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 had to switch places, the Kicker was too powerful for the fronts

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This is the Dist. Block i used (forgot to to take pics, for i had already installed the front fold out cup holder where this resides) the Kicker Amp uses an external fuse 150A,

the Maxi Amp you can only go to 120A so i installed this...

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Morel's Tempo Ultra Integra 692 140W RMS these suckers scream!

waiting on Bass Blockers for these in dash......................................(just arrived)...

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You might say the Soul of this system...

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ZAPCO ASP-X4 Electronic X-Over

{under glove box}

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That’s certainly a lot of amps in those cables. Do you use additional charging on a second battery or a bigger alternator? 
Just wondering do those massive capacitors do anything for the subwoofer amplifiers or are they just for show?

ive got some old skool kicker gear, mostly still boxed but not as heavy duty as yours.  It’s original kicker impulse 5 or 6 channel amplifier. Kicker resolution 8” subs, 4” components kit, 51/4” component kit and a 12” impulse subwoofer.  That’s the only American stuff I have. I have an old Alpine headunit (pull out) but no internal amp along with a 6 way alpine active xover. It came fitted to an old jag I bought years ago with 4 Harman Kardon amplifiers.  I was thinking of fitting it to a 91 Range Rover I currently have that needs restoration lol.  All my stuff is old and/or needs restoration.  All looks good on paper though 😉

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The plus about the 06 Dodge Ram 5.9L Cummins it does have two batteries, i've looked into a higher output alternator and it's not needed the stock one may get upgraded later.

I've read about capacitors and they are not needed, they only give you a slight boost when the draw is needed and basically as you know they are nothing more than a storage for energy that does not last long thus two batteries are the best alternative.All Alternators charge batteries no matter what, now if i was supplying greater power to  four 12" or 15" subs and or 18"  (A SPL Competition System) than yes a stronger alternator would be needed and even more banks of batteries. Deep cells (Marine batteries) but as long as they recharge any battery will do, it's all suggestive out there and what you need or have to spend, there's a lot of marketing, hype, smoke, mirrors & snake oil out there, when cables has to be the greatest blunder for suckers, now saying that, it is very important to have larger AWG wiring in Car Audio no matter what. 

i use to run telephone wires to two MTX speakers off an old JVC slide equalizer and amp in the patio area years ago (it's all i had for the back yard sound at the time and it Rocked!).

i really don't want the Infinity Midrages on the dash but there's no other place for them, i could fiberglass the map pockets in on the doors but i really do not want to( i use my pockets). that said the sound reflecting off the windshield as i have read that it may not be nice as it bounces into your face, so i can not wait to see if my eyes will crack:D

 

 

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I wondered what truck the speakers were being fitted to.  As you say if it comes with two batteries already it must have a split charge circuit there already and a good alternator to do that. 
your infinity midranges, is it possible to fit them at the base of the a pillar but firing towards the driver position? Speaker reflection hmmm......it’s like the big no no in car audio but it’s what happens inside a vehicle anyway.  Years ago I had a car with stock dash position speakers shooting straight at the windscreen, I was advised to fit door mounted speakers high up instead with a tilt towards the driver.  I did that and maybe a little more clarity but not much to be honest, probably due to a 2 way speaker than the stock dual cone. Then eventually bought a pair of tweeters fitted those in the stock dash position together with the full range door mounted speakers and that made a huge improvement! So for me reflection off the windscreen worked in that car.  It’s something I’m going to do again with a slight difference. Use 4 tweeters up front via a 4 channel amplifier. So 2 or 3 way door components as per normal then gradually bring in the dash tweeters so they fill in the stereo sound without pin pointing where they are if that makes sense?  I’ll use the amplifier gain for that and in theory the gain will be less than the door mounted tweeters due to sound reflection making them appear brighter.  

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i've read into the deflective theories enough to know it should be fine.

i had a 2001 Dodge 2500 and the tweeters were in the collums they were quite brite, being these are Mids i'm hoping the 150Hz that these pups can get howling down to will be nice and tight. i could always invert them, left side is possible, the right side the heater box would be in the way (behind the glove box, still doable just take a L o n g  W h i l e to install.

been messing around with some kHz's today with the Morels (35Hz-22000 , they are extremely vocal and thus i have faded to the rear's ever so slightly to keep my ears from bleeding:lol:

i've tried Full Range but bass is still too much and LPF is out of the question and thus the HPF is the singer and these Morels do just that, my Pioneers were a better fit for that much more bass output 29Hz-50K but they would have not taken the extra HP's  the Diamond puts out vs the Pioneer GM-D8604 amp that had been replaced paired up with the Pioneer TS-6900 Pros these 6x9's did not disappoint.

now just waiting for the bass blockers (just in case a low signal squeezes by).

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looking at these New 

Alpine X-W12D4

2700W Max (900W RMS) 12" X-Series Dual 4 Ohm Car Subwoofer

 
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Maybe?

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Those look good 👍, what sort of enclosure are you thinking of? 
I had a pair of sealed enclosure Sony 12s in the back of a 2002 focus estate and they were loud!  I think 200w rms per speaker from a kenwood mono amp. At Leman 24hr for a couple of years that car was the sound system for the group I was with.  Then married and divorced within 6 years put paid to nice things until recently.  Big power amps have moved on a lot since the early 2000’s  🙂

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oh my i'am dangerous, so like i have had my eyes (and ears) out for these for a couple of years now and i did use their RCA cables because the jackets were so very handsome,

their SW are supposed to be quite slamming and perhaps someday i'll have a pair, their amps are said to be pretty efficient but these may be had here pretty darn soon,

Cause!

Sundown Audio NeoPro-6.5 V3 6.5" 360W RMS 4-Ohm Carbon Fiber Midrange Speaker (Pair)

Sundown Audio NeoPro-6.5 V3 6.5" 360W RMS 4-Ohm Carbon Fiber Midrange Speaker (Pair)

 

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You know how you get tickled with RC hop ups?

Well, Audio makes me feel the same way except it's alot louder!

  • Haha 2

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i'll be taking these out for a test drive............................🚗___________________________

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1 hour ago, Toolmaker72 said:

Gave my little Ford Fiesta boot a clean today and then a photo. 

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Super clean!

 i need to doctor up my front door panels, i was hesitant to cut the shape of the Pioneer Pro Audio 6x9's grille shape but did it anyway, someday i'll figure it out.

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On 8/9/2020 at 11:17 PM, SupraChrgd82 said:

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They tubs or subs?! 

Either way 😲

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On 6/16/2020 at 1:41 AM, Toolmaker72 said:

 

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Never actually thought of putting the port through the shelf!

Which is more, space efficient vs sound quality?

A boot box, sub in the shelf and box underneath in the boot, or the sub in the boot, ported through the shelf?  (Although can envisage the kids dropping sweets and paw patrol figures into a port...😳

If some of you guys are over the pond, do you know of any setups that work in a 2nd Gen TransAm?

Doesn't look to be lots of room where the speakers are in the dash, and I'm not intending on making big ,sticking out, pods for the doors.

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52 minutes ago, Wooders28 said:

Never actually thought of putting the port through the shelf!

Which is more, space efficient vs sound quality?

A boot box, sub in the shelf and box underneath in the boot, or the sub in the boot, ported through the shelf?  (Although can envisage the kids dropping sweets and paw patrol figures into a port...😳

If some of you guys are over the pond, do you know of any setups that work in a 2nd Gen TransAm?

Doesn't look to be lots of room where the speakers are in the dash, and I'm not intending on making big ,sticking out, pods for the doors.

The sub enclosure I’ll be using has the speaker hidden inside with the port letting the sound out. Perfect to vent via the rear metal shelf.  The enclosure in the boot then allows the amplifiers to be bolted to it and out the way.   Fingers crossed I’ll still have easy access to a full size spare wheel and usable luggage space.    That car is still a way off being complete......only just got the bottom painted 😳

 

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all in all Bass is non directional to a point, not much you can do in a car vs Home Theater where you have more placement options. some subs require no porting, all depends on liters or cu.ft., and the sub used.

still trying to wrap my head around rear firing (backward installs) of subs looks neat though. i read it's mostlyfor looks doesn't do anything for sound.

every aspect of sizing you install in a box, will determined on a correct amount of baffling. air chamber space and the sound deading ( a thickness if you will) to contain the power of sub woofer(s).All i know if it fits and take in consideration of manufacturing recommendations they should work beyond our hearing (feeling the thunder)thus comes down to gains i think? too much bass, too little bass, different tracks i find i need to dial in the EQ, but not too often, if it's subtle i leave it be.

looks like you are having some fun, nice roll cage, you can mount some speakers there, i'll let you:D.............. well you could.

 

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On 6/16/2020 at 3:45 AM, ACCEL said:

 i'm assuming  rear firing subs into trunk? that said make sure you isolate other speakers in the rear deck. PRESSURE!

When you say Isolate the rear speakers, do you man have the rear side of them in a separate enclosure to the output side of the Sub?

I am running an Alpine CDA 9812RB head unit with Alpine R Series fronts, and Pioneer TS-A2013i's in the rear shelf, and an Alpine 12" Sub and amp in the boot. 

Also, should i be running the Sub normal or reversed? 

I have a Kenwood 4 channel amp I want to stick in the boot to power the main speakers. Location is an issue. I wanted to mount it under the rear shelf, but was worried about vibration from the speakers.

Newish to this High end ICE stuff. Advice greatly appreciated

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H e l l oooooo! FoxShot,

Ok let's see here, or hear here:lol:

Never ever share space with subs not even themselves nor other speakers in the same cabinet or enclosure (Remember Pressure), each sub can be contained in one so called enclosure, and share that in two separate half's within that sub woofer enclosure), but that cabinet or enclosure needs to be sealed off for each side Left and Right sub woofer.

 ok then there's baffling like a maze  for the port (if ported) non ported no baffling needed(Sealed Enclosure). Then according to Manufacturing specs of specific sub there is a formula on cu. ft. and or litres of volume to accommodate air space, volume and pressure and yes it does have a great effect on your bass sound waves and how each sub reacts to the reaction of the voice coils flexing like Hercules:D remember BASS is not just Sound It's Air Movement to the extreme.

ok not all enclosures need to be square but dimensions of circumferences then come into play.

 JL Audio 8W7-3...

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Once again all Manufactures and sizes are going to be different.

one sub or more?

Ohms?

 Dual Voice Coils or single?

Series or Parallel?

oh the fun!

as far as your boot (i'm assuming you mean the trunk?)

it's a phenomenon to me, i'm a front firing guy, when you have lots of space they choose to rear fire these subs, looks, competition , not for me at least for the application on placement i had no choice.

Home Theater Cambridge 15" Sub Woofer down firing, a Polk Audio Dual 10" SW side firing, both beyond what any two eared human can stand and always wanted to go SVS one day,

Awe the choices are truly endless.

WE LOVE IT LOUD!!!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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14 hours ago, FoxShot said:

When you say Isolate the rear speakers

as long as these rear speakers what ever they are, 6x9, 6.5" ect... can go in the doors or next to or above of the subs as long as they are not sharing the same air space internally.

 

 

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As the man above said, but put plainly if you fit speakers in a parcel shelf then no boot mounted sub as when the sub moves it’s affecting the air in the boot which in turn is moving the parcel shelf mounted speakers.  Generally speaking you with have a fabulous sounding system using just the front speakers and boot mounted sub.  If you still wanted parcel shelf speakers and a boot mounted sub then you need to box the shelf speakers so they have there own enclosure space unaffected by the subwoofer.

 

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