Advice about F1 chassis.

[Clutch88]

Hello,

 

After an extended break from RC, I recently completed a Sand Scorcher rebuild, which I really enjoyed.  I am interested in purchasing a Tamiya F1 chassis, f102,f103, f104 etc. However, I have no idea where to start.

 

It would be great if someone could tell me the difference  between the various f1 chassis, if spares are easy to source and if any models are considered to be 'better' than the rest. I have had a quick look on ebay, i see a few come up relativity frequently. But, would like a bit more info before I try and get one, or see if anyone on here has one they would be willing to part with.

 

Thanks.

 

 

[TurnipJF]

In a nutshell, the higher the number, the more recent the chassis and therefore the more likely you are to get parts for it. That said, the venerable F103 is still quite easy to get parts for, so don't let that put you off getting one.

Above the F10X range you get the TRF10X range, again with the higher numbers being the more recent chassis. TRF parts are typically more expensive and difficult to find, but again not impossible, and the performance of the cars is mind-boggling.

[futureworks]

I’ve been looking at the TRF’s, as they look very interesting. I currently have a F105 15th Anniversary which I need to build, but I do think these days, reasonably priced Tamiya bodies and wings seem hard to find 😫

[Clutch88]

1 hour ago, TurnipJF said:

In a nutshell, the higher the number, the more recent the chassis and therefore the more likely you are to get parts for it. That said, the venerable F103 is still quite easy to get parts for, so don't let that put you off getting one.

Above the F10X range you get the TRF10X range, again with the higher numbers being the more recent chassis. TRF parts are typically more expensive and difficult to find, but again not impossible, and the performance of the cars is mind-boggling.

Thanks for that, i did wonder about spairs/shells.

 

I shall have a look at the different chassis, and see what i fancy.

[Jonathon Gillham]

If you want to build a new one then the F104 is the easiest to get, I haven't seen an F103 kit available. However, there is the F103GT which could be converted back to an F1 if you really wanted a new F103. I have an F103 and TRF102 and the F103 parts are easier to get hold of than the TRF102. While most parts are interchangeable, things like the T plates are near impossible to find for the TRF102 so I went for aftermarket ones.

If you want a fun runner and car for the shelf it doesn't really matter which you get. You can swap parts  between them anyway, eg put the wide F103 arms on an F104 (available in a kit as the F104W), so you can make a F103 or F104 suit your needs

[TurnipJF]

If you are looking for a 2nd hand one, you shouldn't find it difficult to get hold of a F103. They come up for sale on eBay quite often, and unless supplied with a collectable bodyshell, are often quite cheap. Despite their age, they are still very competitive even in box stock form, possibly because they are a bit wider than most modern F1s so can corner faster, and also probably because the basic design of an RC F1 hasn't changed massively since it was released. Many of the parts from the latest TRF are still interchangeable with those from the F103.

The pinnacle of F103s is the 15th Anniversary Edition which is a full carbon and alloy dream machine - a TRF in all but name, great to build and even better to drive. However the plain fibreglass and plastic ones also run exceptionally well. Even the most vanilla of my F103s doesn't have any difficulty taking on my mate with his brand new F104 Pro II for example. 

The F104 has a few different versions too, including the W version which offers the same width as a F103, the Pro version which has some nice hop-ups, the Pro II which has even more hop-ups and a stronger motor pod, and the Version II Pro which is pretty much a TRF101 with less alloy and more plastic, kinda like a DN-01 compared to a TRF201.

For a shelfer any of them would do, but for racing I would possibly avoid the vanilla F104 because of its weak motor pod. Most T-bar F1s use a single contiguous piece of composite material to form the T- bar and the underside of the motor pod - a nice strong arrangement. The vanilla F104 uses a piece of composite material for the T-bar, but this is screwed to a plastic piece which forms the bottom of the motor pod. They often break at this attachment point. I saw one chap go through three motor pods in a single race meet once.

However Tamiya fortunately learned from this, and with the Pro II they went back to a single contiguous piece which is much stronger. So if you want to race a T-bar F104, this would be the one I'd recommend.

The F104 Version II Pro is also a great chassis, being a very different design to the F104 Pro II despite the similar name. The Version II Pro uses a PBLR arrangement rather than a T- bar, which allows you to adjust pitch and roll spring and damper rates independently. It also has carbon chassis decks as standard, and enough hop-ups to take it to TRF level. This is my F104 of choice.

The TRF F1 range has three versions. The PBLR-equipped TRF101 comes on standard and wide flavours like the F104, and is basically a F104 V2 Pro with all the plastic bits replaced with alloy and carbon. The TRF102 is an interesting design with a hybrid T-bar, in effect giving the pitch behaviour of a PBLR and the roll behaviour of a standard T-bar. The TRF103 also tries to give the best of both worlds, but instead of a hybrid T-bar, it gives the ability to run either a full PBLR or full T-bar rear end. If you want the latest and greatest, this is the one. 

And of you want something quite different, there its also the Tyrrell P34 6- wheeler. The latest version is based on the F103 with a unique front end, and is specced for racing with a TRF pitch damper, precision friction damper plates, foam tyres, carbon reinforced uprights and various other nice extras. It performs extremely well with sharp handling and abundant grip, plus it has a look all its own. 

As for bodies and wings, a genuine Tamiya bodyset representing a real car with a scale livery will not be cheap, but if you are racing, you would probably be better off getting a race shell with less scale fidelity but better aerodynamics and less weight. These are available from a variety of manufacturers, many far cheaper than a Tamiya scale bodyset. 

[Clutch88]

2 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

If you are looking for a 2nd hand one, you shouldn't find it difficult to get hold of a F103. They come up for sale on eBay quite often, and unless supplied with a collectable bodyshell, are often quite cheap. Despite their age, they are still very competitive even in box stock form, possibly because they are a bit wider than most modern F1s so can corner faster, and also probably because the basic design of an RC F1 hasn't changed massively since it was released. Many of the parts from the latest TRF are still interchangeable with those from the F103.

The pinnacle of F103s is the 15th Anniversary Edition which is a full carbon and alloy dream machine - a TRF in all but name, great to build and even better to drive. However the plain fibreglass and plastic ones also run exceptionally well. Even the most vanilla of my F103s doesn't have any difficulty taking on my mate with his brand new F104 Pro II for example. 

The F104 has a few different versions too, including the W version which offers the same width as a F103, the Pro version which has some nice hop-ups, the Pro II which has even more hop-ups and a stronger motor pod, and the Version II Pro which is pretty much a TRF101 with less alloy and more plastic, kinda like a DN-01 compared to a TRF201.

For a shelfer any of them would do, but for racing I would possibly avoid the vanilla F104 because of its weak motor pod. Most T-bar F1s use a single contiguous piece of composite material to form the T- bar and the underside of the motor pod - a nice strong arrangement. The vanilla F104 uses a piece of composite material for the T-bar, but this is screwed to a plastic piece which forms the bottom of the motor pod. They often break at this attachment point. I saw one chap go through three motor pods in a single race meet once.

However Tamiya fortunately learned from this, and with the Pro II they went back to a single contiguous piece which is much stronger. So if you want to race a T-bar F104, this would be the one I'd recommend.

The F104 Version II Pro is also a great chassis, being a very different design to the F104 Pro II despite the similar name. The Version II Pro uses a PBLR arrangement rather than a T- bar, which allows you to adjust pitch and roll spring and damper rates independently. It also has carbon chassis decks as standard, and enough hop-ups to take it to TRF level. This is my F104 of choice.

The TRF F1 range has three versions. The PBLR-equipped TRF101 comes on standard and wide flavours like the F104, and is basically a F104 V2 Pro with all the plastic bits replaced with alloy and carbon. The TRF102 is an interesting design with a hybrid T-bar, in effect giving the pitch behaviour of a PBLR and the roll behaviour of a standard T-bar. The TRF103 also tries to give the best of both worlds, but instead of a hybrid T-bar, it gives the ability to run either a full PBLR or full T-bar rear end. If you want the latest and greatest, this is the one. 

And of you want something quite different, there its also the Tyrrell P34 6- wheeler. The latest version is based on the F103 with a unique front end, and is specced for racing with a TRF pitch damper, precision friction damper plates, foam tyres, carbon reinforced uprights and various other nice extras. It performs extremely well with sharp handling and abundant grip, plus it has a look all its own. 

As for bodies and wings, a genuine Tamiya bodyset representing a real car with a scale livery will not be cheap, but if you are racing, you would probably be better off getting a race shell with less scale fidelity but better aerodynamics and less weight. These are available from a variety of manufacturers, many far cheaper than a Tamiya scale bodyset. 

Fantastic, that's a great in-depth explanation of all of the various chassis.

I think an F103 or 04 would suit me. However, I had looked at the Tyrrell 6 wheeler... I shall see what I can find.

[Fabia130vRS]

In my honest opinion it would be the best to buy a F104W. Since F103 cars with their width are more stable then the F104.

 

the F104W is a F104 with longitudinal battery and 200mm width compared to a standard F104 170mm width.

 

for making a F104W a F104 you need the front suspension arms and rims. 
 

the F104ver2 is the most adequate F model for brushless as it is not limited by the motor mount side walls for bigger pinions.

[t3garett]

I know it won t help but don t Forget the great f201 !

[TurnipJF]

If you are considering an F201, you might prefer a TC-01? Similar idea, but newer, representing a Formula E car. Not Formula 1 I know, but that way lies the future, right?

[Fabia130vRS]

2 hours ago, TurnipJF said:

If you are considering an F201, you might prefer a TC-01? Similar idea, but newer, representing a Formula E car. Not Formula 1 I know, but that way lies the future, right?

While the F201 is a topic, what kind of wheels hex size does the F201 use? Having some ideas at the moment

[TurnipJF]

1 hour ago, Fabia130vRS said:

While the F201 is a topic, what kind of wheels hex size does the F201 use? Having some ideas at the moment

Standard 12mm hex fitting I believe. 

[Fabia130vRS]

16 minutes ago, TurnipJF said:

Standard 12mm hex fitting I believe. 

My idea was to put them on a m chassis 1000TCR Abarth.

 

dimensions or offset is a question...