Tamiya TT02 Lancia Delta Integrale

[Ladders 45]

Hello! After recently completing a CC01 Defender, I fancied something that would handle better on tarmac, as well as a bit of off-road.

I also liked the idea of having a chassis that I could upgrade as I went along, and there looked to be loads of options for the TT02.

I’m also a big fan of the Integrale!

And so after a few days wait. 

 

As I’m sure there have been loads of TT02 builds, I’ll spare you the details!

 

 

The only thing I couldn’t resist was to detail the brake discs, not that you can see them that well through the wheels.

And so after roughly a day of building.

 

After airbrushing my Defenders body, I thought I’d use the proper stuff and use Tamiya polycarbonate paint this time. Not sure how much easier it was though as it really gave off fumes, and seems to really attract dust between coats.

 

When I’d applied 3 or 4 white coats, I applied a few layers of smoke for the windows.

Id also read from this forum about using washing up liquid to apply the stickers, and a hairdryer to help mould the stickers and fix into position. This worked way better than just sticking them on as I had with the defender. But what a lot of stickers! I think it took half a day to get this far!

 

 

Used some satin car paint on the grill after masking.

And after a day of stickering!

 

Really happy with how it turned out, although a few little mistakes with the stickers.

Took her down the park for a test drive and handled well on Tarmac, but she seemed to really struggle on grass! But handled a lot better than the defender that wanted to topple over on every turn.

 

[Ladders 45]

A few days later I took her for a run at my parents, and had a few bashes. Was very disappointed that on the first bump the paint had practically fell off the body shell!

[Ladders 45]

I’ll probably try scrubbing as much paint off the inside and respraying with Vallejo paint again as I did with the defender. Can’t understand why it’s come off so easily as I’d roughed the inside up with scotch pad, and then washed with washing up liquid?

Anyway, first mod, got rid of the aweful original shocks in exchange for the CVA oil shocks.

 

I also ‘needed’ these for my first set of mods!

 

[Ladders 45]

Inspired by watching this YouTube video by Rob Brennan, I decided I’d try some chassis mods to improve the off-road performance of my Lancia, and see if I can get it running better on grass. At the moment these are all ‘free’ mods, but I may spend money on more mods if I think I need them in the future.

Most of these mods are probably already well known! But I’d be interested in what other people have done and if there’s any things I can do to improve things.

First off the chassis with standard ‘High’ chassis setting.

The biggest improvement was to cut these parts off the rear hubs.

 

 

And then cutting these sections from the wishbones.

 

Which, combined with the new shocks, which you need to let the wishbones drop lower, seemed to make a big difference. Standard ride height right, improved ride height left.
 

[Ladders 45]

Next to work on the fronts.

This involves removing this section of plastic from the inside of the front wishbone below, and chamfering the top washer of the hub (forgot to take a picture of this).

 

This improved things a little, but not a lot. You can see it’s opened a slight gap above this airbrush cup where it was touching before.

 

And overall ride height improvement below.

[Ladders 45]

What I wasn’t happy with, were these parts of the suspension that really protrude down and ruin the ground clearance next to the front wheels and must really get in the way.

So decided they must go! So cut the hubs off as marked here.

And replaced with a washer.

 

Which now means the clearance is improved next to the front wheel, as on the right here.

 

[Ladders 45]

So back to improving the front ride height.

What I had noticed is the steering arms limited how far the front wishbones dropped, so I tried putting a chamfer on the end.

 

This didn’t make an aweful lot of difference, until I had the idea to add a spacer underneath the end between the arm and the hub arm, bit hard to see here below?

 

But made a big difference with all the other mods made before. New lower ride height on the left.

 

And new ride height overall below. Really need to measure the difference really!

[Ladders 45]

 

[Superluminal 3750]

Thats a massive difference! Does it cause any issues with the dog bones running out of alignment?

Also, surprised about the paint coming off like that - assumed it wss much more flexible

[Ladders 45]

On full extension the dog bones do seem to catch a bit, but I think as the car will settle a bit as it’s running it should be ok. I think the CV joints will be on the list one day just incase though. Think they will help incase I decided increase the steering angle too.

Yes I must have done something wrong with the paint! Just not sure what?

[Carmine A 2046]

Rob Brennan would be thrilled that his ideas are being used here. Rob and I have been Friends for many years! Along with Mark Bryan, the 3 of us are constantly trying to reengineer Tamiya Vehicles!! 😉 

..... Get the Aluminium Bridge and Steering Bellcrank Kit. You will notice a great improvement! 

As far as Paint is concerned, Tamiya PS- Paints always work. NEVER use TS- or AS- Paints. They won't etch into the Lexan.

[ruebiracer 1043]

5 hours ago, Ladders said:

On full extension the dog bones do seem to catch a bit, but I think as the car will settle a bit as it’s running it should be ok. I think the CV joints will be on the list one day just incase though. Think they will help incase I decided increase the steering angle too.

Yes I must have done something wrong with the paint! Just not sure what?

From your story I got you airbrushed the body? What paint did you use? I had some problems on Lexan with the createx wicked series, too. You are using Vallejo as a second color manufacturer? Did you get better results? For a one tone paint job and Rally use, Tamiya PS-1 is a safe way for sure. With airbrush I´m testing the new Proline colors at the moment, as my friends all use them nowadays. But for me, flaking is a no go. So this has to be proved first with some test bodies in RC races.... 

[Carmine A 2046]

Proline is also the "chic" paints among my RC Crawler Group.... It looks pretty good, but doesn't seem all that durable. But then my experience has been with 7+lb Trucks. When they roll down a Hill, they really beat up a Body. 😖

I'd advise staying away from Pactra. They USED to be good, but they changed their formula several years ago, and it's not durable at all. 

I've been painting Lexan Bodies for over 30 years. Tamiya PS Paints have never failed me. Just my 2¢. 😉

[Ladders 45]

7 hours ago, Carmine A said:

Rob Brennan would be thrilled that his ideas are being used here. Rob and I have been Friends for many years! Along with Mark Bryan, the 3 of us are constantly trying to reengineer Tamiya Vehicles!! 😉 

..... Get the Aluminium Bridge and Steering Bellcrank Kit. You will notice a great improvement! 

As far as Paint is concerned, Tamiya PS- Paints always work. NEVER use TS- or AS- Paints. They won't etch into the Lexan.

Yes I’ve been watching Rob and Marks vids over the last few months. Some great tips and I’ve enjoyed watching their unboxings.

Ok, steering next! Of all the different brands, are any better than the others?

Im going to check the paint I bought, be a bit annoying if it isn’t Lexan paint. 

[Ladders 45]

3 hours ago, ruebiracer said:

From your story I got you airbrushed the body? What paint did you use? I had some problems on Lexan with the createx wicked series, too. You are using Vallejo as a second color manufacturer? Did you get better results? For a one tone paint job and Rally use, Tamiya PS-1 is a safe way for sure. With airbrush I´m testing the new Proline colors at the moment, as my friends all use them nowadays. But for me, flaking is a no go. So this has to be proved first with some test bodies in RC races.... 

Hi! I used the Vallejo paint on the Defender I recently painted, Tamiya on this build. I used Vallejo as I wanted a specific colour match, but I think I will just use an Airbrush specific Lexan paint for my next build!

[Carmine A 2046]

17 minutes ago, Ladders said:

Yes I’ve been watching Rob and Marks vids over the last few months. Some great tips and I’ve enjoyed watching their unboxings.

Ok, steering next! Of all the different brands, are any better than the others?

I'm going to check the paint I bought, be a bit annoying if it isn’t Lexan paint. 

The Paint will say "for Polycarbonate" somewhere on the Label.

Steering - Tamiya is about the best, but very expensive. And you have to buy it in separate pieces...

Yeah Racing is what all 3 of us have used, with good results! It's a complete Kit, all pieces, Bearings and Hardware - for about HALF of what Tamiya charges.

Mark has tried the GPM Steering Kit. In his own word - *******! I've known Mark for over 8 years. I trust his knowledge of Tamiya! 😉

There are a few others, but the YR set is the best price/value.

[Ladders 45]

Thanks, I’ll have a look at the Yeah Racing Stuff then thanks 

[Ladders 45]

Just a follow up on my paint job - checked and I’d used Tamiya TS paint! 

 

What’s the best way to remove this from Lexan? Might see how much I can remove with the scotch bright pad first. 

[Carmine A 2046]

I've never removed non polycarbonate paint from polycarbonate....

If you want to try something, get 91% Isopropyl Alcohol, quite a bit. Soak the Body in it, for at least an hour. (Wiping it on will just evaporate in 30 seconds) 

That usually lifts the Paint off WITHOUT any damage to the Lexan at all. Just rub with a paper towel while soaking, after the first hour...

If that doesn't work, next step is Brake Fluid. That one, soak paper towels in the Brake Fluid, and press them against the inside of the Body, and let sit.

Either way you'll probably have to Scotch Brite the Body afterwards...

Something many People don't understand... The Lexan Body itself IS the Clearcoat on any paint job.

MEANING if you get fine scratches on the inside (EXCEPT for the Windows), after you paint it, you will see NO scratches on the outside!! 😁

Don't believe me - take a scrap piece of Lexan, leave the protective film on, then Scotch Brite the other side... Even hit it lightly with 400 grit or finer Sandpaper.

Then paint it, any color of PS Paint you can spare...

Let dry, peel off the film. See how it looks!! 😊

[Ladders 45]

Thanks. I’ve got brake fluid, so might have a go with scotchbrite then brake fluid on anything that I can’t get off

[Carmine A 2046]

Brake Fluid is a great Paint Remover! Just make sure when you're done, to soak and scrub the Body in a Sink full of warm/hot soapy water. 

ANY residue from the Brake Fluid, even a tiny bit that you can't see, will RUIN your new Paint Job!!! 

If you have Alcohol, any type, wipe the inside of the Body with it 10 minutes before painting. Just as a safe last step. This extra prep should help you do the most durable Paint Job you've ever done!! 😊  Or at least close to best.

No matter what, I'm sure you already know, preparation is nearly 90% of a successful Paint Job. 😉

Can't WAIT to see the results!!!

[Ladders 45]

Thanks

[Dirt-540 68]

Nice post chap, just got me a tt02 and will do the same. Ive already done it to a tt01 and a tt01e and the difference in road holding is brilliant, loads of suspension travel. I always use those Tamiya black CVAs, soft and plush, far better than a lot of those aftermarket aluminium shocks that everybody praises but actually are rubbish.

[Ladders 45]

Thanks! Glad I’m not Missing out with the fancy aliminium ones then

[Carmine A 2046]

18 hours ago, Dirt-540 said:

..... I always use those Tamiya black CVAs, soft and plush, far better than a lot of those aftermarket aluminium shocks that everybody praises but actually are rubbish.

I agree AND disagree... Yes, over 90% of aftermarket Aluminum Shocks out there are compleat RUBBISH. 😖

ONE exception that several of us have found... Yeah Racing! The only thing you'll need to do is replace the YR O-Ring Seals with either Tamiya or Team Associated. 

You'll end up with Shocks nearly as good as Tamiya TRF Shocks - but only 1/3rd the Cost!! 

You'll want to get 65mm Shocks, to go with all that extra Suspension Travel. 😁 I don't think the CVAs, as good as they are, will go much longer than 60mm.