BDAD : DN(F)01(Sadly gone) and DT02 shenanigans.

[Jontea 334]

Body and wing left to do.

 

[matisse 1581]

47 minutes ago, Jontea said:

Servo fitted, not much room, when I get round to buying a digital one, may go for a smaller model.

 

Low profile ftw.

[Jontea 334]

Shells not perfect, but mine never are, and as my buggies are runners/bashers (no shelf queens here), I'm happy with it.

Not sure I have the diff set up right, never got on with ball diffs, have ordered the CTE Shapeways TA06 gear diff conversion, now the search starts for 54471 (on the cheap).

 

[Jontea 334]

Core RC metallic blue, full can, backed with Core metallic silver, half a can, removed window masks, 3 light coats of Tamiya PS5 black for the windows, minimal stickerage, velcro tape to mount the body.

And just for the heck of it, the Tamiya trio.

 

[Jontea 334]

As I had 2 body shells, and good weather, seemed rude not to, went with the TRF wing for this body, slightly wider.

Core RC Hot Pink, backed with the remaining metallic silver, windows done with the dregs of Tamiya PS5 black, only just enough left.

 

 

[Jontea 334]

Been for the initial outdoor test drive, splendid car, accelerates well (to start with), steering is spot on, which for me is a first, usually have to tweak steering arm rod lengths to get it going in a straight line.

One fully charged battery usually does me about 30-40 mins, not tonight, after about 15mins acceleration was slow, checked it wasn't over heating, all good, then looked at diff, had it set up right, couple of tests at home, to bed it in, slight adjustment was needed, now it won't tighten at all, and there's a bit of play in the outdrives, presume I've either over tightened it, or summat has come loose in the gearbox. To annoyed to do owt now, will strip it down tomorrow evening to have a look.

Outcome, gear diff can't come soon enough.

[rwordenjr 1890]

4 hours ago, Jontea said:

Been for the initial outdoor test drive, splendid car, accelerates well (to start with), steering is spot on, which for me is a first, usually have to tweak steering arm rod lengths to get it going in a straight line.

One fully charged battery usually does me about 30-40 mins, not tonight, after about 15mins acceleration was slow, checked it wasn't over heating, all good, then looked at diff, had it set up right, couple of tests at home, to bed it in, slight adjustment was needed, now it won't tighten at all, and there's a bit of play in the outdrives, presume I've either over tightened it, or summat has come loose in the gearbox. To annoyed to do owt now, will strip it down tomorrow evening to have a look.

Outcome, gear diff can't come soon enough.

Which gear diff did you get ? 

[Manix92 121]

5 hours ago, Jontea said:

Been for the initial outdoor test drive, splendid car, accelerates well (to start with), steering is spot on, which for me is a first, usually have to tweak steering arm rod lengths to get it going in a straight line.

One fully charged battery usually does me about 30-40 mins, not tonight, after about 15mins acceleration was slow, checked it wasn't over heating, all good, then looked at diff, had it set up right, couple of tests at home, to bed it in, slight adjustment was needed, now it won't tighten at all, and there's a bit of play in the outdrives, presume I've either over tightened it, or summat has come loose in the gearbox. To annoyed to do owt now, will strip it down tomorrow evening to have a look.

Outcome, gear diff can't come soon enough.

Sorry if I'm getting this wrong. You didn't bed the ball diff in before you took it out and gave it beans? Though with brushless and no slipper clutch I think it would always be doomed - too much initial torque I would think. I'm pushing it using a Super Stock with no slipper clutch (which I am still waiting for postman ).

My ball diff has been OK so far other than stripping the plastic nut on the outdrive adjusting it but there was a spare in the kit. I think I used a near enough a full battery bedding it in.

[Rb4276 803]

Highjacking your thread has anyone used a caged thrust bearing in their dn01 or 201? I was told this will fit on a facebook page

[Rb4276 803]

6 hours ago, Jontea said:

Been for the initial outdoor test drive, splendid car, accelerates well (to start with), steering is spot on, which for me is a first, usually have to tweak steering arm rod lengths to get it going in a straight line.

One fully charged battery usually does me about 30-40 mins, not tonight, after about 15mins acceleration was slow, checked it wasn't over heating, all good, then looked at diff, had it set up right, couple of tests at home, to bed it in, slight adjustment was needed, now it won't tighten at all, and there's a bit of play in the outdrives, presume I've either over tightened it, or summat has come loose in the gearbox. To annoyed to do owt now, will strip it down tomorrow evening to have a look.

Outcome, gear diff can't come soon enough.

Sounds like your diff loosened, happens to me pretty much every time ive rebuilt the diff even after breaking it in. Once it sets you should be fine until a rebuild is needed. 
please post pics when you do the gear diff, it may sway me to buy it, then unload all the ball diff spares i have. I have 4-5 of everything. 

[Manix92 121]

Looks like @Rb4276 will be the guinea pig on the cage thrust bearing, well volunteered . Cool if it does work.

[Rb4276 803]

1 minute ago, Manix92 said:

Looks like @Rb4276 will be the guinea pig on the cage thrust bearing, well volunteered . Cool if it does work.

True seems i will be, to be honest i havent run it since i rebuilt the chassis. Ive been on an egress and re re optima kick. I also only ran It maybe a half a dozen times since i rebuilt the diff in the winter so it may be a while,for results

[Howards 456]

I ran the stock diff without the slipper with brushless and it survived, but I gave it TLC as I knew these had a reputation:

- all the ball diff grease!
- bedded it in with a drill after building it then re-tightened, checked on the drill again
- ran it quite tight from the off, much tighter than the same hybrid construction diff in my stock DB01
- although rapid enough for me, the 9t motor I used hasn't that much torque as it's one of those 380 in a 540 can jobs 
- motor is also sensorless which affects /delays standing start torque AFAIK
- I profiled the acceleration on the transmitter to delay full power so it never gets full gas from a standing start

Ran a good few hours through it on grass, it didn't die, despite the motor generating more heat than the sun. 

It now has the TRF metal outdrives and the metal diff nut. 

[Jontea 334]

Will post a pics of what I find once I open the gearbox up this evening.

Don't know if this is a daft question or not, does it matter which way the diff goes in, ie which side of the car should the adjustment screw be on?

[Jontea 334]

4 hours ago, Manix92 said:

Sorry if I'm getting this wrong. You didn't bed the ball diff in before you took it out and gave it beans? Though with brushless and no slipper clutch I think it would always be doomed - too much initial torque I would think. I'm pushing it using a Super Stock with no slipper clutch (which I am still waiting for postman ).

My ball diff has been OK so far other than stripping the plastic nut on the outdrive adjusting it but there was a spare in the kit. I think I used a near enough a full battery bedding it in.

No, I bedded it in, with a few of runs at home, checking and adjusting if needed. Didn't give it full beans, to start with, gradually built up the power.

Anyhow, fettling/tinkering is my thing, now I have an actual reason to strip the buggy down.

Cheers all for thoughts, will let you know what I find.

[Jontea 334]

4 hours ago, rwordenjr said:

Which gear diff did you get ? 

Tamiya part 54471, and ordered CTE gearbox casing from his Shapeways page. The diff is the rear from a TA06.

[rwordenjr 1890]

57 minutes ago, Jontea said:

Tamiya part 54471, and ordered CTE gearbox casing from his Shapeways page. The diff is the rear from a TA06.

you can't use the stock gearbox casing? im interested in putting gear diff in but only with all tamiya parts 

[Howards 456]

1 hour ago, rwordenjr said:

you can't use the stock gearbox casing?

You can put a leaky Kyosho diff in there, but you need to Dremel out the bearing shoulders as the Kyosho diff is slightly wider than the stock. There is no Tamiya gear diff that fits. The 211XM has a transmission that takes either ball or gear diffs, so it was something they thought about later on. 

[Jontea 334]

10 hours ago, rwordenjr said:

you can't use the stock gearbox casing? im interested in putting gear diff in but only with all tamiya parts 

Not with a Tamiya gear diff, as Howards said, with a kyosho gear diff yes. I can understand why you would want to keep it strictly Tamiya, but they don't make the parts, so it's down to enthusiastic hobbists, preferably ones that are qualified engineers ( ThunderDragonCy of CTE fame is), to dream up, model, prototype, then have produced the parts we need to get the car we want. That's what's so fantastic about this forum, the bodges, hacks, work arounds, and some superb engineering that goes on here, and is made available to those who want it, and long may it continue.

Back to my ball diff pains, think I've found the culprit, N19, the little plastic (?!) piece that keeps tension on the diff had stripped threads, a spare has gone in, after sticking the diff in a drill several times, and checking tension, gearbox is rebuilt, having had a thorough clean and regrease of all parts.

Still going with gear diff though.

[Manix92 121]

16 minutes ago, Jontea said:

Not with a Tamiya gear diff, as Howards said, with a kyosho gear diff yes. I can understand why you would want to keep it strictly Tamiya, but they don't make the parts, so it's down to enthusiastic hobbists, preferably ones that are qualified engineers ( ThunderDragonCy of CTE fame is), to dream up, model, prototype, then have produced the parts we need to get the car we want. That's what's so fantastic about this forum, the bodges, hacks, work arounds, and some superb engineering that goes on here, and is made available to those who want it, and long may it continue.

Back to my ball diff pains, think I've found the culprit, N19, the little plastic (?!) piece that keeps tension on the diff had stripped threads, a spare has gone in, after sticking the diff in a drill several times, and checking tension, gearbox is rebuilt, having had a thorough clean and regrease of all parts.

Still going with gear diff though.

Deja vu of what happened to mine @Jontea . I think the thread is a mean M2.5. The TRF nut is steel but good luck finding one of those. I put the spare on and have the other prefilled with Super Steel resin if it happens again.

What I do now is push with a small screw driver on the plastic nut to help reduce the chance of stripping when I adjust it. You will probably find now though the ball diff will be fine though anyway for the time being.

[Jontea 334]

13 minutes ago, Manix92 said:

Deja vu of what happened to mine @Jontea . I think the thread is a mean M2.5. The TRF nut is steel but good luck finding one of those. I put the spare on and have the other prefilled with Super Steel resin if it happens again.

What I do now is push with a small screw driver on the plastic nut to help reduce the chance of stripping when I adjust it. You will probably find now though the ball diff will be fine though anyway for the time being.

You're probably right about it running ok from now on. When I had my TRF I had a servo mount crisis, panicked, ordered some from Tony's Tamiya Parts, lockdown happened, I sold the TRF, forgot I'd ordered them, parts arrived last week, and it's the N parts tree, so I have the spare that came with the DN01 kit, and a further 2 off Tony to go at if needed.

[Seanster43 222]

Just finished reading your build really enjoyed it sorry I missed it! Top work mate. 

[Jontea 334]

All is well (for now) in diff land. No "barking", no slipping.

Thanks all.

[Finnsllc 917]

On 7/18/2020 at 7:21 AM, matisse said:

Low profile ftw.

[Jontea 334]

Gear diff conversion gearbox casing has arrived, 2 weeks ahead of schedule, 3.1mm drill bit (for drilling gearbox/motor plate mount bolt holes), and a box of black RIT dye (for wheels).

Just needed the gear diff and TRF 201 motor plate to find it's way from Hong Kong to Cheshire (fingers crossed).