soap/water on decals for easier application?

[A-Baum 352]

I thought I read somewhere you can use water/soap and apply to the decals before putting them on so you can slide them around a little and really dial in their location without committing the first time it hits the shell.  I can't find that anymore and was wondering if that is accurate.  Any drawbacks to that?  I have a kit coming today and will use any decal techniques I can get.  Always struggled with decals, especially the long skinny ones that look perfect at the beginning and begin to go off course as you move your way down the decal.  Thanks for any help!

[KEV THE REV 2319]

I always use a little soapy water . I remove the backing paper and dip the decal / sticker into the water and also dip my finger in the water and dab it across the area that the decal is going to be applied . Position the decal ( the soapy water will allow a bit of repositioning ) and then dab the decal area lightly with a tissue to dry the excess water off , light warmth from a hair drier helps to dry it all off :)

[Cephas 530]

Are you sure your not getting confused with the tattoos we put on as a kid lol

[Truck Norris 2237]

Yes, Tamiya actually suggest this method for the Merc 190E. I use it all the time, it works perfectly. No downsides other than getting wet fingers  

[superted 121]

Deffo the method to use.

I use it all the time works great.

[geniusanthony 361]

I use Windex same theory though. A bit of hairdryer heat for compound curves helps as well. I did a vid on my Blackfoot body if it helps. See my sig line for channel.

On 5/5/2020 at 11:20 AM, A-Baum said:

 

 

On 5/5/2020 at 11:20 AM, A-Baum said:

really dial in their location without committing the first time it hits the shell

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[Wood Duck 19 10]

Wish I knew this. The hairdryer idea is interesting. Is there a lag time between applying the stickers and using the hairdryer, does it have to be straight after?

[mtbkym01 4008]

You can use a hairdryer anytime on the stickers. I’ve used heat on bodies that are quite old that have had peeling stickers. Works very well. Word of warning if it’s a styrene body, be very careful not to get too much heat happening (particularly if using a heat gun) as the body can deform.

[Wood Duck 19 10]

Thanks for that great to know.

[ChrisRx718 4470]

Use the green fairy liquid without the fancy scent or stuff to make your hands soft, apparently these can be a bit greasy and don't work as well. 

And make sure you have really clean hands 

A cotton-bud to press decals into hard-to-reach corners is also useful (heat up then press down)

Don't be tempted to use your fingernail to encourage a decal into a corner / get rid of an airbubble. You'll either stretch the decal or worse; split it. Ask me how I know!

The only time soapy water has let me down is on the larger 'window' decals which are transparent / semi-transparent. If soapy water gets trapped under the 'glass' and you can't squeegee it to the edge with your fingers and thumbs, it's stuck there. Probably my fault - only use a small amount of soapy water!!

[Big Jon 684]

I use ammonia-free glass cleaner and a heat gun. Tamiya makes tiny q-tips that are great for working the decal into surface detail.

Super clean hands (dish soap, then an alcohol soaked rag), spritz the decal, then the body, slide into place, squeegee the bubbles out, a little heat, a little burnish, done!

[SupraChrgd82 1425]

I always use the soapy water technique for decals (this coming from a guy who loves decals and the racer-boy look on cars and motorcycles).  It's about the only way to keep window decals transparent and blister-free. 

1) Wash hands and the body well to remove dust and oils

2) 2-3 drops of soap in a 8x8" Tupperware and fill 1/2" deep with aerated water to get suds

3) Peel the decal, dip in the suds or the water (depending on how big the decal is)

4) Slide the decal into place and gently press the center of the decal to get a slight bond

5) Squee-gee the water out with a soft cloth starting in the center of the decal to prevent blisters under the decal

6) Leave the body in the sun for a day to dry the adhesive 

7) Squee-gee one more time with a soft cloth one ore time to adhere any edges I may have missed

 

[Otis311 196]

As ChrisRx718 said, be careful with transparent window decals. I messed up a nearly flawless Dynahead. Ended up with cloudy bubbles in the windows. This specific body has raised trim around the windows which instantly sealed the edge of the decal making squeegeeing very difficult.

I also have had issues with small decals over lumpy body details such as door handles. Just cant get the water out from underneath. They do dry out eventually though.

Also heating decals after application is an absolute game changer for getting them to stick to curved bodies. This has improved headlight decals 10000000%

I heat up every decal I put on a body now. It melts the adhesive which makes them adhere very well.

[Chad1376 52]

Be careful with when using soap 'n water to slide interior stickers (window masks.)  Be sure to thoroughly clean the soap residue from the interior before painting.  I didn't do this, and although the paint adheres OK, I can see some swirly discoloration in the paint.

[KEV THE REV 2319]

8 hours ago, mtbkym01 said:

(particularly if using a heat gun) as the body can deform

Yes mate , I learnt this very early on

[mtbkym01 4008]

3 hours ago, KEV THE REV said:

Yes mate , I learnt this very early on

Yep, ask me how I know