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Mark3gti

Project return to the track Trf415ms

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Steering mod progress

 

mocked up on a spare 415 chassis, then realised the sus block for the arms is further in on a ms inwards

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not assemble correctly but was checking it was going to fit. I know it should. But wanted to see it..

Marked a line where I wanted the posts to mount 

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Then just decided to go for it last night, I was able to use the spare chassis to line up holes by sliding backwards till I got them where I wanted, marked them out.  And away we go, nice and slow to keep the dust from Flying and risk damaging it.

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test fitted posts to make Sure the heads are flat.

 

brand new counter sink blunted after a few try’s, had to use a larger drill by had and after a while got there..

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Finished, well until I can get some 419 steering posts.. 👍

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may space the servo forward slightly to try and line up the servo arm.. 

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19 minutes ago, Nicadraus said:

What drill bit did you use for creating countersunk holes?

I used a counter sink bit, but the carbon fibre killed it way too fast. Must need a better quality one. Tbf it was a screw fix special.. 

but then I used a hss 5mm drill bit by hand as they have a angle on them which suited the screw head.  And just kept turning by hand until the head of the screw went flush. Obv don’t wanna go at it with a drill in case you go all the way through.. 😪

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Hopefully landing tomorrow! 🤞

 

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want to get it finished up ready for a outdoor meet shortly, was hoping this weekend, but will have to be the next one all being well! 

 

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Goodies arrived today! 
 

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had to use the fiber shims for now, need to pickup 3-4  4mm Id 0.1mm shims instead of fibers but they do they job.

now the front belt isn’t hard up against the spur gear holder it’s more centered, it’s close to plastic ridge now but i don’t think it’s touching. 
 

Pleased with the outcome on this.

and also realized I’d have to fit the cross brace now I don’t have the one piece top. And surprisingly it fits now, when I tested originally it didn’t, but now I realize as typing it’s to do with belt tension and the diff is further back now. 

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50398437903_e592fd9cbc_b.jpg 50399290257_e3dbf064dd_b.jpg

Shorty lipo fits the bill. It’s a bit less mah wise than I wanted but not many sub 20mm high packs for reasonable budget money. And this for 21 can’t be grumbling. It’s 140c burst 280c I think. So more than capable. 

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as expected it’s down on weight, but need to fit a couple of posts to stop lipo moving, and will be taping in. All adds weight, so expecting to add 100g of ballast. 
but does give me the flexibility of balancing up well.  Well if I had any corner scales! 😪

going to look to see if I can find 4 miniature cooking scales that are super tiny or may not bother and save for proper ones. 
but im Only racing local club so no big time for me just yet..

Please don’t judge the shell, it’s well Used and retired,  it good for a rough weigh in.. 😁

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definitely pleased with how it’s turned out.  And think Ive come as far as I can without spending big bucks to get to msxx mr stick pack spec..

 

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Oh, actually I have the savox to fit tomorrow :) so still a bit to do! :) 
 

hoping to race it at least once outdoors this year, was going to be this Sunday, but due to covid and track and trace and all that, I didn’t want to risk it as we are hopefully🤞🤞 going away as a family for a few days and don’t want to jeopardize that family time. 
but fingers crossed there is one more meet in the weather.. 🤞

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balance jig knocked up for left and right balance weight distribution check.

 

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floating with 125g ballast added 

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Work in progress. To save having loads of weights off car rims stuck all over, opted to make a brass plate weight combined shorty holder

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unfortunately they didn’t make to the size I requested, so a bit short, but will be cutting the slot clearing and will bolt down through the cell divider parts of the chassis, following with some posts to stop it moving forwards and backwards then taping down as normal.

 

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looks quite neat I think.. but may wrap it I can’t be sure.. 😆

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had set it up once bull all changed as replaced all the tie rods to some titanium ones I had. 
 

 

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Had my phone strapped on to test to see if the top speed was still as expected with a shortie
and also after checking the esc was programmed as blinke as I’d reset it and lost reverse so had to get hold of a program box.

 

almost ready pre weight addition, could tell one side was much lighter when driving it

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was zero d before hand

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After a run on the street

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Software edit via laptop as this box was the slightly older 2 in 1 and so wouldn’t program the esc directly,  but thankfully worked ok via laptop. 
just have to remember to have a laptop with me when racing initially.

hoping if someone has one I can try the later box see if it works or maybe it is just now going to be a laptop job: or I could put back old firmware on the esc to enable the box 

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