burakol 462 Posted June 22, 2020 Hello. I am stumped. On the process of attaching the rear drives of the Hotshot to the chassis. Upon referring to the manual, I’m somewhat confused on what screw/nut I need to secure the lower section. The manual called for a plastic spacer part A4 and a black metal screw but no mention a nut. But for the top part, or called for a black metal screw, a washer, and a flange nut to the opposite side. Am I missing something here? When I look at the other side by the propeller joint, theres not enough room for a nut because it will interfere/hit the propeller joint How do i secure this bottom screw so i cam safely attach the rear drive to the chassis? Am I missing something here or did the manual have a misprint? Thanks for the help. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Snappy1 966 Posted June 23, 2020 Swap the end that the bolt goes in from to face the other way , with the screw head next to the driveshaft there is enough clearance Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AJB123 107 Posted June 23, 2020 I’ve had a quick look at my rere, and I think that screw is just tapping/threading into the plastic, and doesn’t have anything on the other end. If you use that plastic spacer then the tip of the screw ends up pretty much flush with the plastic where you’ve drawn the blue circle, with no thread sticking through to put a nut on anyway. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burakol 462 Posted June 23, 2020 2 hours ago, Snappy1 said: Swap the end that the bolt goes in from to face the other way , with the screw head next to the driveshaft there is enough clearance I will try to do that... problem is, the driveshaft is blocking my access to slip the screw in... I have ot figure out how to clear the driveshaft in order for the screw to go in the hole. 2 hours ago, AJB123 said: I’ve had a quick look at my rere, and I think that screw is just tapping/threading into the plastic, and doesn’t have anything on the other end. If you use that plastic spacer then the tip of the screw ends up pretty much flush with the plastic where you’ve drawn the blue circle, with no thread sticking through to put a nut on anyway. Not sure about this since the screw just slides and no signs of threaded plastic... what type of screw does the rere use? the black headscrew that the manual refers to is more like a metal screw and is not self-tapping... Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AJB123 107 Posted June 23, 2020 4 hours ago, burakol said: Not sure about this since the screw just slides and no signs of threaded plastic... what type of screw does the rere use? the black headscrew that the manual refers to is more like a metal screw and is not self-tapping... It's a gold-ish colour, not black, but otherwise the same. It matches the other one with a nut. Rere manual is here: https://www.tamiya.com/english/rc/rcmanual/hot_shot.pdf I guess the interesting test is how long the screw is. If you're using one of the exact 30mm length the manual wants, with that A4 spacer, does the end of the screw actually come through the plastic at all to be able to get a nut on? If it's pretty much flush with the plastic like I think mine is then I suspect it's meant to self tap into something on its way through. I can check mine again this evening if it helps - I just had a quick glance last night. ps Tamiya do sometimes use fine threaded screws self-tapped into plastic. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burakol 462 Posted June 23, 2020 Yes it is flush. If the thread is not biting into the plastic, then what do you think my options are? Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AJB123 107 Posted June 23, 2020 4 hours ago, burakol said: Yes it is flush. If the thread is not biting into the plastic, then what do you think my options are? Assuming I'm right about it being self-tapping despite not being a self tapper, can you tell which bit it used to thread into - the wide gearbox casing or the plate outside it? I can't remember doing that bit of mine. You might be able to put a sliver of plastic into the hole, perhaps even gluing it in place, but that's not always essential, and hope that that give enough for the screw to bite. If it pushes the screw sideways, then half of the screw can start to grip on the half of the hole away from the sliver, so sometimes that works even if it's not glued. It's not got any force trying to pull that screw out, but it will get quite a bit of vibration... So I'm not sure if that'd work or not. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burakol 462 Posted June 23, 2020 I decided to use a slightly bigger threaded screw. This one is shorter so i will do away with the plastic spacer. It's about 3.35 mm compared to the 3mm so it will bite enough. Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
burakol 462 Posted June 23, 2020 29 minutes ago, AJB123 said: Assuming I'm right about it being self-tapping despite not being a self tapper, can you tell which bit it used to thread into - the wide gearbox casing or the plate outside it? I can't remember doing that bit of mine. You might be able to put a sliver of plastic into the hole, perhaps even gluing it in place, but that's not always essential, and hope that that give enough for the screw to bite. If it pushes the screw sideways, then half of the screw can start to grip on the half of the hole away from the sliver, so sometimes that works even if it's not glued. It's not got any force trying to pull that screw out, but it will get quite a bit of vibration... So I'm not sure if that'd work or not. Both the gear box and the plate/body hole are big so I will use a bigger screw. Hopefully it does not create too much stress and end up cracking anything Share this post Link to post Share on other sites