Jump to content
07LowRider

Vintage Midnight Pumpkin needs upgrades

Recommended Posts

I’ve finally got my pumpkin running after 25 years or so. Fun as I remember. I did find, however, in getting it up to running condition, some of the current setup isn’t what is shown in the instruction manual. I did not assemble my pumpkin as I bought it used from another enthusiast. I was wondering if any of you have seen a setup such as this (suspension) and also if there are any recommendations on ways o improve the ride and speed. Everything (as far as I know) is stock. 
 

I do have one other issue. Even when adjusting my controller, the pumpkin still pulls one way or the other. In examining the steering, the servo appears to be at middle. The tie rods are of different length but again, there is pull  to one side or the other. Suggestions here would be welcome as well. 

 

 

 

 

F17946B7-B663-42E4-AF1F-EFA495D54C49.jpeg

Edited by 07LowRider

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Should have mentioned that the suspension is very stiff or at least seems it to me. There is oil in the shock tubes if that makes any kind of difference. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The rear suspension at the bottom has been 'fudged'. The shock absorber ends are wrong, they should have a moulding that will accept a ball joint, and there should be a ball joint screwed into the black mounts which the shock end then clips on to. The screws and flange nuts are incorrect that hold on the shocks at the bottom. The front end is OK. There should be oil in the shock tubes, but you can use different piston heads on the shock pistons to adjust the damping. The fat yellow C clips at the top of the shocks can be removed to reduce the pre-load on the suspension which may soften it a little.

This chassis is notorious for poor handling so it does not surprise me you cannot get it to go in a straight line, particularly as the fudge to the rear suspension will stiffen it even more and cause it to behave erratically. 

 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have a few of those extra ball joints but the hole in the molding is too big. I attempted to take the C bracket off and have the strut go in as the directions suggest but I am not sure what will keep the strut from moving up into the body. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
23 minutes ago, 07LowRider said:

Whoever built it did the front suspension the same as the back. 

That is how the shocks were installed front and back. 

3A3D129E-8EE0-41DB-AEB1-4E2282E6F440.jpeg

4E018C7E-1263-4725-B159-5A9A8087994C.jpeg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

As madinventor said the lower rear fittings are wrong and not letting the rear axle rotate and 'do it's thing'  . The lower joints should be a ball connector and the lower damper end pushes on to it to give articulation to the axle . If the hole in the damper plate on the axle is too big , then get a ball connector that has a longer thread and then use washers and nut or obtain new rear damper mount plastics  . The damper oil will need replacing if it's been standing around for a while as they can get 'sticky' and become very ineffective . BTW , get the Stadium Blitzer out and let's have a look at that too  ;) 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
2 hours ago, 07LowRider said:

I have a few of those extra ball joints but the hole in the molding is too big. I attempted to take the C bracket off and have the strut go in as the directions suggest but I am not sure what will keep the strut from moving up into the body. 

Leave the upper 'C' or 'U' bracket as it's known in place as it is the way it should be for CVA dampers

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

With the steering , check the front wheel bearings . If they are plastic then replace them for ballraces - 1150 RS , rubber shielded to keep out dust . Worn plastic bearings wear fast and can cause 'wander' on the steering .

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
1 hour ago, KEV THE REV said:

With the steering , check the front wheel bearings . If they are plastic then replace them for ballraces - 1150 RS , rubber shielded to keep out dust . Worn plastic bearings wear fast and can cause 'wander' on the steering .

They are metal bearings. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Ok , check that the bearings are good and check the servo saver on the steering for wear or looseness

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

How would I tell if the bearings are no good?  Same question for the servo saver. Also, is it hard to go from the old style speed control to and ESC?  Would I need a new radio?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
16 hours ago, KEV THE REV said:

As madinventor said the lower rear fittings are wrong and not letting the rear axle rotate and 'do it's thing'  . The lower joints should be a ball connector and the lower damper end pushes on to it to give articulation to the axle . If the hole in the damper plate on the axle is too big , then get a ball connector that has a longer thread and then use washers and nut or obtain new rear damper mount plastics  . The damper oil will need replacing if it's been standing around for a while as they can get 'sticky' and become very ineffective . BTW , get the Stadium Blitzer out and let's have a look at that too  ;) 

The stadium blitzer will be an entirely different thread once I get the pumpkin to where I want it. 

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hold the wheel and try moving the wheel up and down on the axle and see how much movement there is on the axle - look at the axle only here  , there will be some movement not excessive amount .Take the wheels off and take out the bearings and hold them in your finger tips and rotate the bearing . If it feels 'notchy' then they need replacing.

 The servo saver proceedure is , turn the truck over so that you can see the servo saver , move the wheels from side to side and look at servo saver to check for excess movement .

To replace the MSC with ESC is easy . Remove the MSC and MSC's servo and resistor . You can retain your receiver and handset . Install the ESC into a convenient position so all wires can reach the receiver easily  . Plug the motor wires into the ESC wires as per ESC instructions and plug the ESC plug into the receiver position where the MSC's servo was taken out . You need a BEC somewhere in the set up , it might already be in the receiver , ESC's now usually have in them now and it won't matter if you have 2 BEC's in the setup

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

BEC is Battery Eliminator Circuitry . Basically on older vintage models the receiver drew it's power from a seperate pod of 4x AA batteries (6volts ). In more modern times the receiver draws it's power from the MSC small red fly lead that connects to the on/off switch which then in turn is pluged into the BATT port of the receiver thus 'Eliminating' the AA pod . Nowadays the ESC power is drawn from the receiver throttle port via the ESC's BEC so power is maintained at a constant to the ESC , which will have an auto cut off at low batt and return the throttle to neutral thus preventing a runaway

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That’s helpful. Can you recommend an ESC that is not a bank breaker and compatible with the stock motor?  I’m using 7200 mah NiMH batteries if that’s of any relevance. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I use a lot of Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 ( around £15GBP)  . Easy to use , plug and play / adjustable , can handle hot motors too if you upgrade your stock can .

Which receiver do you have at the mo .?

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
6 hours ago, KEV THE REV said:

I use a lot of Hobbywing Quicrun 1060 ( around £15GBP)  . Easy to use , plug and play / adjustable , can handle hot motors too if you upgrade your stock can .

Which receiver do you have at the mo .?

I have a futaba magnum sport and a futaba magnum junior. Both old as dirt. Which quicrun 1060, brushed or brushless?
 

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I've got a 1040 (predecessor to 1060 I believe) in a pumpkin and the motor wires are a little short if I recall correctly. Other than that they're absolutely fine and will handle an upgraded brushed motor (down to 12T apparently).

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Difference between brushed or brushless and as I have stock motors in my pumpkin and blitzer, which do I have?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

The 1060 will fit into a MP on the old AA battery pod ledge ok. You can also build a platform like I did with my LB's to fit the RX and ESC on one level

1060 esc.JPG

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

×
×
  • Create New...