Should we have a Nitro thread?

[netsmithUK]

Just wondering as I got my Terra Crusher up and running today and do I have a lot of questions do ask. I can either do it here or set up a Nitro thread somewhere - what do you reckon. Many Terra Crushers out there?

Don't really want to go off to other boards to find stuff out, if poss.

BTW incase you haven't driven one they are absolutely great. Get one. No batteries and they are just the quickest thing I have ever driven.

My first question would is

I've got the breaks working but reverse doesn't it just stalls every time. Any tips?

[rc-martin]

I've had one for about 3 months, like you say, they're a hoot! I too have trouble getting reverse from a stand-still position, but it doesn't stall, maybe your tickover screw wants winding in a bit.

The reversing problem is due to the rod that goes into the top of the gearbox jamming. (I think, (had gearbox to bits!)) Not sure how to cure it though.

Have you had any problems setting the mixture?

Don't take life too serious, you'll never make it out alive!

[netsmithUK]

I was reading the manual and it says a lot of reverse problems are caused by the disc brakes being warn - so I guess I swap 'em and see if it makes it any better.

Got no idea about mixtures and things like that - this is my first nitro and I got it second hand.

All I know is I put fuel in and it goes like a rocket - lots of smoke and noise.

Got lucky when I was setting it up as the controller was set to reverse (ie squeeze the trigger and it stops, push it forward and it goes faster) Thought I'd lost it for ever as it shot off across the fields - i was accellerating instead of braking. Luckily it evenutally got stuck in a hedge.

I have another question - I've read a lot about after running service, and letting them run dry, unfortunately I broke mine (just a little) before it ran out of petrol. I will fix it tomorrow just wandering if its ok to leave fuel in it over night (or maybe a couple of days) ?

[acprc]

Chris......

Very similar to my T-maxx. You should really always try to empty the tank and then put after run oil in the engine through the carb and the cylinder head (under glowplug). A couple of days wont harm the truck but any longer and the fuel will evaporate leaving the oil to ruin the fuel lines plungers etc as it dries. Better to run it dry and then it will last longer. I agree with you though the nitro trucks are superb fun.........

Hope this helps

Adam

[rc-martin]

Nitro fuel is Hydroscopic, and will suck water in like a sponge. If you're leaving it in a cold place where there's likely to be condensation then drain the fuel and run some after-run oil through it, otherwise the internals of your engine will start to corrode and you'll have a ******ed TC.

If its inside and nice and warm then it should be ok for a few days.

Running them till they run out of fuel is also a no-no, as they run out the mixture gets really weak and can damage the glow plug and cause excesive engine wear due to the lack of lubrication.

You could try the brake disc solution, but i reckon you problem lies in the linkage, its a bit trial and error, if you've got the brake rod adjusted to much then the reverse rod will not pull out enough to engage.

What fuel are you using? I'm using Duraglow16 (lots of oil) have wrecked to many engines in the past running on 25% nitro!!!

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom.asp?id=130' rel="external nofollow"> Don't take life too serious, you'll never make it out alive!

Let me guess, you broke the bottoms of the shock absorbers? I broke four of them at an outing to the local quarry recently!!

[Tamiya UK]

There should definetley be a nitro forum, I have just been running my TR-15T this afternoon and it was superb.

Top tip on the fuel though, use nitro propane, not methane, as its the methane in the fuel that attracts moisure when standing for a while.

GX10 from model technics is ideal.

[netsmithUK]

Somehow managed to break (and lose) the metal connector that goes on top of the glow plug. - reckon it must have been on its way out when I got it.

OK, if I have to drain the fuel - how do i do it?

[madbad jezza]

i have to aggree on this one, nitro cars are mint and once you,ve driven one you,ll see electric cars pale in comparison. but engine set up is critical, too lean and it will seize, too rich causes rapid engine wear aswell, and lack of power. i blew the engine up within 6 months of buying my mad bison because i ran the mixture as lean as possible for maximum power - and boy, did it shift!!, it revved that hard and that high that it revved out!, you couldn,t hold full throttle for long because the engine screamed like badword,he!,he!. it took another 6 months to track down a piston and liner kit for it.

i took my time to run it in - 2 tanks on tick-over with a very rich mixture, 2 tanks slow running in circles, the another 2 tanks, and so-on, and so-on. each time after the second tank i leaned off the mixture one click at a time and drove the car slightly faster using more and more throttle. it took ages and i used well over half a litre of fuel to run it in, i used 10% nitro for this. another thing i found was it sucked air in through the needle jet (mixture screw), so i completely unscrewed this then slid a small peice of fuel tubing over the jet, then screwed it back in to its correct setting. as the jet screwed in, the fuel tubing slid over the holder making a nice seal. result - perfect tickover and a clean pick up.

glow engines take a lot of time to understand and need good maintanence, even after every run. i run mine on 16% quickfire and since the re-build i,ve had no problems what so ever. i totaly recommend these cars,there fun with a capital F[].

cheers.

[rc-martin]

quote:OK, if I have to drain the fuel - how do i do it?

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Hold car upside down, open fuel cap. Voila.

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom.asp?id=130' rel="external nofollow"> Don't take life too serious, you'll never make it out alive!

[SJoerD]

To come back to the question whether having a seperate 'Nitro' froum as well: I think we should. It is in a way totally different from the (vintage) electric cars. All questions about those engines, exhausts, 'draining a fuel tank', etc. can be posted there.

I think this will make everything a lot clearer and it will be easier to find all the nitro topics if they are all in a serperate place. I hope you can look into it, Chris. []

Sjoerd

[DJTheo]

Actually there already exists a forum about nitro Tamiyas: http://www.tamiyanitro.com/

[netsmithUK]

Coll thread Theo - but I prefer talking to people i 'know' []

[WillyChang]

quote:

Originally posted by netsmithUK

Somehow managed to break (and lose) the metal connector that goes on top of the glow plug. - reckon it must have been on its way out when I got it.

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id="quote">id="quote">

Huh? From the pluglead or the plug itself?

Unless its an Enya plug, the glowplug doesn't come apart...

quote:

OK, if I have to drain the fuel - how do i do it?

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Hope you've got a squeezy fuel bottle?? []

[WillyChang]

quote:

Originally posted by blondiniboy

Running them till they run out of fuel is also a no-no, as they run out the mixture gets really weak and can damage the glow plug and cause excesive engine wear due to the lack of lubrication.

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id="quote">id="quote">

Dunno... theoretically yes, but don't know anyone who actually bothers to kill their car before the tank runs dry. Its only running lean for say about the last 10 seconds...?

Besides... how would you stop your engine?

1) pinch fuelline = starvation, lean burn, same thing.

2) kick flywheel = stress on crankshaft??

3) remove glowplug = no stress, but Big Mess!

The most I do is, when running continuously, to try top up the tank before running dry - but mainly so that I don't have to restart then engine. Have run gascars at times for nearly 2 hrs straight for a few times - after which the concentration starts going [] and its a good idea anyway to stop in pits to check RX battery voltages.

Imho you'll get more user-damage by overrevving a under-geared car. Nitro engines shouldn't be revved at full for more than 3-5 secs at a constant stretch... you'll easily blow your conrod or toast the plug.

Overgearing the car isn't good either... the straining engine will run hot.

[DJTheo]

quote:Besides... how would you stop your engine?

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You could close the air intake or make the mixture too rich, but I also think those are exaggerated and bring other disadvantages... If you want to reliability buy EP []

[DJTheo]

quote:Coll thread Theo - but I prefer talking to people i 'know'

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No, you want to takeover another market, you Gates you! [][] LOLOL

[rc-martin]

I agree with Theo, covering the air intake is about the easiest way to stop the engine, and is good on TC because the air filter is exposed.

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom.asp?id=130' rel="external nofollow"> Don't take life too serious, you'll never make it out alive!

[SteveH(2)]

I race gas cars competitively, and it seems to be a 60/40 split regarding the best way to stop the engine.... The most common being stopping the flywheel by whichever means (finger if you're brave, and only when the car is on tickover). The other being blocking the exhaust.

It is deffinately not a good idea to let the tank go dry, or 'pinching' the fuel line for the reasons above.

[rc-martin]

I have a Mugen MTX2 which i always stop by touching the flywheel, unfortunatly you can't get near the TC's flywheel cos its surrounded by plastic. Like you say another method is to pinch the exhaust.

http://www.tamiyaclub.com/showroom.asp?id=130' rel="external nofollow"> Don't take life too serious, you'll never make it out alive!

[WillyChang]

quote:

Originally posted by blondiniboy

I agree with Theo, covering the air intake is about the easiest way to stop the engine, and is good on TC because the air filter is exposed.

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id="quote">id="quote">

Err... this is actually pretty stressful on the engine too, as it'll suck in lots of fuel and dies of drowning. Your next restart might also be difficult, if the crankcase is fully loaded.

Possibly the neatest way is to cover the exhaust... this way the backpressure is used to stop fuel mixture getting in to the cylinder and combustion stops. But only works on cars with a rubber/silicone tube on the exhaust or else its pretty painful on fingers.