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PaulRC10

Threadlock - do you use it?

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I have seen some people use Threadlock on both re-re and original (restore) builds.  I have never done so, despite being sorely tempted on at least one chassis.  I have always assumed the compounds would likely be unkind to plastic over time. 

Any experience to share?  Avoid? Use where necessary? Use by default? 
 

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Only if needed. I rather prefer to lose one screw than not being able to replace it in the field. If a screw or nut is permanently getting loose, I put a drop of mid-strenght on it. Only rear wheel nuts gets always a drop. And the hex with spline inside.

Other with my motobike. Every single screw a drop.

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If you ever sell a model on, the buyer if dismantling the kit will thank you for not using thread lock, particularly on grub screws 👍

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2 minutes ago, futureworks said:

If you ever sell a model on, the buyer if dismantling the kit will thank you for not using thread lock, particularly on grub screws 👍

I wouldn't want to drill one of those out.  :o

Thanks guys, confirmed my thinking.  ;)

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As mentioned, only metal on metal. Only use a tiny amount. I typically drop some on a Q-tip and then run it onto the groves or nut. Even on grub screws. If used right, it shouldn't take too much force to "break the seal". If too much, heat it up first and then turn.

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Always. Especially on grub screws. You'll only have an issue removing it if you either use too much, or use the wrong kind.  I did read somewhere that the Tamiya threadlock is ok coming in contact with plastics, but it's still best not to.

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Hmmm.  I might order tamiya and give it a shot on some of the grubs & 3mm nuts that keep loosening up.  Thx. 

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3 minutes ago, PaulRC10 said:

Hmmm.  I might order tamiya and give it a shot on some of the grubs & 3mm nuts that keep loosening up.  Thx. 

you don't need name brand. i buy mine at the hardware store. #243 / blue (loctite is a brand not sure if you have them worldwide) is the right one. there are others that are higher in strength for other uses, like 262 (high strength) or 648 (bonding for bearings) , for example.

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I use blue tamiya threadlock. It is quite gooey or ‘gluey’ compared with proper loctite, so I seem to be able to remove screws without problem. (I only use on metal to metal though, not plastic)

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2 minutes ago, CoolHands said:

I use blue tamiya threadlock. It is quite gooey or ‘gluey’ compared with proper loctite, so I seem to be able to remove screws without problem.

I've only just discovered Tamiya threadlock. It is quite gooey but I think I prefer it to locktites. And it smells nice too.

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The tube of Permatex blue thread lock gel I have says not to use on plastic parts.  This is pretty consistent with what I've read/heard for most thread locking compounds.  I'd avoid using it except for metal-metal interfaces.

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Yes, use 242 on metal to metal fixings. Just a tiny, tiny spot. 

If you wanted to be conservative, but are running the car, I'd suggest 242 on any metal to metal where one part is a custom fitting that would be a PITA or expensive to source should it fall off :)

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Yes, Loctite 222 (purple) for metal-to-metal fasteners... Loctite 242 is really too strong for what we do, being for 6mm or larger threads.

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Blue Loctite on metal to metal. Stay clear of the red stuff!

If I have pesky screws embedded in plastic that keep coming loose, a tiny tiny drop of CA glue fixes that. (this advice is general in nature and Falcon#5 accepts no liability, responsibility or recourse) :lol:

But a regular going over will identify which and what is coming loose, and nip them up accordingly.

 

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I use a tiny dab on all metal-to-metal fasteners, unless there's a locknut. A dab of medium CA on screws threaded into plastic that keep loosening, although that's not a frequent occurrence.

A little green Loctite (one drop) on the motor shaft before you install the pinion will help keep the pinion on in big horsepower applications. Think 1/8 and larger and six or more cells. Even with 5mm motor shafts and two set screws, the pinions still fall off sometimes. Those things will spike at over 2000 watts- almost 3 hp- so there's a lot of stress on a small part.

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Just in the middle of a Kyosho Turbo Ultima build and it includes threadlock in the kit.  Only directed to use where the screws terminate in a plate or non locking nut. 
Do Tamiya don’t supply / recommend threadlock in their kits do they? 

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4 minutes ago, PaulRC10 said:

Just in the middle of a Kyosho Turbo Ultima build and it includes threadlock in the kit.  Only directed to use where the screws terminate in a plate or non locking nut. 
Do Tamiya don’t supply / recommend threadlock in their kits do they? 

Because not needed on plastic. In fact, discouraged. Only metal to metal.

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2 hours ago, PaulRC10 said:

Just in the middle of a Kyosho Turbo Ultima build and it includes threadlock in the kit.  Only directed to use where the screws terminate in a plate or non locking nut. 
Do Tamiya don’t supply / recommend threadlock in their kits do they? 

I got some red Tamiya threadlock with my BigWig rere, which I think was just for the small screw that holds the bumper in place. The Boomerang rere has the same screw and the manual asks for threadlock but there was none in the kit. There was none in the DI kit, but I did use some left over from the Bigwig on the metal-to-metal connections, like hop up aluminium knuckles / 5mm ball connectors

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ran my sand viper today, spent 10 min looking for the dogbone after the assembly lost a screw, went to put it babk together only to find i also lost the gearbox joint. went back and amazingly found it by second base. Anyway, one screw and alot of trouble later now thread locked in place

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3 hours ago, Finnsllc said:

ran my sand viper today, spent 10 min looking for the dogbone after the assembly lost a screw, went to put it babk together only to find i also lost the gearbox joint. went back and amazingly found it by second base. Anyway, one screw and alot of trouble later now thread locked in place

Lucky!  That happened to me on my original hotshot.  Before I knew that people used threadlock. I shelved it for fear of losing bits l.  I think it’s worth going back over my other kits now.

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I will be from now on.

I spent an age staring at gravel in the carpark on Saturday looking for the lower shock mount bushing after taking my Terra Scorcher out for its first run. Just a tiny amount of 242 on the threads of bolts before they go into flange nuts.

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