Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Hi TC Members, 

 

I am looking into picking up the TR Tuned Motor 33T and also the CR Tuned 35T Motor for my Bruiser and Highlift. The question is, are they any good? I would like to stick to Tamiya based brushed motors for building my motor collection. I know the TR tuned is mainly for tractors and lorries, but anyone tried using the motor for their trail trucks? I've had a look on YouTube but found absolutely no running videos / reviews regarding the 2 motors. 

Do you guys have experience with them, and possibly shed some light? 

Thanks, 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I’ve been looking at these motors also for a something with a bit more torque than the standard torque tuned motor.  They give similar running rpm also. I’m not sure if the timing can be manually adjusted though to fine tune to the application 🤔

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Quote

 

 

13 hours ago, Toolmaker72 said:

I’ve been looking at these motors also for a something with a bit more torque than the standard torque tuned motor.  They give similar running rpm also. I’m not sure if the timing can be manually adjusted though to fine tune to the application 🤔

It seems that these motors are somewhat of a mystery!! Or no one yet has jumped the boat yet to test them (although I believe they have been out for quite some time now, not sure) 

May have to just pick them up and test them, if no one on TC has any experience using them. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well I fitted a small 2845 brushless motor in my locked diff Subaru Brat running a regular 7.2v battery to see if it was gutless and it was quite the opposite.  The motor wasn’t expensive either so was even more impressive.  Obviously the speed controller has to be changed to suit the motor.  

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I believe @KalEl63 has the CR Tuned in his FJ40 CR01. I've only seen video of it running, but it looks super smooth and nice and torquey for the application. I love the rebuildable motors from Tamiya, and like to use them in as many builds as I can (mostly sitting on the shelf). I have the Formula Tuned in my F104W, and I believe there is a Lightly Tuned in something too. I also have lots of the 23T Super Stocks and GT Tuned as well. They all seem very high quality and just ooze Tamiya

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yep I have the CR in my CR01 FJ40 and I find it perfect for that kit anyway

has the torque when you need but by no means is fast

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Toolmaker72 said:

I fitted a small 2845 brushless motor in my locked diff Subaru Brat

I think @Toolmaker72 came across something here.    

 

Bruiser 3 speeds have really low gear ratio.  Most 4x4 buggies have final drive ratio (FDR) of 8 or so.  But Tamiya 3 speeds have FDR of 55, 40, 28.   Blackfoot (which has the same diameter tires) has FDR of 15.  Considering that the blackfoot weighs only 1.7kg, where as Bruiser weighs 3.2kg, Bruiser's gear ratio should be 30.  But its lowest FDR is 55, almost 4 times lower than Blackfoot.  Also if you compare Tamiya tractor trailers, they have 32, 18, 11.  At 3.5kg, they weigh more than Bruiser, but has half the gear ratio.  

This means, the gear ratio for Bruiser is a lot lower than necessary already.  (I believe Tamiya simply did not want a heavy hunk of metal going down the street at 40km/h. Also it's expensive to repair, even if it doesn't run over toddlers)  

To add more vehicles to the comparison, CR01 can be built with 51, 40, and 32 FDR.  SCX10ii has FRD 40 (optional 33).  

Crawler motors actually have slightly lower torque and lower rpm in exchange for longer battery life.  One thing it gives you is finer control.  The throttle trigger doesn't go from 0 RPM to 14000 RPM.  If you are running a 45t motor, it could be from 0 to 9000 RPM.  1mm of trigger movement could mean 1000 RPM for the silver can, where as 1mm throttle could mean 650 rpm difference for 45t.  The slower the motor, the more precise control you get.  

On the other hand, if you install a slightly faster brushless motor, you can get both.  You get more torque, more speed, and more control too if you are using a sensored motor, even if you are using something like a 15.5t motor.  But Sport Tuned would work too.  

Sport Tuned 18,300 RPM  with 350g/cm torque. 

Silver can 14,500 RPM with 255g/cm torque. 

CR Tuned 35t.  12,000 RPM with 36.7mN-m (374g/cm).  FDR recommended between 50-32. (incidentally, that's the range of gear ratios for CR-01)  

I'm surprised to see CR tuned has 6% more torque than Sport Tuned.  But Sport Tuned is no slouch when it comes to torque.  Since 3-speeds have the lowest gear ratio of all Tamiya vehicles (except for tanks), I think using a faster motor might be something to consider.  This would not work for all crawlers. Because Tamiya 3 speeds have such a low gear ratio, this would work.  But of course, if you want "the crawler-feel," 35t would work because it's slower.  

 

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
10 hours ago, Juggular said:

I think @Toolmaker72 came across something here.    

 

Bruiser 3 speeds have really low gear ratio.  Most 4x4 buggies have final drive ratio (FDR) of 8 or so.  But Tamiya 3 speeds have FDR of 55, 40, 28.   Blackfoot (which has the same diameter tires) has FDR of 15.  Considering that the blackfoot weighs only 1.7kg, where as Bruiser weighs 3.2kg, Bruiser's gear ratio should be 30.  But its lowest FDR is 55, almost 4 times lower than Blackfoot.  Also if you compare Tamiya tractor trailers, they have 32, 18, 11.  At 3.5kg, they weigh more than Bruiser, but has half the gear ratio.  

This means, the gear ratio for Bruiser is a lot lower than necessary already.  (I believe Tamiya simply did not want a heavy hunk of metal going down the street at 40km/h. Also it's expensive to repair, even if it doesn't run over toddlers)  

To add more vehicles to the comparison, CR01 can be built with 51, 40, and 32 FDR.  SCX10ii has FRD 40 (optional 33).  

Crawler motors actually have slightly lower torque and lower rpm in exchange for longer battery life.  One thing it gives you is finer control.  The throttle trigger doesn't go from 0 RPM to 14000 RPM.  If you are running a 45t motor, it could be from 0 to 9000 RPM.  1mm of trigger movement could mean 1000 RPM for the silver can, where as 1mm throttle could mean 650 rpm difference for 45t.  The slower the motor, the more precise control you get.  

On the other hand, if you install a slightly faster brushless motor, you can get both.  You get more torque, more speed, and more control too if you are using a sensored motor, even if you are using something like a 15.5t motor.  But Sport Tuned would work too.  

Sport Tuned 18,300 RPM  with 350g/cm torque. 

Silver can 14,500 RPM with 255g/cm torque. 

CR Tuned 35t.  12,000 RPM with 36.7mN-m (374g/cm).  FDR recommended between 50-32. (incidentally, that's the range of gear ratios for CR-01)  

I'm surprised to see CR tuned has 6% more torque than Sport Tuned.  But Sport Tuned is no slouch when it comes to torque.  Since 3-speeds have the lowest gear ratio of all Tamiya vehicles (except for tanks), I think using a faster motor might be something to consider.  This would not work for all crawlers. Because Tamiya 3 speeds have such a low gear ratio, this would work.  But of course, if you want "the crawler-feel," 35t would work because it's slower.  

 

 

:o  Now, that's a lot of info! (My brain! lol) 

 

The goal of my Bruiser and High lift builds is to make them more capable at trailing, so I guess Im not really after any speed. But more torque so that the trucks can climb more obstacles as I will most likely never really engage 2WD (Looking into actually locking the transmission and leaving it in low 4x4) 

Considering the Bruiser having such low gearing, would the TR Torque Tuned work better? 

Also, does the high lift have the same FDR as the bruiser? 

In theory, I would like the Bruiser to have a slightly slower motor with more torque than the Highlift (from the 2 options)

Here are some of the specs for the 2 motors; (I will be running 7.4 2S Lipo) 

TR Tuned 33T 400g/cm @ 12,500rpm with 7.2v   

CR Tuned 35T 375g/cm @ 12,000rpm with 7.2v

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Because of the low gearing, you don't need to worry about the torque.  

Think of beefy dead lifter's legs. Their ultra strong legs give them super torque.  

fAakURv.png

If you think of Bruiser as a bicycle, all that torque would not be needed when bicycle's gear is already on super-low.  It's so easy, even a 9 year old child could pedal uphill.  All that torque isn't really necessary.  Unless you are rock crawling steep inclines.  Tamiya says TR tuned is made for tractor trailers.  I'm not surprised, because their gearing is twice as tall as Bruiser.  They would require more torque, especially on the 3rd gear at 11:1 ratio.   

If you are on a trail with Bruiser at 55:1 ratio, you really don't have to worry about the torque of the motor.  The gearing already gives you torque.  Locking the diffs would give you far more off-road ability than the torque of the motor.  I would worry more about matching your walking speed with your truck.  But you've got the 2nd gear if you need to go faster.  

Hi Lift has even lower gearing: 64 (1st), 35(2nd), 21(3rd).  For Hi Lift, I'd be tempted to use Sport Tuned.  What I would do is buy one motor you like, and try it on both rigs.  If you like it, buy another.  If you bought TR or CR, and think it's too slow for Hi lift, buy Sport Tuned. Or buy Sport Tuned and if you think you'd like something slower, get TR or CR.  If they are too expensive, you might even consider a brushless like 15.5t.  It should be close to Sport Tuned in speed. But the general consensus is that brushless motors could take bigger pinions due to having more torque.  Again, rock crawlers don't like brushless because they tend to be faster too.  But if your gear ratio is 64, the gear ratio itself is very torquey.  

Life was simple when I had less options... That's why Tamiya club members say "when in doubt, buy first and ask questions later."   I'd say go with whatever you like, and get another if you didn't like it.  If you have an extra motor, you'll just have to buy another RC car for that motor.  (sorry, that's not helping, but that's usually how it ends up for me)  

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thankyou juggler. So when I build my mountain rider, I should go for. 13.5t brushless set up? As it will drive well with a faster motor yes?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That's entirely up to you.  

If you want fine control while crawling?  Like turning the wheel 10 degrees at a time? You'd want a higher turn motor like 35t or even 45t.  But if you want slightly faster top speed than Dancing Rider?  Or if you want to keep 4x4 at slightly higher speed?  You might want Sport Tuned or 13.5t.  With those, you'll still do fine in terms of torque. Just that you won't be able to turn wheels little by little precisely. (For that, slow crawler motors would do better) 

Only you know what you want from your truck.  Only you can make your truck uniquely yours.  (half the times, I don't know what I want, so I keep trying this and that... and that's fun too)  

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have Hightlift with MFC-02 and Sport tuned motor installed. Plenty of power. It can pull my 112lbs son on skateboard from dead stop easily. I also have Tamiya LightTuned motor but never bother to put in to test it out.

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
3 hours ago, JYCM3 said:

I have Hightlift with MFC-02 and Sport tuned motor installed. Plenty of power. It can pull my 112lbs son on skateboard from dead stop easily. I also have Tamiya LightTuned motor but never bother to put in to test it out.

That's impressive!  

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yes I don’t really crawl so faster motor is better for me. But I didn’t know about the gear ratios so that’s interesting. You kind of assume you ‘need’ a high torque motor in this type of model but of course I suppose you don’t if the gearing is such as it is.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...