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steffiemorris

Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 ESC questions

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Hi, just recently started doing something again with my Falcon after 33years of sitting in a box somewhere, the first thing i did was by some batterypacks and a quicrun 1060 ESC.
I do have some questions about the ESC, maybe some of you already have experience with the speedcontroller and know about it.
First thing i had to after installation was turn my throttle stick 180 degrees in my old Robbe Compact 27Mhz transmitter. Apparently the modern ESC's are 'the other way around' with regards to how transmitters were setup in the old-age :)

I tried the different settings for Forward/brake/reverse, and when i set it to F/B/R you can do a free-roll forward and do a controlled break on the first pull back to break. on the second reverse movement it starts in reverse, but it does only half speed reverse.
Question(1): Is it correct that in the F/B/R setting the reverse speed is only about halfspeed?
Question(2): When in F/B/R setting it makes a pitched noise if going forward or reverse, it seems like this is on purpose?

When i set it to F/R i do get full speed reverse, which is good! but i do loos the 'free rolling' movement. If you release the throttle it automatically breaks.
Question(3) can i set it up in a way that there is still free rolling movement? If i do want to break, i'll just hit reverse, just like you did with the old mechanical speed controllers.

Just curious how you all use your ESC's and/or do you use different ones for vintage Tamiya models?

 

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I use 1060 a lot now and I find it good on FBR , . When running and wanting to brake , a quick dab on reverse is fine , more harsher brake is a dab on reverse then a quick second dab on reverse , or hold the first dab for more even / slow braking

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On 5/22/2020 at 8:20 PM, steffiemorris said:

Question(1): Is it correct that in the F/B/R setting the reverse speed is only about halfspeed?
Question(2): When in F/B/R setting it makes a pitched noise if going forward or reverse, it seems like this is on purpose?

1 , yes

2 yes .

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2 minutes ago, KEV THE REV said:

1 , yes

2 yes . I think it is to do with the internal resistor absorbing the volts at low speed rather like the old ceramic resistors did

if the ESC is on F/R it doesn't make the pitched noise, so i guess it is just something electronic from the buzzer? just like the resetting sound when you just turn it on?

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In f/b/r , there's no, Drag Brake, so it will, free wheel, in neutral.

The, Drag Brake, is an automatic brake, (that with a programmable esc, you can alter the strength off) that activates in the neutral position.

In f/r , there is a ,drag brake , so neutral is the brake, but you can pass through and go straight into reverse. This is the setting I use as, I find the drag brake is stronger than the brakes of f/b/r, and I can also alter the ,end point , on my transmitter for reverse, effectively giving me adjustable brakes (But really it's reverse), because I do this, I've no idea of the reverse speeds! 

It does go half speed in forward, when close to the lipo cut off, guess it's to give you a heads up, and a chance to drive it back to your feet.

There is no,  internal buzzer, on the 1060, the beeps come from the motor. (I believe it sends a for / rev signal, quick enough that the motor makes a beep, but doesn't actually move.)

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Tnx! Learned some new things today. I guess with the modern electronic components nowadays a programmable ESC would be a nice upgrade. Then i would be able to disable the automatic brake. (no real need for a car as the falcon to have that :)

About the noise, i didn't know it was from the motor. I thought it was strange it didn't do that F/B/R mode, but seems logic now. As that mode really has a neutral, and the F/R doesn't. I noticed that the motor get's hot even though the car is standing still. So it seems like there are continuous alternating signals to the motor to put in in drag.

So (hypothetically) what would be a wishlist/birthday list item for future ESC updates? any recommendations? :)

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12 hours ago, Wooders28 said:

There is no,  internal buzzer, on the 1060, the beeps come from the motor. (I believe it sends a for / rev signal, quick enough that the motor makes a beep, but doesn't actually move.)

After all this time I thought it came from the ESC , I never paid too much attention to where the noise came from . I got schooled today I pleased to say

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41 minutes ago, KEV THE REV said:

After all this time I thought it came from the ESC , I never paid too much attention to where the noise came from . I got schooled today I pleased to say

I plugged motors into a 1060 last weekend, to test them before I listed on eBay, one smoked in time with the beeps, as I switched it on! 

I'm only a week ahead of you! 🙄😂😂

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2 hours ago, steffiemorris said:

So (hypothetically) what would be a wishlist/birthday list item for future ESC updates? any recommendations? :)

The upgrade from the 1060, is the 1080, which is programmable (and 80amp, not 60, like the urm, 1060)

But they're quite pricey (imo), and for a similar price, you can get a fairly decent ,programmable, brushless 120amp (hobbywing 10bl120) esc.

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and would a programmable ESC like the 10bl120 also support brushed motors? Or is that always something to keep separated? My motor now is the original one that came with the car when i got it, I think.

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17 hours ago, steffiemorris said:

and would a programmable ESC like the 10bl120 also support brushed motors? Or is that always something to keep separated? My motor now is the original one that came with the car when i got it, I think.

No,

Well,not that I know of, it does support either sensored or sensorless brushless motors.

I'd run the 1060 as is, but with a modern radio  (EPA, throttle/steering curve adjustment etc)  then a Lipo to upgrade,  then look at a faster brushed motor (the 1060 will run down to a 12t). 

@KEV THE REV

Did a wee vid 😀

 

 

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