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xSyReKzZ

Tamiya "Ultimate" Highlift Project **PREP**

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Hey TC Members! 

How are we all doing today, during these unprecedented times? 

 

So, I've wanted the Tamiya High lift since its release but couldn't afford it at the time. But finally bit the gun and bought myself the High lift and awaiting its delivery!

I have been doing quite a fair amount of research on the chassis, to try and build the "ultimate" high lift spec (on a budget - if possible). I know its not a very capable trail truck, especially with its standard transmission placement (getting caught because of low ground clearance, etc) but this is where the upgrades come in to improve this truck!

Also, I will be ditching the stupid 4-wheel steering setup on the chassis, not needed at all as its not a monster truck and looks ridiculous. (don't know why Tamiya thought it would be a good idea

What would your top upgrades be, that you would suggest? (I am aware of the JunFac 4-Link suspension link upgrade for the High Lift, but I would prefer to stick with leaf springs due to more scale look and personally I'm not a fan of the 4-link suspension on the high lift - just doesn't suit it in my opinion

Whilst I am still waiting for the delivery man/woman, I have been busy making a pre build upgrade list for the chassis (listed below) 

 

BODY
Shell: Undecided between F350 / Tundra or Something else that fits the standard wheelbase

ELECTRONICS
ESC: Quicrun 1080 
Motor: Tamiya TR Torque Tuned 33T (For scale speed and although motor was intended for 1/14 Trucks, the motor was built for specifically Tamiya 3-Speed Transmission) 
Servo (Steering): Hi-Toque Waterproof Metal Geared (Not sure which yet?) 
Servo (Gearing): N/A - Will be locking the Transmission to all time 4x4 Low 
Pinion: Steel (Standard Metrics) 

WHEELS
Rims: Standard
Tires: Undecided (Looking for something a little larger that fits on standard rims?)
Foams: Stiffer foam for the rear

UPGRADES

  • GMADE TS01 90mm Alloy Scale Shocks (Shocks do not require oil but will test) - Mounted upside-down
  •  Shock Oil: Front - 200 to 300CST (Piston 4-hole)
  •  Shock Oil: Rear - 300 to 400CST (Piston 3-hole) 
  •  Leaf Springs: Either removal of 2 leaf springs or upgraded to RC4WD red super soft 
  •  AMPRO High Lift Front Motor Kit 
  •  AMPRO High Lift Transmission Lift 
  •  AMPRO High Lift Central Battery Kit 
  •  AMPRO High Lift Battery Retainer 
  •  AMPRO High Lift Spring Perch 
  •  Gmade/JunFac 1 Piece Heavy Duty Steering Knuckle Arms
  •  Gmade/JunFac 1 Piece Heavy Duty Straight Axle Adaptor 
  •  Gmade/JunFac Hard Carbon Steel Universal Shafts
  •  Gmade/JunFac Front Servo Steering kit (My concern would this interfere with the AMPRO Front Motor kit??)

 

 

 

 

 

 

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Looking forward to this one.

I've got a newly built Tundra on the shelf that i really ought to get round to finishing. I do like hop ups, so this might give me the inspiration i need to finish it.

 

Tundra.jpg

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11 hours ago, toyolien said:

Looking forward to this one.

I've got a newly built Tundra on the shelf that i really ought to get round to finishing. I do like hop ups, so this might give me the inspiration i need to finish it.

 

Tundra.jpg

That is a sweet looking Tundra! What tire size is that? Looks really good! 

I got mine with the Hilux body, but because I have a Bruiser I am looking to get something else. Was thinking either the Tundra and make turn it into a replica of the UK TopGear Polar Hilux build or maybe a powerwagon build.. Honestly I am having a hard time choosing :(

I am hoping that high lift owners who had some experience with this chassis could shed some light at which mods / upgrades to do, including setup. ie - shock oil weight etc

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On 5/30/2020 at 11:14 PM, backtomyroots said:

The Tundra has tons of potential to be made very realistic and to stand out. Here is mine.

DSCF6128 (2012_12_29 23_12_28 UTC)TC.jpg

Very nice Tundra! 

Starting to get a little jelly of all the Tundra builds lol. Although I was thinking of changing my Hilux body for an ABS Land Cruiser LC80. Who knows, still in the planning build phase :D

 

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The High Lift is a great truck that has a lot of limits. They made the truck 4 wheel steering because they didn’t want to make a different straight axle for the rear. When the trucks were current, there was lots of aftermarket support then better trucks came out and popularity waned and parts dried availability dried up  here is my highly aluminum Hilux High Lift chassis

DF757BEB-33C3-4D6C-8278-60C09EF03F6D_zps

Its one of my favorite runners MFC-02 drops right in to give you killer sound, lights and the ability to plug an iPod in to play music through the speakers 

FD1D0D30-9216-47D0-93B8-9CD8BD0D3977_zps
 

2F0FDC29-E700-43A7-99C1-C65A5FE49FBF_zps

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interested in this as I'm close to pulling the trigger on a Tundra.

@backtomyroots that is stunning - I read you had a custom windscreen made - is that available at all?

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Can anyone tell me what the wheelbase on the High Lift is? 

I've been looking on eBay for some ABS Bodies and came across the Land Cruiser LC80 at a fairly decent price point with interior also available, but the WB of the LC80 is 313mm 

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The wheelbases of the Hil-Lift chassis (not bodies) are officially:

Ford F350 + Toyota Hilux: 285mm

Toyota Tundra: 310mm

Measured wheelbases of course vary slightly depending of how far the suspension is compressed, toe-in and other factors, so the wheelbases of the Hi-Lift are frequently stated to be 287mm ("SWB") and 313mm ("LWB").

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57 minutes ago, Mokei Kagaku said:

The wheelbases of the Hil-Lift chassis (not bodies) are officially:

Ford F350 + Toyota Hilux: 285mm

Toyota Tundra: 310mm

Measured wheelbases of course vary slightly depending of how far the suspension is compressed, toe-in and other factors, so the wheelbases of the Hi-Lift are frequently stated to be 287mm ("SWB") and 313mm ("LWB").

Thank you for answering my question! 

I am bumped! As I have my eyes set on the LC80 body now but I purchased the Hilux Highlift (Nooo!!) 

Would I need any extra parts to covert the WB to LWB? 

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14 hours ago, xSyReKzZ said:

Thank you for answering my question! 

I am bumped! As I have my eyes set on the LC80 body now but I purchased the Hilux Highlift (Nooo!!) 

Would I need any extra parts to covert the WB to LWB? 

The frame rails for the Tundra are longer, as are the rear prop-shaft and the rear (longitudinal) steering rod. The latter only being relevant when using the optional rear wheel steering, of course.

Apart from this, I can't recall any differing parts of the chassises, (disregarding the wheels and parts for mounting the original bodies, which are pretty irrelevant when using the LC80 anyway).

The number and/or types of screws used are probably slightly different, but I built the Hi-Lifts so many years ago, that I don't remember the exact differrences of the screws.

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If you want to make sure, download manuals for both kits and compare the parts lists at the end.

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On 6/2/2020 at 8:52 AM, jonboy1 said:

interested in this as I'm close to pulling the trigger on a Tundra.

@backtomyroots that is stunning - I read you had a custom windscreen made - is that available at all?

The maker of the windscreen no longer sells or makes them and has no stock left.

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On 6/9/2020 at 12:18 AM, backtomyroots said:

The maker of the windscreen no longer sells or makes them and has no stock left.

so that'll be a no then.....

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On 6/6/2020 at 10:59 AM, Yonez said:

If you want to make sure, download manuals for both kits and compare the parts lists at the end.

That's a good shout! Don't know why I didn't think of it to be honest lol. 

Compared the 2 manuals and it looks like the only thing I would need to change to extend the wheelbase is the rear prop shaft. Which the JunFac hardened steel prop shaft set adds adjustable size range (35mm) in both front and rear. 

The only thing I haven't been able to find in any manual is the length of the chassis frame on both kits. Can anyone confirm if they are both the same or is the chassis on the tundra longer? 

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The Tundra is longer and mounts the transmission slightly differently as the transmission can be mounted two different heights.  How long, I'm not sure though.

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It is going to be great! Lot of upgrades!

Does anybody knows if the Mountain Rider is better than the Tundra? I don't quite like how the Tundra looks, for me the wheels are too small for the body, but in the Mountain Rider it looks just good.

Also, It is ok to make small jumps, say 10 cms with the Tundra or the Mountain Rider?

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On 6/10/2020 at 6:36 PM, tamiya3speed said:

The Tundra is longer and mounts the transmission slightly differently as the transmission can be mounted two different heights.  How long, I'm not sure though.

I just had a look through both the manuals and I can definitely confirm that the chassis rails itself are much longer on the Tundra compared to the Hilux models. Also had a look around for spare Tundra chassis rails and cannot seem to find any currently. Which leaves me know to possibly got for the Ford F350 Body on the chassis rather than the Hilux. I heard the F350 has the same wheelbase as the Hilux, can someone confirm?

 

On 6/14/2020 at 11:16 AM, montogeek said:

It is going to be great! Lot of upgrades!

Does anybody knows if the Mountain Rider is better than the Tundra? I don't quite like how the Tundra looks, for me the wheels are too small for the body, but in the Mountain Rider it looks just good.

Also, It is ok to make small jumps, say 10 cms with the Tundra or the Mountain Rider?

 I hope so! Still ironing everything out before I move onto the building phase. Considering making a YouTube channel to share my build experience and share some trail runs too! 

Tundra sits on the High Lift chassis, where the Mountain Rider sits on the Bruiser chassis. Both chassis are very similar, using the 3 speed transmission (Same family tree) the Mountain Rider is an older chassis whilst the High Lift is a baby chassis. Both though are quite limited in terms of out of box performance and even upgraded they won't compete with like TRX4s or SCX10s. 

I got a HG P407 for my birthday which is a Bruiser clone (same as the Mountain Rider) and was popping wheelies with it lol, theoretically when built right with Loctite where needed jumps shouldn't be a problem but I would not over do it - abuse these, especially as the Bruiser chassis as the axle is made of cast alloy and can be brittle. Also these trucks are designed for slow trails, for jumps I would go with something more made towards that area like a stadium truck, etc  

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This should be fun. I was wondering about the G-made TS shocks for my F350. They look cool, but do they perform? Also, I was thinking of getting one of those HG P407s to bomb around in. I have a Bruiser re-release and it should be a museum piece. It's absolutely amazing. 

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