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Collin

Mid-Storm, just another Dyna.

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1 hour ago, Collin said:

Those digital ones, dont they require some extra TX/RX ?

Good question! Actually all my newer servos worked even on my old Futaba RX, but for sure some special features of the newer servos require  a corresponding RX.

Since some years, I switched to Sanwa with an MT4. Never regretted it. If you want to get all the speed of the new servos, you also need a decent RX, otherwise you will probably not see the full potential of the servo. But I´m no expert with these superfast modes. Actually on some of my M-chassis, I often reduce turn in speed and just keep the speed up for the countersteer. This superfast servos can make a car quite nervous.:lol:

What RX do you use Tom?

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Its a Futabe 3PM-FM 40mhz. Not the newest but still plenty of nice settings.

Just checked the manual. There is PPM and HRS modulation. With HRS and the correct RX it can use 6V digital Servos.But it looks like my Ko Propo KF-297FZ cant do it. I dont care about the super fast reaction, just dont want to fry anything.

The Sävox you mentioned looks quiet nice to me.

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19 hours ago, Collin said:

Those digital ones, dont they require some extra TX/RX ?

The adjustable ones you mean? They usually have either a USB dongle or a programcard you can plug into it. One of my servo's actually has an NFC connection so I can use my phone to set it up from an app. Pretty cool stuff!

It's a bit lesser known in the racing world, mostly from drifting, but I really like RC OMG servo's. They are well priced and very good quality/speed.

Other good options include KoPropo, Highest and SRT. PowerHD has also come a long way since the days of cheap ebay china spec servo's and make really good stuff now. I'm not a fan of Savox, I've had way too many issues with multiple of their models. Trackstar stuff is also not great even though it's tempting because it's cheap(er).

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No, just "normal" digital ones. They came after the analogs. I am a bit bad in RC history and generations of technics. Just dropped in lately :D

KoPropo, Highest and SRT, I will have a closer look later at nightshift.

Also I will post some pics of the Mid Storm. Battery was already in and wheels spinning, but all on my desk.

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Okay, okay, okay,... OKAAAYY!!!

@ruebiracer This little blue thing will be your gearbox spacer usually part of the TR-15T Spur-Gear bag.

Left is my donor to the Goddes of Tinkering, it shows how much you need to remove to make the gearcover fit nicely. Btw. I removed my full-carbon rear shock tower and took the original like one, the ballends move a bit more to the rear and its much better to find a sweet position for the gear cover. I recommend to widen the three mounting holes a bit so you can move the gearbox-cover a bit around when tigthening it. Spurgear and pinion are VERY close to the inner walls and it might grind a bit off... but okay, I can live with it. Notice, this is the original spur with 31t pinion now. The later coming 48p spur will be smaller, but the pinion might be cosey close to the inner wall. We will see...

mid_ds_062.jpg

 

The version 13! of the motor plate. And there will be a #14 of course. This is 2mm 2014 T3 hardened aluminum usually used to repair airplanes, the big ones. Its nearly impossile to get a little sheet of 2.5mm one, but maybe a 3mm one and I will mill some nice grooves to the backside and around the gearbox mounts, so it will fit with the mainshaft.

@ruebiracer about the flange bearing, you need to file a tiny, tiny bit away all around the seat that the bearing slip in nicely and does not get squeesed. You will notice when it does not run free. Also i made the M3 threads only with the first of the three tread-cutter. Take one of your m3 screws and screw them in slowly and within the given thread to finish the process. I wantet to have the threads as tight as they can be because of the 2mm sheet. And they are tight!

The lower thread is not even trilled now because I thought I might move the gearbox a bit around. Its fine with two screws anyway but next version will come with all mounts. Also I think its pretty important to get your feedback as well, also because of the 48p gears later then.

mid_ds_063.jpg

mid_ds_065.jpg

The right sidepanel need to be rounded a bit, but propably you get the gearcover on without cutting it as well, but then its a bit tricky maybe. Like this puzzle games with rings and bent bolts, you know? :lol:

About the left sidepanel, leave it off until you are done with the complete built. Put it on at the very end. When you want to swap and mount the motor you need to unmount it. I had mine, a already used one, on and off 5 times the last days, unnecessary stress for the threads. Some are broken now. Hail the Goddess of Tinkering, again. :)

mid_ds_064.jpg

I have this ProLine tires at the rear, the are a bit rounder then the original spiked ones, its narrow, migt leave some marks but I think its all fine.

mid_ds_066.jpg

The whole beauty from above.

mid_ds_067.jpg

So far its ready to install the electrics. I have only some old junk laying around and not much money left for new goodies. The motor is a Corally 13x2, the esc a LRP Indy 600 forward only and the servo, a flappy and old Futaba. RX unit is a Ko Propo 40mhz one. I have to shorten wires a bit, it was all just pluged together for a testrun, the Dyna sitting on my empty cup of coffee, on my desk. :)

Fella @ruebiracer will build the twin model of this one, receiving last parts by next week. I am curious about his experience with the build.

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43 minutes ago, Collin said:

Okay, okay, okay,... OKAAAYY!!!

@ruebiracer This little blue thing will be your gearbox spacer usually part of the TR-15T Spur-Gear bag.

Left is my donor to the Goddes of Tinkering, it shows how much you need to remove to make the gearcover fit nicely. Btw. I removed my full-carbon rear shock tower and took the original like one, the ballends move a bit more to the rear and its much better to find a sweet position for the gear cover. I recommend to widen the three mounting holes a bit so you can move the gearbox-cover a bit around when tigthening it. Spurgear and pinion are VERY close to the inner walls and it might grind a bit off... but okay, I can live with it. Notice, this is the original spur with 31t pinion now. The later coming 48p spur will be smaller, but the pinion might be cosey close to the inner wall. We will see...

mid_ds_062.jpg

 

The version 13! of the motor plate. And there will be a #14 of course. This is 2mm 2014 T3 hardened aluminum usually used to repair airplanes, the big ones. Its nearly impossile to get a little sheet of 2.5mm one, but maybe a 3mm one and I will mill some nice grooves to the backside and around the gearbox mounts, so it will fit with the mainshaft.

@ruebiracer about the flange bearing, you need to file a tiny, tiny bit away all around the seat that the bearing slip in nicely and does not get squeesed. You will notice when it does not run free. Also i made the M3 threads only with the first of the three tread-cutter. Take one of your m3 screws and screw them in slowly and within the given thread to finish the process. I wantet to have the threads as tight as they can be because of the 2mm sheet. And they are tight!

The lower thread is not even trilled now because I thought I might move the gearbox a bit around. Its fine with two screws anyway but next version will come with all mounts. Also I think its pretty important to get your feedback as well, also because of the 48p gears later then.

mid_ds_063.jpg

mid_ds_065.jpg

The right sidepanel need to be rounded a bit, but propably you get the gearcover on without cutting it as well, but then its a bit tricky maybe. Like this puzzle games with rings and bent bolts, you know? :lol:

About the left sidepanel, leave it off until you are done with the complete built. Put it on at the very end. When you want to swap and mount the motor you need to unmount it. I had mine, a already used one, on and off 5 times the last days, unnecessary stress for the threads. Some are broken now. Hail the Goddess of Tinkering, again. :)

mid_ds_064.jpg

I have this ProLine tires at the rear, the are a bit rounder then the original spiked ones, its narrow, migt leave some marks but I think its all fine.

mid_ds_066.jpg

The whole beauty from above.

mid_ds_067.jpg

So far its ready to install the electrics. I have only some old junk laying around and not much money left for new goodies. The motor is a Corally 13x2, the esc a LRP Indy 600 forward only and the servo, a flappy and old Futaba. RX unit is a Ko Propo 40mhz one. I have to shorten wires a bit, it was all just pluged together for a testrun, the Dyna sitting on my empty cup of coffee, on my desk. :)

Fella @ruebiracer will build the twin model of this one, receiving last parts by next week. I am curious about his experience with the build.

Tom, that looks all very promising and well done! Top job! don´t worry about the motormount issues, in the end you will be confident. As it´s airplane alunum and not some cheap std. stuff, I actually think there will be no problem with durability! The Corally is also cool 13x2 is exactly what I ran 1993 in my first race with my original Dyna.:)

Can´t wait to find some time in my holidays to start the build!:wub:

 

 

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5 hours ago, Tizer said:

The adjustable ones you mean? They usually have either a USB dongle or a programcard you can plug into it. One of my servo's actually has an NFC connection so I can use my phone to set it up from an app. Pretty cool stuff!

It's a bit lesser known in the racing world, mostly from drifting, but I really like RC OMG servo's. They are well priced and very good quality/speed.

Other good options include KoPropo, Highest and SRT. PowerHD has also come a long way since the days of cheap ebay china spec servo's and make really good stuff now. I'm not a fan of Savox, I've had way too many issues with multiple of their models. Trackstar stuff is also not great even though it's tempting because it's cheap(er).

Thank you Tizer, very useful infos on modern servos here!:)

I actually have a bunch of Savöx and only one ever made a squeeking noise after some wet races. But a drop of oil solved the problem.

But I just got the Power HD R12 recommended some months ago, and I´m very impressed. Bang for the buck. I´d say it outperforms the Savöx 1251. They really improved massively. (I have a cheap one from their beginning, too).

The RC OMG seems interesting, will have look into their products.

Thank you!

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The motorplate will definitly work but, but... you know I have something in my mind and I want it nice andshiny and some grooves on one side...pure plush :wub:

Okay, so I have thisn nice brushed motor, its almost new, which you had back in the days. Funny coincident : )

About the servos, I would need something nice from the periode of the corally and the LRP Indy. But still something nice. I am just a bit afraid of buying 2nd hand one from ebay. I guess some of them already had their best days...

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Now Tom, you still do not know which Servo to take, but I can say you will not have a problem with your Futaba 3PM. I have the later one still with the first 2,4Ghz Module. It has no problems with the digital servos.

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8 minutes ago, Collin said:

The motorplate will definitly work but, but... you know I have something in my mind and I want it nice andshiny and some grooves on one side...pure plush :wub:

Okay, so I have thisn nice brushed motor, its almost new, which you had back in the days. Funny coincident : )

About the servos, I would need something nice from the periode of the corally and the LRP Indy. But still something nice. I am just a bit afraid of buying 2nd hand one from ebay. I guess some of them already had their best days...

 

 

O.k., I did not have a Corally, it was some special motor based on a Yokomo housing from "Motorworld". Unfortunately it has a short cut on the rotor as it must have eaten a stone or something, so it´s done. But I thought about buying a spare motor from Corally to steal the rotor...:) Then it would a tleast look like my old stuff in my Dyna. For the mid I´m still not 100% sure, if I go the vintage electronics route or some modern brushless stuff. With the shorty pack, it tends to be more in the modern direction. We´ll see, when everything comes together!

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8 minutes ago, ruebiracer said:

For the mid I´m still not 100% sure, if I go the vintage electronics route or some modern brushless stuff. With the shorty pack, it tends to be more in the modern direction. We´ll see, when everything comes together!

For me its just the question of what I have and what I want to spend. One Servo is okay right now, a full brushless combo, maybe after the summer...

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Rough cut, its not very much what needs to go. I like how the gear cover lugs out of the shell.

mid_ds_068.jpg

mid_ds_069.jpg

mid_ds_070.jpg

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8 hours ago, Collin said:

Rough cut, its not very much what needs to go. I like how the gear cover lugs out of the shell.

mid_ds_068.jpg

mid_ds_069.jpg

mid_ds_070.jpg

That looks promising Tom! 

Car looks much more compact due to the missing rear motor. Will be totally interesting to see it beneath the std. Dyna. Got to love both...

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20 hours ago, ruebiracer said:

Will be totally interesting to see it beneath the std. Dyna. Got to love both...

Beneath? :lol: Beside?

mid_ds_071.jpg

mid_ds_072.jpg

mid_ds_073.jpg

mid_ds_074.jpg

mid_ds_075.jpg

 

To be honest, the motor on the back looks so good to me, especially with airscoop and moto-protection mounted. Mid Moto is now a bit like Top Force. But I like it vrey much also.

Two different pairs of shoes but still the same cup of tea. :lol:

ps: Just noticed, maybe I put the wing-mounts to the front to bring the whole wing more to the front. Gives less gap between shell and wing. :huh:

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1 hour ago, Collin said:

Yes, its better...

mid_ds_076.jpg

That was the only "beside" note I wanted to give you Tom! Noticed it on Muvros version, much easier than making a new wing mount...:)

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"beneath", "beside".... I only understand Railwaystation :lol:

Now its time to think about rims, tires and paint. I already had a design in my head with tamiya colorcode blue/red. Using dark grey carbon turbin style rims and this Proline rubbers.


But now I start to like the white rims with Proline at the rear and DS ones at the front, blue wing, blue sleeved dampers, and maybe a white shell? Ajajajaja... :blink:

 

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On 8/14/2020 at 3:27 PM, Tizer said:

The adjustable ones you mean? They usually have either a USB dongle or a programcard you can plug into it. One of my servo's actually has an NFC connection so I can use my phone to set it up from an app. Pretty cool stuff!

It's a bit lesser known in the racing world, mostly from drifting, but I really like RC OMG servo's. They are well priced and very good quality/speed.

Other good options include KoPropo, Highest and SRT. PowerHD has also come a long way since the days of cheap ebay china spec servo's and make really good stuff now. I'm not a fan of Savox, I've had way too many issues with multiple of their models. Trackstar stuff is also not great even though it's tempting because it's cheap(er).

I am dropping a coin now between Power HD R12 and SRT CH6012. Both have same specs, both around 50€.

 

Bought the SRT finally. ^_^

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Nice! Both will perform well for sure.

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It looks amazing. When will you take preorder for the complete conversion kit? 😜👍

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2 hours ago, bjorklo said:

It looks amazing. When will you take preorder for the complete conversion kit? 😜👍

Just as a side note, Tom will send me the last bits this week björklo!:wub:

You may have to say "please":rolleyes:, but some parts a rare stuff nowadays like the TR15T gear shaft, which is somehow the key to this conversion.

Tom organized one for me over TC, as I hadn´t success sourcing one over the Web.

Thanks so much Tom, your support was awesome making this kit buildable for me!

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2 hours ago, ruebiracer said:

Just as a side note, Tom will send me the last bits this week björklo!:wub:

You may have to say "please":rolleyes:, but some parts a rare stuff nowadays like the TR15T gear shaft, which is somehow the key to this conversion.

Tom organized one for me over TC, as I hadn´t success sourcing one over the Web.

Thanks so much Tom, your support was awesome making this kit buildable for me!

Bjorklo swaped his TR15T mainshaft with my DS one which is now yours... :ph34r:

@bjorklo We will find new one for your conversion kit again.

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But slipper spur gear clutch on DS mainshaft will solve all problems anyway, also with 48p gears. ;)

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