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junglemonkey

Monster Beetle universal shaft, rear axel popping out

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Hi guys,

Took my Monster Beetle out for only its 2nd run today but had to cut my fun short due to the universal shaft popping out of the gearbox joint (short end). Put it back in and checked it but happened again when I ran the car. Opened up the gearbox to check all was ok i there, which it was and put it all back together again. Only managed a slow test run indoors as it was too late to try outside but seemed ok. Back wheels did seem a bit shaky tho when I ran it while holding them off the floor and I’m half expecting it to pop out again tomorrow when I try a proper test drive. Is there anything I’ve possibly done wrong or anything I can do to stop the shaft from popping out in the future? I’m pretty new to RC so please don’t bamboozle me with technical speak! 

Thanks 

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This is a known flaw. Sorry you had to experience it. If you do a search for the MB rerelease thread, you’ll learn a lot. 

I’ll see if I can find it...

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Brilliant thanks FJumper, I did notice that the screws in the P plate weren’t binding anymore and were just going round, so I’ve replaced them with longer screws which now bite so perhaps along with adjusting the shock length this may fix my issue. If not I will try the Tamiya 9808038 (pair of dogbones) and Tamiya 9808039 (pair of rear axles) and keep my fingers crossed. Just need to find somewhere which has them in stock and doesn’t cost the earth for delivery for small parts, and doesn’t take an age to get here cause of covid-19!

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This is the reason i ended up selling me re re beetle. I tried everything from mip ball diff, buying old team crp parts to supposedly hold them in and even swapped out the unis for frog dogbones. Im sure there is other things i did but forget. It didnt matter what i did, its a shame cause as a kid as soon as i switched to a thorp ball diff it solved the same problem. 

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Shim the short gearbox outdrive iside ist fit in the bevel gear, so that there is no "short" outdrive anymore and both equal length. Then get you topforce rear springs for the rear, to get a proper suspension that has a little sag and build the rear shocks to the proper length of the original Monster beetle and you can stay with the much better cardans. Using the old frogshot mod from here in the forum makes the diff bombproof. Little bit of work, but then you have a real reliable runner. Mine is running for almost 9 years on brushless (17,5T) with the Rere cardans, everything is still fine, although my trailing arms have in the meantime decent play in the gearbox. Despite of that, I never had a popped out driveshaft.

Kind regards,

Matthias

 

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On 5/19/2020 at 6:07 AM, ruebiracer said:

Shim the short gearbox outdrive iside ist fit in the bevel gear, so that there is no "short" outdrive anymore and both equal length.

That's what I ended up doing. It allowed me to shim just enough that it didn't pop out but not so much that the unis bound up when the suspension is mid travel.

I found using o rings caused binding like that. Smooth for most of the suspension travel but at mid point the dog bones got squeezed so so the suspension had a tight spot.

 

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Well having swapped out the small screws on the ‘P’ plate the issue seems to have resolved itself. They were obviously causing the back axels to have slightly too much travel as it wasn’t tight enough causing it to pop out, being a newbie to all of this some of the advice is a little over my head to be honest but thanks for getting back to me. Eg what is shimming?

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Shimming is just adding thin washers («shims») to a shaft to remove play.

Shim - Wikipedia

You can get them from hardware stores, or buy special Tamiya ones: Ebay - Tamiya Shims

Just make sure you get the right dimension for where you need to put them. And since they´re super thin, you might need a few.

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