setting up TA-03F

[jhellman(2)]

Hi,

I have very standard TA-03F and would like to make it better to drive. Since the motor is up front, it seems that the center of gravity of close to front wheels, which causes very good steering response. The downside of this one is that rear slides too easy.

I've tried to compensate this by using stiffer springs front and it helps quite considerable, it is much easier to drive now, but there is still room for improvement I feel.

What kind of experience you have on the "53276 ta03 colored stabilizer set". Do they help in this issue?

I haven't yet changed to stiffer oils in front, but that is one thing I'm considering. Any hints what is suitable viscosity (front/rear).

Please, in cease you have done your home work setting ta-03F (standard version, not pro of David Jun), please post your recommendations. Also interested whether you use toe-in/0/toe-out + other setups that you have ended up.

best regards,

Juha

[WillyChang]

quote:Originally posted by jhellman

I have very standard TA-03F and would like to make it better to drive. Since the motor is up front, it seems that the center of gravity of close to front wheels, which causes very good steering response. The downside of this one is that rear slides too easy.

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The weight distribution isn't as far in front as you think, its pretty well balanced amongst the wheels once you've got your battery and RC gear in there. Yes its quite a lively car.

quote:I've tried to compensate this by using stiffer springs front and it helps quite considerable, it is much easier to drive now, but there is still room for improvement I feel.

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Softer springs at the rear would give you more grip there.

How high is your car riding, do you have spacers *inside* the shock?

I'd adjust rideheight to about 5mm by putting spacers inside the

shock; perhaps set the rear a little lower than the front.

What tyres are you using too, something decent? Same all round?

quote:What kind of experience you have on the "53276 ta03 colored stabilizer set". Do they help in this issue?

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Antiroll bars do not help unless you've got problems with traction rolling, they'll just reduce your grip all round. If so I'd first reduce rideheight to minimum before trying these. Those that put them on just "for show" imho are just silly.

quote:I haven't yet changed to stiffer oils in front, but that is one thing I'm considering. Any hints what is suitable viscosity (front/rear).

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I think the usual quote is 60 front & 40 rear as a starting point. Me I prefer a livelier rear end so usually run same oil all round.

If your instability is mainly on the straights, invest in a body with a good rear wing. These things make a big difference.

quote:Also interested whether you use toe-in/0/toe-out + other setups that you have ended up.

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I'm running between zero toe to a little toeout at the front.

Try zero or even toein 1-2deg if you don't like it lively.

The rears are factory set to about toe-in 2 or 3 degs I think.

Beauty of the TA03 is that you can experiment with TA03R configuration, with or even without the 03R's tub (with battery further forward). You may want to buy the TA03R front gearbox case if so, but these are cheap. You can keep your existing 'std' shocks and shock tower, you don't need to use the short SuperMiniCVAs.

[jhellman(2)]

Hi,

thanks for advices;

I haven't yet tried softer springs at rear, I'll try that in next session.

Yes, the rear is adjusted a bit lower that front, that did help a bit as well.

The instability happens in corners, especially when entering the corners. The back end spins too easily, thus it doesn't feel too balanced when breaking or releasing the gas fast + turning in the corner simultaneously. In straights it goes like "on rails".

I'll also try both 60 and 80 in front shocks and keep the rear as it is (40).

The tyres should be ok (even old), they are touring car slicks (53224 I think). OK, it is quite cold still in Finland (10 C, round 55 F) at the moment, so the grip isn't the best either. However, if tires would be bad all round but chassy would be in balance otherwise, it would slide in controlled 4 wheel slides. Now it slides sideways with rear trying to get ahead of front, thus chassis needs tuning. I'm not trying to make it a rally car[]

Thanks for comments, I'll try these ones. Any further advice is appreciated.

br,

Juha

[WillyChang]

I am assuming you have full ballbearings in your car?

In ours, occasionally the bearings can fill up with dirt and jam solid, especially the large 1510 on the front knuckles. This can also cause "sudden" oversteering when slowing down at corners. Just make sure your bearings are all rolling smoothly.

Also check that your suspension arms are flopping smoothly, and the hingepins are not binding. If you have to replace any, buy the Tamiya stainless-steel set with the E-clips.

[jhellman(2)]

Hi,

yeps, you guessed right, it is ballraced. It rolls smoothly, just replaced bushings with ball bearings during the winter (I bought this car as used just 4 months ago). They are clean and very smooth rolling.

Thanks for the tip about suspension arms, will check those as well, but I suspect they are fine, since it behaves similar way turning right and left.

I'll go hunt better handling with these tips, any further tips are appreciated as well.

br,

Juha

[miramar]

Below you'll find David Dun's setup tips for the TA03F, as published on Tamiya America's website in 1999. Not suitable for all drivers, all surfaces and all tracks, but it could be a good starting point:

Differentials

The diffs are one of the most important adjustments of the car, so play close attention whe you build or rebuild them. Assemble the diffs according to the instructions but with these hop-ups:

53219 Aluminum Pressure Plates

53124 3mm Tungsten-Carbide Diff-Ball Set

53217 Hard Joint-Cup Set.

Diff Rings. When you install the diff rings, look at them carefully, and put the round side facing downward so that the sharp-edge side faces the diff balls. The sharp-edge side is a little flatter and will make the differential work a bit more consistently.

Thrust Bearing. I replaced the thrust bearing with a single tamiya 5X11 sealed bearing and two large cone washers. Install the 1150 ball bearing, then the two cone washers ("clamshelled" together) and, finally, the 4mm bolt. When I tighten the diff, I hold it on its side so that gravity will not pull the cone washers or the bearing to one side or the other.

Joint cups. To prevent the joint-cup teeth from stripping, put a little Tamiya liquid thread lock on them.

Saving weight.

Front gearbox. Cut off the unused parts of the mounting posts above the motor. From the lower half of the gearbox, remove the outside mounting posts, then trim the front bumper enough to make it just profil the gearbox.

Rear Gearbox. Cut away the left and right tabs in front and hollow out the compartment so the receiver will fit in the centre of the car. Also, Dremel the rear swaybar mount area.

Battery Brace. Cut out the X portion.

TA03 Stabilizer Set.

Front: Yellow

Rear : Red

Dampers.

Springs: blue

30W oil.

With small plastic washer inside, ride height should be 5mm and level.

[WillyChang]

Haha, I think he's running a standard "plastic" 03, Miramar.

No balldiffs nor FRP/graphite chassis. []