Jump to content
matisse

(Aqro)Shot to the Heart! - DT03 T/B

Recommended Posts

After seeing your painted shell with the clear rear deck I've decided to buy myself an Aqroshot as well ☺ 

  • Thanks 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

big set of updates coming....all the remaining hop ups arrived

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The placeholder screw pins for the front can now as the 3x22m low friction pins are here. They feel and look noticeably different from the stainless hingepins.

9048BCD5-3841-48B6-9D73-AB30A7658D41.jpg

 No need to shim the lower mount of the C-hub on either side, and using turnbuckle left me with 2 spare pins, so used them on the steering knuckles. Needed to add a 2mm spacer, so put that at the top, and needed 0.6mm of shims to remove the play between the knuckle and the C-Hub.  Fitted they are very smooth and make the steering a whole lot more slop free.

95EF8077-D8FD-4658-B3D1-9B4B62514C66.jpg

Front and Rear Carbon shock towers got a light coat of CA glue to seal before installing.

C6B14AF9-D557-44A6-85CF-31CD4965F920.jpg

150F7E65-EE0B-40B1-808E-9DAB6C676BC7.jpg

979B62E6-A5A3-4BF7-8026-07719389317F.jpg

Also picked up the bottom damper mount screws, which are pretty smart looking tbh.

96CCB6DB-753C-402D-AEE1-E8A5234E9BBC.jpg

The Durango Big Bores come with nice plastic standoffs that you simply bolt through.

F81D1862-18AD-413F-B659-0D628ADE2777.jpg

6979FCFF-89FB-4082-BA9E-93F76F1A0CCD.jpg

But as you can see, a slight issue, the springs rub the turnbuckle. Solution is to pop a 2mm spacer under the inner ball stud to space it out slightly.

7B235529-1F2F-4363-BD1F-7029510C36F4.jpg

et voila.

9C54CEC2-5F80-465D-B633-A4F445E149A4.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

now for the rears....much bigger issues, there is very little room for anything larger than the std cva shocks without fouling the turnbuckle. solution is to move the outer ball stud to the rear of the hub.

99E84BF3-E485-456A-A35B-48D623641356.jpg

It's a crazy angle, but not the worst i've seen.... but another 2mm spacer behind the inner ball stud makes it a little better. the gearbox will foul the ball cup if you use more, i tried.

6C9265B9-3802-4659-B18A-0D1BE53EEBAE.jpg

Solid as a rock and it moves super freely, so i have no issues here. We also have more of the thread to work with for adjustments and longer arms on the rear which i'm sure will change the handling, lets see!

047FFA83-C2C5-4A8B-B404-B52E10BC283C.jpg

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Lets shim some wheels!!!  the usual play in the CVD drive shafts, 0.5mm binds it up so went with a 0.3mm shim. placed it on the inside of the inner bearing, hoping to avoid dirt etc building up behind it and fouling the bearing. also felt smoother than placing it directly between the CVD and the outer face,

942B2662-9C9D-4516-99B9-1C8869CA6841.jpg

Same needed for the front. Weirdly there is space for a 0.5mm shim to stop the front wheels wobbling, without it the nut bottomed out on the axle without securing the wheel.

Tyre wise, Stagger rib yellow up front and Zee 2 Blue at the rear.

739C8EDA-FFA1-483B-81DB-A08F9F1F6766.jpg

A3760913-77A8-4080-B0CF-4AC73253C705.jpg

 

Better pics soon.  now does anyone wanna buy it?

 

 

 

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Once again I’ve competed a build and instantly known that I’ve not built it for me. It’s okay though as I love the build process, so I def get something from the experience.  But to fund the next build, this one must move on.
 

FS over in the sale/trades  section.

  • Confused 1
  • Sad 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks for an entertaining build and a shim lesson - need to spend some time removing slop from my cars. I have the bits but haven’t tried. Hope you find a new owner for JBJ (the name it would get if I owned it) and you get a new build you can share with us!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Badcrumble said:

Thanks for an entertaining build and a shim lesson - need to spend some time removing slop from my cars. I have the bits but haven’t tried. Hope you find a new owner for JBJ (the name it would get if I owned it) and you get a new build you can share with us!

Thanks bud!

its weird to think this way but for me the fun is often in the journey, the build and the problem solving.  Eventually I’ll start racing again and all of that focus can go on making the car work, but until then I’ll keep building.

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, Superluminal said:

Did you miss it too much?

I did.  Plus it looks as though racing this year will be outdoors, so why not kill two birds with one stone?

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Absolutely - after the amount of care you put into this build it ended up pretty unique so was a bit of a shock when before the paint was dry you felt like selling it. Is it still in the condition you let it go in or does it need some TLC?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
25 minutes ago, Superluminal said:

Absolutely - after the amount of care you put into this build it ended up pretty unique so was a bit of a shock when before the paint was dry you felt like selling it. Is it still in the condition you let it go in or does it need some TLC?

:)

im waiting on pics, but he claims he hasn’t run it much, so fingers crossed.

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Back in the fold as of yesterday, looks like it was hardly run the past year. :)

  • Like 3

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

So plans for this are for to become an actual race truck, gonna go mess things up amongst  the T6.2’s and Schumacher Storms, should be fun.

Yes it would be cheaper to just buy a more race orientated truck, but frankly I’ll have more fun with this, than I would with the same truck everyone else has, also they have far too many set-up options for someone of my level.

Talking of setup, the servo is fine, but I’ll be putting a 10.5t brushless in, so I should at least not get lapped too many times.

To help with that power, a ball diff is on the way, I’m amazed that is basically still the Top Force diff design, intact the DT-02 one appears to be the TA-03 without the extra gears. Also changing out all the bearings for ABEC 5 sealed units .

1B328F95-08F7-4D4B-B935-B50CEFDC944C.jpg

 I’ve grabbed the reinforced M-Parts tree for some stiffer damper stays, cos I will crash at some point.

Lastly I need to switch out the dampers, these Durango Big Bores are good, but I'm not convinced on the adjustments to the camber links, plus the front dampers are too long, measuring almost 90mm, which hugely effects the ride height.  I’ll probably grab some DF03/aeration shocks 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

have been looking at @ThunderDragonCy rear hubs on shapeways, they look to be a great solution.
Are SW based in Europe? £17 is a lot of shipping. 

Other parts wise ended up finding a TA03 ball diff and some of the HCCA lightweight balls, which is nice. And am playing the plaza customs roulette on a set of aeration shocks with a spring set and X-ring seals. If I get a bill will work out the same as a set off the DF03 dampers alone off of them bay. If not, then I’ve saved even more money, so win win.

M Parts not in stock yet, but have an alert from Modelsport set up. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

@matisse Yeah Shapeways prices and shipping have got pretty ridiculous recently. I am trying to find other options, but although i have used a really good uk supplier, they have a £48 minimum order so it needs lots of parts to make sense. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
43 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

@matisse Yeah Shapeways prices and shipping have got pretty ridiculous recently. I am trying to find other options, but although i have used a really good uk supplier, they have a £48 minimum order so it needs lots of parts to make sense. 

Could we do a bulk order for the rear hubs? I'd take a set, I'm sure @Bunty would too.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 minute ago, B.RAD said:

Could we do a bulk order for the rear hubs? I'd take a set, I'm sure @Bunty would too.

Not a bad idea! Checked and shipping is the same for multiple hubs, so it does make a huge difference. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Plaza Japan came today and for the first time zero customs fees! 

Went with the TRF201 spring set as I figured that might be more 2wd specific
 

AA5C6F81-8BCB-486E-BD9B-C0374C0646F4.md.

 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Had a little time yesterday so went back to look at the steering knuckles. The 0.6mm of spacers never really solved all of the slop, probably about 0.7/0.8mm space in total. 
 

Rather than add another small shim decided to do a little dremel work and fit a 1mm alloy spacer. Much better slop wise and has vastly improved the bump steer as well. 

B00384DD-7695-40EB-B41B-C6B49016D31A.md.

4714558B-E301-4EAB-994A-D4090B0887A3.md.

 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Started on the dampers tonight, trimming pieces and drilling out the bleep caps.

really nice piece of kit, reinforced plastic and well machined alloy parts.

B07F8F97-F910-4E81-A266-2230C2025E5E.md.
 

8FBC5A53-4A57-4010-BB91-A0F73C27501B.md.
 

carefully drilled out the caps, well three of them anyway...a fraction of a seconds loss of concentration and I popped through the top of the 4th, which of course makes it useless as it’s an aeration shock....sigh

There is a spare parts code it seems (from the trf 415&501), but it’s not in stock anywhere....double sigh

on the off chance they fit I’ve ordered a set of TRF shock bladders, and see if I can convert the shocks into bladder style instead of emulsion.

 

  • Sad 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
4 hours ago, Toad16v said:

Could you fill the hole with something like jb weld and redrill?

Potentially, im just wary of the fact that this will be under compression so the pressure could easily burst any repair. Found out from Sir Anthony of Tamiya that they discontinued the spare caps 2 years ago.....but I have heard that the trf bladders should work 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...