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Superluminal

Quickrun brushless motor - cant remove connectors

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Today has been a terrible day. Im working on a F103GT project which has been cursed from the day I won the auction for it. Literally everything I do to it or parts i order for it turns to crud.

And I hate soldering. Mostly because Im so terrible at it. Today has been mostly spent soldering, resoldering, cutting, soldering again and its all basically been a waste of time. 

The quickrun esc and brushless motor combo i had has 12awg wires on it and i needed to extend them. I imagine using an arc welder would be more suitable, theyre like working with rebar. 

The 3 pin connectors i bought seem to be made of a plastic that has a lower melting point than the solder so lots of them were wasted.

After about four hours i had assembled something approaching a way of connecting the esc to the motor.

But no.

The connectors on the motor point outwards so the wires when connected clash with wheel and are too high for the body to sit on the chassis.

So i need to reverse them so they face the other way towards the front of the motor. So i tried melting them off with my soldering iron.

Nothing. The solder doesnt melt. No idea how the connectors are held on but it wont melt and after a few minutes of applying the iron to it it just seemed to soften the pcb board they are fixed to. So no doubt ive probably knackered the motor too now.

Is it possible to do this?

 

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I've done what you wanted to one of these motors.  I couldn't use a soldering iron to get the connectors out either.  I ended up drilling them out.  Then I could solder new connectors onto the motor in the orientation I wanted.  The motor works just fine.

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I was thinking of that as a last resort!!!

Thank you - will try that tonight. Glad to here it was ok. What connectors did you fit back in or did you solder on the wires directly?

No idea what they are held in with but it isnt regular solder.

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You could also consider soldiering directly on to the existing connectors with the wires in a reverse orientation if workable. Just tin them with a dollop of solder first.

If you need to be able to unplug the motor put the bullets inline between the motor and speedo.

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I soldered bullet connectors onto the motor - basically just like what it came with, just pointing the other way.

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10 minutes ago, Howards said:

You could also consider soldiering directly on to the existing connectors with the wires in a reverse orientation if workable. Just tin them with a dollop of solder first.

If you need to be able to unplug the motor put the bullets inline between the motor and speedo.

Unfortunately the existing connectors clash with the body shell in their current location. Theres not a great deal of clearance over the motor pod part of the chassis.

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8 minutes ago, Wongataa said:

I soldered bullet connectors onto the motor - basically just like what it came with, just pointing the other way.

Did the type of bullets you get have a pin on the back of them to locate in the hole?

The bullets i have only have a dimple for the wire to sit in.

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Spose I could just fill the dimple with a blob of solder and melt it into the hole

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I had the same with my Xerun motor, then someone gave me the tip to first add more solder to the existing connectors and heat it up.

That did the job for me and I was able to remove the connectors.

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1 hour ago, Wongataa said:

I've done what you wanted to one of these motors.  I couldn't use a soldering iron to get the connectors out either.  I ended up drilling them out.  Then I could solder new connectors onto the motor in the orientation I wanted.  The motor works just fine.

I was going to suggest drilling these out too. If it were my motor design I’d have swaged or crimped the pins in place so they get some mechanical strength, so even if you were to remove all the solder you might find they don’t come out. I looked at a couple of other motors trying to find details of this and rather than solder they have resin potting on the back side, which might support the sewage theory.. 

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I managed to do mine on my Frog build. I used a 120w soldering iron. I also added some flux to the joint to help with the heat transfer. Came off fine.

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Mine soldering iron is 25w.

So are they held on with a high temp solder? What you have done is exactly what i need.

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1 hour ago, Superluminal said:

Mine soldering iron is 25w.

So are they held on with a high temp solder? What you have done is exactly what i need.

It will be an industrial lead free solder. Your 25w iron won't be able to come close to the power required to do that job. So all you will end up doing is soaking heat through the whole board rather than melting the solder. It doesn't help that the bullet connetors are very good heatsinks themselves!

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3 minutes ago, sosidge said:

It will be an industrial lead free solder. Your 25w iron won't be able to come close to the power required to do that job. So all you will end up doing is soaking heat through the whole board rather than melting the solder. It doesn't help that the bullet connetors are very good heatsinks themselves!

Drilling them out looks like the only option then if my maplins special is too puny. Quick look on ebay seems that soldering irons over 100w are serious wedge. Cant really justify that.

 

Also, you have the best username ive ever seen by far! :lol:

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