TT02RRRSR Porsche 911 Carrera

[Juhunio 6830]

The next step was building up the front and rear ends, and some key hop-ups..

Universals and aluminium uprights for the front, and the kit-supplied 3deg toe rear uprights:

The universals go together very easily, and the Jazrider uprights are very well made. The bearings fit snugly but not too tight (as is sometimes the case with these after market uprights, the ones in my DF03 were very very tight), and also include aluminium upgrades for parts A6, A8 and A10 which is a bonus. A bit of threadlock for the metal screws into metal uprights...

And onto the chassis...

Then onto the rear end. No universals here...as I'm fitting the 911 RSR shell, I need to replicate the 'wide' track setting from the standard TT02 kit, but without all the plastic outdrives and axles. So instead I'm using these 50808 long wheel axles, and the kit dogbones

Hopefully they'll give me the track I need for the wide rear RSR arches and wheels

I've set the front and rear up as the 'High' ride height setting, just to give a bit more flexibility in terms of where I might be able to drive it!

[Juhunio 6830]

Then onto the dampers, using these 42102 TRF dampers.

These are an absolute joy to build, in the end using the green medium weight oil as recommended in the set up instructions that come with the dampers.

This is a heavier weight than comes with the kit, and the piston set up is different too (2 hole all round rather than 3 in front and one for the rears)

One interesting thing is the use of a urethane bushing between the oil seal and the mounting hook. Not seen that before!

They were a total pleasure to build, and are super smooth set up as per the instructions. I used the TT01 set up guide as assumed close enough?

[Juhunio 6830]

Then onto the steering, using the full TT02 upgrade set 54752

This is beautifully made, and even just at assembly stage offers a smoother, more robust steering action sitting on those bearings!

I decided to use a Savox low profile servo in this build, I also had some blue aluminium turnbuckles in the spares box, so used them for added blueness 

This caused a problem though. The servo is very small, and the position of the servo lead in the case means the TT02 servo mounts don't fit! And yes, I had built it the wrong way up, but it still wouldn't have fit 

Cue mild panic, some swearing, and a trip to the electrics spares box to dig out an Etronix low profile servo, the same as I had fitted to the White Edition build, so I knew would fit.

I had dismantled the servo saver from the Savox, and rebuilt it on the Etronix, before I remembered I had this....an Eagle Racing aluminium TT02 servo mount! A case of too many luxury hop ups, and almost forgetting to fit one  

It fit the Savox perfectly so....I dismantled the Etronix, re-affixed everything to the Savox (the right way round this time!), and in it went 

[Juhunio 6830]

In with the electrics. One consequence of using the servo mount is you can't mount a receiver on top of the servo! I had to fit it between the ESC and motor, thankfully the servo lead was just about long enough

I've seen this picture of the forthcoming Tamiya 54977 TT02 servo mount, it looks like it has a wider, flatter bar across the top of the servo so won't have the same issue, which is cool

And that's the bulk of the chassis pretty much finished!

[Juhunio 6830]

Then it was on to wheels and tyres. I decided to use chrome-effect wheels, rather than the dull grey that comes with the kit, so bought these 50672 / 50673 cheap as part of an RC Mart order. Ignore the med-narrow tyres in the pic, I've used 26mm radials for now while waiting for some super grip radials to match the rears to arrive from Germany

Having got the chrome hubs, I needed to do something about the caps. First off I roughed them up with some light sandpaper, then gave them a clean before applying a light coat of fine white surface primer. I did the wing mirrors at the same time, priming them first and using the same paint as the body shell, but in reverse; Bright Gun Metal first, them the Sky Blue anodised aluminium. They came out as a pretty good match for the shell

The intention was to replace the kit stickers with orange equivalents from MCI, and spray the wheels to match, but when I applied the orange stickers to the painted body they were too pale, it was all too washed out. So in the end I decided to use the kit red stickers (a tough call, as I genetically hate red!!), and to spray the wheels to match

They look pretty good, finished off nicely with some 53160 wheel nuts from Tony's Tamiya Parts 

And when test fitted with the body, I was pretty pleased with the track fitting. The rear's actually better than the front, those long axles seem to do the job

The final step of the chassis build was to fit the body posts, bumper, carbon bumper support and FRP battery plate, using some of the foam pads to create a buffer with the battery

[Juhunio 6830]

That just leaves the inevitable box of bits to go in the spares box...

And all the spare plastic bits, along with the Hop Up tags and instructions and electrical boxes, to go back in the kit box and up in the loft

It's been a really satisfying build, and I've definitely learned some lessons along the way!

[Juhunio 6830]

I will post some better pictures of the finished build asap, once the weather improves enough to get outside and take a decent photo. For now, these will have to do. The stickers and wing mirrors are attached, I didn't do a great job of the window rubber/chrome on this side (which I did first), the other side is better (learning from mistakes!). I also used the optional clear stickers for the headlights, and have some Tamico light buckets for it that I will try out at some point. I've left the front indicators clear, as am going to paint those with PS translucent orange at some point too.

 

[DeadMeat666 1675]

Great build thread as usual. I have a few comments/questions:

1. I think the body would look a little better one notch down on the body posts, that last pic shows too much space at the top of the wheel arches.

2. Isn't the receiver going to bake like a potato between the hot motor and the hotter esc?

3. What size hexes did you use for the back wheels? Those long axles seem to require something like 9mm+ hexes just so the ends don't stick out of the wheel centers.

4. How does it run? Have you tried it yet? I have the exact same esc/motor combo planned for my TT02S build, and I was wondering whether the chassis can handle that amount of power.

5. Does that esc come with a battery connection already attached or did you have to solder one on?

[Carmine A 2046]

11 hours ago, Juhunio said:

Thank you, much appreciated positivity, and definitely true on the self-critical nature of hobby modelling  

Do you mean this one? I’m going to use this on my drift build when I finish it. If it is this one you mean, then worth noting it has the markings for the holes in the bonnet, I assume for the rally lights, irrespective of whether you are going to build to rally spec or not. So if you are going to paint it as a road car, in a lovely metallic finish (as I have), you will have those divots in the bonnet which is a bit frustrating. But if you’re going to use it as a rally finish, then it’s all good!

ERMAGHERD it's exciting, seeing that Body that I've wanted for 4 years!!! I even like the Colour!! 

Yup, that's the one. 😊 I really hope to get one at some point.

[Carmine A 2046]

I agree with @DeadMeat666 that maybe the Rear Body Mounts could go down one peg... 

Other than that - GORGEOUS!!! Absolutely gorgeous. I enjoy seeing the lowly TT-02 Chassis reaching its potential. Only thing is - you can't quite call it a "Budget Ride" anymore!! 😜😁

You have convinced me to revisit my 4 year old TT-02, which started as a build like yours, until I frustratingly ran OUT of money 😭😭😭😖  I've got the Blue FRP Tub Chassis, and Blue FRP Diff Covers and Motor Cover... Yeah Racing CVDs, 65mm Shocks and GPM Steel Diff Gears - so far... 

Thank you so much! You've presented a beautiful Build, and inspired me to get out of bed.

[ChrisRx718 4470]

Looks fantastic.

Just a quick word of warning re: metal parts, if you have ball connectors try not to put aluminium-on-aluminium (like your front uprights). Reason being, the weak point becomes the ball connector and the aluminium ones, as pretty as they are, aren't particularly strong. What will likely happen if you tap that front end is the threaded part of the ball connector will shear off inside your aluminium upright, then it's a nightmare to extract.

If you have any, go with the black (steel) versions in any aluminium parts.

[Juhunio 6830]

15 hours ago, ChrisRx718 said:

Looks fantastic.

Just a quick word of warning re: metal parts, if you have ball connectors try not to put aluminium-on-aluminium (like your front uprights). Reason being, the weak point becomes the ball connector and the aluminium ones, as pretty as they are, aren't particularly strong. What will likely happen if you tap that front end is the threaded part of the ball connector will shear off inside your aluminium upright, then it's a nightmare to extract.

If you have any, go with the black (steel) versions in any aluminium parts.

Once again, that is a proper top tip, thank you! You seem to add one of these golden nuggets to each of my build threads, I really appreciate it 

I'll dig out some steel ball connectors and swap out the aluminium ones. Then go back and double check my other builds too 

EDIT: the box-o'-bits came up trumps with steel ball connectors. I assume the brass ones are just as weak as the aluminium?

[Juhunio 6830]

18 hours ago, DeadMeat666 said:

Great build thread as usual. I have a few comments/questions:

1. I think the body would look a little better one notch down on the body posts, that last pic shows too much space at the top of the wheel arches.

2. Isn't the receiver going to bake like a potato between the hot motor and the hotter esc?

3. What size hexes did you use for the back wheels? Those long axles seem to require something like 9mm+ hexes just so the ends don't stick out of the wheel centers.

4. How does it run? Have you tried it yet? I have the exact same esc/motor combo planned for my TT02S build, and I was wondering whether the chassis can handle that amount of power.

5. Does that esc come with a battery connection already attached or did you have to solder one on?

Thank you! In response to your comments / questions:

1. Agreed, it's actually a little tight if I drop it down one. The front is fine but the rear arch impacts on the tyre when the suspension is compressed. I'm going to try some 2deg toe in rear uprights (as opposed to the kit 3deg) to pull the back of the wheel in a little bit, and also a slightly thinner hex hub. I've also got some different thicknesses of body mount pads on the way too to help with smaller adjustments

2. No idea, but time will tell I guess? I can't think where else to put it? Also, it's not like the buggies I've built (DF03, Boomerang) where the motor is crammed into a really tight space and the ESC is squeezed under a shallow body, both with minimal air flow. There is a lot of space and air flow under this shell, plus the motor heat sink, so I would hope there is enough air cooling and heat extraction? We'll give it a go, see what happens!

3. Good point, forgot to mention that in the thread. They're 9mm at the moment, but might well go down to 8mm based on (1) above

4. No idea, it's been chucking it down ever since I finished it! Watch this space...

5. Out of the box, there's no connection and you will need to solder one. If you buy them from Modelsport, they offer a service to solder on whatever battery connector you want plus motor leads. This is one that they did for me, which I ordered for my DF03. But in the end I needed a much shorter battery cable in there to get everything to fit and not clash with the prop shaft, so I bought another one and cut / soldered it myself. The one in the TT02 is the one they soldered for me, I assume at a relatively 'standard' cable length, and everything fits fine in the TT02; all that lovely SPACE! Soldering is something I don't hugely enjoy and don't seem to be getting much better at, so if I go brushless in any future TC builds then I think I would just use the Modelsport service again

[Shodog 1835]

That anodized sky is a tricky paint to work with. First time I used it was on a HPI cup racer body. You have to spray the body several light coats.  I sprayed a piece of scrap Le an and when I put the backing paint it changed the sheen of the paint.  So I didn’t back it which was a mistake because the paint is so light 

The next time I used the paint was on my axial blazer body. I sprayed too many to count light coats until I exhausted the can. Then I waited a couple of days before backing with silver then painted the white accents. It worked out killer

[Juhunio 6830]

18 hours ago, ChrisRx718 said:

....the threaded part of the ball connector will shear off inside your aluminium upright, then it's a nightmare to extract.

Let’s say, hypothetically, that this has, theoretically, happened. How do you get that sheared thread out of the aluminium upright?

Hypothetically, like. Asking for a friend 

[Juhunio 6830]

22 minutes ago, Shodog said:

That anodized sky is a tricky paint to work with. First time I used it was on a HPI cup racer body. You have to spray the body several light coats.  I sprayed a piece of scrap Le an and when I put the backing paint it changed the sheen of the paint.  So I didn’t back it which was a mistake because the paint is so light 

The next time I used the paint was on my axial blazer body. I sprayed too many to count light coats until I exhausted the can. Then I waited a couple of days before backing with silver then painted the white accents. It worked out killer

Definitely agree that it is a particularly tricky, light paint to work with. I did similar to you really, many very light coats (maybe 8?) until the can was drained, then left it overnight before adding the gun metal.

The biggest mistake was the final coat of pearl white. There's a slightly dusty texture to it which does show through in a couple of places, maybe just a normal white would have been better. But you have to know where to look, and it is being hyper self-critical

Then in the final results there are little drip blotches and fine scratches in the sky colour, if you look closely enough, despite the application being many super light coats and having thoroughly washed and dried the shell. Don't really understand how that happened, but it did 

[ChrisRx718 4470]

6 hours ago, Juhunio said:

Let’s say, hypothetically, that this has, theoretically, happened. How do you get that sheared thread out of the aluminium upright?

Hypothetically, like. Asking for a friend 

I learned the hard way 

On mine it was a TA03 Racing Steering set (aluminium arms) not especially rare back then (2008) but nowadays it would make one cry!

i guess you could try to drill it out, depending on the part shape and whether you could drill straight enough. Access to a pillar drill would be best, working your way up with small drill bits. I can’t imagine the easy-out reverse thread tools for 1:1 cars go down to M3 thread size?

I believe the brass ones aren’t favoured by racers because they’re heavier and wear / corrode? Steel ones make the most sense to me, especially if your technique for connecting / disconnecting ball connectors involves inappropriately sized metal pliers and a bunch of ham-fistedness 

[Shodog 1835]

7 hours ago, Juhunio said:

Let’s say, hypothetically, that this has, theoretically, happened. How do you get that sheared thread out of the aluminium upright?

Hypothetically, like. Asking for a friend 

There is a tool called an ez-out which is a basically a reverse drill. You dril a hole in the snapped bolt then use the ez-out shoved in the hole. As you turn it to back it out the ez-out digs into the bolt 

[Juhunio 6830]

13 hours ago, Shodog said:

There is a tool called an ez-out which is a basically a reverse drill. You dril a hole in the snapped bolt then use the ez-out shoved in the hole. As you turn it to back it out the ez-out digs into the bolt 

Yup, unfortunately my other issue was threadlock. I used a Dremel heat gun and was able to safely remove all the threadlocked aluminium ball connectors from the expensive Tamiya steering set (phew!) and one of the cheap Jazrider uprights. Unfortunately on the other upright I applied not enough heat, and too much torque, and snapped it. At that point I just couldn't see a way of having enough hands to apply heat, drill in a tap, hold everything steady and not set fire to myself! Unless I could take it off the chassis and get it into a vice maybe....

Brilliantly, I had also threadlocked the screws that hold the upright to the upper and lower arms, and it's nigh on impossible to get heat in there without melting plastic, especially the hop-up adjustable upper arms. So it was a choice between what to sacrifice, and the upright lost! I was able to get a hacksaw behind the top and bottom screw heads and saw it off, thus salvaging the upper arms, lower arms and low-friction suspension balls. I've ordered some more uprights, but for now rebuilt it all with the kit plastic upright on one side.

You live and learn! 

This lesson has been all about not pairing aluminium with aluminium, and only using threadlock in places where you will safely be able to apply heat if you ever want to take it apart again 

[Juhunio 6830]

14 hours ago, ChrisRx718 said:

Steel ones make the most sense to me, especially if your technique for connecting / disconnecting ball connectors involves inappropriately sized metal pliers and a bunch of ham-fistedness 

Please, I'm better than that!

I use a massive flathead screwdriver 

[Carmine A 2046]

5 hours ago, Juhunio said:

Yup, unfortunately my other issue was threadlock. I used a Dremel heat gun and was able to safely remove all the threadlocked aluminium ball connectors from the expensive Tamiya steering set (phew!) and one of the cheap Jazrider uprights. Unfortunately on the other upright I applied not enough heat, and too much torque, and snapped it. At that point I just couldn't see a way of having enough hands to apply heat, drill in a tap, hold everything steady and not set fire to myself! Unless I could take it off the chassis and get it into a vice maybe....

Brilliantly, I had also threadlocked the screws that hold the upright to the upper and lower arms, and it's nigh on impossible to get heat in there without melting plastic, especially the hop-up adjustable upper arms. So it was a choice between what to sacrifice, and the upright lost! I was able to get a hacksaw behind the top and bottom screw heads and saw it off, thus salvaging the upper arms, lower arms and low-friction suspension balls. I've ordered some more uprights, but for now rebuilt it all with the kit plastic upright on one side.

You live and learn! 

This lesson has been all about not pairing aluminium with aluminium, and only using threadlock in places where you will safely be able to apply heat if you ever want to take it apart again 

Been there, done that, got the T-Shirt, and burned out my Lighter during the encore!!! 😜😂😄

This is a good argument for Titanium Screws. I may look into that.

I try to use Threadlock sparingly..... But we've ALL done that at least once!! 😲  I had to hack up the front end of my TA-03 - exact same reason.

[TwistedxSlayer 1290]

@svenb

 

Titanium screws have been mentioned dude...

[svenb 3778]

Phwoar🤩

[Juhunio 6830]

Changed the rear uprights from Tamiya 3deg to Yeah Racing 2deg, and the rear hex hubs from 9mm to 8mm, and the track fit is better, lower on the body mounts and no clash with the tyres 

Also switched the Tamiya FRP battery plate for a Fastrax CF one, which looks way cooler 

I think it looks awesome (apart from the bits of masking tape for the indicators, STILL waiting for paint) , and now we've had a few dry days it's going out for its first test run tomorrow...

 

 

[Juhunio 6830]

Along with its drifty stable mate...