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Manix92

Zahhak DN-01 new build.

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4 hours ago, GTodd said:

Very nice build, I'm living vicariously through you until mine arrived. Are you going to upgrade to Aeration or big bore shocks?

Cheers, it's painful without the paint. Nearly took it outside for a spin today but managed to quash the idea.

Can see myself messing the paint up now after waiting weeks and weeks for it, oh the irony. Repeat start again.

 

Aeration is def going to be the upgrade, tickled with the idea of big bore but I thought I better draw the line somewhere. If I plough too much money in this (and it's hard not to because it begs for them) I will be too scared to use the thing. At the moment Aeration seem to be out of stock at most places without spending a fortune.

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While it's on my mind I think there is a mistake in the DN-01 manual. The screw called-up for the front damper stay does not match the picture. So if you use the picture to check screw lengths there could be a problem with the screw bottoming out. See pic below

iZZ9Cen.jpg

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Right back to the build and this is where we got to. Starting to look car like :D

No slipper clutch on, that will have to wait till later. Waiting on delivery of

Tamiya 54260 (op1260) DN-01 Slipper Clutch

Tamiya 53640 (op640) 5mm Aluminium Ball Nut (Blue)

Tamiya 54016 (op1016) DB01 Assembly Universal Shaft (Rear)

But I will continue and add them later.

tsyrqle.jpg

So rear dampers done (and actually at some point these will get upgraded to the Aeration units

4xNgjPC.jpg

And then the front dampers done. I thought initially the springs front and back felt quite hard. But later when everything is on they don't.

WvOhsFc.jpg

XfFatDG.jpg

Being that I now need to upload more pictures I will draw it to a close for today.

 

 

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Going to build mine soon. Need motor and pinion, servo, esc, and paint. It looks like you’re building yours without those as well for the moment ? 

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5 hours ago, Manix92 said:

While it's on my mind I think there is a mistake in the DN-01 manual. The screw called-up for the front damper stay does not match the picture. So if you use the picture to check screw lengths there could be a problem with the screw bottoming out. See pic below

iZZ9Cen.jpg

I think I remember having this issue also. just had a quick look at my manual and same here...

From memory there was some other screws to watch out for BA3/BB7 which are 1mm difference but you’re past that.

Greg

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18 hours ago, gregdogghurst said:

I think I remember having this issue also. just had a quick look at my manual and same here...

From memory there was some other screws to watch out for BA3/BB7 which are 1mm difference but you’re past that.

Greg

Yeah I thought they may be others but couldn't remember. I've been out of the hobby for sometime so am quite glad I built the rising fighter for my daughter before this. It was like a training course before the real job.

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23 hours ago, rwordenjr said:

Going to build mine soon. Need motor and pinion, servo, esc, and paint. It looks like you’re building yours without those as well for the moment ? 

Hope the build goes well for you when you get started.

I have the motor, pinion and servo it's just the paint and a few hop-ups I can add later I am waiting delivery on. If you look at the second post on the thread it shows what has been ordered and delivered.

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So a bit more on the build then.

Time to get the pinion and motor on. Firstly as previously seen I have gone for the 79T spur in the kit. The 77T is a option I can add at any time. From a previous thread asking the community which ratio the feedback was to go for something like 8.5 to start. Using a 24T pinion this gives me a 8.56

Rdr266d.jpg

So time to get the motor out....... Superstock BZ. 

GoXxkIC.jpg

I have decided to go with the dust cover. Hopefully this doesn't make it run too hot.

ypM7chr.jpg

Motor fitted.

d446Ph2.jpg

092Ct7B.jpg

Dust cover for spur/pinion/slip clutch if fitted. As you can see the recess in the hop-up motor plate is just enough to stop a clear gap for muck to get in. If you use the standard motor plated issued with the kit a lot of muck is going to get in. Still even with the hop-up it is not perfect and some may consider sealing it further.

I think the only way Tamiya could fix the warping is either use a cooling jig on the part or modify the tool.

gcR8Qxw.jpg

Just to explain a cooling jig for injection moulded parts. As soon a part is ejected from the tool you insert it in a cooling jig which has water running through it. So the jig I designed below was used to stop the mould parts warping like a banana and keep them straight.

hbxyRNY.jpg

Next time to get all the electrics out and wired up.

M5vzGLB.jpg

And the moment of truth, a test without the wheels on. Does it all work? Thankfully yes

shwguog.jpg

And there I will leave it for today.

 

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Looking forward to seeing the end result. I’m going to put a 4300kv motor in mine and hopefully it’ll fly. Trying to figure out which pinion would be best 

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2 hours ago, rwordenjr said:

Looking forward to seeing the end result. I’m going to put a 4300kv motor in mine and hopefully it’ll fly. Trying to figure out which pinion would be best 

For a 4300kv motor that's around 8.5-9.5 equivalent turns, so you want a FDR around 9 to start with. Try the 22t or 23t pinuon options. If you look at the gearing chart in the back of your manual you will see they give you gearing a little bit either side of 9.

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51 minutes ago, ThunderDragonCy said:

For a 4300kv motor that's around 8.5-9.5 equivalent turns, so you want a FDR around 9 to start with. Try the 22t or 23t pinuon options. If you look at the gearing chart in the back of your manual you will see they give you gearing a little bit either side of 9.

Yes, here’s the chart. 

ED324CE9-27D1-4241-BC72-0E2745ECBA77.png

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Continuing with the build next up is getting the servo fitted. I found no issues with fitting the Ripmax Quartz QZ501 Servo digital. I didn't need the 0.2 shim washers for fitting it (top left of picture) so was able to use those to shim the clearance out of the rear suspension arms.

9dvdueH.jpg

Fitting the ESC & radio receiver up next. Plenty of room. I cut down the radio antenna tube, bent it over and zip tied down towards the front. This worked out rather nicely. Also aluminium tap from kit applied to protect cable.

WMNLxpq.jpg

Connect the motor up and wheels on.

 EtkfMnR.jpg

Sponge pads fitted for the battery and then fitted. Deans connectors will probably be added later.

Zm154t7.jpg

Start tidying the cables, the on/off switch looks like it will fit nicely next to the servo. Also the bent radio antenna is useful for zip ties of other cables.

5z2Y5Cq.jpg

Electrics done and battery holder fitted.

visKZdn.jpg

Cut out the vac-formed body and sand down the edges. One mistake and it's bin fodder. I'm not a huge fan of vac-forming - there is no constant wall thickness in vac-forms for a kick off. I suppose Tamiya could have used a 5 axis router to cut the body ready for use but it would add cost.

6ajoP1m.jpg

Drill holes in body and check fit on car. All seems fine.

3fRMZfJ.jpg

So there I will leave it for today. One word PAINT. No paint delivered still.

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Looks great Manix92. Thank you for the detailed build notes. How did you decide on hop-ups for your Zahhak? Mine will only be used for bashing so mainly interested in durability upgrades.

 

Also wondering, is a slipper clutch recommended with a 10.5T 3600kv brushless motor?

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9 hours ago, Room335 said:

Looks great Manix92. Thank you for the detailed build notes. How did you decide on hop-ups for your Zahhak? Mine will only be used for bashing so mainly interested in durability upgrades.

 

Also wondering, is a slipper clutch recommended with a 10.5T 3600kv brushless motor?

Well been reading what others have done, looked at the TRF manual compared to the DN-01 and finally checked out the matching parts list (which isn't 100% complete but has most of the parts compatible)

I would go with the recess motor plate for sure just to reduce maintenance. Pretty well all the plastic is glass filled nylon so durability is good in the standard kit, you can get some parts filled with carbon fibre but It would would a small jump in durability - sure they will be lighter though. You could upgrade to the Tamiya hard turnbuckles for max strength (note the strains it would be able to take would get moved on then to the weakest next link), the TRF-201 comes with titanium not the the hard versions. I would assume aeration or big bore dampers would be more durable. The aluminium rear suspension mounts should improve durability along with the aluminium rear uprights.

Some of the above parts are upgrades on the TRF-201 not standard.

Some people don't get on with the ball diff and convert to gear.

With the 10.5T 3600kv brushless I would tend to order the slipper clutch straight off, I think you can get them for about £16 so it is hardly a killer. Brushless can supply a lot more torque than brushed, battery selection has some impact on that. A NiMH battery with brushless may not need the slipper.

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DN-01 keeps saying feed me, feed me.

So caved in and been shopping online again.

Tamiya 54028 RC TRF Buggy Aeration Oil Dampers

Tamiya 53159 RC Anodized Flange Lock Nuts - 4mm(Blue 5pcs)

Tamiya 53642 RC 5mm Aluminum Ball Connector - Blue

When I get round to it today I will update the build. Without paint it can only go so far though.

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21 minutes ago, Manix92 said:

DN-01 keeps saying feed me, feed me.

So caved in and been shopping online again.

Tamiya 54028 RC TRF Buggy Aeration Oil Dampers

Tamiya 53159 RC Anodized Flange Lock Nuts - 4mm(Blue 5pcs)

Tamiya 53642 RC 5mm Aluminum Ball Connector - Blue

When I get round to it today I will update the build. Without paint it can only go so far though.

I’ve got my paint coming too! Should be here tomorrow. Just need to build shocks and mount electrics and it’s done pretty much 

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Small update on the build.

Next up was the wing. As it turns out there are two vacforming's but on each vacform their are two wings. I never took a huge lot of notice of these when I first got the kit and thought there were two wings not four. But there is four.

Must confess the first one I went like a mad man at it = bin fodder. Second one took time and didn't like the look of it, kept as a spare. A mistake on third leaving me in the unhappy position of do or die for the last one I had.

Fourth go managed to get a wing I liked undamaged. It would appear you need to take extra off around the rear dampers than the cut line to avoid collision.

cpDgzJk.jpg

Fitted to car all looks OK.

EWDMvHf.jpg

Next while there is no paint and waiting on various hop-ups it left me not a lot to do.

So took the time to set the ESC points. For this kit with the Super Stock I have gone with a Mtroniks Tio Storm 19T ESC.

GVKl7cS.jpg

More simple to set-up than the Tamiya TBLE-02 I think. Button is easy to press for a start. When you first power on the LED's flash and if you press the set-up button you set the points. Full throttle point first and LED changes, full reverse/brake point and LED changes - it's done.

amjw43z.jpg

So all done, had a quick spin around the house with the throttle turned right down on the radio control.

rxGthKv.jpg

I think the next job will be set some initial camber and toe on the car unless the postman delivers something in the morning.

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My order from a Chinese online shop for the Aeration oil filled dampers got cancelled and refunded. I guess they were out of stock.

That left just the silly prices on Ebay but just by chance I thought I would check back at Plaza Japan and by some miracle they were back in stock for £48.00. So that was a good result but again if they were in stock before I could have saved on postage. I now have two loads of items from Plaza Japan on the way.

I also ended up getting a few sets of the hard turnbuckles and aluminium flange locking nuts and a few repair bits I needed for the TA03-RS.

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Right so time to set up camber and front toe.

What came apparent pretty quickly it was a utter waste of time with the movement on the front axles. Unless it is taken out the front wheels can move/twist on the axle in any direction. Time spent setting up camber and toe would be utterly wasted and all you end up with is a clown car at the front..

Looking at it the answer is either shim washers (which would go on the inside and need to miss the outer edge of the ball race) or reduce the length of the axle until correct.

So I went for filing the end of the axle until correct. I didn't need to take much off, 0.2mm on each side, but it makes a world of difference.

9eSrKct.jpg

And then check the wheel and it is properly held in the ball bearings with no slope on the axle.

NNH8UsR.jpg

I also added a washer under the screw so a nice even pressure is a applied to the bearing. There should be two spare washers in the kit if you want to do this.

 

Edited by Manix92
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With the front axles/wheel sorted I got back onto setting the camber and toe.

Only getting back into RC recently I have no gauges so it was improvising. Not only that not really sure how much chamber or whether to toe the front wheels out. So having a quick read around I decided for initial set-up 1 or 2 degree camber all round and zero toe out on the front wheels.

So firstly made some card camber gauges (which are simple based on right or wrong when checking)

VTJPrAh.jpg

Then decided to go for 2 degree negative all round.

Md1rGc4.jpg

CCA0S1x.jpg

The toe on the front wheels was done by using various measuring instruments - steel rule, digital calipers. It tracks pretty straight with no trim trim so I am happy.

 

 

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Looking good. That wing is a PITA to cut out. Ended up using a cutting disc on a Dremel then much sanding. 

Pro tip: the front axle stubs...make sure they are threadlocked. They will wander off if not. Same goes for the wheel mounting screw. 

If you want more tasty hop-ups, some suggestions I've been given:

- steel suspension balls 

- alu rear suspension mounts

- weighted front suspension mount 

You have to be careful with these or you'll spend more than a TRF201 turning them in to a 201...

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Cool build, a bit like a DT02 on steroids!

I'm also waiting on Plaza Japan orders - usually get caught by customs, mind. Expect a bill!

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2 hours ago, ChrisRx718 said:

Cool build, a bit like a DT02 on steroids!

I'm also waiting on Plaza Japan orders - usually get caught by customs, mind. Expect a bill!

Thanks.

Yeah it is like a more involved DT02. With the lack of new buggy designs and trf in the scene stopped you would think Tamiya will have to use the various love babies of TRF201 - maybe use the foundation of the mid motor version to bring a new buggy out? I dunno there are only so many rere's they can do without needing to make something for the future they can rere.

Shush, don't mention customs :ph34r:. I assume it's the coronavirus but everything I have had ordered from abroad and been delivered has had no additional charge, even the full car kit. Things are getting back to normal so this may change.

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2 hours ago, Howards said:

Looking good. That wing is a PITA to cut out. Ended up using a cutting disc on a Dremel then much sanding. 

Pro tip: the front axle stubs...make sure they are threadlocked. They will wander off if not. Same goes for the wheel mounting screw. 

If you want more tasty hop-ups, some suggestions I've been given:

- steel suspension balls 

- alu rear suspension mounts

- weighted front suspension mount 

You have to be careful with these or you'll spend more than a TRF201 turning them in to a 201...

I don't have a Dremel anymore. Instead have a die grinder which is great for steel and makes a Dremel look like a toy but for plastic with out speed control it's going to melt it.

Did you manage to buy 3 degree items 54242 & 54243 rear suspension mounts? Been searching for those but couldn't find anywhere that had both of them in stock at a reasonable price.

Well I'm past the point of worrying about the cost. I just think now, well the Zahhak is way under it's original RRP (from what I can tell it was $369.00 MSRP) at the moment if you buy from Asia and you can't buy a TRF-201 new. So if you can't get a TRF-201 new you can't compare it. Sure If I could of got a TRF-201 for £200+ it would make sense not to upgrade but it is anyone's guess if they will ever come available again.

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