Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

i wish tamiya would come with a not overengineerd FF chassis.  i like simpel chassis B).  and offcourse the older sedan bodys. 

  • Like 5
Posted

i Found a team C nissan  primera calsonic body. I just had to buy it. 
Since i don't have a tamiya FF chassis it will probably end up on my TT02.  Which i drive very often lately.  I used to race in different high end classes. (touring car stock 13,5 (xray T4), Formula 1 (xray x1 2021) , fronti (mugen mtc2 fwd)), but i think that modern touringcar classes are over the top these days. ( or i am getting to old for this  haha)

  • Like 2
  • Haha 2
Posted

Well what a read this was. Thank you!

I have had a genuine Tamiya Mondeo shell for years, I think my friend and I bought the last 2 in the UK at the time and we got them from a little model shop on the South Coast, she eventually sold hers so it could be used to make replica bodies to a shop in Chesterfield I think it was. At the time I had a MK1 Mondeo Saloon road car which I used to lavish way too much money on so I just painted the car and had it looking like my road car. The shell then just sat in it's box for the last 10-12 years until I found it in the loft on my TB01 chassis. The TB01 is now sat with the correct Focus re-pop shell on it so I found a cheap fixer upper FF01 chassis on Flea Bay for it. I then thought I best get to stickering it up (I hate it with a passion). Chassis should arrive by the end of the week but here is the shell. 

 

20221228_154128.jpg

20230228_073348.jpg

  • Like 4
  • 5 months later...
Posted

I haven’t done anything FF-01 related for a long time. But reserved something special for the calm days. The (maybe) last build will be the first FF-01 released in 1993:

img-9019j2cp7.jpg

For me it will also be a very special build, as I never build a FF-01 from the box:

img-9020rjd98.jpg

:wub:

  • Like 8
Posted

Lets begin!

As it is the tradition, I start with the nice wheels:

img-9021etftd.jpg

 

The tires get inserts to reduce the stress for the rubber on the shelf:

img-9022ptc16.jpg

 

Unfortunately, these tires or wheels do not get any stickers:

img-90230gc3r.jpg

 

On to the manual build. A setup information sheet was added to make the owner aware of how the position of the rear hubs influences the handling:

img-9024jxe95.jpg

 

Then it starts conventional with the front gear housing and shocktower:

img-90250fep2.jpg

 

Love the blister package:

img-9026dldur.jpg

 

The new parts are all so shiny:

img-902789dqt.jpg

img-9028zfdv7.jpg

 

Balldifferential:

img-9029svdpo.jpg

img-9030f9do9.jpg

 

Closing the gearbox/front section:

img-9031soe14.jpg

img-9033iyijf.jpg

img-9034reeqz.jpg

 

 

  • Like 7
Posted

Finishing the front section. First inserting the gears and closing the gearbox:

img-9036pldr0.jpg

img-9037ukezb.jpg

 

Then completing the suspension with hubs and axles:

img-9038v2d4m.jpg

img-9039yhcwk.jpg

img-9040mkew6.jpg

 

Now on to the rear, that is much simpler:

img-9041u3exr.jpg

img-90425ne5j.jpg

img-90436fihu.jpg

 

img-9044rnf2j.jpg

 

Shock build:

img-9045s2fh9.jpg

img-9046esegm.jpg

img-9047gei70.jpg

img-9049pudwh.jpg

 

  • Like 5
Posted
On 8/2/2023 at 10:07 PM, wtcc5 said:

A setup information sheet was added to make the owner aware of how the position of the rear hubs influences the handling:

I’ve never seen that sheet before. I can just about make out what it says from the image, but any chance you could do me a good scan of it? PM me if you can. Here’s a pic of my last ff01 project as well - love the FF01!

IMG_3977.jpeg

  • Like 5
Posted

@futureworks: That is a very nice specimen :wub:

@Carmine A: ... and I thought you got yourself one already... :P

 

Back to my build. Time for the motor to go into the front section:

img-9050hxdpk.jpg

img-9051qafrw.jpg

 

The next chapter features the tub and the installation of the servo:

img-905205el3.jpg

img-9053e4coa.jpg

img-9054ekfrr.jpg

img-90569jcmc.jpg

 

In this case I only install a vintage servo and no esc.

 

Before all units get connected, the steering rack needs to be build:

img-9057y3i0j.jpg

img-9058tfdnt.jpg

 

  • Like 2
Posted

Chassis completion today :)

 

Steering rack added to the tub chassis:

img-9059nqi23.jpg

 

Front section attached:

img-9061nhiek.jpg

img-90601kfro.jpg

 

Rear section, too:

img-9062iqewa.jpg

img_90631cc67.jpeg

 

Tires added:

img-9064wtc0i.jpg

 

And body posts:

img-9065aoivg.jpg

 

There it is :wub:

img-9066dxfse.jpg

 

 

  • Like 11
  • 2 months later...
Posted

Time to resurrect another FF thread!! Purely for personal insanity! 😜 

I've decided I want a FF-01 enough, to go full crazy stupid! 5 years ago, I built my M-05... COMPLETELY piecemeal!! 😮 But it worked, and still performs great... 

But of course, FF and M are two completely different animals. But WHY NOT? Piecemeal a FF-01!?  @wtcc5 you gave me this insane bug... and I thank you, sir! I don't think I can do THIS alone though. First question, since I realize you have tinkered with many... what's the dogbone length? I'm sure most FF-01 metal parts aren't available anymore.  Oh, and do any gear diffs fit?

There will be Blue aluminininium... but  3Racing and Yeah Racing (I'm really that poor! 😞)

I downloaded a manual, all I need to start is the A, B, C, D, and E trees. Everything else looks universal, or easily aftermarket replaced.  .... unless someone is willing to give up a beater FF-01 chassis? But I'm not pushing that issue.... 

Bearings are easy, hardware, like everything I do, will be Hex Head. I've stocked up on PLENTY of that.  Shocks, Chinesium... Same with wheels and tyres. This won't have any original collector value, just a fun ride, that I missed out on in the 90's, when I was sled pulling Clods.

Body... Team Blue Groove, unless the Royal Mail stops charging a 200% premium to ship to the western US. 

When all is said and done, I'm sure it will cost more than buying a kit. (Piecemeal M-05 cost $285 total!! But not all at once) But in bite size chunks, this will be possible. It's purely a passion driven project, nothing to do with overall value. (Which will be completely unrealistic!!) 😮

Hopefully, I can save enough to at least get the ball rolling...

  • Like 1
Posted
25 minutes ago, wtcc5 said:

@Carmine A: Great! Looking forward to see your build. Still, I would go for a used chassis if possible and then spent all the money on upgrades if possible.

I agree with you......

But in 8 months, I haven't found a single used FF-01 chassis in the US. At least without being able to check every newspaper and yard sale in the country  😞  Getting a used chassis to start from, for me and my budget, might require a miracle. 

Posted

.... You're RIGHT! 😮

Did part tree shopping. A tree, $36.00. B tree, $29.00. C tree, $45.00! D tree, $39.00...... And I forgot the tub is separate..... $90.00 - $130.00!!!! 😭😭😭😭😭 

I did find an A parts bag for $9.95, and B bag for $7.95... but it looks mostly like PLASTIC bushings! 

I could buy a very used FF-01 with a cracked Mondeo body.... for $500.00!!!!! 

I'm really going to have to hope that someone doesn't want a beater chassis...

  • 4 months later...
Posted

FF-01 is back on my R/C menu :lol:

I am working on the Idemitsu Civic body and have another project in the pipeline:

IMG-2231.jpg
 

A Peugeot 406ST body with wheels and tires arrived together with another Tom‘s Exiv body set.

The Former was released 1998 on the TL-01 chassis. I never understood why Tamiya chose the TL-01 over the FF-01 for this fwd car.

To right this wrong, I will add this body on a FF-01 chassis to my fwd collection. As there is no yellow body color in the FF-01 collection so far, this will be a beautiful addition :wub:

  • Like 7
Posted

While working on the Idemitsu Civic, I saw, that I don't have enough of the colors needed, at home. So this "project" is at a standstill for now. :rolleyes:

 

IMG-2283.jpg

I don't want to be bored on my free time, so I started the Peugeot 406 build. I have one fine chassis already cleaned and rebuild. It was stored in a box with the rear axles "stolen" for another car. While searching for another set of axles (wasn't lucky), I went through all of my FF-01 stuff and found more Hop-Ups than expected:

IMG-2290.jpg

That just gave more motivation to start right away ^_^

 

Tradition:

IMG-2292.jpg

IMG-2293.jpg

IMG-2294.jpg

 

Weight saving and friction reduction in the gearbox:

IMG-2295.jpg

 

A bit out of the normal build order, I fiddled with the dampers next.

IMG-2297.jpg

I have to be honest, the light pale pink is an awful color for Hop-Up damper housing. And having these, just shows, that I tried to avoid this color. This time, I didn't want to spent another 45€ for TRF414M2 damper cylinder and decided for a mix. I have lightly scratched cylinder caps in grey. The mix with the pink still looked awful.I had no choice, but to paint the damper cylinder. After several coats of primer, I used TS-17 silver:

IMG-2298.jpg

For the front damper I also painted the blue hard white Tamiya spring. Then those sat to dry for several hours.

 

In the meantime, I continued with the build. A good friend always gets Anti-Wear grease from me. Some weeks ago, he surprised me with a used, but good condition black Sports Tuned motor. It got new cables first:

IMG-2299.jpg

 

Then, I switched to the front suspension. I removed the shock tower... :

IMG-2300.jpg

 

... and replaced the camber links:

IMG-2301.jpg

 

The front suspension was upgraded with aluminum C-hubs, lightweight hub screws, ball bearings and pins:

IMG-2302.jpg

IMG-2303.jpg

 

 

  • Like 7
Posted

Light pink is certainly awful for a shirt :D but for dampers I like it! It's got the "retro hop-up" looks.

But I must ask... which paint did you use on the springs? I have attempted to paint springs twice; once with PS and no primer (peeled off under my nails) and once with Tamiya enamel and still no primer (paint never dried even after 6 months...no clue why).

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted

@Pylon80: The perfect path would be to remove the color from the springs and then use Tamiya Surface Primer followed by their TS-color. That’s how make it with arb wire.

The color used by Tamiya for springs isn’t easy removable. So I just sprayed  several coats of TS color after roughing the surface with 3000 sandpaper and then washing the springs.

 

Motor and heat sink installation :wub:

IMG-2304.jpg

IMG-2305.jpg

IMG-2306.jpg

 

Now onto the rear. The camber links were exchanged also. I installed brass ballstuds for dampers and links. For the style, the black hubs were replaced with blue versions. Unfortunately I ran out of 1150 ball bearings, so the kit standard plastic rings will stay some more days. The rear axles were nowhere to be found. From a build, I had  50823 wheel axles left. I cut the outdrive portion off with a grinder and was left with the standard FF-01 rear wheel axle (I think this is how I will upcycle these leftover axles in the future) :lol:  For now the pin screws will stay also:

IMG-2309.jpg

IMG-2310.jpg

I dig the blue! Better than I imagined.

 

With the damper cylinder still drying, the chassis upgrade came next. I cheated a bit with the topdeck. What you see is the Yeah Racing version I used on my runner before. I removed the TRF stickers and replaced them with the Tamiya graphic. The Tamiya topdeck stays in the box:

IMG-2311.jpg

 

The installation differs a bit from the TA-02, so TC had to provide the original manual:

IMG-2312.jpg

IMG-2313.jpg

IMG-2314.jpg

 

Before adding front and rear FF-01 units, the damper have to be installed. This is the result of my styling effort:

IMG-2307.jpg

IMG-2308.jpg

 

Again I was short on parts. For now I had to install the dampers without oil and bladders:

IMG-2317.jpg

IMG-2318.jpg

 

 

  • Like 4
  • Thanks 1
Posted
5 hours ago, wtcc5 said:

...
The rear axles were nowhere to be found. From a build, I had  50823 wheel axles left. I cut the outdrive portion off with a grinder and was left with the standard FF-01 rear wheel axle (I think this is how I will upcycle these leftover axles in the future) :lol: 
...

I used for my FF01 the out drives with p/n 54183. Are there any differences compared with the original ones (p/n 9805468) respectively p/n 9805502?

And otherwise, as always, great work! :D

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

  • Recent Status Updates

×
×
  • Create New...