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Juhunio

TT02RRRSR Porsche 911 Carrera

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Hopefully there’s room for another TT02 build, with some tasty hop ups!!
 

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Following this one, I'd like my next build to be a TT02, what body are you planning? 

 

 

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3 hours ago, bozatron said:

Following this one, I'd like my next build to be a TT02, what body are you planning? 

 

 

I have a Porsche Carrera 911 RSR body shell, wheels and tyres, which I'm going to paint either pale blue or sky blue anodised aluminium and just use the Carrera decals 

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Liking the sounds of the bodyshell plans. I don't have an RSR in my Porsche collection, but that's only because the Fuchs wheel inserts aren't currently available :lol:

I remember my first TT01D which I threw all the hop-ups at in a similar fashion to what you're creating. All I'll say is try not to be too disappointed with the end result and take it for what it is; an entry-level car with lots of shiny bits.  

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So the kit is Tamiya 47382, the TT02RR chassis. In the kit you get a good selection of hop ups over and above the standard TT02:

  • Adjustable Upper Arms
  • CVA Dampers and Springs
  • Oil filled gear differential units
  • Lower Deck (Hard, Blue)
  • Aluminium Rear 3.0 deg uprights
  • Aluminium Prop Shaft
  • Aluminium Prop joints
  • High Speed Gear Set (68T)
  • Full ball bearings
  • Metal drive shafts and wheel axles
  • 5mm ball connectors
  • 5mm aluminium short ball nuts
  • 5mm aluminium ball connectors

To which I am adding just a couple of extra Tamiya hop ups:

  • 53792 Universal Shafts
  • 54623 Wheel axle with axle ring
  • 54752 Steering Upgrade set
  • 53571 TRF Fluorine Coated Damper Set
  • 54814 Carbon Bumper Support
  • 54640 Rear Carbon Damper Stay
  • 54555 FRP Battery Plate Set
  • 54571 Aluminium heat sink

There's then some bits of Far East shiny stuff which may or may not be useful, other than looking pretty:

  • Yeah Racing Upper Suspension Mounts
  • Yeah Racing Lower Suspension Mounts
  • Yeah Racing Battery Posts (I've read elsewhere that the kit parts are a weak point, and these are a worthwhile upgrade)
  • Eagle Racing Aluminium Servo Mount
  • Jazrider front uprights

And then some GPM steel gear parts that I may or may not use in the drivetrain, to replace the ring gears and prop shaft gears. Various reports of issues with the kit diffs flexing under load and these steel parts helping with that, other reports that with careful building and shimming the kit parts are fine. I'll try the kit parts first and move to these if needed:

  • GPM TT2100/G1-BK Steel Ring gear for TT02 (x2)
  • GPM TT2100/G2-BK Steel Propeller shaft gear for TT02 (x2)

Power is going to come courtesy of Hobbywing Quicrun Brushless 120 ESC and Motors

I'm going to get started over the next couple of days!

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29 minutes ago, ChrisRx718 said:

I remember my first TT01D which I threw all the hop-ups at in a similar fashion to what you're creating. All I'll say is try not to be too disappointed with the end result and take it for what it is; an entry-level car with lots of shiny bits.  

Yeah, I'm treating it all as a learning curve really, how different builds work, how the different tech works, how the touring chassis differ from the buggy builds, all that stuff. I want to get plenty of practice under my belt before I touch the Vaillant!

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7 minutes ago, Juhunio said:

So the kit is Tamiya 47382, the TT02RR chassis. In the kit you get a good selection of hop ups over and above the standard TT02:

  • Adjustable Upper Arms
  • CVA Dampers and Springs
  • Oil filled gear differential units
  • Lower Deck (Hard, Blue)
  • Aluminium Rear 3.0 deg uprights
  • Aluminium Prop Shaft
  • Aluminium Prop joints
  • High Speed Gear Set (68T)
  • Full ball bearings
  • Metal drive shafts and wheel axles
  • 5mm ball connectors
  • 5mm aluminium short ball nuts
  • 5mm aluminium ball connectors

To which I am adding just a couple of extra Tamiya hop ups:

  • 53792 Universal Shafts
  • 54623 Wheel axle with axle ring
  • 54752 Steering Upgrade set
  • 53571 TRF Fluorine Coated Damper Set
  • 54814 Carbon Bumper Support
  • 54640 Rear Carbon Damper Stay
  • 54555 FRP Battery Plate Set
  • 54571 Aluminium heat sink

There's then some bits of Far East shiny stuff which may or may not be useful, other than looking pretty:

  • Yeah Racing Upper Suspension Mounts
  • Yeah Racing Lower Suspension Mounts
  • Yeah Racing Battery Posts (I've read elsewhere that the kit parts are a weak point, and these are a worthwhile upgrade)
  • Eagle Racing Aluminium Servo Mount
  • Jazrider front uprights

And then some GPM steel gear parts that I may or may not use in the drivetrain, to replace the ring gears and prop shaft gears. Various reports of issues with the kit diffs flexing under load and these steel parts helping with that, other reports that with careful building and shimming the kit parts are fine. I'll try the kit parts first and move to these if needed:

  • GPM TT2100/G1-BK Steel Ring gear for TT02 (x2)
  • GPM TT2100/G2-BK Steel Propeller shaft gear for TT02 (x2)

Power is going to come courtesy of Hobbywing Quicrun Brushless 120 ESC and Motors

I'm going to get started over the next couple of days!

#WINNING :D

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On 6/16/2020 at 11:50 AM, ChrisRx718 said:

Liking the sounds of the bodyshell plans. I don't have an RSR in my Porsche collection, but that's only because the Fuchs wheel inserts aren't currently available :lol:

I remember my first TT01D which I threw all the hop-ups at in a similar fashion to what you're creating. All I'll say is try not to be too disappointed with the end result and take it for what it is; an entry-level car with lots of shiny bits.  

Are the Fuchs inserts these ones:

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If so these are a spare set bundled into a Tamico order, so if you still need some let me know. They cost me €8, so just looking to cover that plus UK postage

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35 minutes ago, Juhunio said:

Are the Fuchs inserts these ones:

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If so these are a spare set bundled into a Tamico order, so if you still need some let me know. They cost me €8, so just looking to cover that plus UK postage

Thanks for the offer buddy, but I have them on order with my hobby shop and don't want to have to cancel on them if that makes sense? Unfortunately they've been on order since February time <_<

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8 minutes ago, ChrisRx718 said:

Thanks for the offer buddy, but I have them on order with my hobby shop and don't want to have to cancel on them if that makes sense? Unfortunately they've been on order since February time <_<

No bother, I'll stick them up as a trade, just wanted to give you first dibs :)

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Following! 

Ive been toying with my first road car build and this is going to tip me over the edge...

debit cards about to get ruined 🤣

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I won't go into too much detail, as there are a million and one TT02 builds out there, but just mention the few points of difference with this kit, and key things I have learned along the way

Firstly, getting your pinion choice right. I've always just gone with what came with the kit, irrespective of what motor I might have fitted. More recently have been learning about FDRs and proper gearing, which has led to a total overhaul of spur and pinion on my DF03, and pinion on my brushless Boomerang.

So for this build I actually read the manual that came with the 8.5T motor and ESC (both Hobbywing Quicrun), which recommend an FDR of between 5.0 and 6.3 for 1/10 touring car, so I chose the kit 64T spur and an RW Racing 28T steel pinion, to give me an FDR of 5.9. I can go up to 29T for 5.7 if needs be.

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I am going to build the prop shaft and diff using these GPM metal bevel and ring gears, just as something different to the kit plastic. If they prove to be too noisy, or too much work for the motor, I can always swap them out at a later date

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The prop shaft had a good bit of play in the cups even with the o-ring in the front, so I put a bit of foam padding in the rear to fill the gap without creating additional load

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There was also a fair amount of play fore and aft of the bearings, both front and back, so I added some 0.2mm shims in a couple of locations to tighten that up a bit while making sure everything could still spin freely. 

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Then onto the oil filled diffs. Very different to the usual kit diffs; metal spider gears, only two of them, o-rings around the outdrives. Oh, and filled with oil, not grease!

There were some hints around these forums that maybe they are prone to leaking from the o-ring, so I put some green slime underneath the o-rings to create an additional seal

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Getting that pin in that secures the outdrive would test the patience of a cathedral ceiling-full of saints! There really isn't room, but with some careful tweezering, and twisting the outdrives, and many a deep breath, they're in!

Then in with the spider gears...

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And finally the oil. The kit supplied oil is very liquid, only 3000 weight. After some reading around these amazing forums the concensus seems to be use a much heavier oil in the front, with the lighter oil in the rear. 

So I used the kit oil in the rear diff, and a heavier 500k Tamiya Diff oil in the front. That stuff is unpleasant to handle! In the end I used an old ice lolly stick to paste it into the diff; it is verrrrry sticky stuff!

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Once you fit the upper bevel gear and the GPM ring gear, the diffs are finished and can be fitted to the chassis.

The next step of interest is the adjustable upper arms, which are adjustable through the insertion of a turnbuckle between two plastic pieces, which are pretty similar in form to a standard TT02 upper arm, but cut in half. Getting the first turnbuckle in took ages, but once you have the knack the other 3 (2 front, 2 rear) went in fine.

The instructions are pretty hilarious, for what is essentially a toy (don't @ me!!). The front ones you have to adjust until they are "approximately 49.5mm" long. Approximately, to the half mm??? Same with the rears, which need to be "approximately 44.5mm" :lol: So I approximately got out my digital callipers (which I'm pretty sure teenage me didn't have knocking around his hobby box) and got them approximately right.

Does seem very fiddly though, for what ultimately looks like quite minimal adjustability. I used some low friction suspension balls, just because...

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The use of these arms means that the TT02 carbon front damper stay isn't compatible, so it's kit plastic only, along with a set of YR aluminium upper and lower suspension mounts. 

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Then built up the rear, using the TT02 carbon rear damper stay (which does fit with the rear adjustable arms), making sure to set the upper and lower arms to the 'Short' setting to accommodate the wheelbase of the 911 RSR shell

Then fixed the motor mount, motor, heat sink and YR aluminium battery posts, and that was it for yesterday.

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On to Section B later on!

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Oh, one thing, in case anybody reads this and can shed some light...

Here is the primary instruction for fitting the rear upper arms to create a standard wheelbase:

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Then here is the corresponding instruction from P19, flipping the arms over to create the short wheelbase:

 

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Note the addition of what looks like two small screws into the top of the adjustable arms. There is no reference to what screw that is (length, width, type, part code), and it doesn't appear in the standard instructions (first pic)

I couldn't find a screw in the kit that might be relevant so am at a loss. Is it just a mistake on P19, or have I missed something??

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4 hours ago, DeadMeat666 said:

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Nice one, thank you. I was still in Bag A on Step 14, so hadn't got that far through yet! 

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Yesterday I took advantage of the good weather and had my first go at layers of different spray paints

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it's miles from perfect, with loads of unexplained splodges and blotches. I've no idea what I could have done to make it better, but painting these things is frustrating especially when you don't have hundreds of sponsor stickers to hide your mistakes :lol:

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I see nothing wrong with that Body. In fact I LOVE the Color!! 👌💯  Of COURSE when I'm working on my own, I can usually point out at least 100 things wrong with it!!! 😠😜  It's just how a Model Builder rolls....

I'm glad you posted "yet another" TT-02 thread. I've been battling mine, that I started 3 years ago! Chassis is done - I think. I did the Blue FRP Chassis, Motor Cover and Diff Covers, Blue Anodized Propshaft and Ends, Yeah Racing 65mm Aluminum Shocks and CVDs, 21T Brushed Motor, and some things that I've forgotten!! I did some creative grinding, for 15mm Ground Clearance (Rally Car). 

No Body! 😭 For one, I'm holding out for the 240Z Body.... Two - I can't afford ANY Body with Interior Plate.

YOURS really looks the business!! 😎  It may inspire me to go back to trying to make something out of it.... 

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On 7/25/2020 at 6:27 AM, Carmine A said:

I see nothing wrong with that Body. In fact I LOVE the Color!! 👌💯  Of COURSE when I'm working on my own, I can usually point out at least 100 things wrong with it!!! 😠😜  It's just how a Model Builder rolls....

Thank you, much appreciated positivity, and definitely true on the self-critical nature of hobby modelling :) 

On 7/25/2020 at 6:27 AM, Carmine A said:

No Body! 😭 For one, I'm holding out for the 240Z Body.... Two - I can't afford ANY Body with Interior Plate.

Do you mean this one? I’m going to use this on my drift build when I finish it. If it is this one you mean, then worth noting it has the markings for the holes in the bonnet, I assume for the rally lights, irrespective of whether you are going to build to rally spec or not. So if you are going to paint it as a road car, in a lovely metallic finish (as I have), you will have those divots in the bonnet which is a bit frustrating. But if you’re going to use it as a rally finish, then it’s all good!

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