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wtcc5

wtcc5's FF-01 addiction

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Sooo... should I feel honored 🤔

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From my pictures folder:

image7jkq5.jpeg

imageoekdb.jpeg

I should ask to get something for free 🤣

 

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That undoubtedly Deserves a hearty THANK YOU!!! 👍👍😊 

As well put as it was, I hope that People in the future, don't see your Caveat - "Some words before I start"  as a statement assuming that ALL Asian copies, replicas, knockoffs, reproductions are all BAD in quality... You WERE quite clear about it, just reiterating it - because occasionally, some People will do their OWN reading between the lines when they read ANYTHING....  TRUST ME! I know. 😞 

You definitely managed something I can't seem to do, photograph Clear Lexan with enough detail to show the point you're trying to make!! 😜  What you were able to show was that the Dimensions and PERTINENT details on either Body were quite good.

Yeah, I'm a bit Old, my eyesight isn't what it used to be 👀 - but the only obvious differences I found, was in the Back of both Bodies. The L&L was decidedly more "muddied" in the Body Lines, where Tamiya was more crisp.  The same is true for the Front, but it's a little less obvious. 

The Decals have some clear differences, mainly because of different processes. MCI, and likely L&L, uses a Printer of some sort. It gives satisfactory results, but as you mentioned, requires a post treatment, to safeguard the Prints... 

Tamiya, with few exceptions, uses a Silk Screening process for its Decal Sheets. [From information I got from my Friend, Matteo Meier, after his trip to Japan, and a Tour of the Tamiya Factory] 

Silk Screening gives very Crisp results, repeatable 1000's of times. The Equipment TO do Silk Screening - is likely out of reach of MCI, L&L, and several other small, independent Companies making reproduction Decals...

But UNLESS you're entering your Model in a Concours Competition.... the differences are quite minimal. And nowadays, it could be your ONLY option! 

Now it's true that for SOME Companies making Reproduction Bodies and Decals - the examples can be QUITE DISMAL... 😖👎👎 And I've seen some listed for the SAME Price as L&L!! 

Then there's Kamtec, a possible third option! VERY inexpensive, very durable. They're not exact Reproductions of anything...

But then, unlike some other Companies - Kamtec doesn't CLAIM that they are!! If you've got a Precious, expensive or irreplaceable Body, and want to go out "racing" badly with your Friends, THESE are certainly worthwhile options!! 😁

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@wtcc5 WHY NOT!!?? 😁

My Friend Matteo gets compensation for the use of his Videos and images, that RCMart, Tamico and Aliexpress (to a lesser extent) uses in their Product Listings. 😁

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Thanks for your advise!

 

590d0fbc-c5fc-4dd2-9qskr4.jpeg

I finished the L&L body with MCI decals yesterday and I am very pleased with the result. Only the color difference to the original annoys me a little bit... For a runner it looks brilliant, could be a shelfqueen :D

 

Here a round view of the finished body. I used Tamiya mirrors and wing for the full effect:

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The final weight:

ba685d3a-f0dc-4c18-9amj9s.jpeg

 

And the full runner:

9231b378-2872-4033-8r0jfi.jpeg

b15eebc6-5ff9-4286-8pskuv.jpeg

4859c1f9-ee8e-4130-bzzk6u.jpeg

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ERMAGHERD that looks GOOD!! 💯👍👍🍻 

In some ways I'm glad I'm not a collector. I could tell subtle differences - but they just don't bug me!! 😉  I'm glad there are Repro options. I don't ever BASH my Cars, but it's great to know that less expensive, sometimes more durable options are out there! 

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Show off time :D

The upper row are four FF-01 and one KR-MF; all FWDs :lol:

6d86dada-cb26-46c5-bmjj1j.jpeg

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One of the members here sold another FF-01 gem:

523982ec-8194-49df-a3hkdg.jpeg

This gives the Calsonic Nissan Primera build the final touch 😊

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Time to post some stuff again. I am still a little angry with the moderators here ...

 

@Quincy again supplied me with a rare tuning part. This time he got a used 53219 Aluminium Pressure Plate Set for me :wub:

3c94c154-23c9-4601-bstjmq.jpeg

The previous owner unfortunately glued not only the outdrives, but also the pressure plate cap :( I hoped cooking the whole diff would loosen up the glue, but it didn't. Luckily backing at 200°C did.

116b1b46-5e5b-4fc2-blykx2.jpeg

Good, that my wife wasn't at home :D

dfe92379-0e7f-4b20-9xkjve.jpeg

I cleaned all parts with white spirit. The gear, balls and diff plates directly went in the bin. The previous owner couldn't service the diff once he glued it together, so there was no hope or logic to save these parts. The precious alumium parts became shiny again and were unharmed. I paired them with new diff parts...

98d3b22f-d17e-427d-amajja.jpeg

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... just to hide them in my Castrol Primera shelfqueen :huh: Humans are crazy :lol:

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The first ten centimeters of this chassis are so expensive.

60c834c6-f43f-41c6-9zpk72.jpeg

 

So much for tuning. @Quincy and I enjoyed the last warm day for a last schoolyard "race". Our track design skills got a lot better this year. The last chalktrack became really good. Using a lot of area and combining smooth and technical corners.

d45a5a7d-bc07-45be-8e6kgd.jpeg

The FF-01 again ran great. The 20€ preglued tire sets we used were less grippy than the Tamiya B-compounds, but still good and caused a lot of fun.

6e25d607-2367-42d7-bf8j9s.jpeg

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This time my diff outdrives failed and forced a longer repair break. Our mistake is maybe that we didn't glue the outdrives into the pressure plates. Well, using djc could also help to reduce wear a lot. If @Quincy and I continue to run these awesome chassis next year, then I will build a solution for dcj.

 

Until then we take a little FF-01 break. We really lived through a FF-01-fever this year with @Quincy aquiring and building 8 (!) and me 5 chassis. And the love is still great. Just rebuilding my TRFF-01 runner after our driving is so much fun. For the cold season indoor racing it would be too sad to use these cars. Our nearest club started a class with Carten M210 chassis and we bought into the series. My first M-chassis experience ^_^

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On 10/5/2020 at 12:00 PM, wtcc5 said:

Time to post some stuff again. I am still a little angry with the moderators here ...

 

@Quincy again supplied me with a rare tuning part. This time he got a used 53219 Aluminium Pressure Plate Set for me :wub:

3c94c154-23c9-4601-bstjmq.jpeg

The previous owner unfortunately glued not only the outdrives, but also the pressure plate cap :( I hoped cooking the whole diff would loosen up the glue, but it didn't. Luckily backing at 200°C did.

116b1b46-5e5b-4fc2-blykx2.jpeg

Good, that my wife wasn't at home :D

dfe92379-0e7f-4b20-9xkjve.jpeg

I cleaned all parts with white spirit. The gear, balls and diff plates directly went in the bin. The previous owner couldn't service the diff once he glued it together, so there was no hope or logic to save these parts. The precious alumium parts became shiny again and were unharmed. I paired them with new diff parts...

98d3b22f-d17e-427d-amajja.jpeg

d10e4c92-4b2f-404a-8fxj03.jpeg

... just to hide them in my Castrol Primera shelfqueen :huh: Humans are crazy :lol:

b3f1dde2-e000-432f-8utjx1.jpeg

50889a3c-5dd0-41ff-bltk4g.jpeg

The first ten centimeters of this chassis are so expensive.

60c834c6-f43f-41c6-9zpk72.jpeg

 

So much for tuning. @Quincy and I enjoyed the last warm day for a last schoolyard "race". Our track design skills got a lot better this year. The last chalktrack became really good. Using a lot of area and combining smooth and technical corners.

d45a5a7d-bc07-45be-8e6kgd.jpeg

The FF-01 again ran great. The 20€ preglued tire sets we used were less grippy than the Tamiya B-compounds, but still good and caused a lot of fun.

6e25d607-2367-42d7-bf8j9s.jpeg

792ab489-7025-4173-8tijid.jpeg

This time my diff outdrives failed and forced a longer repair break. Our mistake is maybe that we didn't glue the outdrives into the pressure plates. Well, using djc could also help to reduce wear a lot. If @Quincy and I continue to run these awesome chassis next year, then I will build a solution for dcj.

 

Until then we take a little FF-01 break. We really lived through a FF-01-fever this year with @Quincy aquiring and building 8 (!) and me 5 chassis. And the love is still great. Just rebuilding my TRFF-01 runner after our driving is so much fun. For the cold season indoor racing it would be too sad to use these cars. Our nearest club started a class with Carten M210 chassis and we bought into the series. My first M-chassis experience ^_^

Great fun again with the FF01, love your fun races with @Quincy Kevin!

The Carten M210 shall be great, but 4WD Mini driving is not really Mini (for me), but more of small touring car race.:D But for sure you will have fun!

Kind regards and great finding you back here!

 

Kind regards,

Matthias

 

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Did I mention already that I don't like this pandemic?

It takes away all my spare time and also causes a lot of extra work. I find nearly no time to do anything R/C related (still lucky to have work).

I had half a day of running the Carten, that's it :( The Carten ran great! It is a handful to build and I won't recommend it, but it is fast and drives like a good 1/10 chassis. That was already 4 weeks ago. Nothing to do since then, because no time.

Then saturday evening I found a jewel on Ebay classified ads:

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Yes! Another Primera ^_^ Undriven, just build.

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The only downer is (again) a bad paintjob. The previous owner had a Nissan Primera himself in this specific color. Nothing wrong here, but of course the used color is not for Lexan and even though they used the window mask stickers, the color was sprayed on the outside of the body... Oh boy :wacko:

The prize was more than fair and as you can see the full sticker set is there plus a totally rare Carson (works together with Tamiya Germany since decades) decal sheet to make a 1995 German STW livery for this body :wub::

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I am tempted to do this, because the quality of the decals is very very close to Tamiya (much better than MCI for example). Even better would be to find another Primera body xD

 

Oh well, I ordered a lot of paintkiller and will try to remove the old color. Pray, that the Lexan underneath stays clear. Then my first restored Castrol Nissan Primera will become a runner body and this will move to the full option FF-01 chassis.

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I found time to continue with the Primera.

The body is a mess right now. The paint layer is thick! Below the upper layer, which is not so hard to remove, is another thin layer, that needs a lot of soaking time to react with the paint remover... This will take some more days and I am not looking forward to continue this work.

 

Luckily the chassis is exactly the opposite. Always the same procedure, but this time it took a lot less effort, because the car never saw a track or street and was build very good. The previous owner took time to remove the gate points from all parts and didn't let the chassis "rot" in a dirty location. I basically just removed dust and old grease. The goal is to have a "dry" build chassis for the shelf.

Same procedure as everytime: Cleaning, checking and reassembling...

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All parts are very very shiny, maybe the best FF-01 chassis I have.

 

The wheels will get a white inner dish and then will go on to the other (full-tuning) Castrol Primera.

 

This is the chassis at the moment:

b4498b62-b06f-4f51-bt3j4j.jpeg

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Today chassis and wheels part ways.

In the beginning of this thread, I restored an old Opel Vectra body and wheels.

d6f36593-04d3-4bb3-86zkbj.jpeg

 

These now were married with this chassis:

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I like the look very much:

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a52be118-0908-4670-862j0g.jpeg

 

 

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Shortly after I continued with adding the refurbished blue heat sink to the Jaccs Honda Accord runner. I found a good service and got the heat sink anodized. The outcome is very nice:

e2c19f5a-26bb-469c-asnjul.jpeg

 

Here some pictures of the installation:

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I nearly forgot how good this car looks:

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9aa96610-2900-44ed-bzhks1.jpeg 

It will stay some days in the living room to have my admiration :D

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After working on the FF-01 today, I couldn’t resist to put all my six chassis next to each other. It was a good year for my addiction. I had a lot of luck, especially getting most of the Primera bodies and parts for a very good price. While we are talking about it, I have to correct an earlier statement regarding the Castrol Primera rims: I thought these were the same as the Isuzu Myu, but they are not. With my latest purchase came the original wheel set. Tamiya made a special design for the 58147 :o Just slightly different.

I made some pictures for the „archive“:

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9e9afe34-df4b-474d-9lkkj4.jpeg

 

The one chassis without body is for the original Jaccs Honda Accord body set I have. I just haven’t had the guts to finish it...

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Enjoyed reading your thread. You cars are excellent as well as your approach in building/maintaining them. 
 

I have never owned a front wheel drive RC and now I want one for sure. Historically, a classic sport car has a rear wheel drive. We all know the reasons such as weight distribution, rear axle load at acceleration, layout design, etc. However, nowadays we have crazy fast FWD cars at world time attack which are more than competitive to rwd cars. So my question is, do you think a FWD RC car can be/or faster/equal to a RWD RC at a track? 

Edited by fwdjump

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Allow me one last post for today :P

This time it is about good news for us who run their FF-01 frequently:

 

1. A fitting LiPo for our vintage cars:

8705b491-05fa-44dc-av8ju6.jpeg
 

There were already Sub-C style LiPos, but these always had some oversize in one dimension and so never really fit into our vintage chassis. Finally Corally brought the shown battery that fits like a glove. It is also fair priced and has a good capacity.

6855f63c-11bd-4142-aaijgh.jpeg
 

0649e330-3025-499d-9xtjkc.jpeg
 

2. An important upgrade that will greatly reduce wear on the outdrives and diff-pressure-plates (caused by the strong shattering of the cardans; see damage report of Quincy and me earlier). The new doublejointcardan for the TC-01 (42372) comes as 39mm version and will fit lengthwise in our FF-01 drivetrain.

5d22dfe6-8ad7-45b3-8ugki1.jpeg
 

I already tried to fit the existing Tamiyas DJCs and they were either too short (30-33mm) or too long (42-46mm). The new 39mm version will be just perfect.

You will need a 5mm sleeve for the outer bearing and another 3D-printed sleeve to put inside the hub with the bearing that comes with the DJC set. I will keep you updated ;)

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15 minutes ago, fwdjump said:

Enjoyed reading your thread. You cars are excellent as well as your approach in building/maintaining them. 
 

I have never owned a front wheel drive RC and now I want one for sure. Historically, a classic sport car has a rear wheel drive. We all know the reasons such as weight distribution, rear axle load at acceleration, layout design, etc. However, nowadays we have crazy fast FWD cars at world time attack which are more than competitive to rwd cars. So my question is, do you think a FWD RC car can be/or faster/equal to a FWD RC at a track? 

I cannot predict the future, but currently a 4wd touring car can much better put the power down. Our electric motors have so much torque, that always out of the corner the fwd loses (traction wise) time. On high grip carpet this problem is just marginal. Outdoors this problem is greater.

 

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11 minutes ago, wtcc5 said:

I cannot predict the future, but currently a 4wd touring car can much better put the power down. Our electric motors have so much torque, that always out of the corner the fwd loses (traction wise) time. On high grip carpet this problem is just marginal. Outdoors this problem is greater.

 

Oh, made a typo. The question was if fwd compatible to rwd ) 

For sure 4wd is the fastest 😉

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Aah, ok. RWD like we have it now is vastly slower, because they have no front brakes and just a little bit more traction than FWD. But mostly the non existing brake kills this layout for all motors stronger than 23-25t, even on high grip (if not foam tires of course).

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Preparation of the original wheels:

The previous owner already had made them silver. So I just needed to paint the inner dish white.

6a69c684-39a7-41e7-bqak1q.jpeg

f3a7f8f8-9eb4-4993-8d6kmq.jpeg

 

Highlighting the inner dish screws:

9db8229f-81d8-4990-8yukx9.jpeg

 

Placing the decals:

eefe4b88-6c92-4168-ak2j6z.jpeg

6842feaf-865f-4091-94rksw.jpeg

 

Comparison to the similar Isuzu Myu wheels:

25d30bf3-c0dd-49fc-a7akhm.jpeg

Having both wheels side-by-side lets me doubt my judgement :blink: How come I thought these were the same. The difference in the dish bulge is clearly the opposite. Other characteristics, too. Tamiya also added the item number 58147 to the inside of every second wheel. I really love this aspect, having the correct wheeldesign with every body. Not like Tamiya did with the TS050...

 

More Primera pictures :D

c051321d-9b28-4e82-9k8k20.jpeg

1a314d29-d793-48da-9ogk9s.jpeg

1da5b492-ac0b-4445-bw8jev.jpeg

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