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Manix92

Zahhak DN-01 new build.

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I got a used 201 and stripped it for the good stuff. I'll then turn the weird DN01/201 hybrid that's left over into a truggy.

Ended up getting the XA and XB rear mounts from Tamico - it was the only hop-up the donor 201 didn't have. 

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24 minutes ago, Howards said:

I got a used 201 and stripped it for the good stuff. I'll then turn the weird DN01/201 hybrid that's left over into a truggy.

Ended up getting the XA and XB rear mounts from Tamico - it was the only hop-up the donor 201 didn't have. 

What’s the difference between the X rear mounts and the standard 54242/3 items?

Do they allow more toe in?

(I’ve already got the 54242/3)

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10 minutes ago, Howards said:

Hah, I had to ask the same thing. It's not well documented. 

More anti-squat and the X versions add more toe in too. 

http://site.petitrc.com/setup/tamiya/setuptrf201x/TRF201X_AntiSquat/

Interesting! I love reading up on the setup etc... I decided on spec for mine with help from another great thread on here and petitrc...

I don’t understand how they help with anti squat tho?:wacko:

I’ll never race mine but good info to know!

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The angle of the pivot point on the lower arm relative to horizontal influences how much compression (squat) you get under power. More angle, less squat, but there's a trade off somewhere, probably less active suspension overall. 

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With the continuing saga of 'still no paint delivered' I decided to have a good blast in the garden regardless. I cut the lawn pretty short so there isn't much resistance. Happy with the Super Stock, don't know if I really would want much more speed TBH.

Anyway had a delivery Saturday morning - the 54016 DB01 Assembly Universal Drive Shafts. Noted on the packet for use on DB01 chassis and TRF501X. Always a bit worrying when they don't mention your chassis = DN-01/TRF-201.

Anyway if I remember correctly from what I could tell from part numbers these were used on the TRF-201 so lets see if they work.

First up get the wheels and the old drive shafts off.

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Here is the package of goodies.

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Lets get them assembled. All went well, the instructions call for moly grease. I got one spare grub screw and you also get the a set of wheel lock pins which are exactly the same as the ones taken off. So those can go in the spares box.

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And the moment of truth - do they fit correctly? YES and seem fine at all suspension travel points.

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Wheels back on. Job done.

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So how do they feel? Very smooth compared with the stock items.

Thumbs up for this hop-up.

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Loving this thread, I’m trying to source a Trf201 but been chatting to @Howards for a few ideas and may end up going down the same route as you either way will be watching this thread. Top Work.

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14 hours ago, Seanster43 said:

Loving this thread, I’m trying to source a Trf201 but been chatting to @Howards for a few ideas and may end up going down the same route as you either way will be watching this thread. Top Work.

Thanks.

There are two TRF-201's on ebay at the moment being sold by the same seller. One is a assembled kit and says it hasn't been run, though it looks like it has very minor scuffs on the front bumper? maybe it was tested? - near enough unused anyway even if it was tested. The other is NIB.

I might get a TRF-201 at some point. It would be nice if they come back in the shops but not sure if that will happen.

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As this has turned into a ongoing pass time I have ordered a few more bits...........

 

OK nothing serious but I like tinkering. So Firstly I have ordered Tamiya 53585 3mm shim set, been looking around the car and there are a few points that can be shimmed. Don't get me wrong the DN-01 is far better than the clearances you see on many Tamiya kits but there is always room for improvement :D

Also some aluminium sheet, I am going to attempt bonding a 1mm thick aluminium skid plate to the front bumper.

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Still waiting for paint. Cancelled the last order and found some on ebay at a reasonable price. So that should be here in the next few days.

Also while running it unpainted had some issues with overheating motor and probably the ESC. I will cover that in another post.

Anyway with the aluminium arriving for the bumper skid plate I decided to get going on that.

First off I cut out a template in card.

EtZV2S6.jpg

Next up cutout the aluminium and formed the radius using some car bodywork tools I have.

ETNiw53.jpg

The radius is a pretty good match.

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With that it was time to drill the holes and clean it up. The inside was finished to 320 grit wet and dry while the visible outside was finished to 2000 grit. The plastic bumper it will be bonded to was done to 320 grit as well.

XZzsncR.jpg

With that it was now time to bond the aluminium to the plastic bumper. I used Super Steel 2k exopy resin as this is usually very good. White spirit was used to clean the edges as it squelched out.

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Two parts now bonded together. For full strength bond I would wait for 24 hours personally.

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Fitted to the car it looks really good, very happy with the result. Now the screw heads are sub-flush and won't get damaged.

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One final thought on the skid plate. These aluminium sheets on Ebay are a pretty low grade = soft. It will be interesting to see how durable it is. You could instead use stainless steel but the only downside then is it will be a little harder to form.

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Nice work, will be good to see how it holds up like you said. 

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So with the shim set 53585 turning up I decided getting on to shimming all the hub and pivot points.

The rear arm mounts had been done previously with shims in the kit which were there if you needed them for the servo. The font main arm mount you shave material off until correct so that didn't need doing either.

What did need doing was all the areas around the hubs front and back.

9Pr3JKT.jpg

The shim kit comes with 10x 0.1mm, 0.2mm & 0.3mm. 30 in total.

The feeler gauges were useful to save a lot of guess work. On the front hub there are two points that can be tightened up, shimming was between 0.1 - 0.2mm. On the rear I think there is just one point on the hub that needs shims and they came out at 0.2mm

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The paint turned up!!!!!

And so I went about doing the body. The wing still needs doing.

I used fade from front to rear and it has come out really well, just like I hoped. With the windows masked off I used smoke in the front area PS-31 and then layered over PS-16 over the entire inside. Then removed the masking and did a few layers of smoke PS-31 over the entire inside.

The front isn't actually black like the camera picked up. With your eyes it's a deep blue and changes with light and fades back into the brighter blue.

f7bgC4R.jpg

Next job get the wing painted.

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Looking good, are you going to paint the wing with a fade as well, or solid blue? 

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12 hours ago, Manix92 said:

The paint turned up!!!!!

And so I went about doing the body. The wing still needs doing.

I used fade from front to rear and it has come out really well, just like I hoped. With the windows masked off I used smoke in the front area PS-31 and then layered over PS-16 over the entire inside. Then removed the masking and did a few layers of smoke PS-31 over the entire inside.

The front isn't actually black like the camera picked up. With your eyes it's a deep blue and changes with light and fades back into the brighter blue.

f7bgC4R.jpg

Next job get the wing painted.

Careful on the wing paint. The protective film is on the bottom of the wing. Reverse of where it normally is. Either paint the top or remove the film and paint the bottom of wing and tape the edges on top to reduce overspray

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And nice blue, no backer ? Here’s my Trf shell with spaz Stix candy blue backed with metallic silver 

7A86160B-B0AE-426F-ABC6-307D9F35BACA.jpeg

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13 hours ago, Manix92 said:

Next job get the wing painted.

Hot pink. Do it. 

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18 hours ago, Seanster43 said:

Looking good, are you going to paint the wing with a fade as well, or solid blue? 

Not sure yet.

7 hours ago, rwordenjr said:

Careful on the wing paint. The protective film is on the bottom of the wing. Reverse of where it normally is. Either paint the top or remove the film and paint the bottom of wing and tape the edges on top to reduce overspray

Yeah it has been worrying me a little. worst case I will have to polish it off.

7 hours ago, rwordenjr said:

And nice blue, no backer ? Here’s my Trf shell with spaz Stix candy blue backed with metallic silver 

7A86160B-B0AE-426F-ABC6-307D9F35BACA.jpeg

4A953BFB-6B8F-4352-8EEF-34520F28533A.jpeg

D242CFFD-7782-4B94-B412-DC47DEBEBE83.jpeg

9E205604-E61C-4296-97D0-6099B6B71BDB.jpeg

Well just 3 coats of smoke used as the backer which darkened the overall effect. I had considered white or silver but thought in the end just go with backing in smoke.

I don't think we can get spaz stix paint in the UK. It is a nice colour on yours.

6 hours ago, Howards said:

Hot pink. Do it. 

Hot pink yeah would sure give the colour scheme a lift but I just have in my mind this kind of stealthy look without going too dark.

 

6 hours ago, NobbySideways said:

LOL my real road car is that blue. Do it!

Funny you should say that, the lighter blue areas aren't far off the old Peugeot GTI resto project in my garage.

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Man im only going to get (1) more, do i go Zahak, 201, Durga, or a Jugg, you all arent helping with these gorgeous 201/Zahaks!!!!

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36 minutes ago, GTodd said:

Man im only going to get (1) more, do i go Zahak, 201, Durga, or a Jugg, you all arent helping with these gorgeous 201/Zahaks!!!!

If you find a deal on a 201 I’d go for that. I spent easily double modding my Dn-01. Thoroughly enjoyed it and won’t be adding up the total cost 😖

Durga is meant to be great also. I have a build of one in progress but it’s a box of parts as I’m still waiting for the chassis..

 

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3 hours ago, GTodd said:

Man im only going to get (1) more, do i go Zahak, 201, Durga, or a Jugg, you all arent helping with these gorgeous 201/Zahaks!!!!

I'm joining the club too. DN01 on it's way from HK to UK.

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Posted (edited)

So folks I finished off the paint. I could have done with some clear paint but to get the look I really wanted on the rear wing but I'm happy enough with the results.

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DRIVE SHAFT PROBLEM!!!

Tamiya 54016 (op1016) DB01 Assembly Universal Shaft (Rear)

A bit ago I fitted these as a upgrade. Sitting the car on the floor with no wheels on they worked fine. Driving the car around the house they worked fine. Pushing the suspension up and down and rotating the wheels they worked fine. So what is the problem??

Well what I didn't realise if you lift the car off the ground with the wheels on and use the motor to turn they vibrated - they just were out of the operating window for running smoothly. First time I noticed the problem was going across grass where the suspension would go light and let the shafts go out of the smooth operating window.

End result I have had to take them off. I have now ordered

Tamiya 54119 WO assembly shaft (rear)

These give a wider operating angle so should fix the problem.

For the time being the kit versions are back on.

 

Edited by Manix92
added driveshaft problems
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