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BIGWORM

First Tamiya! TT-02SR

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The soft plastic battery posts are very easy to strip even with careful tigtening of the screws. You can get alloy ones which look nicer and ought to last a lifetime. Quite a few manufacturers make them. Here is an example:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blue-alloy-battery-posts-for-Tamiya-TT-02-TT02-1-10-RC-car/402154978299

 

A small drop of cyanoacrylate on the threads of the hinge pin grub screw might be a good idea. The grub screw isn't under significant load - all it needs to do is stop the hinge pin from sliding out - but you don't want it to fall out and get lost while running as something that small is very hard to find again. Just be careful not to get any on the hinge pin itself.

 

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43 minutes ago, BIGWORM said:

Getting there! The mst shocks won’t be staying. I just slapped them on to see it. I still have to build the Tamiya ones. 

While I’m not done yet. This was fun to build. I had a few bolts strip out though. = (

The battery posts, one of them; the bolt just keep spinning. And one of the front lower control arms hing pins locking barrel nuts just spins. Both are attached and working. But I was carful to not over tighten. Kinda bummed about that. But it is what it is.

I’ve got more to do, but i should be done soon. 
 

 

 

802F9827-C9EE-414E-9140-AAD1EDA2FC6A.jpeg

53D0498D-653C-441E-AF40-F3FBF40F98FE.jpeg

Have bigger pics? What dampers are those?

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8 minutes ago, Nicadraus said:

Have bigger pics? What dampers are those?

Those are off my MST RMX drifter. Well they were the stock ones. I just tried them on since I hadn’t assembled the Tamiya ones yet. 
 

 

310339C3-8611-473C-908A-1462B1B87CC7.jpeg

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38 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

The soft plastic battery posts are very easy to strip even with careful tigtening of the screws. You can get alloy ones which look nicer and ought to last a lifetime. Quite a few manufacturers make them. Here is an example:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Blue-alloy-battery-posts-for-Tamiya-TT-02-TT02-1-10-RC-car/402154978299

 

A small drop of cyanoacrylate on the threads of the hinge pin grub screw might be a good idea. The grub screw isn't under significant load - all it needs to do is stop the hinge pin from sliding out - but you don't want it to fall out and get lost while running as something that small is very hard to find again. Just be careful not to get any on the hinge pin itself.

 

 Thank you. I will most likely but every metal part I can for this thing. 

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9 minutes ago, BIGWORM said:

 Thank you. I will most likely but every metal part I can for this thing. 

There are a lot of blue alloy metal parts available for it, many of which look very pretty, but they aren't always the best option from a functional perspective. Some parts work best in metal alloy, some are best in steel, some are better in carbon fibre and others better in plastic. So I'd say take a look at a top-level racing chassis like the latest TRF for example, and see what material is used there, then choose the same for your hop-up. Shock towers seem to be best in carbon fibre for example, lower suspension arms in plastic, uprights in alloy, drive pins in steel, etc.

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That looks v cool 

im mid assembly of my durga dB-01 but then I may move onto the TT02 SR

Awaiting delivery of my driveshaft and cups as out of stock with modelsport 

Can’t wait 

JJ

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Almost done! Is it normal to have tons of plastic parts left? I’ve got some plastic brake rotor/hex’s (used the metal ones) and a few other parts that look like they might work for other versions of the TT02?

ive just got to move the servo forward a few mm and plug everything in and I should be ready for a test run.

 

 

9143A1F4-941E-4DBF-83BC-651AB859B826.jpeg

CA35A3F1-8111-4B88-8417-EE748A7DEFFA.jpeg

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Yeah - because the hop you parts replace them

do the metal hex come with the kit?

i want the hex disk rotors for my Porsche 

JJ

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3 minutes ago, Problemchild said:

Yeah - because the hop you parts replace them

do the metal hex come with the kit?

i want the hex disk rotors for my Porsche 

JJ

Gotcha. Thank you.

Yes the kit did come with metal hex’s. I wish it came with the metal drive shaft though. Seems odd that left that out.

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Yeah - there are some glaring omissions but then it’s not loads more than say a subaru WRC BUT keep the box and spares and instructions and selling in a few years you will get a lot more back than you would from the scooby

JJ

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10 hours ago, BIGWORM said:

Those are off my MST RMX drifter. Well they were the stock ones. I just tried them on since I hadn’t assembled the Tamiya ones yet. 
 

 

310339C3-8611-473C-908A-1462B1B87CC7.jpeg

Well that looks better than the stock CVA shocks to be honest.

Funny how Tamiya plays tricks on the consumers. They've added two pieces of aluminum turnbuckles for the rear camber adjustment while leaving all other turnbuckles to steel. Aluminum turnbuckles are cheap and could have at least made them all in aluminum to compensate for the center shaft downgrade.

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It’s done! This thing handles very well! And the 2500kv brushless motor and 21T pinion works out pretty good. Lots or torque and enough top end until I get my high speed spur and mess with the gearing. I ran it up and down the street for what felt like 20 minutes and it keep going. That was nice. 

What an enjoyable build! Plus all the parts I removed from my MST RMX drifter (R34 Body, ESC, motor, receiver/transmitter and servo) were recycled into this and fit perfectly. Score!

Seems my photos keep go sideways (at least on my iPhone) so here’s a link to the finished build. Well, almost finished. I have other hop ups coming.

Pics and video.

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Im gutted - been putting mine together today and the whole B bag is missing.

i have no screws, no drive shafts, no shock towers :(

ive never even had a c clio missing in a tamiya kit

i can only assume this is something that’s happened in the shop and not at tamiya themselves 

JJ

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That sucks! Sorry to hear that. ****.
 

Mine broke and then we had a water leak at home so I’m out of commission for awhile.

I was driving mine up and down the street and the rear end bottomed out and I broke the metal bar that holds the lower rear arms in place. I couldn’t find the part number for that part that appears to only come on the SR version so I purchased the yeah racing adjustable rear suspension mount. Just waiting the month to get it.

I was rather disappointed the stock part broke. It was metal and I didn’t even jump the car. I hit a dip or whoop de woo in the road and the rear bottomed out and ripped that metal connection plate in 1/2. 
 

Hope you get yours parts sooner than later. What a bummer!

 

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Thanks mate - I’ll see what modelsport say 

the cynic in me would say that the missing bag is the totally of the upgrades for the  TT02 and an easy thing to go missing 

JJ

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@Modelsport are being less than their normal swift selves in replying 

I’m gonna be devastated if this can’t be resolved as I’ll be left with a really expensive bog basic tt02 kit with half the bits missing and not motor, pinion, shell or tyres :(

JJ

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On 5/12/2020 at 11:28 AM, Nicadraus said:

 

The Graphene and the Zippy have bullet sockets but also come with adapters. The graphene has an obvious punch especially when used on-road. But for bashing and rallying, very little difference really.

The graphene has more punch because of its discharge rate and capacity, it’s nothing to do with the graphene. 
 

5000mah x 90c graphene pack  = 450A possible discharge rate

4000mah x 25c zippy pack = 100A possible discharge

initial punch is related to how much energy you can obtain instantly, if there isn’t enough current, there’s not as much punch. 
 

how is that graphene pack going? I bought 6 graphene packs, none of them lasted more than 10-15 charges, before either dropping a cell or dramatically losing performance. I’ve got old 30c standard lipo’s still going strong after many 100’s of charges of charges. Seems to me the graphene thing still has a long way to go, A few of the manufacturers ended up having clearance sales of 90% off on their graphene packs, no warranty of course lol.

hope yours keeps going, I lost a lot of money on them. 
 

Bigworm, glad to see you here, Tamiya’s have their ups and down, the TT02S is one of my favorite cars on my shelf, I’m surprised to hear about the part you broke. Mine gets used as a bash drifter/tag/demo derby and for the most part it holds up pretty well. Hope you get her up and running soon! 

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On 6/8/2020 at 2:46 AM, BIGWORM said:

That sucks! Sorry to hear that. ****.
 

Mine broke and then we had a water leak at home so I’m out of commission for awhile.

I was driving mine up and down the street and the rear end bottomed out and I broke the metal bar that holds the lower rear arms in place. I couldn’t find the part number for that part that appears to only come on the SR version so I purchased the yeah racing adjustable rear suspension mount. Just waiting the month to get it.

I was rather disappointed the stock part broke. It was metal and I didn’t even jump the car. I hit a dip or whoop de woo in the road and the rear bottomed out and ripped that metal connection plate in 1/2. 
 

Hope you get yours parts sooner than later. What a bummer!

 

Wow what part broke? Can you post a picture please.

I've just built one to rally and have been throwing it around fields with no damage so far. I imagine yours is a rocket with that brushless set up. I raced back in mid 2000 and know just how much quicker they are than Tamiya stock 540 brushed motors. 

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1 hour ago, hedge said:

Wow what part broke? Can you post a picture please.

I've just built one to rally and have been throwing it around fields with no damage so far. I imagine yours is a rocket with that brushless set up. I raced back in mid 2000 and know just how much quicker they are than Tamiya stock 540 brushed motors. 

The metal bar that holds the rear suspension together. I circled it in red. Its like pot metal. I guess it dragged hitting the road on a whop de woo and sheered in half. One side was still connected. The other broke around the bolt and flew off. 

Tamiya has it listed as a "rear suspension mount" but I could not find the PN for that actual piece anywhere. And whatever the S or R uses looks different than the SR. I didnt want to buy the S or R version and not have all the right pieces, so I got the yeah racing one as seen here.

https://www.rcmart.com/yeah-racing-aluminum-rear-adjustable-suspension-mount-for-tt-02-rwd-drift-tatt-s03-blue-tatt-019bu-00081267

IMG_2757.jpg

 

 

Speed wise, its actually not that fast. With the 2500KV motor and 21T pinion, I hit maximum of 18MPH. It takes off REAL quick though! Excellent dig out of the hole. Mid range stout. But top end wise it dies off quick.

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Wow. Did not think it would be that part! Must of clunked it just at the wrong angle.

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25 minutes ago, hedge said:

Wow. Did not think it would be that part! Must of clunked it just at the wrong angle.

I was shocked too. But the rear of the tray is flush with that piece and the tray had some scraps that ran into that metal bar. Once I replace it the mount, I will put something on the tray to take the hit and keep that rear bar from touching ground if it bottoms out again.

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modelsport have spoken to tamiya and everyone agrees this shouldn’t have happened and QC would 100% pick this up.

so it can only have happened whilst in transit or in storage/packing

however bag B is not able to be sourced separately

they have agreed that I should return the model if I am unhappy with it. 
 

hopefully I’ll be able to get a replacement 

 

after building the initial steps, i literally have a grub screw from a pinion left and that’s it :(

 

JJ

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3 hours ago, Problemchild said:

modelsport have spoken to tamiya and everyone agrees this shouldn’t have happened and QC would 100% pick this up.

so it can only have happened whilst in transit or in storage/packing

however bag B is not able to be sourced separately

they have agreed that I should return the model if I am unhappy with it. 
 

hopefully I’ll be able to get a replacement 

 

after building the initial steps, i literally have a grub screw from a pinion left and that’s it :(

 

JJ

Modelsport are usually pretty good with returns in my experience. Hopefully they'll get you sorted soon.

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