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nowinaminute

I finally caved and bought a lockdown kit! 2CV Rally :-O

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2 hours ago, simalarion said:

@nowinaminute
As i would see you as pro in this hobby you probably know this, but this stuff remove PS paint from Lexan body like dried soup on kitchen table. You can actually clean! the lexan body as well so it does not harm the Lexan in anyway (all other stuff i tried harm the Lexan or oil it up). It saved me from all the bleeding on Agrios build, just whipe away:

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I have some :D

The only thing it can't do though is restore missing paint.

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hi nice little build that's going to wheel stand in reverse with that motor ha!!! should be fun to drive ,,,,,, had the same motor  just don't get them to wet  

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Decided to do some more stickers to cheer myself up lol. Not sure what to do about those lines Might just get some Kyosho tape or similar or just not worry about it. I'm not masking the whole thing up and risking the same again though lol.

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Did a few more stickers today. I think I might put a jerry can on the back. I know it's a bit illogical because it would hinder the boot/trunk being lifted up but oh well, it will look cool lol. And I guess the driver could always just lift it off temporarily while he opened the boot? That's what I'm going to tell myself anyway.

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these are imperfections we all get sometimes... could be much worse. I still recommend masking milk but that another pair of shoes.

sorry for the pictures, maybe it makes it easier for you.

this one sneaked up on me, did not notice until finished.

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the part where grey and white meets has set included silver stripes.

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edit: what did you do with skid plates 51426?

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1 hour ago, Fabia130vRS said:

I still recommend masking milk but that another pair of shoes.

Masking milk? Shores? Lol.

1 hour ago, Fabia130vRS said:

edit: what did you do with skid plates 51426?

I'm still trying to decide what colour to paint them. I think the manual says silver but as I'm going to do the bumper and ramp black, I thought I might as well paint the plates black too.

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1 hour ago, nowinaminute said:

Masking milk? Shores? Lol.

I'm still trying to decide what colour to paint them. I think the manual says silver but as I'm going to do the bumper and ramp black, I thought I might as well paint the plates black too.

We here tend to call any white fluid milk, dont get it wrong tho. :D 

I orderd a set, I also thought about black, since thats the only color I have. But my body is Silver on the RA. So maybe I stick with silver to replicate the aluminium skid plate. I have revell brush paint in aluminium imitation. Not sure if it will brittle 

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1 hour ago, simalarion said:

A bit weathering would be cool, if you are familiar with it ofc. 

I've done a few bits and pieces but I wouldn't say I'm an expert. by any means lol.

I might just use some water based paint to do a dirt wash and then maybe some brown in a spray bottle to give it a light coating of dirt. And then some spot details with Tamiya weathering powder. See how it looks first and then I can decide if I want to do the same but with something a little more permanent. 

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Had a little play with the weathering powder just on the jerrycan this evening. I'd be better off starting with a quick dirt wash I think to get more grime inside the reinforcing cross but overall I'm really pleased with how it looks for a 2 minute job. I think I'll clean it off, dirt wash it and pretty much replicate the same thing again on top.

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And being the eternal skinflint I am (partly through necessity in my defence) I'm pleased to tell you two of those colours weren't actually from the Tamiya weathermaster kit. I was in poundland the other day and grabbed some eyeshadow applicators because Tamiya only give you one in the kit even though there are 3 colours (stingy sods) and they happened to have little palettes of eye shadow for £2 and as I've always been convinced it's basically the same stuff, I grabbed one to try.

The black and the rust are both courtesy of poundland with a little oil added to give it a consistency more like the Tamiya stuff. ;)

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Need to make the car a bit more dirty now!

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Can't find my cheap bottle of Poundland black acrylic to make a black wash but I have some Tamiya black acrylic so I might give that a go and test it on some lexan first. The poundland stuff works pretty well with water and a dash of dish soap. Just need to make sure the tamiya stuff isn't too difficult to get off when it dries. Not that I want to take loads off, I want the car to be nice and grimy but it would be nice to know it can come off of I really want to take it off. When I use the poundland stuff, it will rub off lexan quite easily with some effort or you can use Tamiya body cleaner and it will 100% remove it.

 

 

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After a few suggestions, I tried out some thin tape to tidy up the paint issues. Looks like a winner! 

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I got some of this "Model Technics" Trimline tape, seemed like decent value and you get various sizes on one roll. I went with 1.3mm but there's 0.8 and 0.5 too so I might see if I can get some of the thinner one on there and still conceal the ugliness.

Image result for model tecnics trimline tape

Not sure how well it sticks yet but as with most sticky stuff, a quick blast of the hair dryer helped to flatten it down nicely and it seems to hand moderate curves ok.

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12 minutes ago, simalarion said:

I dont understand this magic, do you spray paint the tape before aplying or whats going on here?

No it's just black tape lol

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Im sure the final product will look very good, very cool project!. Please post more picture of the hole RC Car when finished, from a distance :)

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14 hours ago, nowinaminute said:

After a few suggestions, I tried out some thin tape to tidy up the paint issues. Looks like a winner! 

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I got some of this "Model Technics" Trimline tape, seemed like decent value and you get various sizes on one roll. I went with 1.3mm but there's 0.8 and 0.5 too so I might see if I can get some of the thinner one on there and still conceal the ugliness.

Image result for model tecnics trimline tape

Not sure how well it sticks yet but as with most sticky stuff, a quick blast of the hair dryer helped to flatten it down nicely and it seems to hand moderate curves ok.

I’ve used this loads of times on boats. As long as you get the surface clean with something like rubbing alcohol they stick really well. Will take gentle curve well but not so good for tight ones. Also available in all sorts of colours.

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Today I had a go at one of the rear lights. Never been a fan on the concept of trying to neatly fit a 2d sticker around a 3d part but it sort of worked out ok.

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the blinkers on the front though, what a pain! Try as I might I just couldn't get a very good result without it being pointy like something Madonna would wear! Even with generous use of the hairdryer I'm not convinced it will stay on too well.

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I'm liking how it's looking on the whole though. Made a fair bit of progress with the stickering. Almost finished on this side. Got to do the whole thing over again on the other side though :wacko::(

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Just a little update.

In slightly disappointing news, my cheap poundland eyeshadow that initially looked almost identical to the Tamiya weathering powder kind of dried up and fell off the jerry can lol. So much for life hacks :lol: I thought mixing it with some oil had done the trick but apparently it didn't last. My ex and a few other girls I spoke to said the T stuff was more like the higher priced products with more pigments in or something but it costs as much as the Tamiya stuff anyway so a bit of a dead end. Apparently the cheap stuff works quite nicely when applied to matt paint and flat coats though so I'll keep hold of it just in case.

On to weathering the whole body, as I said before I've been experimenting with non-permanent methods so far and I've gotten some pretty nice results. The only challenge is combining water based washes with a lexan body. It's hard to wipe some of the dry wash off to refine the finish without leaving portions of squeaky clean body exposed and sort of leaving a "signature" of whatever cloth or cotton etc you used to wipe it with. Its a bit easier on painted models with a flat coat on as the wash clings a bit better whereas on lexan it's hard to avoid an all or nothing scenario.

What would be good is a nice, fine, all over application of dirt colour on top. Known as a "filter" in modelling circles I believe. I think if I applied a few coats of wash, refined it and then added a filter coat to just dull the exposed shiny bits and replicate an all over "film" of dirt to make the grime more consistent it would look pretty good! The only problem is it will be nigh impossible to hand brush on a nice filter so I might borrow a friends airbrush. They just got one of those new handheld hobbies with the battery and compressor in the handle and amazingly it actually seems to work really well, certainly well enough to spray a film of dirt over an rc body.

Anyways, even with the aforementioned reservations, I'm already quite pleased with the results so far and I especially like the effect when rubbing a slightly wet piece of kitchen roll down over decals.


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Been having fun trying various ways to get a sort of "all over" layer of grime to work in conjunction with the washes that work better for making more defined areas of soiling.

So far I'm quite liking the results from a simple 50/50 mix of pound shop acrylic paint and water applied from a simple spray bottle set to mist. I found out later that it works well outside if you stand a little "upwind" from the shell as the larger droplets will fall out of the way before the mist hits the body. I think this effect would really work well over the top of the streaking effect from the washes. Just need to add some sandy and earth tones into the mix. 

Everything is water soluble so far so easily removed if need be.

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I kind of got distracted by this for a bit I ordered a cheap cordless, battery powered airbrush from Aliexpress after watching some reviews on youtube and being surprised to find out they actually work really well for what they are.

My 2CV is pretty much finished and stickered up on one side but I have left the other side bare for now to practice weathering on it with the airbrush. I didn't want to do anything permanent so I just tried some flory sand coloured weathering wash and wow! You have to give it time to dry off between coats because it's really watery by design but even this stuff you can build up a nice realistic film of grime with! Airbrushes rock!

This stuff doesn't have any kind of durability though so I think once I've gotten a bit more practice in, I'll try and either use a non-permanent top coat or replicate the effect with some acrylic paint that will still be removable in a worst case scenario but will have a little more staying power.

I really love how easy it is to get good results, though! I knew airbrushes were better for stuff like this but wow, it's a revelation.

I also grabbed some bottles of inexpensive acrylic "craft" paint. Apple Barrel and Folkart brands, they are considered to be one of the better cheap acrylic paints and again, just wow. I watched a few videos of people airbrushing with this stuff on youtube and I was amazed but seeing it work in the flesh is even better. I just can't believe how well this stuff goes on with the benefit of an airbrush! I tried some Revel aqua colour too and once it's thinned to the suitable consistency, it's really not that much better than the cheap craft paint but either way, they are all cheap options and a little goes so much further compared to hand brushing or using spray cans.

I also got some "Daler Rowney" acrylic from poundland to try but the stuff is awful, it's all grainy and lumpy and even just hand brushing the stuff you can see the Daler has way less pigment and needs 4x as many coats. I didn't let it get anywhere near my airbrush! Just goes to show that not all cheap stuff is made equal!

Anyways, look at that sand build up! I'm really pleased with how authentic it looks. My previous attempts with a spray bottle look so heavy handed in comparison lol. I might use that method on my heavy dump truck though, I think it would suit it!

l89bokE.jpg
 

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Nice work. I had good luck using shoe polish to age things for a weathered look. 

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