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LATEST UPDATE: The rig has now been fitted with the Proline Cherokee body.  See: https://www.tamiyaclub.com/forum/index.php?/topic/94694-scx10-g6-jeep-cherokee-rebody/&do=findComment&comment=812097

 

I've been a bit fed up with my SCX10 G6 body for a long time.  Truth be told, I'm not much of a Jeep person.  I first bought the truck with the intention of fitting an old Bruiser body, but the wheelbase was off and, although changing scaler wheelbases is as easy as cutting threaded rod with a hacksaw, I never bothered.  For a brief time I ran it with a caged bobber body but never really liked that either.  I've started on various body swaps in the past and always given up and gone back to stock.

So yesterday, this happened.

This, believe it or not, is a very old Blackfoot body.  It's been well-used and came to me very much like this - a collection of bits - in a random trade with a former TC member.

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The wheelbase is a bit off, but I figured I could line up the rear arches with the rear axle, then chop the front end out to give better steering clearance.  It's going to be a ratty truck, after all.  I can always fill in the gap with an absolutely insane custom 3D printed grille anyway (I have a few crazy ideas).

I had to get started with some repairs to the body before I could work out how it was going to fit.  Then I had some issues with body depth - to clear the big wheels it will either have to mount quite high (high enough that there will be a gap between the body and the chassis), or I'll have to chop more of the arches out.  OK, I was going to do that anyway, but I'd be left with very little meat on an already flimsy setup.  With a crisis of confidence, I put the body aside for the glue to dry and grabbed out a JConcepts 1984 F150 body from storage.

I'd bought this body for my Clod rebuild, but the project got stalled while I wait for some other stuff on the slow boat from China.  I love the body but don't like the scale - IMO it looks more 1:8 than 1:10.  Now, OK, I know many 1:10 monster truck bodies are actually smaller than 1:10, but this one isn't even in scale with other 1:10 JConcepts bodies.  I don't really get it.  I can put my '90 and '93 F150 bodies right inside this one with room to spare.  It's humongous.  The 13" wheelbase makes it something of a beast.  Given how much I'm loving monster trucks at the mo, and how monster trucking started with early Ford bodies stuck over big axles, I figured this might actually be a good compromise between a capable scale crawler and an early-style monster truck, with a traditional ladder chassis and wheels that wouldn't immediately be illegal on the highway.

To make it work over the SCX10, I'd have no choice but to extend.  Last night I started stripping down the chassis.

This morning, this happened.

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It's a chassis jig left over from my TXT rebuild.  This rig is actually longer than my TXT.

Now I'm having another crisis of confidence.  The Ford body looks great, but somehow it still looks too big.  It seems a little lost over the SCX10.  It might be that I'll throw on some 2.2s with fat rubber and suddenly it will look great again, but it will no longer be a capable Class 2 scaler, which is kind of why I have it.

So - should I stick with the bigger JConcepts body, or should I shorten the wheelbase and fit the old Tamiya?  I can have the JConcepts rig ready in a few evenings as it's just extending links and finding body posts, but the Blackfoot body is going to need lots of work.  A complete cage to stiffen up the back end, covering panels to hide the wiring, a half-baked attempt at an interior (I could cut the lexan one out of the G6 body), and an entire custom front grille, because I don't have a proper Blackfoot item.

I don't know.  Answers on a postcard, please...

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Hi Mad Ax - I can't really help, other than to agree with you that generally speaking, RC bodies and especially the 'crawler' market have scales that are all over the place - not least as the manufacturers tend to make the bodies to fit their [predetermined] chassis/wheelbase length, rather than the other way around...

A classic example is the Land Rover Defender Ninety of course - which in 1:1 size has a 93" wheelbase, which ought to be 237mm or thereabouts in true 1:10 scale - but is typically on a 275mm or longer [RC4WD] chassis, and hence somewhere between 1/9th and 1/8th in size (sorry, I'm not that good at maths to be spot on ;o) - while the worst offender is their FJ40 Body (which is huge compared to a real SWB FJ Land Cruiser) - proportionally it looks even bigger than the D90!

In that regard, I've built both of those with larger wheels and aimed for an overall larger scale to keep things in proportion; and that would be my suggestion - match the wheel & tyre diameter to the body you want to use so that it looks 'right' - and adjust wheelbase and axle width/offset with spacers and different rod lengths etc. to keep everything dimensionally correct overall?

Jenny x

ps. conversely, when I was building the Baja Blazer recently, I wanted a slightly smaller body to fit around the Twin Hammers cage, so bought a genuine Clod Buster shell - only to find that while the wheelbase and overall length was similar to the RC4WD K5 Blazer body, it was far smaller overall - the Clod being based on the longer wheelbase K10 pick up of course - so more like 1/12th scale when you look at the size of the doors and the cabin... ultimately I ended up extensively butchering the original oversize RC4WD body to make something that worked proportionally closer to 1/10th with the rest of the chassis and driver etc. - although it is far easier to achieve successful surgery with a hardbody rather than lexan of course.

 

 

 

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I had the same problem when I wanted to build a truck out of a body I had already bought, the wheelbase was too long. In the end I used the cab and attached it to a bed made from aluminium which I'm still waiting to finish. 

I would say that the second body and some bigger wheels would look good, if you are going to alter the chassis anyway.

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19 hours ago, Mad Ax said:

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Love the scale G clamp B)

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Had a lot more scale G clamps than that when I left the glue drying :D

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OK, further updates from the past couple of weeks.  I wasn't happy with the chopped body so I made some extended links and test-fitted the JConcepts body.

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I think it looks great, but to run this body over these tyres I'd either have to mount the body very high, chop out the arches, or restrict the articulation - and I didn't want to do either of those.  So, back to the drawing board.

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I ended up going back to the Proline Cherokee body that I originally bought for this rig way back before the Axial Cherokee body was released.  So with the jig re-assembled again for the shorter Cherokee wheelbase, I made up some new links.

The interior in these pics is not a genuine Proline item - it's a cheap knock-off from China.

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This is (still) going to be a Class 2 rig, so cut arches are the norm

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That's about as far as I've got - the arches are cut, the interior is mounted, the next big job is to mask and paint the body.  Got a few ideas for colour schemes but there's a lot of little details to mask on that Jeep body if I want to keep it scale.  Updates to follow whenever I can be bothered to mask the body.

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So - I came up with a colour scheme and, in between rounds at the Cotswold Model Car Club race event last weekend, I got the body masked for painting.  Last week was kind weather-wise so I managed to get into the workshop and throw on plenty of coats of paint, much to the complaint of my lungs, which spent the next 7 days convincing me I had the 'rona.  Note to self: trying to bodge carbon filters designed for fabric shopping masks into a knock-off 3M respirator mask is not sufficient to prevent the user from breathing large quantities of paint dust.

Basically- black with orange bits.  Or orange with black bits.  The two-tone scheme meant I kept some variety to the body without having to mask around all the window edges.  I did trim off the overspray film and paint the bumpers and lower side panels in an automotive satin black paint, to represent plastic parts.  This may well scrape off in use but maybe it will look like the truck has gained some scratches?

As usual I'm a bit disappointed in the orange paint.  I didn't want it dayglo bright, but to me it looks a bit too plasticky, a bit too kid's toy orange, a bit too primary colour.  Having been stung by backing Tamiya PS-2 Red with white last month, and discovering that although the colour looks great the shell is still translucent so anything on the back of the shell affects the final colour seen, I decided to go back to my old tricks of backing this with silver.  That's probably why it looks a little dull.  Maybe I should back with white and then silver..?

Results are reasonable - TBH I kinda rushed it a bit and put some marks in here and there, but no bother, the finished truck will probably get run hard (unless I raise the cash for a new scale truck next month) and will pick up plenty more marks.

I made a mistake and forgot to mask off the indicator sections so I cleaned them off with cotton swabs and Carson paint killer.  Considering how seriously thick I slammed these coats of paint on, it came off really easy a day later:

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Anyway, enough faf - here it is:

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Still plenty of work to do in these photos.  I want to add some kind of arch extension (3D printed sounds great but my resin prints will be too brittle for practical use) and I still need to sort a body mount solution.  I thought I had something but it's too awkward to use in practice.  I also need to redesign my front winch mount - not sure if I'll build something from ally or update my 3D print design.  A mate now has a pretty big FDM printer so I'll be able to get things done locally and reasonably.

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