driving on such a big track, especially in the sections farer away from the driverstand. I tried to teach my nephew last year with my Dyna, and it was big fun, too.

For the first impressions on this loose dirt: It seems to have good steering being 2WD, as you have a lot of hairpin corners, which you managed to take quite easy. And the fact that you didn´t spin out, I remember only one time from the first view, makes me think it has still good rear end stability, although having more front weight than the std. Dyna!

Think this is quite the same impression you had from driving it. I have to admit, I only raced onroad since 1997.:lol:

But on this level already, you will have big fun to tuning this beast to the track, if you decide to go there more often. For sure a good thing for your wrenchdog parts, to be able to test them under realistic conditions. I mean this by the way, that everything brakes under the right crash, but if your parts survive this track testing, then they are good to go. In some homebashing most of the time you hit strange obstacles as places are small...:lol: Think you get the intention. 

Great taht you made the video to get us an impression of it running. Seems I have to upload my nephews first driving session with my old dyna, there is an epic fail of me, when he looses the front tire before one corner... Some years back I seemed to have missed the C-clip in the front.:ph34r:

Greets from vaccation,

Matthias

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, Collin said:

First track experience today and I have to say it was superfun! I will signe in imediatly, no more garden run, no more destructed flowers and no mad sister : )

First of all, the 13x2 brushed motor is far enough for my dirving skills now and I start very sensitiv, no jums, just rolling over the course. I dont want to destroy everything on the first day. But I immediatly mentioned there is a huge potential with thes mid Dyna once I got some track-driving skills.

This is some material I captured with my phone, so tell me what you can read out of it please. For me, I dont have too much experience at all, just my TR-15T in the parking lot and my Dynas at the garden. But for a vehicle it moves pretty nice arount the corners and also feels stable when going straight forward. On thoes little jumps I mentioned that the weight ballance is really cool because the car wanted to go down with the nose on its own.

https://a-tom.org/tc/midDS_firstTestrun.mp4

:wub:

Awesome!

I really want to drive one of my Blasters, but only on a low bump/jump offroad surface/track to not senseless destroy parts.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
14 hours ago, ruebiracer said:

Ah, great track Tom! That one is impressively big, and really suited for 1:10 racing. And as in the good old times, before Astro took over. Never understood that thing with buggy racing without dirt.:lol:

And respect for your driving already! It´s a totally different thing driving on such a big track, especially in the sections farer away from the driverstand. I tried to teach my nephew last year with my Dyna, and it was big fun, too.

For the first impressions on this loose dirt: It seems to have good steering being 2WD, as you have a lot of hairpin corners, which you managed to take quite easy. And the fact that you didn´t spin out, I remember only one time from the first view, makes me think it has still good rear end stability, although having more front weight than the std. Dyna!

Think this is quite the same impression you had from driving it. I have to admit, I only raced onroad since 1997.:lol:

But on this level already, you will have big fun to tuning this beast to the track, if you decide to go there more often. For sure a good thing for your wrenchdog parts, to be able to test them under realistic conditions. I mean this by the way, that everything brakes under the right crash, but if your parts survive this track testing, then they are good to go. In some homebashing most of the time you hit strange obstacles as places are small...:lol: Think you get the intention. 

Great taht you made the video to get us an impression of it running. Seems I have to upload my nephews first driving session with my old dyna, there is an epic fail of me, when he looses the front tire before one corner... Some years back I seemed to have missed the C-clip in the front.:ph34r:

Greets from vaccation,

Matthias

Oh it spinned out a few times but only if you dont look out or you are not sensitiv enough on the steering.

I totally agree with testing parts on the track, if they are track-testet, they are good enought to stay. So far I can tell you, bulkhead and rear suspension mounts does work propperly. The front kickup startet to delaminate after a bump against the curb but thats no big deal for me. SLS print would have definitly made it. I have some PU filament, which is really flexible and strong and needs tpo be tested anyway. 
 

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Wheels are nice and I like the blue, not sure about blue decals on the blue body tho, the colour is pretty indistinct.

Also, i think you need MORE POWER! Looks like it could handle a fair bit more and you could clear those doubles.

Great job tho.

  • Thanks 1
  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yea shure, more power! Hrhrhrh... :lol:

Lets see how often I can do practice on the track, but ordered another two shorty LiPo today. Just to be well equiped.

About the blue decals on blue ground, it was a bit of a concept, somehow a stealth thing... but I might do fat red outlines with the next print. For now its pretty much what I like to have. No boxart and one nice bright but not brutal bright colour.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great work on the buggy! 

Where is that track, it looks fab. Our back garden track is barely a 1/5th of that size and we have been trying to find a proper dirt track for racing on but can't seem to find anything close to North Lincolnshire (UK). All the local clubs seem to be indoor carpet tracks, most don't even do buggy race events. So different to how it was back in the 80's and 90's when there were loads of dirt tracks.

edit: I did see a youtube video by NemoRacing that showed a brand new built track (3 months ago) down near Birmingham. Track looks great but is for 1/8th Nitro I think. That is a 2 hour drive for me though even if they did 1/10th :-(

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

This track is 40min drive outside Vienna, Austria, close to the place where part of my family lifes. So I am quiet often near by.

Indeed they run mainly 1:8 nitro and electro but the track suits perfect for 1:10 "toys" as well because its really not too extreme and aggressiv. And even if the buggy is dusty after the run, its so much fun drifting around the corner, leaving a dustcloud behind : )

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 minutes ago, Collin said:

This track is 40min drive outside Vienna, Austria, close to the place where part of my family lifes. So I am quiet often near by.

Indeed they run mainly 1:8 nitro and electro but the track suits perfect for 1:10 "toys" as well because its really not too extreme and aggressiv. And even if the buggy is dusty after the run, its so much fun drifting around the corner, leaving a dustcloud behind : )

That sounds perfect, you are so lucky! 

The dusty conditions made it look fantastic in the video, I really enjoying watching the buggy kick up dust as it sped along. 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hy Guys.

Got some more track experience today. First of all, @Ann3x, doubles are no problem at all, even with two meters of acceleration. This 13x2 Corally is a dam. beast.

Next step, I broke the lower ballconnector of the rear damper, so there is the thread stuck in the suspension arm. Its really a pitty because its an original part. I will get some pa12 SLS printed ones to replace the arms, its too sad to break original parts on this heavy track.

But I need only some litte tweaks here and there and the mid motos Dyna is really able to run the  "Buggybahn" with full-on and no fear to break down. I am really surprised and amazed.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
5 hours ago, Collin said:

But I need only some litte tweaks here and there and the mid motos Dyna is really able to run the  "Buggybahn" with full-on and no fear to break down. I am really surprised and amazed.

I am not surprised at all. The layout you have now is fundamentally very good and the suspension on the dyna was always great. My Grasshopper2 Ultra G moves amazingly well on track, and i wasn't even expecting much of that. You can't argue with physics: Mid-motor, longitudinal battery will always give a sound handling balance IMO. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Another run on the track today. I am learning really quick, it was the BEST desicion to enter the local club to get some track experience. I can do the small doubles and the desks, and finally I tried to take the big double at the rear side.

Well, and now I have to fix some weak spots.

1) 3D printed parts ONLY SLS/MFJ PA12 Nylon. The homeprinter is nice but can not keep on with industry quality.
2) replace ALL suspension arms for printed ones. The original are to rare to risk them. My rear ones have a broken thread of the ballend inside and the other a hairline crack also below the ballend.
3) rear damper lower mounts to suspension arm. a weak spot indeed. Maybe using M4 ballends if they exist or long M3 ones with more meat around the mounts at the suspension arms.
4) ESC is getting hot and switching off. Since I am not anymore sneaking around the track the ESC is at its limit. I am not shure what to do. The corally 13x2 is a fantastic motor and 31T pinion with original 126T spur (FDR 8.13) is really fast and gives nice acceleration. So what to do now? Gearing lower means lack of speed which I dont want. Going brushless immediatly? Hmmm...
5) rear bumber cracked, going Nylon PA 12 next. or maybe the white PC Filament which worked brilliant for the front bumper.

Anyway, the Mid DS is partly striped and I will try to get some PA12 printed parts till end of the week. But also I have my DS211x which should run nice too and the Dyna Blaster DB211x which also needs some fresh air and dust.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@Collin I don't know much about brushed motors, but maybe a lower FDR wouldn't be too much slower? 8 seems quite high geared for a brushed motor, so maybe a lower gear will let it spin up more easily and lower temps. I have just had to get a special motor plate made for my Thunder Dragon to allow me to drop the FDR from 8.86 to 10.46 and that is just to allow me to run a 17 turn brushed and full gas. I would try a FDR around 10 or 11 before going brushless. That 13x2 should rev to the heavens if it can get on top of the gear. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I will do so. Drilling holes and adding fan to the ESC is the last thing I want.

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Went out with the DS211x today. Its also brilliant to drive.

But I have to work out the rearlower damper mount. Again one of the ballends threads was pulled out. Now I have to find a solution for this maximum weak spot. Its just half fun if I cannot take some airtime. First idear, having a look at other RCs how they did. Maybe 1:8 nitro buggys or something really robust. Probably the rear mounts should have the same design for the mounts like the front one, where the screw goes trough the arm first, ball collar and into the arm again.

Also I could use 6x6mm ball collars with long M3 screws in combination with the reinforced suspension arms.

To compare the DS211x with the Mid Motor, the DS211x is much more robust with the aluminum bulkhead and PA12 suspension arms. I have to lift the Mid DS to the same evolution state AND have to find the solution for the lower damper mounts for both.

Ah, the naive printed ABS spur gear with 48p survived a full LiPo runtime with the 9.5T brushless system. I was very curious that it even worked that long. Now I have one mounted printed from a mate who used some higher graded filament, cant remember which brand.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 9/23/2020 at 1:36 PM, ThunderDragonCy said:

@Collin I don't know much about brushed motors, but maybe a lower FDR wouldn't be too much slower? 8 seems quite high geared for a brushed motor, so maybe a lower gear will let it spin up more easily and lower temps. I have just had to get a special motor plate made for my Thunder Dragon to allow me to drop the FDR from 8.86 to 10.46 and that is just to allow me to run a 17 turn brushed and full gas. I would try a FDR around 10 or 11 before going brushless. That 13x2 should rev to the heavens if it can get on top of the gear. 

Yes, agreed, I tend to drop a pinion size or two when going down a few turns on the motor. Seems counter productive in theory as you are lowering gearing BUT if the replacement motor will run higher rpms you maintain or increase top speed while also significantly increasing acceleration which on our short technical track is often more important in winning races than outright top speed.

eg.

I have a Reedy 19t spec quad mag running 8.4v in my t'shot and that is running a 13 tooth pinion (stock is 15 tooth)

in my Avante2001 I run a Dyna Run Super Touring motor also with 8.4v on a 19 tooth pinion (stock is 20 tooth pinion) 

Both have far higher top speeds (checked on a gps speedo) than stock but also have far superior acceleration AND motors don't overheat and I get good run times from the batteries. The 8.4v powered Reedy 19t spec motor gives 8 mins runtime on my T'shot with just a 2000mah NiCD (Sanyo cells), the Avante gets just over 5 mins from the same 2000mah NiCD in race conditions.

EDIT: My Motors do have cooling fins attached to them though, not sure how much of a difference they make, they are genuine Tamiya items.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep, sounds all very logical.

Here is what I did today, hope to solve the breaking rear suspension arms and the lower damper mount with this design.

B3_mid_DS_reinf.jpg

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Got some nice goodies yesterday :) Its only a part of what was printed. PA12 shapeways quality. Plastic primer and black spraycan. Looks really nice.

mid_ds_111.jpg


The Mid DS is back for the track. The white parts are Polymax PC filament homeprinted parts. Even if I have the PA12 ones, I am testing as much as I can.
mid_ds_105.jpg

mid_ds_106.jpg

mid_ds_107.jpgmid_ds_108.jpg

mid_ds_109.jpg

mid_ds_110.jpg

  • Like 4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Great parts Tom,

like how you improve with every loop, and the new wishbones are a piece of art, as you copied the nice floating shapes Tamiya used on the Dyna!

Can´t wait your track test!:)

Kind regards,

Matthias

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Indeed the suspension arms have a very unique design, very floating and the body aswell. I was often wondering who at Tamiya was the designer at that time. Do anyone know about? A very, very good job done.

Anyway. I was checking my parts bevor and realized its only the gearbox, internals and drivetrain which is still limiting me from infinity use of my dynas. Seems like this is the last big challange.

@ThunderDragonCy you already made the TRF201 transmission. Maybe I go this way during the winter month... maybeee... ^_^

  • Haha 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Collin said:

Indeed the suspension arms have a very unique design, very floating and the body aswell. I was often wondering who at Tamiya was the designer at that time. Do anyone know about? A very, very good job done.

Anyway. I was checking my parts bevor and realized its only the gearbox, internals and drivetrain which is still limiting me from infinity use of my dynas. Seems like this is the last big challange.

@ThunderDragonCy you already made the TRF201 transmission. Maybe I go this way during the winter month... maybeee... ^_^

Happy to help. If you pm me we can get on email and i can send you some 3d 201 files to look at and figure out. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
57 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

Happy to help. If you pm me we can get on email and i can send you some 3d 201 files to look at and figure out. 

I definitly will get in touch with you. But I think I need some weeks break of RC tinkering. Also money is a point. prototyping is expensive. But it will be a nice projcect for upcoming lockdown winter.

What I need to do is some investigation about internals. The gearbox need to stay (more or less) like the original but inside re-designed for modern internals. The gears, diff, outdrives and CVS should be something what will be available in some years too.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...