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dc-arena

Two versions of Hobbywing 10BL60?

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I've been looking at what to put in my XV01 when I start it soon, and this ESC, with a HW 17.5t seems a popular choice for lots of RC's.

Anyway, looking on Modelsport, there appears to be two models:

1. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-quicrun-10bl60-sensored-bl-esc/rc-car-products/382832

2. https://www.modelsport.co.uk/hobbywing-quicrun-wp-10bl60-bl-esc/rc-car-products/382833

They actually look like different ESCs as one is taller than the other, and the first one looks like it doesn't have any wiring for ESC/Battery at all, so you'd have to do it yourself. In all honesty, apart from the fear of soldering (my first iron arriving soon!), this actually be a better option since the XV01 needs longer cables to reach the front-mounted motor.

Weirdly, on the offical site, it looks like there is one model (without wires), so I am not really sure (or haven't looked properly ha!).

 

Anyone know for sure?

 

Thanks

Paul

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Hi,

The first one is for sensored and sensorless motors, and not waterproof.

The second one is for sensorless motors only and is waterproof.

So it depends on the motor you want to run and in what conditions.

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I have the second one, sensorless and water proof, in a Stampede right now,  paired with a 4 pole 3000kv motor.  I did run into some minor cogging and had to do some re-gearing.  Other than that,  I love the thing!  I am going to be getting the first one, sensored, to probably go into my TRF201 with the HW sensored motor I picked up recently.  Really looking forward to it.  I recommend getting the programming box.  Super simple and easy.

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I haven't tried the second one, but I have several of the first ones in different cars running 13.5t motors, as well as its big brother the 10BL120 in my Aqroshot running a 10.5t. All have worked flawlessly so far. They come with a good length of wire pre-soldered too - enough to reach the front-mounted motor on my FF-03 for example.

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Thanks guys. 
 

ah, from the photo, It looked like they didn’t come with wires at all (maybe that’s just for photography purposes).

I don’t really know why’d I want sensored over sensorless, is one smoother than the other?

Another question: If I had to lengthen the wires for the XV01, could you extend them using bullet connectors? I was actually thinking that (Maybe I am wrong here) that sometimes you can connect a motor and it runs backwards, so you swap any two cables. That would be a pain if you’d soldered them! So would bullets actually make sense?

I don’t need it to be waterproof. Although the XV01 is a rally car, it won’t never be submerged in water, just muddy and splashes (and the ESC area is sealed anyway). Maybe the sensored one is fine.

@TurnipJF Is it worth considering 120, or would 60 be enough? I assume that depends one what I have hooked up to it? One of their 17.5t motors, and 2S would be the spec. 

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50 minutes ago, dc-arena said:

Thanks guys. 
 

ah, from the photo, It looked like they didn’t come with wires at all (maybe that’s just for photography purposes).

I don’t really know why’d I want sensored over sensorless, is one smoother than the other?

Another question: If I had to lengthen the wires for the XV01, could you extend them using bullet connectors? I was actually thinking that (Maybe I am wrong here) that sometimes you can connect a motor and it runs backwards, so you swap any two cables. That would be a pain if you’d soldered them! So would bullets actually make sense?

I don’t need it to be waterproof. Although the XV01 is a rally car, it won’t never be submerged in water, just muddy and splashes (and the ESC area is sealed anyway). Maybe the sensored one is fine.

@TurnipJF Is it worth considering 120, or would 60 be enough? I assume that depends one what I have hooked up to it? One of their 17.5t motors, and 2S would be the spec. 

I was also pleasantly surprised by the wires when I bought my first one, as they don't show in any of the promotional photos that I've seen.

Sensored is smoother and quicker off the mark than sensorless, hence being the default choice for racers. However sensorless is simpler and therefore typically cheaper for the same level of performance, albeit not as refined. It is also easier to waterproof a sensorless setup.

The XV-01 uses a standard clockwise motor rotation, so you'll know beforehand where to connect the cables - A to blue, B to yellow and C to orange. You can thus hardwire them with no need for swappable connectors. Although Hobbywing motors typically come with integral bullet connectors - the things that look like gold-plated solder tabs are actually female bullets that slide on and off - so if this is the motor type you have in mind, you'll get cable swappability built in anyway.

If you are going for a 17.5t motor on 2S, you'll have plenty of headroom with the 10BL60, so that would be my suggestion. It is smaller and lighter than the 10BL120, thus easier to fit in the confines of the XV-01 electronics bay. No point fitting a heavier, bulkier, more expensive unit when you'll only be using less than half its potential.

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43 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

I was also pleasantly surprised by the wires when I bought my first one, as they don't show in any of the promotional photos that I've seen.

Sensored is smoother and quicker off the mark than sensorless, hence being the default choice for racers. However sensorless is simpler and therefore typically cheaper for the same level of performance, albeit not as refined. It is also easier to waterproof a sensorless setup.

The XV-01 uses a standard clockwise motor rotation, so you'll know beforehand where to connect the cables - A to blue, B to yellow and C to orange. You can thus hardwire them with no need for swappable connectors. Although Hobbywing motors typically come with integral bullet connectors - the things that look like gold-plated solder tabs are actually female bullets that slide on and off - so if this is the motor type you have in mind, you'll get cable swappability built in anyway.

If you are going for a 17.5t motor on 2S, you'll have plenty of headroom with the 10BL60, so that would be my suggestion. It is smaller and lighter than the 10BL120, thus easier to fit in the confines of the XV-01 electronics bay. No point fitting a heavier, bulkier, more expensive unit when you'll only be using less than half its potential.


Thanks, that’s very helpful information! 
I guess I just need to get it all together and see if the cables reach. I’ve just watched a YouTube video and they do indeed look fairly long, we will see if they reach enough for the XV01! I know some people move the ESC from the back of the car to the middle section, where the receiver normally sits, to get a bit more space. 

 

If it’s NOT long enough, is extending the wires with bullets ok to do, or would it be best to remove the wires and solder in 3 longer pieces? I assume making some extra long cables with 3 (or 4mm?) bullets would be OK, you wouldn’t lose power or anything from it not being 3 single  cables?

 

I am guessing although it had wires attached, it didn’t have bullets or battery connectors attached?
 

 

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26 minutes ago, dc-arena said:


Thanks, that’s very helpful information! 
I guess I just need to get it all together and see if the cables reach. I’ve just watched a YouTube video and they do indeed look fairly long, we will see if they reach enough for the XV01! I know some people move the ESC from the back of the car to the middle section, where the receiver normally sits, to get a bit more space. 

 

If it’s NOT long enough, is extending the wires with bullets ok to do, or would it be best to remove the wires and solder in 3 longer pieces? I assume making some extra long cables with 3 (or 4mm?) bullets would be OK, you wouldn’t lose power or anything from it not being 3 single  cables?

 

I am guessing although it had wires attached, it didn’t have bullets or battery connectors attached?
 

 

A good-quality bullet connector of the appropriate size securely soldered in place is hardly any different from a directly soldered joint in terms of resistance, so no, I see no reason not to use bullets to attach your extensions should you wish. For the chunky cables that come fitted to the 10BL60, I would suggest 4mm at least. You might struggle to fit the wires into anything smaller, even though 3.5mm would be quite up to the task of handling the current draw from a 17.5t motor.

And yes you are correct - they come with wires, but no connectors for motor or battery. However some model shops can attach these for a small fee if desired.

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18 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

A good-quality bullet connector of the appropriate size securely soldered in place is hardly any different from a directly soldered joint in terms of resistance, so no, I see no reason not to use bullets to attach your extensions should you wish. For the chunky cables that come fitted to the 10BL60, I would suggest 4mm at least. You might struggle to fit the wires into anything smaller, even though 3.5mm would be quite up to the task of handling the current draw from a 17.5t motor.

And yes you are correct - they come with wires, but no connectors for motor or battery. However some model shops can attach these for a small fee if desired.


Thanks again, very helpful info! :)

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7 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

A good-quality bullet connector of the appropriate size securely soldered in place is hardly any different from a directly soldered joint in terms of resistance, so no, I see no reason not to use bullets to attach your extensions should you wish. For the chunky cables that come fitted to the 10BL60, I would suggest 4mm at least. You might struggle to fit the wires into anything smaller, even though 3.5mm would be quite up to the task of handling the current draw from a 17.5t motor.

And yes you are correct - they come with wires, but no connectors for motor or battery. However some model shops can attach these for a small fee if desired.

Quick question: Are they 12 gauge wires that come with the 10BL60? Just so I can match the extension wires, if needed. 

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